joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
You overpaid for the plugs.
You want to risk killing the $50 coils by not changing the $5 spark plug?
You could save the labor charge too. This is a pretty easy DIY job.
Lincoln LS getting terrible mileage
- Thread starter LincolnLS_2013
- Start date
You overpaid for the plugs.
You want to risk killing the $50 coils by not changing the $5 spark plug?
You could save the labor charge too. This is a pretty easy DIY job.
FASTLLS
Dedicated LVC Member
Not saying this is bad, but clogged cats will make you have terrible fuel mileage.. When mine were bad, I was getting 14. After them and a new exhaust, I was getting around 25-26.
Synthetic oil helps too..
Synthetic oil helps too..
LincolnLS_2013
Active LVC Member
Na, mines is just light gray. There's another light gray LS on my street too. In Ottawa I've also seen one maroon LS and one tan LS.
Yeah, I wasn't sure which to buy. I'll look for those Motocraft Platinums. Thanks.
Replacing the spark plugs...? I would probably have to pick up some tools. Replacing the coils looks easy though.
I got the synthetic oil.
What's a clogged cat -- a catalytic converter?
RigsLS
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Just to follow up for LincolnLS_2013,
while I was out today for a little run, on some long straights for about 5min with one 4 way stop,
I averaged between 25-26.2Mpg but I babied it at 2100RPM doing around 62-65Mph
several stop and go's around in a little town nearby me, she was down to doing 18-20Mpg.
Only when I put my foot into a bit more she started coming down to 11-15Mpg.
after a few more long straights getting it to settle, I was back up to 24Mpg when I arrived in my drive way.
I'm sure I can get back on the highway, lock it in at Grandpa RPMs and get my 27Mpg back.
while I was out today for a little run, on some long straights for about 5min with one 4 way stop,
I averaged between 25-26.2Mpg but I babied it at 2100RPM doing around 62-65Mph
several stop and go's around in a little town nearby me, she was down to doing 18-20Mpg.
Only when I put my foot into a bit more she started coming down to 11-15Mpg.
after a few more long straights getting it to settle, I was back up to 24Mpg when I arrived in my drive way.
I'm sure I can get back on the highway, lock it in at Grandpa RPMs and get my 27Mpg back.
Luk3
Well-Known LVC Member
i can get 24mpg at 2100rpm with 19" wheels but that only lasts about 10 minutes then it's back to cruising at 79mph. I used to get 26mpg with the stock 16s.
Would a dirty MAF kill mpg a little?
Would a dirty MAF kill mpg a little?
RigsLS
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Like I said, 27 is my best but I can only drive 62Mph for so long, for me the sweet spot with my current set up is right holding at 2100-2150Rpm on cruise, anything over 2200 and it starts to go down.
I'm still on my stocker 17's
I'm still on my stocker 17's
G-RELL
FULLY DIPPED LS
jinx8402
Active LVC Member
I would do the fuel filter if you haven't done it recently as well.
G-RELL
FULLY DIPPED LS
MAF, air/fuel filters...new engine
Winter fuel yields fewer MPG. Do you let the car "warm-up"? That will absolutely KILL MPG. Was that all at once? My mileage has plummeted since I don't do much freeway driving anymore.
Also, the V6 is only ~1MPG better than the V8.
Also, the V6 is only ~1MPG better than the V8.
G-RELL
FULLY DIPPED LS
I gained 1mpg with a fuel filter
Yea I do. I'll usually let it warm up to about the first notch on the temp gauge before i take off. I thought driving with the engine cold was bad. It was 22 miles hwy to school, 22 miles hwy back to my gf's house and about 5 miles city back home.
That was the old days. The engine will warm up much faster by driving it. Just don't drive it like a 1/4 mile dragster until it warms up.
My routine has been (since ~1986) start the car, drop it into neutral, wait for the RPM to drop down (~1K) and take off. Letting it idle that long will definitely kill your mileage. It's actually worse than driving in stop-n-go traffic. The engine runs much richer until it reaches operating temperature.
Well that explains the gas smell during the cold.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Engines experience the most wear when they are cold. This is because all of the parts haven't yet expanded to their designed size. (They are designed for the sizes the parts expand to at normal operating temperatures.) What you are doing is maximizing the time that the engine spends operating at low temperature. This is shortening engine life, not helping it.
Get in, start it, and drive it in a reasonable manor. The engine will warm up much quicker under load, and so will have less wear.
In the old days, all of this was still true, but there was a difference then. With carburetors and chokes, you had to wait for the engine to warm up some or it might stall when you pressed on the gas pedal to pull out into traffic.
I'd assume the same goes for the transmission too? My mechanic put in a trans cooler during the rebuild and told me to warm the car up before driving. But reading what you told me, it sounds like he told me a bunch of bs. 
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
I'd assume the same goes for the transmission too? My mechanic put in a trans cooler during the rebuild and told me to warm the car up before driving. But reading what you told me, it sounds like he told me a bunch of bs.
Yes.
I'm not sure about gen I, but gen II sport only have air to oil transmission coolers, and they are mounted in front of the radiator, behind the condenser. In cold weather, it would take forever idling to warm up the transmission.
purevilpleasure
Dedicated LVC Member
How many 100lb dead bodies you guys hauling around.
On the interstate driving at 70 I can get around 30.
City driving I get about 15 to 20.
My average since I drive slow on gravels and then only drive about 20 miles after that I avg about 22.5
On the interstate driving at 70 I can get around 30.
City driving I get about 15 to 20.
My average since I drive slow on gravels and then only drive about 20 miles after that I avg about 22.5