I need an upper radiator hose!

charcoalLS

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Part # YW4Z-8B502-AA. The bleeder screw does not open! Whoever did the engine swap in this car before I bought it must of 'screwed' it up.;) I don't need the radiator and all the hoses that come with the 300+ kit from Ford. Is anyone parting out their V6 or has an extra one of these around? Failing that is there anywhere that gives LVC members a discount on parts?
 
Maxx at 5 star ford

800-866-1520 ext 236

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I have had that issue in the past. The problem with salvaging any part of that plastic manifold is that it gets very brittle over time and use, and it ends up failing in multiple places. I had mine break in that area, i fixed it, and then last summer, it burst a split lengthwise, going across the top from left to right, which was not pretty. I was 100 miles from home, but only 10 miles from my brother's place, and I had a new complete assembly in the box for 2 years, waiting to get installed. Everything was ready to break on that manifold. Max sold me mine almost 3 years ago for around $210. It was well worth it with a new set of hoses and thermostat and thermostat housing. Make sure that you have a circular clamp tool to work with those hose clamps, this job is nearly impossible without that tool.
 
Maxx is next day airing it for me for 216 (40 bucks shipping) :rolleyes: I need it though, cant drive the car without it.
 
You don't need to use that bleeder. I didn't when I installed my new engine cuz mine was frozen also. You can just pull off and on the little hose right there to bleed. I also had to replace the upper hose unit on my V6. I got the complete assyembly and the 90 degree hose and the str8 hose and gallon of Gold anti freeze from ford for 265. Dealing with my "guy"
 
I snapped that little tube off that goes to that hose lol. It also happened to me in the Jaguar S type I had before. They say it gets brittle over time. Is the gold anti freeze dex cool? I have a 2000 LS can I just prestone that says 'all makes and models' or do I need the good coolant?
 
I heard that some poeple have tapped threads and put in their own nipples and that has worked... it didn't seem high pressure.
 
I snapped that little tube off that goes to that hose lol. It also happened to me in the Jaguar S type I had before. They say it gets brittle over time. Is the gold anti freeze dex cool? I have a 2000 LS can I just prestone that says 'all makes and models' or do I need the good coolant?

Prestone's fine.

Don't use Dex-Cool.
 
I was a little low and i threw in some prestone premixed 50/50.
 
I heard that some poeple have tapped threads and put in their own nipples and that has worked... it didn't seem high pressure.

I suggested that to my mechanic, but he thought that eventually cracks would start running from the tapped hole and I had to agree. You only need your engine bay covered with coolant once to not want to take any shortcuts there.
 
Ford Gold coolant is Premium coolant NOT Dexcool. I had a freind with an Izuzu that snapped a plastic nipple off a larger pipe doing his alt. I drilled it and tapped it NTP and treaded in a brass nipple and he has been good for 7K so far.
 
Ford Gold coolant is Premium coolant NOT Dexcool. I had a freind with an Izuzu that snapped a plastic nipple off a larger pipe doing his alt. I drilled it and tapped it NTP and treaded in a brass nipple and he has been good for 7K so far.

Yeah, but these parts crack when you look at them wrong.
 
I have been thinking of making a "time saver" coolant hose manifold for the V6. You would just cut out the center plastic manifold slip the new one in and tighten down the 2 supplied large hose clamps. Done.
 
IIRC, there are a couple of hoses that are a real bitch to get to with pliers type tools, that make the real tool a smart option. You will see if you change out the entire upper hose farm on that V6. I use a cheap one that acts with the use of a cable. It has at good 2 feet of remote working actuation so that you never have to put pliers and that type of tool into a remote area, so you position the tool where the clamp is, then cock the clamp open from an accessible area. It also holds the clamps open for you indefinitely by itself. I removed the hose from the manifold that goes to the dccv (I think) as i did not want to mess with that hose, it is really out of the way, but that hose is like bonded to the plastic manifold and nearly broke the thing trying to separate it, with the clamp completely removed. I have no idea how they bonded it, but i learned that i almost ruined an expensive part by trying to get out of doing some extra work.

BTW great price on that thing, considering $40 fast shipping added in. Thanks Max!
 
i have a quick fix for this. it just happened to me this week, it requires a 1/4 inch t fitting 2 tie straps. sealant and a hose clamp
 
trying to uplaod a pic.

IMG_20110126_172625-1.jpg
 
well if thats the same hose. upper radiator
hose.i had to buy mine on ebay for 199 then paid like 35 shipping to hawaii.. ford in hawaii tried to charge me 390.. i replaced my coils and the guy here on base at the workshop broke of the tip of that part. so i was out of luck. i finally got my part in. im going to install it this weekend... but this contraption i put together works well.. i tried just capping of that part but the overflow hose was spitting out fluid. this was the best thing i could make work.. it actually has held up , no leakage for 2 weeks.. i got a 1/4 inch tube.... i cut into where the tube going out was and i put the 1/4 to 1/4 plastic tee snub. then i got zip ties and i used the blue sealant maker. and it works.. any questions on this quick fix. p/m me... by the way im brand new to the site. my name is thiago. im stationed in hawaii and i drive a 2000 ls v6. i just found out about this site this week.. i will be posting here a lot and try searching previous

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...ageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123#ht_1827wt_1167
 
my fix for the upper radiator hose.. no dealer in hawaii had it . and i had to do this to keep my car running
 

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