I have fixed my car up...some tips

bradyelich said:
I used Bosch plugs
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oh no! ive seen nothing but bad luck from anyone using bosch plugs. being a mechanic at ford for 12 years i saw alot. i even had my old tbird suck one into the cylinder while i was doing 80 or so, needless to say it wasnt fun and their "warranty" doesnt exist, they wouldn't even reimburse me the cost of the plug
 
So who makes the plugs for Ford? Ford uses Bosch alternators on the Lincolns. Inquiring minds want to know...:).
 
Rear Wheel Hubs replaced

I replaced the rear wheel hubs on my car. The right side was corroded on and tough to get off, but not as tough as tapered bearings can be. The right side did spin somewhat rougher than the left.
 
I watched Two Guys Garage today and they went thru the modern tune up. They showed how an old O2 sensor worked vs. a new one on the graph. I think I am going to put in 6(3 cats on my Conti) new O2 sensors this summer. I would like to try to set my EGR like BigPip did. Oh, and install my new master cylinder (I did one for a friend and was not hard to do)
 
Wife got code on my car coming home from work (she drives my car and I drive her Windstar...). Threw P0171 - lean bank #1; the side with #1 cylinder. Researched the code. Resolutions found are: clean or replace Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF sensor); vacuum leak downstream of MAF sensor, including intake manifold gaskets - so inspect vacuum lines and hoses (do the smoke test not propane); dirty fuel filter (low probabilty of being the cause); proper fuel pressure - fuel pressure regulator; O2 sensors (low probability being the cause but appear to get tired after 60,000 miles). Check out Scotty Kilmer videos on youtube on how to do stuff.

I erased the code, drove to my curling match and code did not reappear.
 
Last month my driver's door window came unglued from track. I took it apart and saw it was just silicone in there hold window to the track. I tried to fix it, not succcessful so I took it to an autobody shop and had them glue it in with butyl. In the process, door trim panel pins broke and had to order new ones from Ford - body shop did not stock anything that old. Window all fixed.

Now, the tranny is bucking when starting out and you give it a little gas - like it is slipping in first gear. I tried the same in reverse but all normal there. 190,000 miles on it. Now do I fix it or get another car.... am unhappy about this.
 
Well last year I had my tranny looked at and when the mechanic pulled the magnet he said it looked like a Chia Pet. He also said there is a good chance the torque converter is going bad (again.) I think I got a ballpark estimate of around $2,500 USD for the fix. Craigslist in my area, you could sell a 00 Conti for that price or maybe 3k.
So I guess it comes down to how much do we love our cars lol
 
Have you changed the fluid, and if so, how long ago? Also, could the fluid be low or burned?

It might be worth a shot to do a fluid and filter change with Mercron V just to see, unless you know the cause of the problem - especially before trashing the old girl.



bradyelich said:
Last month my driver's door window came unglued from track. I took it apart and saw it was just silicone in there hold window to the track. I tried to fix it, not succcessful so I took it to an autobody shop and had them glue it in with butyl. In the process, door trim panel pins broke and had to order new ones from Ford - body shop did not stock anything that old. Window all fixed.

Now, the tranny is bucking when starting out and you give it a little gas - like it is slipping in first gear. I tried the same in reverse but all normal there. 190,000 miles on it. Now do I fix it or get another car.... am unhappy about this.
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The tranny fluid was changed 90,000 miles ago is still looking fresh, and is up.
I tried reverse and the other gears and they are working, just first gear.

The thing is, about the only thing I have to fix is the tranny and steering box - has new brakes, rad, axles, alternator, water pump, brakes, door panels, door window, rear hubs, one new front hub, blend door actuator, tie rods. Air bags are good shape.

I was thinking I would donate this car to the local museum as their newest Lincoln is a 1973 and this car has so much technology in it and is fairly rare.

I won't sell it unless I fix it - that is the way I am. Therefore, it is just as reasonable for me to just park it at the farm.
 
The car is at Ford for them to do their diagnostics. Will see what they have to say.

FastParts has transaxle for $2077.00 plus $600.00 core, plus $280 for shipping to me. It comes with a new torque converter. I would have to pay $280 to ship back for my core, but that woudl pay for all my shipping.

Ford service manager here usually bills 17 hours at fleet rate $100/hr for a rebuild plus parts.
 
geez, you should just buy my Conti for the price it would take to fix yours up and I have a parts car too. And you'd be upgrading to an 01.;)
 
My buddy, the Ford Service Manager, called me about my car. It turns out I have a broken right front axle, broke off inside the tranny case. I am going ahead with the rebuild with a new torque converter and some new axles. He promised me some substantial price cuts on labour and parts, so hopefully it comes out under $3000.00.

I have been shopping for another car, but I have to buy used anyway, and this way I still have a lincoln and I know what shape it is in - mostly new.

To R&R a new transaxle is 10.5 hours and it is going to be 9 hours for the rebuild.

Who said the tranny's are bad...
 
The tranny fix is $3464.00 plus tax. It is put together, but the Ford mechanic was not happy with the way it was shifting, so putting in a new valve body. The Ford guy kinked my power steering return hose and it burst. They will have to fix that, too.
 
Ford called and the parts are in, car went back yesterday. Hopefully, it will be all fixed by the week end.

P.S. I had used some extreme tape to patch the power steering return line. It is tape that bonds to itself, good for 600 psi, waterproof and insulates. I put one hose clamp over the tape over the hole and I can drive the car without it leaking.
 
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My car is back in one piece. I had to top up the tranny fluid level.The patch Ford mech put on my power steering line drips and my tape patch did not - he should have put on a new line just no accountability - the good enough attitude.

The car drives real nice with the exception of a harsher shift into second gear at half throttle. The tranny will have to spend some time to 'learn' my driving habits.

Hope it is a good repair and lasts.
 
I replaced reman rear hubs with Ford units. I hate reman parts - the previous hubs made noise.

I am replacing right front hub and inner tie rod, it is making noise too. Ford techs are not supposed to be using impact wrench on wheel hubs and not sure how they handled my car during tranny rebuild.

The car is driving well enough with the new tranny, not perfect but the way it was when I bought it just hope it lasts another 200K miles.
 
I replaced the front hubs (the left axle nut was only finger tight), the left inner tie rod (I could reach this with a 1 5/16" flat wrench) and took it back to Ford to install the right inner tie rod as I could not do it (tranny in the way and the inner tie rod socket I borrowed would not fit - need the one with the set screw), and re-do the wheel alignment which they did for free.

They checked for tranny leaks, and found only the power steering line they broke was leaking. I have since added 2.5 liters of Mobil 1 ATF and got the tranny full and now it works like it should - no more flare or harsh 1-2 shift. Would be nice to have had it full when I got it back ....I phoned my service man and left a message thanking him for the free inspection and wheel alignment and told him I fixed my car.

It turns out my tires are all bad after 6 years (Michellin Hydro edge with 90,000 km), but they still have half tread, causing some noise.

Since being in the shop, the car has developed engine oil leaks. I investigated and near as I can tell it is oil pan and will have to drop exhaust and replace oil pan gasket. Ford techs may have took some pan bolts out for various brackets for the tranny R & R.

My car has 296,663 km on it.

The right radiator fan motor is making noise so I sprayed WD-40 into the motor while running hoping to lubricate it.

Have a rattle in the rear end. I will try new set of tires after that I am guessing need new horizontal shocks and or control arm and ball joint assembly.

I used intake cleaner and sprayed out the throttle butterflys while car was running and my son pushed on the gas(drive by wire no cable). I have cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner. The idle has smoothed out since doing this.
 
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I got new tires this morning. Motomaster SE2's on sale at canadian tire for $107 a wheel. The Lincoln smoothness is now back.

Size: 225/60R16 98T
Speed Rating: T
Load Range: SL
UTQG: 580 A B
Mileage Rating: 110000 km
Wheel Width Min: 6.00 in / po
Wheel Width Max: 8.00 in / po
Sidewall Style: BSW
Weight: 26.000 lb

It seems to me all I get is 6 years from a tire just because the rubber gets old. They say the high perf tires flat spot easier. Cheap tires for me from now on.
 
I changed the left front ball joint. This part has lasted for over 300,000km's! The ball joint was removed using my ball joint press, but I installed it with a brass drift and a hammer while the knuckle was in the vise. I also hade to unbolt the lower control arm to remove the knuckle from the strut.
 
I replaced both outer tie rod ends, but I still have slight play. I had installed new inners 20,000km's ago, but have hit 3 or 4 good holes in our rough roads and may have damaged them already.
 
bradyelich I just finished reading your long chronicle and I found it interesting and informative. Thanks for taking the time to continually post about your car and the repairs you make. It was almost as if I was reading a story. I became emotionally involved. During the post about the tranny troubles when you were trying to decide to fix the car or not I was saying out loud "of course you should keep the car! Damn it man, fix it!" :)
 
Thank you for the nice post.

I am still fixing my car, leaking rear air spring right side and left inner tie rod end THEN it should be good for a couple more years. I am a whiz at alternator swaps.....
 
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I hope it's good for longer than a couple more years after all the time and money you've put into it. It should be nearly new by now. I've had my car just a month but I am already emotionally attached to it. I can understand why you prefer to repair yours rather than find another newer car.

I just finished a water pump on my 98 Continental. I thought I was a whiz at alternator swaps too but I over torqued one of the bracket bolts on top of the alternator and snapped it clean off. I should have been using the 1/4" drive but the foot long 3/8" ratchet was in reach and had the right socket already on it. OOps. :)
 
Terrapin88 said:
I hope it's good for longer than a couple more years after all the time and money you've put into it. It should be nearly new by now. I've had my car just a month but I am already emotionally attached to it. I can understand why you prefer to repair yours rather than find another newer car.

I just finished a water pump on my 98 Continental. I thought I was a whiz at alternator swaps too but I over torqued one of the bracket bolts on top of the alternator and snapped it clean off. I should have been using the 1/4" drive but the foot long 3/8" ratchet was in reach and had the right socket already on it. OOps. :)
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Wait until I write my post about replacing the steering rack...on the street.
 
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