My $400 LS Registry
- Thread starter BrianDye
- Start date
Correct, I did not rev it at all. Reason being is because I didn't know it was necessary in bleeding. I assumed by the wording, the revving was meant to speed up the engine getting up to temperature.
I believe it says hold RPM's between 2500-3000 for 1-2 minutes or until heat blows hot.
Ive been driving the LS and it appears to be in good working order, temp stays between 200-209 depending on heat on/off, AC on/off (Yeah, it was one of those days requiring both heat and air conditioning lol) and idling vs moving.
I did get it bleeding earlier, a steady drip was coming from the bleeder valve. I will be periodically checking over the next couple days.
I believe it says hold RPM's between 2500-3000 for 1-2 minutes or until heat blows hot.
Ive been driving the LS and it appears to be in good working order, temp stays between 200-209 depending on heat on/off, AC on/off (Yeah, it was one of those days requiring both heat and air conditioning lol) and idling vs moving.
I did get it bleeding earlier, a steady drip was coming from the bleeder valve. I will be periodically checking over the next couple days.
I forgot to mention, I also fixed my sunroof drains today. I had wanted to get them done, but didn't have a heat gun (I had the same problem as Joe, I pulled and pulled, but couldn't stretch it far enough 
) nor did I have any hose that would work. I have a pile of old COP's in the garage (The 8 old ones my buddy gave me, along with 6 from my girlfriends fusion) and I popped the rubber boot off which is essentially a really THICK rubber hose, cut it about half length, used a screw hose clamp on either side, oh I also used some waterproof tape along the drain hose because of that weird white stripping it has, I doubt it would've leaked just putting the coil boot over it, as it was REALLY snug, but I put the tape down first to ensure no water would be able to get through those little things, (If you've seen the hose, you know what im talking about) and then the hose clamp for more protection. The job wasn't bad, its just in an awkward position to be in.
Also finally, washed her, cleaned the rear wheels with that chrome cleaner (I can't stress how happy I am with that product, most of that stuff never seems to work as advertised for me), shined the tires up and finally got some "real" pictures. (As in not half-assed quick shots in the driveway in the middle of the night)
No DSLR here, I would love to invest in a nice one but now isn't the time. Just on my iPhone 6 Plus.
Downloaded that "Artisto" app all the youngin's are playing with on FB/IG. Pretty neat filters on some pictures depending on the light.
) nor did I have any hose that would work. I have a pile of old COP's in the garage (The 8 old ones my buddy gave me, along with 6 from my girlfriends fusion) and I popped the rubber boot off which is essentially a really THICK rubber hose, cut it about half length, used a screw hose clamp on either side, oh I also used some waterproof tape along the drain hose because of that weird white stripping it has, I doubt it would've leaked just putting the coil boot over it, as it was REALLY snug, but I put the tape down first to ensure no water would be able to get through those little things, (If you've seen the hose, you know what im talking about) and then the hose clamp for more protection. The job wasn't bad, its just in an awkward position to be in. Also finally, washed her, cleaned the rear wheels with that chrome cleaner (I can't stress how happy I am with that product, most of that stuff never seems to work as advertised for me), shined the tires up and finally got some "real" pictures. (As in not half-assed quick shots in the driveway in the middle of the night)
No DSLR here, I would love to invest in a nice one but now isn't the time. Just on my iPhone 6 Plus.
Downloaded that "Artisto" app all the youngin's are playing with on FB/IG. Pretty neat filters on some pictures depending on the light.
The bigger side closes to the top of the coil fit very snug over the drain hose, and the smaller spark plug end of the coil fit nice and snug over the plastic drain connector. It was a win-win for everyone. Went to the carwash, and made a point to repeatedly spray the roof to see if any water leaked, so far so good. I know I should check my passenger side drain as well, theres no water/wetness that I can see when it rains or at the carwash, but unless its been fixed, its probably ready to pop off as well. Ill probably procrastinate until it does pop off in all honestly. The worst part of that job was the unreasonably short connectors for the overhead console, the left light, and sunroof plug were just barely enough to give me a tiny amount of play, but the passenger side light had NO play at all, I had to go my feel trying to have the console halfway snapped in place while trying to jimmy the connector back in.
So I took the risk of driving it to work. I drove roughly 40ish miles yesterday going through town and back and everything was good, so I figured I'll try today.
I live appx 3 miles from the highway (straight shot maybe 2 stops if the lights catch me) and then roughly 35 miles south on the highway, then 1 mile from the exit ramp to the parking lot at work.
I had my scanner plugged in and my app open the whole time monitoring the temp, it got up to about 197 and stayed there, then eventually 198-199 but it was very steady. I hit some traffic where there's construction, slowing down to about 5-10 mph for 3 minutes maybe, all was good still. Then we started moving and slowed back down, and it was slowly climbing, 205, 207, 210, 212, etc up until it got to about 219. There's no shoulder just two very tight lanes so I was getting extremely nervous. I turned the defroster on high/90 and the temp dropped back down a couple degrees and then we started moving again at speed and it went right back down to around 199-203. Turned the defroster off, it stayed the same.
Got off the exit ramp going to work still, all was well, raised like a degree or two but nothing abnormal. Then hit the second stop light and it started crawling up again. I turned the defroster on and it went back down a decent amount. It had got to like 217ish but was staying steady vs climbing like before. I sat in the parking lot, and turned the AC on to see if anything would change, it went up to about 219 but stayed right there.
Is this normal operation? I don't know what would've happened if I had it turned the defroster on. I couldn't risk finding out, like I said there was no shoulder.
I'm thinking I have an air pocket in the system playing games with me, not wanting to be burped out.
I live appx 3 miles from the highway (straight shot maybe 2 stops if the lights catch me) and then roughly 35 miles south on the highway, then 1 mile from the exit ramp to the parking lot at work.
I had my scanner plugged in and my app open the whole time monitoring the temp, it got up to about 197 and stayed there, then eventually 198-199 but it was very steady. I hit some traffic where there's construction, slowing down to about 5-10 mph for 3 minutes maybe, all was good still. Then we started moving and slowed back down, and it was slowly climbing, 205, 207, 210, 212, etc up until it got to about 219. There's no shoulder just two very tight lanes so I was getting extremely nervous. I turned the defroster on high/90 and the temp dropped back down a couple degrees and then we started moving again at speed and it went right back down to around 199-203. Turned the defroster off, it stayed the same.
Got off the exit ramp going to work still, all was well, raised like a degree or two but nothing abnormal. Then hit the second stop light and it started crawling up again. I turned the defroster on and it went back down a decent amount. It had got to like 217ish but was staying steady vs climbing like before. I sat in the parking lot, and turned the AC on to see if anything would change, it went up to about 219 but stayed right there.
Is this normal operation? I don't know what would've happened if I had it turned the defroster on. I couldn't risk finding out, like I said there was no shoulder.
I'm thinking I have an air pocket in the system playing games with me, not wanting to be burped out.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
I don't think that 219 is a problem. Also, it does have failsafe cooling. Letting the gauge go over the 1/2 mark briefly (to see how far it will go) shouldn't be a problem. It's not at all like many BMWs (one overheat and the engine is shot). You get plenty of warning, and you can travel at up to 50 MPH till you can find a pull-off spot.
Okay thanks for the reassurance Joe, I knew it wasnt "overheating" per say, but the random jump is what had me worried. I wasn't aware that it has the failsafe and is "safe" to travel to a safe place to stop. Good to know!
I work typically until 4am, so I'll post back what happens after my ride home.
I work typically until 4am, so I'll post back what happens after my ride home.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Yep, that's somewhere in the 230s or over.
RigsLS
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Pockets of air is all. Next time, any car for that matter, massage the hoses as you add coolant to the system, hear and feel it fill the voids as it runs down through to the heater core. Observe as it bubbles up gently at the fill neck, the air escapes, you're gently pushing and pulling the coolant against the air pockets thus allowing them to escape. Continue to add a little coolant up until near the top of the fill neck and continue to burp the air out by means of gently squeezing the rubber coolant lines/hoses. Eventually little to none comes out and it's time to just fill it to the top and put the cap on. The Degas bottle should be full and you'd be adding to there. If you've had the rad out or drained the system excessively, once it gets up to operating temperature the thermostat will open and the coolant level will drop fast as it takes in more coolant. This is where you need to ensure it's not going to start sucking air in.
Myself, I prefer to actually start up the engine with the fill neck cap off, a second guy hold RPM to just under 3K continuously. Immediately as it's started it will begin to suck the coolant through, I'd keep adding at the fill neck until it levels out. Then add the cap and close it off, continuing now filling at the degas bottle. Continue to hold higher RPM's while opening and closing the bleeder value. Steady stream should follow.
If you don't get a continuous constant steady stream of coolant coming from the bleeder value is just a matter of time ... if overheating issues persist and still no steady stream from the bleeder value, it's a strong indication there is too much air in the system or more air is allowed to enter in to the closed looped system. Pressure build up is needed to push the air out, if it can not do that it will not expel all the air as it should.
It can be a bit tricky but if you ensure little air in the system as you re-introduce new coolant to it, it should be relative an easy bleed.
Not tooting own horn here but myself, I somehow manage to get them bled instantly on the first go. Mind ya I get another person to hold RPM steady while I complete this process.
GL
Myself, I prefer to actually start up the engine with the fill neck cap off, a second guy hold RPM to just under 3K continuously. Immediately as it's started it will begin to suck the coolant through, I'd keep adding at the fill neck until it levels out. Then add the cap and close it off, continuing now filling at the degas bottle. Continue to hold higher RPM's while opening and closing the bleeder value. Steady stream should follow.
If you don't get a continuous constant steady stream of coolant coming from the bleeder value is just a matter of time ... if overheating issues persist and still no steady stream from the bleeder value, it's a strong indication there is too much air in the system or more air is allowed to enter in to the closed looped system. Pressure build up is needed to push the air out, if it can not do that it will not expel all the air as it should.
It can be a bit tricky but if you ensure little air in the system as you re-introduce new coolant to it, it should be relative an easy bleed.
Not tooting own horn here but myself, I somehow manage to get them bled instantly on the first go. Mind ya I get another person to hold RPM steady while I complete this process.
GL
Next time, I will definitely have a second set of hands with me to hold the throttle while I burp the system.
I drove home tonight, never once got over 199, I did have defrost/floor on low since it was only about 40 something degrees outside.
I got home, and as soon as I turned the car off, I (safely) unscrewed the degas cap. No pressure...
That only makes one person happy, and that's not me. I don't even know where to start looking. I assume that means I have a leak somewhere? It has to be something I replaced, because even with my cracked degas and other broken parts I was still holding pressure.
I drove home tonight, never once got over 199, I did have defrost/floor on low since it was only about 40 something degrees outside.
I got home, and as soon as I turned the car off, I (safely) unscrewed the degas cap. No pressure...
That only makes one person happy, and that's not me. I don't even know where to start looking. I assume that means I have a leak somewhere? It has to be something I replaced, because even with my cracked degas and other broken parts I was still holding pressure.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
At least it seems like it may be a consistent leak, so maybe you can find it. Here's a thought on that. I assume you have an air compressor. Does it have a regulator that you can set down to 15 PSI?
Disconnect the engine bleed hose at the top of the crossover tube assembly (front of engine). Rig up some sort of plug with a piece of old hose (or maybe a coil boot) to plug off the engine air bleed outlet on the crossover tube. Now connect the 15 PSI air hose to the engine bleed hose that is still connected to the degas bottle. Now, listen and look for the leak. (At about 16 PSI, the degas bottle cap will start venting, so keep it below that.)
Disconnect the engine bleed hose at the top of the crossover tube assembly (front of engine). Rig up some sort of plug with a piece of old hose (or maybe a coil boot) to plug off the engine air bleed outlet on the crossover tube. Now connect the 15 PSI air hose to the engine bleed hose that is still connected to the degas bottle. Now, listen and look for the leak. (At about 16 PSI, the degas bottle cap will start venting, so keep it below that.)
*Edit, im reading your post again (When I first read it, I was still half asleep) so you aren't saying put air in where the bleeder is connected to, youre saying plug that off? Im kind of lost. Is the engine air bleed hose the one that comes from the top of the assembly in the front of the engine, and goes to the degas bottle next to the capped off plug?
Awesome idea Joe, would have never thought of that.
So I just did it. Took me forever to try to dial my compressor down to just 15ish PSI, my pressure gauge is so vague down that low, but I got it.
I used my air gun to shoot air in through the bleeder hose, and heres what happens. (Mind you, I don't know how long I should keep putting air in, I was doing it in like 8-15 second bursts) but I heard no leaking from anything I replaced in the front/middle of the engine.
The whole time I am putting air in, the degas bottle is bubbling...that can't be normal, right? When I let off the air, and then put my finger on the hole to "hold" pressure, coolant is trying to squirt out.
*Edit, im reading your post again (When I first read it, I was still half asleep) so you aren't saying put air in where the bleeder is connected to, youre saying plug that off? Im kind of lost. Is the engine air bleed hose the one that comes from the top of the assembly in the front of the engine, and goes to the degas bottle next to the capped off plug?
Awesome idea Joe, would have never thought of that.
So I just did it. Took me forever to try to dial my compressor down to just 15ish PSI, my pressure gauge is so vague down that low, but I got it.
I used my air gun to shoot air in through the bleeder hose, and heres what happens. (Mind you, I don't know how long I should keep putting air in, I was doing it in like 8-15 second bursts) but I heard no leaking from anything I replaced in the front/middle of the engine.
The whole time I am putting air in, the degas bottle is bubbling...that can't be normal, right? When I let off the air, and then put my finger on the hole to "hold" pressure, coolant is trying to squirt out.
*Edit, im reading your post again (When I first read it, I was still half asleep) so you aren't saying put air in where the bleeder is connected to, youre saying plug that off? Im kind of lost. Is the engine air bleed hose the one that comes from the top of the assembly in the front of the engine, and goes to the degas bottle next to the capped off plug?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Sounds like it is pressurizing at least some.
Yes, it should bubble the whole time you are adding air. The engine air bleed hose is connected to a metal tube inside the degas bottle that goes down close to the bottom, so as you pump air in, it will bubble. If the system was sealed, it could hold 15 PSI. This means you should be able to turn the air on (limited to 15 PSI), and after several seconds it should stop flowing (because the system would have equalized to 15 PSI). If this doesn't happen, then air or coolant is going out somewhere.
Check and see if it is the degas cap. (Maybe put a little soapy solution on it so see if it bubbles up.) If it is, then either it isn't sealing, or your air source is at more than 15 PSI (could be inaccurate gauge). If it isn't sealing, try a little (very little) grease on the degas cap seal.
Yes, it should bubble the whole time you are adding air. The engine air bleed hose is connected to a metal tube inside the degas bottle that goes down close to the bottom, so as you pump air in, it will bubble. If the system was sealed, it could hold 15 PSI. This means you should be able to turn the air on (limited to 15 PSI), and after several seconds it should stop flowing (because the system would have equalized to 15 PSI). If this doesn't happen, then air or coolant is going out somewhere.
Check and see if it is the degas cap. (Maybe put a little soapy solution on it so see if it bubbles up.) If it is, then either it isn't sealing, or your air source is at more than 15 PSI (could be inaccurate gauge). If it isn't sealing, try a little (very little) grease on the degas cap seal.
Well, it seems like it was a bad degas cap. For some reason, I still had the old one on there (I'm going to go ahead and assume it was a Dorman cap) it worked with the old degas but not the new one. The heat probably warped it to shape the old degas which was probably a bit screwed up. Don't know why I left that one on there, but I simply pressed the nipple closed with a finger while I held my air gun tightly into the cross engine bleeder hose and there were no leaks anywhere but the degas cap. Screwed the new OEM cap on, and it seemed to hold pressure. I couldn't hear any leaks, and after sitting for 30-+ seconds, I had to let the cap loose so I wouldn't squirt coolant everywhere if I let off the nipple.
Re-did the bleeding process with the new cap, held the throttle to about 2400 RPMs with the help of a jack stand and the bleeding process went fairly well. Still took a bit but I have coolant steadily flowing out of the bleeder valve now.
We shall see the results when I drive to work today...
Thanks again Joe! (And BR for the tips on bleeding!)
Re-did the bleeding process with the new cap, held the throttle to about 2400 RPMs with the help of a jack stand and the bleeding process went fairly well. Still took a bit but I have coolant steadily flowing out of the bleeder valve now.
We shall see the results when I drive to work today...
Thanks again Joe! (And BR for the tips on bleeding!)
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Certainly doesn't look OEM.
No sir.
So i'm trying to think back when I asked about not giving it enough time to pressurize. I think at that time I had thrown this cap on there thinking "Well, I know this cap is good, it was holding pressure" (...with the old tank) and then I never actually gave the new cap a shot. All the driving I did Sunday was with the old cap, and then work and back yesterday was the old cap.
I think I had an excessive amount of air in the system which is why I was having trouble bleeding originally, since 80% of the hoses were disconnected and/or drained, and I wasn't revving the engine like you guys said I had to. So now that i've driven it, its been through a few hot/cold cycles as well has having the heater on, it got most of that stubborn air ready to come out, and this final bleed should've taken care of it. I seriously let it drip/pour out of the bleeder for at least a minute or two straight.
Now I need my ladder back so I can hang some Halloween lights and decorations. Girlfriend wants to put stuff up so bad, but her parents have my ladder and shes in no hurry to go get it.
So i'm trying to think back when I asked about not giving it enough time to pressurize. I think at that time I had thrown this cap on there thinking "Well, I know this cap is good, it was holding pressure" (...with the old tank) and then I never actually gave the new cap a shot. All the driving I did Sunday was with the old cap, and then work and back yesterday was the old cap.
I think I had an excessive amount of air in the system which is why I was having trouble bleeding originally, since 80% of the hoses were disconnected and/or drained, and I wasn't revving the engine like you guys said I had to. So now that i've driven it, its been through a few hot/cold cycles as well has having the heater on, it got most of that stubborn air ready to come out, and this final bleed should've taken care of it. I seriously let it drip/pour out of the bleeder for at least a minute or two straight.
Now I need my ladder back so I can hang some Halloween lights and decorations. Girlfriend wants to put stuff up so bad, but her parents have my ladder and shes in no hurry to go get it.
So I took the day off work, and just left to get some food (More of an excuse to go drive somewhere) all seems well. Stays between 193-200ish, when I was sitting idling in D for 6-7 minutes it got up to like 210, but never really jumped like it did before. (No heat/AC on)
I also had a mini heart attack, I was sitting at a stop light and saw steam/smoke/something white coming from the grille area. Then I remembered I rinsed everything off earlier because the coolant tube was like a squirt gun and got coolant everywhere. Sprayed some degreaser (Nowhere near the coils) but around the front end and sides of the engine and rinsed it off. Sun is behind the clouds, so i'm sure it didn't dry all the way. Popped the hood just to be sure when I got home, and didn't see anything leaking, or any signs of leaks, so i'm sure it was just the water.
Gave her a few WOT runs on a backroad, she shifts great at WOT! I know i'm just pushing a more severe repair back by avoiding it right now (the solenoid), but does anyone think it would be beneficial at this point to drain the trans and refill it with new fluid? Maybe add some of that Lucas treatment? That stuff did wonders on one of my older Explorers a few years back (was shuddering in OD, shifting really slowly sometimes) that stuff miraculously made it shift completely normal again.
Looks like I can get a little threaded nipple that fits that fill plug from Lowe's or a hardware store, 1/8 NPT, and I know I have a fluid transfer pump in the garage somewhere.
I also had a mini heart attack, I was sitting at a stop light and saw steam/smoke/something white coming from the grille area. Then I remembered I rinsed everything off earlier because the coolant tube was like a squirt gun and got coolant everywhere. Sprayed some degreaser (Nowhere near the coils) but around the front end and sides of the engine and rinsed it off. Sun is behind the clouds, so i'm sure it didn't dry all the way. Popped the hood just to be sure when I got home, and didn't see anything leaking, or any signs of leaks, so i'm sure it was just the water.
Gave her a few WOT runs on a backroad, she shifts great at WOT! I know i'm just pushing a more severe repair back by avoiding it right now (the solenoid), but does anyone think it would be beneficial at this point to drain the trans and refill it with new fluid? Maybe add some of that Lucas treatment? That stuff did wonders on one of my older Explorers a few years back (was shuddering in OD, shifting really slowly sometimes) that stuff miraculously made it shift completely normal again.
Looks like I can get a little threaded nipple that fits that fill plug from Lowe's or a hardware store, 1/8 NPT, and I know I have a fluid transfer pump in the garage somewhere.
I completely forgot I had a backup camera. I was getting ready to wire up a relay into the backup light circuit (Remember before I started driving the LS, the backup camera would randomly come on on the radio, and half the time not turn off when I went out of reverse)
I plugged my little harness back in just to make sure the camera still worked (It was a cheapie, im not expecting it to last long. Next one will be nicer, with night vision and the bells and whistles)
As with all the other little weird electrical quirks I was having, it works perfectly fine now. Couldn't get it to activate when I wasn't in reverse, and it turned right back off when I left reverse.
Anybody else running a backup cam with good night vision? Mine has none, so its basically pointless at night, because the reverse lights don't shine bright enough for the camera to pick up. Theres SO many cameras out there.
I plugged my little harness back in just to make sure the camera still worked (It was a cheapie, im not expecting it to last long. Next one will be nicer, with night vision and the bells and whistles)
As with all the other little weird electrical quirks I was having, it works perfectly fine now. Couldn't get it to activate when I wasn't in reverse, and it turned right back off when I left reverse.
Anybody else running a backup cam with good night vision? Mine has none, so its basically pointless at night, because the reverse lights don't shine bright enough for the camera to pick up. Theres SO many cameras out there.
RigsLS
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So we learned (pardon me, most knew this already) that there is a reason why it's designed and meant to run as a pressurized cooling system, cap even says so with respect to the 16psi blow off. Kinda makes you wonder why someone can't get their head around this simple concept. <shakes head>
Kinda makes you wonder why YOU can't get the point that SOME people may not want OR be able to afford to replace all their parts and CAN run Unpressurized like I do at 60% antifreeze to 40% water for the rest of the life of those parts. ALSO makes me wonder why you're so chicken to try it? Afraid you'll learn something,BR? Hmmmmmmm? don-ohio ^)
P.S.,BR. : I'LL be running my 140K miles 04 V6 LS down to FL in 3 weeks,and guess what? down and back,I won't be worrying about blowing all my coolant out on the pavement. LOL!
^)P.S.,BR. : I'LL be running my 140K miles 04 V6 LS down to FL in 3 weeks,and guess what? down and back,I won't be worrying about blowing all my coolant out on the pavement. LOL!
Pressurized or not, i'm always gonna be worried, lol. My Ford Edge overheated on me once, I had the coolant-water ratio WAY off somehow, simple fix though. I never drove that thing again not thinking about it overheating. One eye on the road, one eye on the temp gauge.
I have bad anxiety though, thats why. I drive good choices in cars to be worried about them breaking down, or needing some kind of repair, right?
I have bad anxiety though, thats why. I drive good choices in cars to be worried about them breaking down, or needing some kind of repair, right?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Oddly enough, I've never worried about overheating, as my LSes never have. One is close to 200K miles, and the other close to 160K miles. I'll probably be driving back up the mountains in January, and I don't have to worry about it at all as my cooling systems are fully up to spec. (And, I don't carry any spare parts around.)