My $400 LS Registry

[joegr]

That's not what you are feeling. Most cars have some amount of passive rear steer to one degree or another.

On many vehicles, when cornering, the rear wheels tend to steer slightly to the outside of a turn, which can reduce stability. The passive steering system uses the lateral forces generated in a turn (through suspension geometry) and the bushings to correct this tendency and steer the wheels slightly to the inside of the corner. This improves the stability of the car, through the turn. This effect is called compliance understeer and it, or its opposite, is present on all suspensions.

 

[BrianDye]

Well I just dropped it off at Firestone, gonna have the wheels balanced, and then they are going to inspect it as well. $10 bucks well spent.

Won't be back before work today, so ill post back tomorrow after I see what they say.

 

[RigsLS]

I try to take it easy on him,Ron......but he's so jealous,he just keeps frothin at the MOUTH. LOL! don-ohio ^)

LOL, so funny and retarded you, talking around the subject with all sorts of distractions in the form of mud slinging.

Back on subject, I read just fine, I can quote you your own post if it will refresh your memory!

The question was, why did you replace plastic cooling system parts on your unpressurized cooling system which you claim will never blow out due to deteriorating heat cycling? Now answer the question and remember the fact that you've in the past and most recently snubbed the LVC community once again by continuing to slander those that are fools for replacing these expensive plastic parts because they don't know any better according to many of your posts.

I can go find them and paste them all in a row for you if you continue to pretend that you didn't post such ... clearly I can read, the hard part is understanding your lies.
Stop clowning around with the garbage rebuttals, provide me some proper feed back, facts and proof on the following,

1) you've replaced some plastics on the cooling system you posted many times over, correct?

2) you claim it's not the heat cycling as it ages but rather pressure alone is the culprit, correct?

Please for our engineering groups and those with a difference in opinion, could you possibly provide us with some real facts this time, last attempt was a couple of useless links that didn't work and showed us some LinkedIn members whom on that page provided ZERO additional information to further strengthen your debate viewpoints.

Please, enlighten us with some proper facts Don, anyone can come on here and make claims of all sorts but if you can't prove the point, we are and remain misled with false information.

Go on ... explain!

 

[BrianDye]

They called back, I was very surprised with the news.

(This was a given, since it sat for so long) Brakes all around
Rear tie rod ends (assuming he meant the toe links)
Shocks all around - he said my rear tires are cupping
Rear sway bar links

He said the front end looked good (even though the boots are cracked on the upper ball joints)

I'll pick her up tomorrow morning and make out a parts list.

 

[RigsLS]

Take it easy on him,he must be able to read.
speed limit signs,,typically only two numbers tho.

" weigh station " , two words in a row.
he comprehends them ok.

And as last time you inject yourself with useless ramblings completely irrelevant to the subject. No surprise, didn't expect anything less or more from you. Could I ask you to stay out of this unless you have some good solid information to contribute with regards to Don's theory of running unpressurized so as not to blow plastic cooling parts? Until then your adding ZERO value, clearly!

BTW, how's your LS .... oh crap pardon me, you don't even f*cking own one. Surely there has to be a town car forum somewhere you can make yourself useful on, no?

 

[RigsLS]

Brian, my apologies for cluttering up your designated thread, I will attempt to take it to a more appropriate and on subject thread shortly.

 

[joegr]

They called back, I was very surprised with the news.

(This was a given, since it sat for so long) Brakes all around
Rear tie rod ends (assuming he meant the toe links)
Shocks all around - he said my rear tires are cupping
Rear sway bar links

He said the front end looked good (even though the boots are cracked on the upper ball joints)

I'll pick her up tomorrow morning and make out a parts list.

Yes, rear tie rod ends = rear toe links
Shocks could be a problem. I've heard that the only aftermarkets available are crap. Let us know what you pick out and how they do. Mine are past due. Note that the cupped tires may have to be replaced too.
The boots on my balls joints have been cracked for a long time (years). So far they still have grease and are still good.
If the other parts don't fix the handling, my bet is on the front lower control arms. It seems to be very hard to tell when they are bad just by examining them still installed in the car. Is it that the car reacts to wind gusts and other cars/trunks going by?

 

[joegr]

Brian, my apologies for cluttering up your designated thread, I will attempt to take it to a more appropriate and on subject thread shortly.

Maybe we could start an unconventional theories thread. I wonder if he would be content to argue there instead of spreading it everywhere? Probably not. That's a shame. We could add some links to some of the great theories that other guy had too.

 

[RigsLS]

They called back, I was very surprised with the news.

(This was a given, since it sat for so long) Brakes all around
Rear tie rod ends (assuming he meant the toe links)
Shocks all around - he said my rear tires are cupping
Rear sway bar links

He said the front end looked good (even though the boots are cracked on the upper ball joints)

I'll pick her up tomorrow morning and make out a parts list.

Brian, please see here, take note of my indulged information on the RimmerBro UK JAG aftermarket rear toe adjust linkages. Cheapest and fast shipping. You can't purchase the Deeza JL607's anymore, out of production was last status.

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/search.php?searchid=1196634

That second link has some Moog part numbers for your rear sway bar stabilizer end links. Rockauto

Note that Deavon, DevilSH recently found some sweet looking JAG aftermarket replacements for those end links, have a look at his thread.

GLWR

EDIT, sorry his find were for front end links instead, I just reread his thread, cool nontheless. Just get the Moogs for the rears.

 

[RigsLS]

Maybe we could start an unconventional theories thread. I wonder if he would be content to argue there instead of spreading it everywhere? Probably not. That's a shame. We could add some links to some of the great theories that other guy had too.

Haha I just LOL'ed large ... your talking about that little fella that wouldnt shut up about his transmission drive cycle relearn procedure, fixes and repairs all related hardware failures. Boy were we dumb not to listen to him ... of course since then we've learned of sending the PCM out for proper repair for solving some trans issues.

He was funny somewhat ... mostly around the time when the ban hammer came down.

Btw, you still got that crow? Didn't eat it i take it?
Can I have it please as I'm about to hand it back to Don in a very informative session.

 

[joegr]

...Btw, you still got that crow? Didn't eat it i take it?
Can I have it please as I'm about to hand it back to Don in a very informative session.

No. There was no reason. I said there were no engineers that agreed with him, and he presented no proof to refute that. Apparently, he somehow thinks that proving engineers exist (I know they do, I am one), somehow proved his argument.

BTW, I once raised a crow. He was very interesting. He could talk (only a few phrases). (For all you PETA folks, he was never caged. He could come and go as he pleased.)

 

[RigsLS]

Ha the crow that learned to speak, now we just need a Don to understand and a Ron to go away.

 

[don-ohio]

Concerning BR's post # 328: BR's eggs erroneous quote:`1) you've replaced some plastics on the cooling system you posted many times over, correct?

2) you claim it's not the heat cycling as it ages but rather pressure alone is the culprit, correct?'

INCORRECT! Your comprehension is just as bad now as ever,BR.LOL! On your point #1 I've only replaced the thermostat housing(that's a single part replaced,not PARTS plural...big diff there). I bought a spare piece that the thermostat housing bolts to and put it in the trunk(52.00). I also have kept the OLD thermostat housing in my trunk which looked fine,since no pressure had been killing it.
On to point #2,BR..........I never claimed the ONLY problem was pressure..........I said it was probably the MAIN culprit. Get your statement of so-called facts straight. don-ohio ^)

 

[RigsLS]

Perfect, I'll get back to you on this. With your own qoutes of course.

In the meantime would you be able to provide a pic of the insides of that thermostat housing so I can have a look to see the brown pitting is present or not.

There shouldn't be any if your claim of unpresurized holds true. But overall we have to wonder why you were replacing any cooling parts at all. Thermostat, thermostat housing and fill cap .... so I can only gather there were some overheating issues perhaps? Or just replacing perfectly good parts for no reason and buying and keeping new parts in the trunk just in case for this unpressurized system of yours which you previously claimed would never rot or blow due to no pressure.

 

[LS4me]

Perfect, I'll get back to you on this. With your own qoutes of course.

In the meantime would you be able to provide a pic of the insides of that thermostat housing so I can have a look to see the brown pitting is present or not.

There shouldn't be any if your claim of unpresurized holds true. But overall we have to wonder why you were replacing any cooling parts at all. Thermostat, thermostat housing and fill cap .... so I can only gather there were some overheating issues perhaps? Or just replacing perfectly good parts for no reason and buying and keeping new parts in the trunk just in case for this unpressurized system of yours which you previously claimed would never rot or blow due to no pressure.

:Bang:Bang:Bang:Bang:Bang:Bang:Bang:Bang:Bang:Bang

 

[don-ohio]

BR's still got that PLURAL `bee in `is bonnet''.LOL! It's A PART,BR..........not PART(S). See the S that differentiates part from parts?

BR's quote:`There shouldn't be any if your claim of unpresurized holds true. But overall we have to wonder why you were replacing any cooling parts at all. Thermostat, thermostat housing and fill cap .... so I can only gather there were some overheating issues perhaps?

The thermostat housing is a plastic part. Putting a new ONE on seemed the best thing since I replaced the thermostat when I put the WORN(shaft had some play,wasn't leaking) water pump on.
As far as the fill cap, just had a bad sealing ring, but I put a new cap on and put the PERFECTLY good one with a new seal into the trunk.
So,yes! I've replaced 2 perfectly good parts, they are still ready to go in the trunk.
You MUST want me to put the old thermostat housing back on? LOL!

NOW HEAR THIS! No PLASTIC cooling part has ever failed on either LS. The lack of pressure cycling (16 psi to vacuum hundreds of times))
I COULD put the old part back on, but since that would be INANE I will not go to the trouble.
don-ohio ^)

 

[BrianDye]

Brian, my apologies for cluttering up your designated thread, I will attempt to take it to a more appropriate and on subject thread shortly.

No worries. Its actually been quite entertaining to follow along while at work

Yes, rear tie rod ends = rear toe links
Shocks could be a problem. I've heard that the only aftermarkets available are crap. Let us know what you pick out and how they do. Mine are past due. Note that the cupped tires may have to be replaced too.
The boots on my balls joints have been cracked for a long time (years). So far they still have grease and are still good.
If the other parts don't fix the handling, my bet is on the front lower control arms. It seems to be very hard to tell when they are bad just by examining them still installed in the car. Is it that the car reacts to wind gusts and other cars/trunks going by?

That eases my mind on the upper ball joints then, maybe they're fine then. (Well, I assume, since they "checked" it all)
Funny thing is, after having the wheels balanced (I think they rotated them too), I haven't been on the highway yet, but the steering is night and day. No more "loose" feeling while driving and hitting bumps and such.
My issue I was complaining about "floating" on the highway is really only happening when its abnormally windy outside. When its not windy, its fine (aside from the vibrations from the unbalanced wheels, and apparent cupping tires)
His price quote made me laugh out loud. Two tires (rear - cupping), shocks, brakes, rear toe links and something else.....over $4000. They wanted around $700 total for brakes. I can get the drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic/CF pad kit all around for less than they wanted just to do the rears. I think he said for the shocks it was like $1800. I just don't feel any signs of worn shocks though. Ive had my share of beaters with 200k miles on probably original shocks, and they were either rock solid stiff, or I was bouncing like a trampoline going down the road. This car does neither.

Brian, please see here, take note of my indulged information on the RimmerBro UK JAG aftermarket rear toe adjust linkages. Cheapest and fast shipping. You can't purchase the Deeza JL607's anymore, out of production was last status.
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/search.php?searchid=1196634
That second link has some Moog part numbers for your rear sway bar stabilizer end links. Rockauto
Note that Deavon, DevilSH recently found some sweet looking JAG aftermarket replacements for those end links, have a look at his thread.
GLWR
EDIT, sorry his find were for front end links instead, I just reread his thread, cool nontheless. Just get the Moogs for the rears.

Thanks, BR, ill check them out now! Gonna try to get an order in today for the rear links at least. I saw those rear end links Devilish installed, those things are sexy! Probably overkill for me, as this is just going to be my Winter "beater" essentially.

Ill probably drive it until it dies though. Love to see how many miles she has left on her. She's running like a champ. Its gonna be something else catastrophic that renders the car dead if I had to guess. Probably trans, or an engine component failing and damaging the engine or something.

*Edit - BR, that link doesn't work. Keeps giving me a forum error when I click it.

 

[BrianDye]

I guess i'm just gonna bite the bullet and order a set of the rear toe links from eBay since it seems like thats the only place that sells them. Question is, how can I tell if they are OEM with the passive steering, or "upgraded" to the non-passive steering? Ill search around, but the search sucks on this board. Never finds what im looking for, but anything in between.

 

[LS4me]

I guess i'm just gonna bite the bullet and order a set of the rear toe links from eBay since it seems like thats the only place that sells them. Question is, how can I tell if they are OEM with the passive steering, or "upgraded" to the non-passive steering? Ill search around, but the search sucks on this board. Never finds what im looking for, but anything in between.

The non-passive link is by no means an "upgrade". Can't think of a manufacturer that isn't trying to do it in a cost effective manner.

That said, here is the correct link... Note the elongated conical shape on the left. The collapsible bushing lives there.

 

[1LoudLS]

lol @ calling making the part as cheap as possible an upgraded part...

 

[RigsLS]

No worries. Its actually been quite entertaining to follow along while at work



That eases my mind on the upper ball joints then, maybe they're fine then. (Well, I assume, since they "checked" it all)
Funny thing is, after having the wheels balanced (I think they rotated them too), I haven't been on the highway yet, but the steering is night and day. No more "loose" feeling while driving and hitting bumps and such.
My issue I was complaining about "floating" on the highway is really only happening when its abnormally windy outside. When its not windy, its fine (aside from the vibrations from the unbalanced wheels, and apparent cupping tires)
His price quote made me laugh out loud. Two tires (rear - cupping), shocks, brakes, rear toe links and something else.....over $4000. They wanted around $700 total for brakes. I can get the drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic/CF pad kit all around for less than they wanted just to do the rears. I think he said for the shocks it was like $1800. I just don't feel any signs of worn shocks though. Ive had my share of beaters with 200k miles on probably original shocks, and they were either rock solid stiff, or I was bouncing like a trampoline going down the road. This car does neither.




Thanks, BR, ill check them out now! Gonna try to get an order in today for the rear links at least. I saw those rear end links Devilish installed, those things are sexy! Probably overkill for me, as this is just going to be my Winter "beater" essentially.

Ill probably drive it until it dies though. Love to see how many miles she has left on her. She's running like a champ. Its gonna be something else catastrophic that renders the car dead if I had to guess. Probably trans, or an engine component failing and damaging the engine or something.

*Edit - BR, that link doesn't work. Keeps giving me a forum error when I click it.

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?99033-rear-tie-rod-ends&highlight=Rimmerbro+UK

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...o-makes-tie-rods-still&highlight=Rimmerbro+UK

The link I gave you previously was a search results link, worked fine yesterday, not so much today for some reason. Wierd.

 

[don-ohio]

Brian,the ones with the compensator in them are better. They allow the toe-in to stay close while overloaded or cornering,etc. don-ohio ^)

 

[LS4me]

Brian,the ones with the compensator in them are better. They allow the toe-in to stay close while overloaded or cornering,etc. don-ohio ^)

Obviously you don't understand the concept of 4-wheel steering; active or passive.

Actually, in your case that's an unpressurized section in the toe link...

 

[BrianDye]

Thanks for the picture LS4me, and thanks for the links BR. Maybe the search results expire after a period of time or something. They work now.

I've read many a'thread where members replaced them with the non-passive steering and commented on how much better the handling is, so sorry if you see different, but in my book that would be an upgrade.


Drove from Toledo today up to Woodhaven, and then Mt. Clemens and back, probably 150 +/- miles round trip, she did great. I left my dashcommand app closed, and kept my eye on the needle instead of being glued and paranoid about the 10-15 degree fluctuations I was panicking about the other day.

Just finished throwing the subs in, good to have bass again. Picked up two JL 12W6's and two JL 500/1 amps. Sounds great, but I definitely have to figure out my rear deck panel, its vibrating like a SOB when theres any amount of bass. (6x9's and center console speakers are unhooked now). I used the 6x9 amp trigger wire to my amp remote inputs. Easiest amp install ive ever done, and it was two at that. Love trunk-mounted batteries.

Forgot to mention, before I said luckily I have quiet suspension or something like that when you guys were talking about squeaks and whatnot. Leaving the girls house I picked the subs up from, her driveway was awful, dips/bumps/holes etc. Im backing up down to the road and man every dip and bump was making the car squeak and creak. Sounded like it was coming from the rear.

 

[joegr]

...I've read many a'thread where members replaced them with the non-passive steering and commented on how much better the handling is, so sorry if you see different, but in my book that would be an upgrade....

They replaced worn out factory parts with new aftermarket parts.
If they had replaced worn out factory parts with new factory parts, they would have seen even more improvement. I've had these cars since new. If you keep everything good, it's like driving on rails around tight turns.