Incredible WAX

Just tried the nanowax. It works better than anything else you could buy in the autoparts store. I've tried a bunch and this is my new favorite. Sorry no pic, camera is not working.
 
I used NanoWax yesterday.

I have a picture from a month ago using some basic turtle wax and then a comparison with the Eagle One Nanowax. The Nanowax goes on easy, but it doesn't haze or dry completely like I wished. nano is on the right and there's more sunlight, but it does work nice.

The small microfiber cloth they give you, is TOO small. I bought a larger one at Walmart later. Do yourself a favor and buy a larger micofiber before you do your whole car.

I'll give it a 9 out of 10 since it didn't haze fully. But the results are good. It shines like a mirror.

WaxLS.JPG
 
few question... I think im going to try this nanowax stuff, have all you guys that used it only used the way or started it off with a polish or paint cleaner? I'm thinking of using a clay bar first. Second do you guys apply by hand or use a electric buffer? And third would you rather use a microfiber or 100% cotton terry towel to remove the wax. Thanks
 
Heres what you do:

Depending on the condition of your paint you start off with an abrasive. really bad use 3m rubbing compound. Not so bad use Meguiars swirl remover #9. Put either of these on with a random orbit buffer. Lowes has them for like 20$. Use this type of buffer unless you are fimiliar with the use of a rotary buffer. Random orbit buffers are faster and easier than hand application and less dangerous than rotary (rotary will eat through paint if not careful). If you want to go for the show car shine, follow this up with meguiars show car glaze. These steps will take all of the minor imperfections out of the paint (ex. swirl marks, hard water stains, and small scratches). If you do it right you will hardly be able to tell the difference between a waxed spot and unwaxed spot. DO NOT DO THIS IN THE SUN!!!! It dries out the compounds too fast and can clog up the pads. Use a wool pad with rubbing compound and a terry pad with the others. Follow directions on bottle for application.

Next wash the car with a good carwash. It will take off all of the compunds you didn't manage to wipe off.

For the nano wax, put it on and let it sit for 15-20 minutes so it completly dries. It will wipe off easier. ALSO DO USE IN THE SUN!!! If its too hot or in the sun the wax stays liquid and is a pain to wipe off.

Any questions just ask.
 
Let me add just a little to Sedated's good advice and warn you about one thing.

The warning first: I would never recommend anyone use the old-style rubbing compounds on modern clear-coat paint jobs. You will haze the the clear-coat if you do and will have to work like he!! with finer cleaner/polishes to get the hazing out. There are cleaner/polishes that are more aggressive that you can use if the milder ones don't do the job. Rubbing compounds do still have a role to play on old single-stage paint, but even on those, modern cutting compounds are usually superior.

Modern paint cleaners and cleaner/polishes are the way to go. They offer a diminishing abrasive that breaks down as they are worked. So they have a cutting action at first and then a polishing action as they break down. This avoids hazing when used properly. And I agree that a dual-action, orbital buffer is the sanest way to apply them, although you'll have to work by hand for those place you can't get the pad into. Meguiar's #9 is a mild cleaner/polish. On my '06 that came from the dealer with really bad swirling, #9 wouldn't do the job. I had to move up to #83 in some places with #80 as a follow-up and just used #80 where swirling wasn't too bad. Any of Meguiar's pure polishes (#03, #05, #07) will be fine and is actually an optional step. Then follow with the wax.

I use 80% Meguiar's professional line nowadays, although I used exclusively generics from detail supply houses before. If you don't want to go to the trouble of tracking down a detail supply shop that sell's Meguiar's, a really good combination that is readily available in auto parts stores is Mother's two-step Power products. There's a Power Polish Step 1 and Power Wax Step 2.

One other thing ... use mild foam polishing pads, not wool or terry. The cleaner/polishes that are appropriate for application with an orbital (not circular) buffer are formulated to let the compound do the work, not the pad. Real wool is about the most aggressive cutter there is short of wet-sanding.
 
The rubbing compund I was refering to, and i should have been clearer is a product by 3M. It is a liquid rubbing compound that is the equilvalent of about 3000 grit sand paper. I have used it on both of my black cars with fantasic results. Also they make a syntheic "wool pad" that is much milder and not all that harsh. You should always use the least aggressive compound for the job. My paint was horribly swirled. I had to use the 3M rubbing compund to remove the swirls. It is fairly gentle when used with a random orbit buffer. The meguiars line of products is great, and I get about the same results with 3M.

Here is a link to the 3M rubbing compound
http://www.autobarn.net/mmm39002.html
Take note that there is also a heavy cut too.

Also for those not familiar with these compounds, they are ABRASIVE!! What it does is sands your clear coat down to a level surface. You have to be careful or you can go through your clearcoat. For those not comfortable goto your local body shop and ask how much they would do it for. Should be around 200$.
 
My experience is indicating that the entire Nanawax line of products works incredibly well. Just used it on my black/black Mark VIII and the results were excellent, and it's almost effortless to use.
 
saw that stuff, almost snagged a bottle, but just went with all meguires, should have used a clay bar, but, there nxt gen tech wax was awesome on neglected black paint, plus it always smells good.... (cleaning,polishing and waxing is a bitch aint it)
 

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