hmm it shouldnt take more then an hour to R&R Im going to change mine soon, I need to get it out, or get one from a junkyard to verify that is accurate, I dont trust anything I myself have not measured out myself or someone I trust. Cant really depend on vendors when you have some that just want to make a quick buck.
Mike's one size fits all C-head and steering related questions for noobs.
- Thread starter 94m5
- Start date
Rich88LSC
Dedicated LVC Member
Unfortunately true.
Blenderhead
Well-Known LVC Member
I can verify for you that the joint you need is the 36-spline on one side and DD on the other. I used that piece to make the 3-joint steering shaft for my 393-powered 91 cougar.
Blenderhead
Well-Known LVC Member
Actually, now that I think about it, I'm not sure what you will need on the steering shaft side. When I did mine, I basically threw the entire stock shaft in the garbage, and made a new shaft from 3/4DD stock. I know the joint I used was 36 spline on one side and 3/4DD on the other, but I was attaching to 3/4DD shaft and not the stock steering shaft, so I'm not 100% on what you need on the end that will attach to the stock steering shaft. I do remember that on the end where I attached the shaft to the column, I had to flatten out one of the curved sides of the DD shaft and bevel the opposite side for the retaining bolt because the stock shaft at the top was only D-shaped on one side where the bolt went through and held it in place, and it was flat on the opposite side.
Im going to a slavage yard on saturday unless Jaime can chime in if he has any of those joints laying around.
I need to get a new EATC and the cover triangle on the driverside. since mine mystiously disappeared
I need to get a new EATC and the cover triangle on the driverside. since mine mystiously disappeared
Blenderhead
Well-Known LVC Member
Confirmed, it is 3/4DD and 36spline, and you will also need a short length of 3/4DD steering shaft stock, which will slide into the end of the stock steering shaft.
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8404&highlight=flaming+river
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8404&highlight=flaming+river
AbrahamLincoln
Dedicated LVC Member
someone say joint?
94m5
Dmaup's Daddy
I understand this is an old thread, but I figured I would update with some pictures.
This is the unit I decided to go with.
Part numbers
Joint: FR1715DD
Shaft: FR1850
I will only need a few inches of the shaft so I'll have some extra if anyone decides to do this mod.
PICS.
This is the unit I decided to go with.
Part numbers
Joint: FR1715DD
Shaft: FR1850
I will only need a few inches of the shaft so I'll have some extra if anyone decides to do this mod.
PICS.
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
Look up prices stack... pn#'s are right there.... do we need to spoon feed you everything 
94m5
Dmaup's Daddy
OK, here we go.
I am doing this to be put up in the Tech articles thread, so there will be some more pictures.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steering Column "Rag-Joint" replacement.
By 94m5
This article is meant to serve as a general guide to the R&R of a worn out rag joint on the Lincoln MarkVIII, T-bird and Cougar. Other platforms MAY be similar but check your model out for similarities.
Parts needed: Flaming River Part number FR1715DD, and FR1850
To start, Jack the car up, OR place the car on suitable ramps to allow you to get underneath in a safe manner.
Locate the steering shaft and follow it down to where it meets the Rack.
Remove the 2, 13MM headed bolts, and pull the shaft off of the rag joint. This may be a bit difficult at first, but it WILL come off. After removing the shaft you will need to pull the joint off of the splined input shaft for the rack.
After this is done, you will be ready to install the new flaming River steering joint and steering shaft stub. (the only reason you can do this NOW, is because I have provided the print to machine the correct steering stub to make it all work.)
Use blue Loc-Tite for all of the set screws to keep them from vibrating loose, and from there, use common sense to put it all back together. By using Ramps and keeping the wheels locked in place, you will eliminate the chance of re-assembling the shaft off kilter and making the steering wheel off center.
Hope this helps.
Mike (94m5)
I am doing this to be put up in the Tech articles thread, so there will be some more pictures.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steering Column "Rag-Joint" replacement.
By 94m5
This article is meant to serve as a general guide to the R&R of a worn out rag joint on the Lincoln MarkVIII, T-bird and Cougar. Other platforms MAY be similar but check your model out for similarities.
Parts needed: Flaming River Part number FR1715DD, and FR1850
To start, Jack the car up, OR place the car on suitable ramps to allow you to get underneath in a safe manner.
Locate the steering shaft and follow it down to where it meets the Rack.
Remove the 2, 13MM headed bolts, and pull the shaft off of the rag joint. This may be a bit difficult at first, but it WILL come off. After removing the shaft you will need to pull the joint off of the splined input shaft for the rack.
After this is done, you will be ready to install the new flaming River steering joint and steering shaft stub. (the only reason you can do this NOW, is because I have provided the print to machine the correct steering stub to make it all work.)
Use blue Loc-Tite for all of the set screws to keep them from vibrating loose, and from there, use common sense to put it all back together. By using Ramps and keeping the wheels locked in place, you will eliminate the chance of re-assembling the shaft off kilter and making the steering wheel off center.
Hope this helps.
Mike (94m5)
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
Where is the final installed pic?
DLF
Dedicated LVC Member
You should also dimple the DD shaft in the two places that the set screws contact it. I strongly recommend the use of red Loctite on the set screws and lock nuts.
Flaming River also has these available in stainless steel: p/n's FR2515DD and FR1850SS. I've been putting these together for a while now for the Thunderbird SC crowd (info HERE). Using an A4 strength 10mm x 1.5mm x 25mm stainless steel button head bolt will also provide more clearance for headers, if required. I used it to gain header clearance as well as provide room for my relocated oil filter hose fittings on my '98 LSC.
Flaming River also has these available in stainless steel: p/n's FR2515DD and FR1850SS. I've been putting these together for a while now for the Thunderbird SC crowd (info HERE). Using an A4 strength 10mm x 1.5mm x 25mm stainless steel button head bolt will also provide more clearance for headers, if required. I used it to gain header clearance as well as provide room for my relocated oil filter hose fittings on my '98 LSC.
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
How much do you charge for the ready to go kit?
DLF
Dedicated LVC Member
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
And this will bolt right on to my car?
DLF
Dedicated LVC Member
Yes, the picture that I posted is on my '98 LSC.
This will fit all MN-12's and FN-10's, as far as I know. I've installed/sold 9 kits so far, no complaints yet.
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
Now you know why it's called a "rag" joint. LOL
The flaming river joint is a nice mod. Definitely takes the slop out of the steering.
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
I want to do this now
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
Ok!!!!!
94m5
Dmaup's Daddy
Nothing wrong with your setup John..........
Kid..........I'm giving you 2 pieces big enough to do yours AND Stack's. This stainless is ROCK hard so have a good drill bit set. Carbide is your friend.
Kid..........I'm giving you 2 pieces big enough to do yours AND Stack's. This stainless is ROCK hard so have a good drill bit set. Carbide is your friend.