Lincoln LS 302

dwiggy said:
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Had a surprise waiting for me in my garage after work...
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Sweet! So is that the Advantage one that lets you do full programming? If so I'm looking forward to hearing how you like it. My ordering one has been delayed a bit due to stuff at home. My wife and I have some surgery coming up in the next month so I'm trying to finish up existing projects. No new ones until after we both recover.
 
Telco said:
Sweet! So is that the Advantage one that lets you do full programming? If so I'm looking forward to hearing how you like it. My ordering one has been delayed a bit due to stuff at home. My wife and I have some surgery coming up in the next month so I'm trying to finish up existing projects. No new ones until after we both recover.
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I did not purchase the ProRacer Advantage software. I'm basically paying MPT 100$ to do the tune. I'll let you know what we do and take pictures along the way.
 
Start of the tune:

Here is an example of the information that you need to tune one of these Ford computers:

Year: 2000
Make: Lincoln
Model: LS

VIN:--
Strategy:JAAS6B8* (You have to use the SCT tuner to pull this from the "Vehicle Information Menu".
Engine:3.9
Transmission:Automatic

Specifics-- Swapped to 5.0, 5 speed manual...

Mike said that he should be able to swap the computer to manual which will be a huge help. The resistors are ok, but I'd rather turn it all off.
 
Tune Update

I wanted to give an update on my tuning experience.

Mike at MPT sent me a baseline tune file and I did in initial datalog today. I told him the details of the swap and was surprised at how good the car ran with his baseline tune.

I ran into a couple of problems along the way with my car. Here are the details incase others have a similiar situation.

First, I could not get the SCT tuner to fully upload the oem tune from the PCM. It kept timing out and giving me 1017 and 1009 errors. Per Mike's advice I pulled some fuses and this solved the problem: (A/C, Fuel Inj, Trans Solenoid, HEGO, COPs, ABS Module, ABS Motor, Radio, ABS/TCS, Cluster, O/D, Cluster, Climate Control, and Shift interlock). All of these systems were possibly interupting the SCT X3.

After that the tune was fine and we began to datalog:

We ran SCT Livewire software from my laptop and he gave me a custom configuration file. I'm not going to post these files because this is their bread and butter.

The first datalog was a neutral test at 2min idle, 10sec 1Krpm, 1500rpm ... all the way to 4000rpm.

Mike is now working with that data.

One final note: Mike was able to turn off the transmission controller. This car is now a manual transmission! There is no need for funky resitors and and diodes.

So far More Power Tuning and SCT is good money spent!


P.S. Still love the brakes. ... And they are much better than stock...lol!
 
this is incredible. The work that is going into this is just plain ans simply great and the fact that you went all the way says a lot. most here, come up with an idea and stop
 
Its been a while since I've been on here, sold my ls due to needing a suv for the wife(ls was hers). I was considering keeping the ls and doing a engine swap to a 302 or 351 but couldn't find the info on the wiring. Your build gives me new hope about this swap and I might try picking up another ls with a blown engine and trying it.
Approximately how much did the engine and trans swap wind up costing? I have a lot of experience with the 302 and 351 engines from various mustang builds and would love to build another stroked 351 (last mustang was 351 based 393 tuned on e85) for a ls. 470rwhp in a ls would be a lot of fun.
 
93blucoupe said:
Its been a while since I've been on here, sold my ls due to needing a suv for the wife(ls was hers). I was considering keeping the ls and doing a engine swap to a 302 or 351 but couldn't find the info on the wiring. Your build gives me new hope about this swap and I might try picking up another ls with a blown engine and trying it.
Approximately how much did the engine and trans swap wind up costing? I have a lot of experience with the 302 and 351 engines from various mustang builds and would love to build another stroked 351 (last mustang was 351 based 393 tuned on e85) for a ls. 470rwhp in a ls would be a lot of fun.
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I bought a lot of nice parts like the coolant filler neck, 4bbl intake, trickflow plenum, etc and such that went high on the budget. Here is a pretty quick run down on the basics:

2000 Explorer Engine 600
Engine Rebuild Parts 400
2005-07 Mustang v6 t5 with shifter 400
Mustang Bell 100
Drive shaft 300
Pinion Flange 50
Jaguar Fan 50
Motor Mounts (custom) ~50
Custom AC lines 100
Fan Controller 100
Clutch Pedal Assembly 200 - if you can find one or modify a European Jag like me
Oil Pan 200
Adapt Factory Exhaust ~100
Tuner 379
AEM Wideband 200
Custom Tune 100
Misc ?

You could probably pull it off for about 3500 if you can do the work yourself.

Labor PRICELESS - Fitment takes forever! I have had to do everything 3 or 4 times to get it close to right. This is truly a custom build and nothing will fit out of the box.

I've gone way over board on this car so I have a lot more than that in it.

You could pay 2200 (that was the quote I received) and have someone make a Jag flywheel to mate with the manual trans and then spend another 3k to throw some turbos on the factory engine -- at least things would fit better.

That being said -- this has been a great project that I can tweak on forever.
 
dwiggy said:
You could pay 2200 (that was the quote I received) and have someone make a Jag flywheel to mate with the manual trans and then spend another 3k to throw some turbos on the factory engine -- at least things would fit better.
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Those are two mods I would Fin' kill for lol. If I could get my LS Turbo'd and manual I would be in heaven.

Hows the car doing anyway dwiggy?
 
Stopsign002 said:
Those are two mods I would Fin' kill for lol. If I could get my LS Turbo'd and manual I would be in heaven.
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If I could quit my job and fabricate these two things in a kit I would do it tomorrow my friend!


Stopsign002 said:
Those are two mods I would Fin' kill for lol. If I could get my LS Turbo'd and manual I would be in heaven.

Hows the car doing anyway dwiggy?
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The car is actually diong really good. I have put 3k miles on it.

I did all of the suspension and lowered it about 1.5 inches. I took 3/4 of a coil off of each spring and installed sport shocks all the way around.

I built a new alternator bracket and moved it to the bottom of the engine.

I remounted my coils (truly a nice design).

I installed an 8.8 rear that I had lying around.

The tuning has taken a while. We ran into an issue with the O2 readings because I swapped cylinders to correct for the timing difference between the LS and 5.0 cams. Then my SCT analog port stopped working. It's getting repaired right now.

I just bought a Honda S2000 EPS rack and controller. I'm going to swap that in after the tuning is straight to get rid of all the front end hydraulics.

I'm traveling for work right now. I'll take some pictures when I'm back in town.
 
The coils were giving me some engineering issues. I was hard set on retaining the factory COP design with the boots attached. This proved difficult to mount. Once I decided to make custom wires I could flip the coils on their sides. This setup only cost about 15 dollars and I had the Ford Racing wires lying around.

Here are the coil mounts;

Old - Mockup

oldcoils.jpg

New - Final

newcoils.jpg

New valve covers too... third set

oldcoils.jpg


newcoils.jpg
 
dwiggy said:
I just bought a Honda S2000 EPS rack and controller. I'm going to swap that in after the tuning is straight to get rid of all the front end hydraulics.
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I am VERY interested in this. How do you plan to make this work? I've been trying to come up with a reliable way to get the power steering pump off my truck's engine. I don't mind the hydraulics and was looking at doing something like a Toyota MR2 pump, but those are getting to be rare as hen's teeth. I've also been trying to find something along the lines of a standalone CAN controller that would allow me to use a newer CAN controlled steering pump. No luck so far.

This would be worth a new thread and a separate project. When you take those pics, some measurements would be great too, like mount to mount, end to end, ect. Also, don't know how much you know on suspensions, but if you aren't already aware look up bump steer as switching to this rack can cause bump steer if it's not set up right.
 
Telco said:
I am VERY interested in this. How do you plan to make this work? I've been trying to come up with a reliable way to get the power steering pump off my truck's engine. I don't mind the hydraulics and was looking at doing something like a Toyota MR2 pump, but those are getting to be rare as hen's teeth. I've also been trying to find something along the lines of a standalone CAN controller that would allow me to use a newer CAN controlled steering pump. No luck so far.

This would be worth a new thread and a separate project. When you take those pics, some measurements would be great too, like mount to mount, end to end, ect. Also, don't know how much you know on suspensions, but if you aren't already aware look up bump steer as switching to this rack can cause bump steer if it's not set up right.
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Telco,

Don’t go with electro-hydraulic because there is no way to control the motor, it is too expensive, and too complicated.

Here is my design. I'm not doing this until later in the year. I'll have a new thread when I set it up.


Parts:
Honda S2000 steering rack – 200 dollars used
Honda S2000 EPS module – connectors – 150 dollars used
Honda S2000 steering u-joint – 30 dollars used
Lincoln LS outer tie rods - have
Lincoln LS inner tie rods - have
3/8" X 12" X 24" Steel plate 30 dollars
Unknown size steel tubing 30 dollars
Spool 10’ 6ga copper wire – 15 dollars
Spool 25’ 18ga copper wire – 10 dollars
MSD or equivalent Tach Driver for DIS – 90 dollars
Total – est. 555 dollars
I found my steering rack and EPS module for 245$ together off of low mileage cars.

Build:

Fabrication ---
1) Brace steering wheel
2) Remove steering column lower u-joint
3) Measure vertical angle of pinion input
4) Remove Lincoln LS rack and pinion with tie rods attached
5) Measure distance between the outer tie rods - center to center in a straight line
6) Cut steel plate facing the cross member
7) Drill steel plate facing cross member with three mounting holes
8) Support S2000 steering rack in Lincoln LS factory position with jack stands
9) Align lower S2000 bolt holes at .5” above lowest position of cross member
10) Align S2000 pinion input as close as possible to Lincoln LS factory pinion angle (within 3 degrees)
11) Measure angle of S2000 rack and pinion mounting flanges
12) Cut steel plate to mount to the bottom of S2000 steering rack
13) Tack weld the steel plate to the cross member steel plate
14) Sit S2000 rack onto mounting plate; then mark and drill holes
15) Measure position and pinion angle once again
16) Weld the steel plates together
17) Cut steel tubing to mount between two steel plates as support bearing in mind that the S2000 rack must be serviceable
18) Remove the S2000 steering rack and line it up next to the Lincoln LS OEM unit
19) Remove the Lincoln LS Outer tie rods
Option 1. If the S2000 rack is too narrow or the inner tie rods are too short - cut the Lincoln LS inner tie rods at a length necessary to extend the S2000 inner tie rods to the OEM Lincoln LS width – then using steel tubing as a sheath, weld the Lincoln LS tie rod section to the S2000 inner tie rods.
Option 2. If the S2000 rack is the correct width and different threads cut 4” from inner tie rods on S2000, cut the appropriate amount of Lincoln LS inner tie rod, and replace missing S2000 section with Lincoln LS inner tie rods of the correct length – use steel tube as a sheath.
Option 3. If the S2000 rack is the same width and same thread just replace the outer tie rods with the Lincoln LS OEM units.
23) Mount finished steering rack in Lincoln LS.
24) Modify Lincoln LS u-joint or S2000 u-joint to connect steering column.
25) Mount S2000 EPS module to vehicle behind passenger’s side wheel well directly in front of HVAC filter.
26) Remove all hydraulic lines, power steering pump, and cooler from the Lincoln LS.

Electrical ---
1) Using 6ga wire – connect the EPS module to the steering rack motor
2) Using 6ga wire – connect EPS module ground to the chassis
3) Using 6ga wire and inline 50amp fuse – connect the EPS power to the battery power at the starter
4) Using 18ga wire – connect EPS module pin 1 to switched ignition source
5) Using 18ga wire – connect EPS module pin 2 to the VSS (speed sensor)
6) Using 18ga wire – connect EPS module pin 3 to S2000 rack torque sensor pin 1
7) Using 18ga wire – connect EPS module pin 4 to ground
8) Using 18ga wire – connect EPS module pin 5 to an MSD Tach Driver for engine RPM
9) Using 18ga wire – connect EPS module pin 6 to ground
10) Using 18ga wire – connect EPS module pin 7 to S2000 rack torque sensor pin 2
11) Using 18ga wire – connect EPS module pin 8 to unconnected dash harness for later use or service
12) Using 18ga wire – connect EPS module pin 11 to S2000 rack torque sensor pin 3
13) Using 18ga wire – connect EPS module pin 12 to unconnected dash harness for later use or service
14) Using 18ga wire – connect EPS module pin 13 to relay that connects PCM pin 17 and pin 37 for idle up
15) Using 18ga wire – connect EPS module pin 14 to unconnected dash harness for later use or service

Notes:
EPS Pins 8, 12, and 14 are used for diagnostics. Pin 12 is an indicator.
Leave the Lincoln LS solenoid disconnected.
Pins 37 and 17 to the powertrain control module are in the steering pressure connector.

Wiring Diagram:

epswiring1.jpg
Deviations and specifics will be in the actual build later this year.

Image reference:
http://forums.acuralegend.org/diy-s2000-eps-into-t14439.html?

epswiring1.jpg
 
Cool, looks like you've done a lot of research on this. I'm in no hurry. I'll have to see if I can even use a rack in my 4x4 truck, which is what I'm working on. If it'll work I'd prefer to use a lightweight rack over the heavy steel components my truck currently uses. The 4x4 is only used in the winter, I'm not an offroader.

Incidentally, the 2001-2005 Toyota MR2 electrohydraulic pump has its own built-in controller. All it requires is power, ground and a VSS signal so there's no problem with using one or having it be speed sensitive, the only problem is findind one in good shape. I can get one from Toyota for 550 bucks, which is a bit steep for me at the moment. A lot of other people have made this conversion (part of why they are so hard to find) and report that this conversion works really well at all speeds.
 
A few more STR corrections.

The 2003-2005 STR did not have VVT (Variable Valve Timing). The regular 4.2L S Type did. In 2006 VVT was added to the 4.2L SC STR. We are not completely sure but it looks to be added for emissions reasons and NOT for added power. To further confuse things around 2006 the US government forced many car manufactures to change the HP ratings of their engines. This was due to the way it was measured. The end result is most small Japanese engines lost power and most larger V-6 and V-8 engines gained some. It was not a lot either way.

The 2003-2005 STR is rated at 390 HP and 399 TQ. Some places show the 2006-2008 STR to have 420 HP but the car is no faster? Still a bit of a mystery!!
.
.
.
 
Telco said:
Cool, looks like you've done a lot of research on this. I'm in no hurry. I'll have to see if I can even use a rack in my 4x4 truck, which is what I'm working on. If it'll work I'd prefer to use a lightweight rack over the heavy steel components my truck currently uses. The 4x4 is only used in the winter, I'm not an offroader.

Incidentally, the 2001-2005 Toyota MR2 electrohydraulic pump has its own built-in controller. All it requires is power, ground and a VSS signal so there's no problem with using one or having it be speed sensitive, the only problem is findind one in good shape. I can get one from Toyota for 550 bucks, which is a bit steep for me at the moment. A lot of other people have made this conversion (part of why they are so hard to find) and report that this conversion works really well at all speeds.
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If this is what you want to do, plan, save, purchase the right parts, and do it right.

You'll make more money but you'll never make more time.
 
dwiggy said:
If this is what you want to do, plan, save, purchase the right parts, and do it right.

You'll make more money but you'll never make more time.
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No worries there. Been modding vehicles to suit my own needs for over 20 years now.
 
Telco said:
No worries there. Been modding vehicles to suit my own needs for over 20 years now.
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I looked up the Toyota electric pump and couldn't find a built on controller.

What concerns me about this pump is that I has to run alot.

How do you plan on sensing the steering movement in your truck to shut the pump off when it is not needed?
 
There are two different pumps. The one from the 1990s does not have the integrated controller, the 2001 on up does. The integrated controller apparently has pressure sensors that picks up when you turn the wheel and speeds the pump accordingly as when you start to turn the wheel it will push against the fluid. The folks running them say that they work fine with just power and ground, but if you want the speed sensitive steering to work then it needs the VSS.

Are you needing an steering sensor for the rack project? If so I've seen them optical sensors out there, would just need to track them down again.
 
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