IMRC rebuilding/rebushing

Ok, got the right side cleaned and reassembled. Installed new orings, and now both bearings move when the rod is turned, so I know they are sealed. Should have no more vacuum leaks. Now I think I will take apart the actuator cans and make a good one out of both. Then maybe try to find a used one. I can't afford a new can right now.
IF anyone need to seal theirs, I used an oring from autozone. It measures 5mm id/9mm od/4mm thick. cost 49 cents a piece.
 
I'm following this thread closely, please don't forget to update the thread.

I'll make my way to a U-Pull It this week and see if I can rebuild a pair for mine. What did the old O-rings look like when they came out?
 
Flat, hard and brittle. Took a pair of cutting pliers to them, and they just dissintegrated. If I can't find one to use, I'll just put them both back on, and leave the check engine light on. One day I'll have enough money to do a "c" head conversion. Then I'll just get rid of them.
 
Just a little update, I spend the last week and a half trying to find one of the actuators, but to no avail. I just ordered a new right side from Max at five star ford. Should be here by late next week. IN the mean time, I can start reinstalling the intake manifold.
 
Just wanted to give a final update to this thread. I received the actuator from max, and reinstalled everything. The engine had a lot of cleaner in it, so it took a while for it to start. I sprayed some throttle body cleaner at each of the front and rear bearings and didn't notice a difference in idle rpm/engine smoothness, like I did before. So, I would presume that the new orings did the trick.
 
I bought a pair of used IMRCs off a '94 Mark VIII. They were supposed to be off a low-mileage Mark, but I'd just assume replace the o-rings regardless before installing them.

Can you walk me through this? How do you remove the shaft? I'm looking at the part and it's not looking obvious to me.
 
I think I told you this already. You remove all 4 butterflies, actuator from the plate, then pull the shaft out of the back. You need to hold up the 3 tensioners on the underside. Each butterfly has 2 screws.
 
AHD and I have been discussing this through PMs, but for the sake of community knowledge:

To clear up any confusion, there aren't any o-rings in there, but there is some kind of carbon-like seal on the shaft. (edit: those are the o-rings, they are just dried up, shrunken, and brittle) Here are my photos of the shaft removed from the assembly.

imrc3kv9.jpg


imrc1fp2.jpg


imrc2kg5.jpg


AHD replaced those worn rings with rubber o-rings and has had success. I'm about to try the same thing. I considered the delete again, but since most of the driving in the Mark VIII is at RPMs bellow 3000 RPM (even cruising at 80mph) I've decided against it. And a S/C is out of the question for a 200k miles engine.

I think I'm going to look for some teflon o-rings. AHD said he used 5mm ID, 9mm OD, 4mm thick o-rings.
 
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I am having trouble removing the lower intake manifold. How do I remove the front two bolts? Do I have to remove the two metal coolant hoses in the front on wither side? If so, How is this done?
 
yes you have to remove the coolant cross over tube, its pushed tightly into the cylinder heads with O-rings its a little tough to get out but it will come out.
 
I will give it another shot. How much coolant will be spilt? Is it worth draining the entire system?
 
leaky sumbitch

I have the same problem with mine.Hey Jamie, do you have a set of these I can buy to rebuild?
 
Just got done cleaning the IMRC valves. Passenger side was stuck open with a P1518 code. I tried seafoam 5 times and they were still stuck. So I took it apart and this is what it looked like. (See below) Doesn't look like sea foam did much of anything.

NOW I HAVE ANOTHER PROBLEM. I have a cracked coolant cross over pipe. Probably from fighting with it to get it off. Any one know of a good fix?

20101128121701.jpg
 
usmcpv said:
NOW I HAVE ANOTHER PROBLEM. I have a cracked coolant cross over pipe. Probably from fighting with it to get it off. Any one know of a good fix?
Click to expand...

I've got a few crossover tubes for Gen 2's in my garage. Most are bead-blasted and are ready for paint/powdercoat, another one that I just bought hasn't been blasted yet. $50 shipped through PayPal and it's yours. I can have it in the mail the next day after payment.
 
What's the best way to get the crossovers off without breaking anything?
 
I did not see your reply until now.Can you still get a set of these and how much?I am trying to cut down on the down time and will have my originals spare when done.I will go ahead and rebuild them while I am at it.Thanks Tom
 
Are you looking for the crossover tube or for the IMRC's? Depending on what year you have, I should be able to help you with either one.
 
98, I believe Hang is looking for a set of Gen 2 IMRC plates. Wow, my thread was revived from almost 3-1/2 years ago.
 
Lol, yeah that's pretty funny. I've got a set of gen 2 IMRC's off of my 97's original engine that have been cleaned in an ultrasonic sink and look pretty good. I'd have to get a pretty good offer for them though. I had them cleaned up waiting to go into my 98 when I put the cobra intake on. I know they usually fetch around $100 or more on the mustang forums.
 
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