Lug Nut Heads Up

I checked them out and low and behold, they do in fact work. Now I'm really confused....

It was my understanding that the whole purpose of these stupid assed nuts was for the washer and the bottom of the nut to bottom out on the rim and the rotor at the same time, respectivley. I took a much closer look at the factory nuts. They don't stick though the rim. How the heck can they engage the rotor if they don't touch? Better still, these replacement nuts don't touch either. Okay... so what centers the rim on the hub? A near loose fit between the nut and the hole in the rim? Yeah that's accurate, no chance for an out of round condition there. At least with the old style nuts with the taper on the front face, as long as you ran them down gently and in sequence (like you're supposed to anyway), you know you're centering the rim on that stud. How is this an improvement? Am I missing something obvious?
 
Last thing replaced under warrentee.

I had my 2000 in to the dealer for heater valve replacement, and they replaced all the lugnuts without me asking. I never had a problem with the old ones. I hope they didn't give me the difficult ones that are described in this thread. Removal of the old ones was never a problem but I alwayys ued an impact gun so really don't know if they were frozen.
 
so whats the verdict

kleetus said:
I checked them out and low and behold, they do in fact work. Now I'm really confused....

It was my understanding that the whole purpose of these stupid assed nuts was for the washer and the bottom of the nut to bottom out on the rim and the rotor at the same time, respectivley. I took a much closer look at the factory nuts. They don't stick though the rim. How the heck can they engage the rotor if they don't touch? Better still, these replacement nuts don't touch either. Okay... so what centers the rim on the hub? A near loose fit between the nut and the hole in the rim? Yeah that's accurate, no chance for an out of round condition there. At least with the old style nuts with the taper on the front face, as long as you ran them down gently and in sequence (like you're supposed to anyway), you know you're centering the rim on that stud. How is this an improvement? Am I missing something obvious?



so is it ok to use the sebring nuts ? will I get any vibration in my front end ?
how do you center the wheel on the hub ?
 
Nut that is a funny word. After reading all this I think I am going to go out to the garage and check the nuts myself.
 
stinknlinknls8 said:
so is it ok to use the sebring nuts ? will I get any vibration in my front end ?
how do you center the wheel on the hub ?


I've been using the Sebring lug nuts for a couple of years now. No issues. The p/n used to be MB579290, and you need to get the ones for a manufacture date of 4/1/97. IIRC, they're ~$3 a piece.
 
For a savings of $8 i dont see the point of going non-oem. If there are "new" versions that have been improved upon then just spend the extra $8. Putting Chrysler parts on a Lincoln.....come on people. Have some pride in your LS. :N
 
Fla02LS said:
For a savings of $8 i dont see the point of going non-oem. If there are "new" versions that have been improved upon then just spend the extra $8. Putting Chrysler parts on a Lincoln.....come on people. Have some pride in your LS. :N

You would be surprised how often that happens right from the factory. One that comes to mind is Dana front and rear differentials. Ford and GM used them for years...and that's a Mopar company. Also, power steering gears and pumps, alternators, etc. Heck...even the 71 429 Cobra Jet Mustang came with a Quadrajet on it!!! I'll never forget the feeling I had when I opened the hood on my car all those years ago and saw the GM carb on my CJ. I about died. Damn good carb though!!
 
Fla02LS said:
For a savings of $8 i dont see the point of going non-oem. If there are "new" versions that have been improved upon then just spend the extra $8. Putting Chrysler parts on a Lincoln.....come on people. Have some pride in your LS. :N


The difference is the Chrysler nut is a solid piece, whereas the Lincoln piece is a nut with a tin cover (which WILL deform over time!). The Chrysler nut is of exceedingly higher quality than the Lincoln (Ford Tempo) nut.
 
That part number is a mitsubishi number. Just thouht I would throw that out there.
 
I would have to think that most people with lug nut problems are those up north changing wheels and tires every winter or those who regularly take their wheels off. But with mine being an '02 and not having any problems i'll still probably be on the safe side and put the newer "revised" LS nuts on next tire purchase.
 
Fla02LS said:
I would have to think that most people with lug nut problems are those up north changing wheels and tires every winter or those who regularly take their wheels off. But with mine being an '02 and not having any problems i'll still probably be on the safe side and put the newer "revised" LS nuts on next tire purchase.

Good idea. And one more VERY important step...use a light coating of anti-seize on the studs. You will be very glad you did down the road.
 
2001LS8Sport said:
Good idea. And one more VERY important step...use a light coating of anti-seize on the studs. You will be very glad you did down the road.

NOT a good idea.

Tire rack says:

NOTE: We suggest removing the wheel and applying a thin coating of “antiseize” around the axle hubs to help prevent rust and permit easier removal when it’s time to rotate your tires. Do not apply “antiseize” to the lug hardware or studs

And Gorilla Lock Co. says:

McGard does not recommend the use of oil, grease or anti-seize lubricants on threads. Spraying the threads with a greaseless lubricant (such as LPS-1) once a year is recommended.
 
Can you tell if you have the newer nuts just from looking at them? I have a 2002 that was manufacturered mid year '02.

Has anyone had problems with the ebring nuts ?
 
KenRosier said:
Can you tell if you have the newer nuts just from looking at them? I have a 2002 that was manufacturered mid year '02.

Has anyone had problems with the ebring nuts ?

I have a 2002 that was built in June of 2002 and it appears to have the old style lug nuts. I just picked it up and it has new rotors (another common LS problem), so I wanted to hand torque the lug nuts to avoid warping the rotors. Anyways, they have tin covers and several were a real bear. I had to hammer a 19mm six point socket on to get the re-torqued. I will be buying new lug nuts shortly. If I got a flat, I would be out of luck with the garbage lug nuts on there now.
 
Is there any where online that I can get those Sebring lug nuts?....
I dont have a Chrysler dealership close to where I live. I've checked ebay but cant find any......
 
There was a recal a friend of mine works at a ford dealer and the chrome plating falls off the lugnuts allowing them to rust solid! so just bring it to ford and givem hell cause ford did have the techs roll out into the parking lots and pull all LS's and another car with the same lug nuts and replace every one!
Nate
 
Quik LS said:
The lug wrench should be 20 mm - 6 pt. Do NOT use any 12 point sockets as you will not can a good grip.


BTW: the Sebring lugs are a direct replacement (OEM Part Number MB579290) build dates after 4/97 - however your stock lug wrench will not work on these lugs. I believe you'll need a 13/16" for these new lugs.

The newer Lincoln lugs are 3W4Z-1012-AA List $4.83


I tries to get these (OEM Part Number MB579290) from a Chrysler dealer and they told me it was not a valid part number. Does anyone have another#.
 
KenRosier said:
I tries to get these (OEM Part Number MB579290) from a Chrysler dealer and they told me it was not a valid part number. Does anyone have another#.

I'm guessing we can just ask for sebring lug nuts....for any recent year...

can anyone confirm this?
 
cableguynoe said:
I'm guessing we can just ask for sebring lug nuts....for any recent year...

can anyone confirm this?


From what I understand, these are a certain lug nut that was used on the Sebring Convertable only but I'm not sure what year(s).
 
I tries to get these Sebring convertable nug nuts (OEM Part Number MB579290) from a Chrysler dealer and they told me it was not a valid part number. Does anyone have the proper part number. By the way they told me that these are actually made by Mitsubishi.
 
Just did a quick search found a site

https://www.1stchryslerparts.com/part_number.html

searched for part number MB579290 came up with


Part Number Search Results : Collision Catalog
Item Number MSRP Core Price Price
MB579290 $3.50 $0.00 $2.73
Wheels - Wheels - Wheel nut - Aluminum wheel
From 4/1/97 1995 - 2000
Add to Cart Contact Us

MB579290 $3.50 $0.00 $2.73
Wheels - Wheels - Wheel nut - Silver
Silver - 2001-02 2001 - 2002
Add to Cart Contact Us

Part Number Search Results : OEM Catalog
Item Number MSRP Core Price Price
MB579290 $3.50 $0.00 $2.73
NUT,WHEEL
Add to Cart Contact Us


I have never used these people so I know nothing about them.
 
pragmatic said:
Just did a quick search found a site

https://www.1stchryslerparts.com/part_number.html

searched for part number MB579290 came up with


Part Number Search Results : Collision Catalog
Item Number MSRP Core Price Price
MB579290 $3.50 $0.00 $2.73
Wheels - Wheels - Wheel nut - Aluminum wheel
From 4/1/97 1995 - 2000
Add to Cart Contact Us

MB579290 $3.50 $0.00 $2.73
Wheels - Wheels - Wheel nut - Silver
Silver - 2001-02 2001 - 2002
Add to Cart Contact Us

Part Number Search Results : OEM Catalog
Item Number MSRP Core Price Price
MB579290 $3.50 $0.00 $2.73
NUT,WHEEL
Add to Cart Contact Us


I have never used these people so I know nothing about them.


i was just reminded today by the dealer to replace my "nuts" lol just wondering do these wheel nuts look exactly like the oem ones? i really need to replace all of them
 
i bought these Sebring nuts about 1 month ago. About $75 for all 20. They dont look the same, but they fit perfectly and look good. One solid nut!
 
I just finally ran into this dreaded lug nut issue today. I had to have my rear brake pads changed for my inspection and low and behold, I broke a stud, ripped a cap off, stripped the nut down (not the cap), and one came off semi clean, with one more that just won't budge........ALL ON ONE WHEEL!!!! I didn't even bother touching the other wheel. I don't even want to think about it right now. Why would Ford make such an @$$ backwards product? Just venting.
 

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