Immediate help needed!!!

Here's another vote that says the solenoid assembly in your transmission has to be replaced. The harsh reverse engagement is a dead giveaway.

Also, the theory about the key is unsound. The PATS won't shut down a running car. It will only keep you from starting one. You have more serious problems, and they'll be back.
 
Here's another vote that says the solenoid assembly in your transmission has to be replaced. The harsh reverse engagement is a dead giveaway.

Also, the theory about the key is unsound. The PATS won't shut down a running car. It will only keep you from starting one. You have more serious problems, and they'll be back.

i'm not mechanically inclined, but from what i've read,

+1
 
here's another vote that says the solenoid assembly in your transmission has to be replaced. The harsh reverse engagement is a dead giveaway.

Also, the theory about the key is unsound. The pats won't shut down a running car. It will only keep you from starting one. You have more serious problems, and they'll be back.
+ 100
 
I did a search for solenoid pack and came up with a bunch of references to people they need to change it, but I haven't found a thread detailing how to do it....like a how-to tutorial. Any body have a link and know off the top of their head the associated cost for parts?
 
I did a search for solenoid pack and came up with a bunch of references to people they need to change it, but I haven't found a thread detailing how to do it....like a how-to tutorial. Any body have a link and know off the top of their head the associated cost for parts?


I did mine a few years ago. It isn't too bad, but without a lift it will be a bugger! Then there is the issue refilling the trans.

Drop the pan and the solenoid pack is right there. A few bolts and, IIRC, a hard to reach electrical connector and the old one comes out.

Here's a pic:



Here's the write-up from the service CD.......

SECTION 307-01: Automatic Transmission — 5R55S 2003 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
IN-VEHICLE REPAIR Procedure revision date: 03/11/2003

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Solenoid Body Assembly Printable View (335 KB)

Material Item Specification
MERCON® V Automatic Transmission Fluid
XT-5-QM MERCON® V

Removal and Installation

NOTE: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms can occur while the vehicle relearns its adaptive strategy. The customer needs to be notified that they may experience slightly different upshifts (either soft or firm) and this is a temporary condition and will eventually return to normal operating condition.

Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-00 .
With the vehicle in PARK, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-00 .
Remove the components in the order indicated in the following illustration and table.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.


Item Part Number Description
1 7A194 Transmission fluid pan drain plug
2 — Heated oxygen sensor electrical connector (part of 9F472)
Removal Note
2 — Heated oxygen sensor electrical connector (part of 9F472)
Installation Note
3 — Heated oxygen sensor electrical connector retainer
Removal Note
3 — Heated oxygen sensor electrical connector retainer
Installation Note
4 7E395 Transmission selector lever cable eyelet
5 7B229 Transmission selector lever cable screws and bracket
6 7C078 Solenoid body harness electrical connector
Installation Note
7 14A646 Transmission range TR sensor electrical connector
Removal Note
7 14A646 Transmission range TR sensor electrical connector
Installation Note
8 W500213-S1309 Transmission fluid pan screws
Installation Note
9 7A194 Transmission fluid pan
Installation Note
10 7A191 Transmission fluid pan gasket
11 W70559-S300 Transmission fluid pan filter screws
12 7A098 Transmission fluid pan filter
13 W703189-S1430 Solenoid body screws
Installation Note
14 W702291-S300 Solenoid body screw
Installation Note
15 7G391 Solenoid body
16 W705928-S300 Solenoid body O-ring seals
Installation Note

Verify that the shift cable is adjusted correctly. For additional information, refer to Selector Lever Cable Adjustment in this section.
Item 2: Heated Oxygen Sensor Electrical Connector Removal Note

Disconnect the heated oxygen sensor connector and remove the sensor wire retaining clip from the right side of the transmission pan rail.

Item 3: Heated Oxygen Sensor Electrical Connector Retainer Removal Note

Remove the heated oxygen sensor connector from the front of the transmission pan rail.

Item 7: Transmission Range TR Sensor Electrical Connector Removal Note

Remove and discard the tie strap from the digital TR sensor connector boot.



Slide the rubber boot back and disconnect the digital TR sensor connector.

Item 16: Solenoid Body O-Ring Seals Installation Note

Install new O-ring seals on the solenoid body connector. Lubricate the O-ring seals with clean automatic transmission fluid.

Items 13 and 14: Solenoid Body Screws Installation Note

CAUTION: Inspect the transmission case bore to make sure it is free of foreign material and not damaged. If it is damaged, transmission leak may occur.

Install the solenoid body. Tighten the screws in sequence shown.

Item 9: Transmission Fluid Pan Installation Note

Install the transmission fluid pan and gasket and loosely install the screws.

Item 8: Transmission Fluid Pan Screws Installation Note

Tighten the screws in a crisscross sequence.

Item 7: Transmission Range TR Sensor Electrical Connector Installation Note

Connect the digital TR sensor connector and slide the rubber boot over the connector.

Install a new strap on the digital TR sensor connector boot.

Item 6: Solenoid Body Harness Electrical Connector Installation Note

CAUTION: Damage will occur to the solenoid body assembly if the screw is tightened above the specification.

NOTE: Always install new O-ring seals on vehicle harness connector.

NOTE: Clean the area around connector to prevent contamination of the solenoid body connector.

NOTE: Use petroleum jelly to lubricate the O-ring seals to aid in the installation process.

Install and lubricate new O-ring seals on the transmission connector and connect the connector.

Item 3: Heated Oxygen Sensor Electrical Connector Retainer Installation Note

Install the heated oxygen sensor connector from the front of the transmission pan rail.

Item 2: Heated Oxygen Sensor Electrical Connector Installation Note

Connect the heated oxygen sensor connector and install the sensor wire retaining clip to the right side of the transmission pan rail.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I don't know how to put the pictures in the right place, but they should be in the right order....

5R55S #2.gif


5R55S #3.gif


5R55S #4.gif


5R55S #5.gif


5R55S #6.gif


5R55S #7.gif


5R55S #8.gif
 
Did you buy the car from the shadiest dealer in the world? Maybe it's just me but it sounds ridiculous that you are planning to pay/do this yourself.

About a month after I bought my car I had the same issue. I bought my car used at a reputable dealer although it was a Subaru dealer (Becker Subaru). I did a little research and was able to find out the owner's email (Becker) and sent him an email basically explaining the situation and how disappointed I was considering that Becker Subaru is one of the top rated dealers in all of PA. Literally 30 minutes after I sent the email I received a call from a manager telling me to send them a bill and they would pay for it.

I know dealers are pretty crappy and will try to take your money any way possible, but there are some people willing to help. Instead of talking to the people who work at the dealership, talk to the people that own the dealership.
 
Did you buy the car from the shadiest dealer in the world? Maybe it's just me but it sounds ridiculous that you are planning to pay/do this yourself.

About a month after I bought my car I had the same issue. I bought my car used at a reputable dealer although it was a Subaru dealer (Becker Subaru). I did a little research and was able to find out the owner's email (Becker) and sent him an email basically explaining the situation and how disappointed I was considering that Becker Subaru is one of the top rated dealers in all of PA. Literally 30 minutes after I sent the email I received a call from a manager telling me to send them a bill and they would pay for it.

I know dealers are pretty crappy and will try to take your money any way possible, but there are some people willing to help. Instead of talking to the people who work at the dealership, talk to the people that own the dealership.


I called and talked to one of the owners after all the BS the Salesman put me through ie: lying to the Indy, and about the delivery and delays at the dealership day of pickup. What he said was that he did me a "favor" having the car towed to a shop and having it looked at, and more of a "favor" because nothing was wrong. BS again!!

I didn't want to post the dealer name to be civil, but at this point I don;t care. http://adrenalin-autohaus.ebizautos.com/detail-2004-lincoln-ls-used-5553944.html

I'm taking it to a local dealer I've used in the past, and have always been honest with great workmanship....but not entirely cheap. I'm going to ask them to simply diagnose/confirm the aforementioned Solenoid TSB, and then fax over the paper work to the dealer I bought the car from. That way it shows to be a problem, along with the associated cost. I'm assuming they will want to do the work, and I'll agree, but only if I personally watch the work being done. The crap part is that they are 1.5 hrs away.
 
I didnt think dealerships like this were still around, you would figure they would be out of business by now. Sorry you running into so many problems
 
That is a dealership in its own sense but I don't necessarily consider that a reputable dealer - they don't really have ties to any one manufacturer. For example, if my Lincoln is acting up, I go to a Ford/Lincoln/Mercury specific dealer that (usually) can pinpoint the problem and fix it properly because they are used to dealing with Fords and only Fords. Perhaps I am wrong, but that place doesn't appear to be affiliated with any manufacturer so they aren't receiving any support - meaning that they are fixing the car out of their own pocket - not out of Fords pocket.

I really do hope all works out and they decide to stop screwing around and just fix the problem. Keep us updated.
 
I called and talked to one of the owners after all the BS the Salesman put me through ie: lying to the Indy, and about the delivery and delays at the dealership day of pickup. What he said was that he did me a "favor" having the car towed to a shop and having it looked at, and more of a "favor" because nothing was wrong. BS again!!

I didn't want to post the dealer name to be civil, but at this point I don;t care. http://adrenalin-autohaus.ebizautos.com/detail-2004-lincoln-ls-used-5553944.html

I'm taking it to a local dealer I've used in the past, and have always been honest with great workmanship....but not entirely cheap. I'm going to ask them to simply diagnose/confirm the aforementioned Solenoid TSB, and then fax over the paper work to the dealer I bought the car from. That way it shows to be a problem, along with the associated cost. I'm assuming they will want to do the work, and I'll agree, but only if I personally watch the work being done. The crap part is that they are 1.5 hrs away.

That's not a dealership. That's a used car seller. They have no manufacturer to answer too. Sorry...
 

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