My $400 LS Registry

So I've had the LS up on jackstands for the past week or so. Had a little patch of PS fluid which I knew would happen because it's leaking, but then I also noticed a thin watery liquid towards the front passenger side. Now I know why it was low on coolant.

Gonna try and trace the leak down, just glancing at it it's dropping from the bottom of one of two rubber hoses right next to the radiator. If it's just a hose, that'd be awesome.

Waiting for dash kit #3 to get here, just got my reverse cam wires ran, future amp RCAs and the radio delay wire. Gonna trace that down and connect that and the reverse cam power wires.
 
BrianDye said:
...Go If it's just a hose, that'd be awesome...
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Nope, Unless it is the upper radiator hose assembly. If so, it will be the plastic part in the middle. Otherwise, it will be the DCCV or the radiator itself. If it is the radiator, it will be the front of the passenger side tank, across from where the hot water from the upper hose comes in.

I realize you will likely wait to find out for yourself, but if it is a plastic part, the rest of them (all of them) will go very soon too. Better to replace them all at once.
 
Ill check the DCCV and radiator when I get back home. Had to run out to the hardware store and then grab some food. The upper assembly would make sense because it sat for so long but still had a majority of the coolant in it, and wasn't leaking on my garage floor.

If any of the plastic system parts are bad, I will be ordering the whole system (degas bottle, all plastic parts, hoses and new belt)

Ill have to look at some radiator replacement threads, mine has quite a few bent up fins in the front you can see through the grille. Even if its not bad, if its not over priced, and ridiculous to change, ill probably throw a replacement in as well.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe there's still some Jaguar 4.0 metal cooling parts that can be used on the LS. Also there's a hose that runs in the engine valley and it's a bear to get. Had to take mine to the dealer when it was leaking because I couldn't get it.


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BrianDye said:
...Ill have to look at some radiator replacement threads, mine has quite a few bent up fins in the front you can see through the grille. Even if its not bad, if its not over priced, and ridiculous to change, ill probably throw a replacement in as well.
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It's not easy like some cars, but it's not horrible either. You can get it out the bottom with the front of the car on ramps or jack stands.

I don't think you are seeing any of the radiator fins from the front of the car (through the grille). The AC condenser is in front of the radiator (it is actually attached to the radiator) and completely covers it. Between the radiator and the condenser is the combination transmission and power steering cooler. It covers about half way up, between the two.

I have low cost aftermarket radiators in both of mine. So far, so good...

http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x33012.htm~gen~ref.htm
 
Hm, thanks for that info, its the AC condenser fins that are pretty thrashed up then. I was tied up getting this radio and backup cam done today, that was....fun...

Tomorrow is dedicated to figuring out the PS leak, and the coolant leak.
 
So I bought a much better jack today that lifts higher and has rapid pump. Oh man I love this thing. Anyways, got the LS a bit higher, also picked up a creeper. Makes working under there a dream.

I pulled the air deflector(?) off the bottom, I cannot see anything leaking. The only thing that looked a bit wet was the bottom pass side of the radiator by the drain petcock, but before the drain. It could've just been grease or something, but nothing was dripping the whole time I was down there. I moved this little rubber radiator cover thing from the top and man the radiator was filthy. I got my compressor and blew enough crud out of there to start a bonfire, same with the bottom when I pulled the air deflector for the radiators off. I don't know if this might just be the placebo effect or whatever, but I swear the AC is colder than its ever been now.

I stayed under there cleaning a bit trying to see any indications of leaks or traces of coolant flowing out, but couldn't. Took it off the jack stands finally, AC cranking, let it idle until it was up to temp (probably 4-5 minutes, its about 80 outside), and then went for the longest drive yet. Still just in my neighborhood, but no overheating. Got back in the driveway, no dripping. Let it sit and idle still with the AC on for a good 10-15 minutes (Its really not loud at idle with the cats on. Its loud, but nothing out of the ordinary compared to some of the big trucks or old vans around here.

That radiator replacement doesn't look bad at all. My Explorer is a whole different story. Those are notorious for bad radiators and it seems to be a day long project to swap it out. A ton of people run lower PSI radiator caps as a fix instead. I haven't had that issue, knock on wood.
 
BrianDye said:
... lifts higher and has rapid pump. Oh man I love this thing. Anyways, got the LS a bit higher, also picked up a creeper. Makes working under there a dream ...
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Dude man, every single time your under a car, do not always rely on jack and or stand(s). Never get under a car that's up on a Jack alone, Major safety issues ... try and always have extra items under the car, like a wheel, stomp of large wood, concrete blocks. Anything you can find extra around the garage that would hold up if something happened and cars comes off the stands.

I'll use the jack, then stand(s), I'll lower the jack a little to ensure it's resting on the stands then give the jack a half pump or so back up.
THEN ... I grab a large stump of wood that I use to chop wood on and push it underneath the car towards one side.

I'm sure you know all of this but I just can't stress it enough ... always take the time to ensure there are multiple points of insurances in place, Jacks & stands alone is not something ever guaranteed.

A dude many years back in our neighborhood was working half underneath his car and it came of the stand and crushed him mid section, no one found him for several hours, apparently a passerby walking her dog noticed a car on an angle with legs sticking out from underneath it.

He died !!!


PLEASE .... SAFETY ALWAYS !!!

Jacks and stands scare the crap out of me.

ALWAYS push extra stuff underneath towards either side that you'll be working on. This is where paranoia pays off.

Lot of crap coming out of China these days. Stands can give out or give way.
Get stands with locking pins but don't strictly rely on stands alone as the car can give and move, fall off the stands and hit the ground.
 
I appreciate your concern man, I should've added the fact that I have a couple large old wheels with tires on them that I throw one or two under the sides. I can't go under a car without being insanely paranoid. I have 6 jack stands, I keep one in each jack point as normal, and then the two extras I put near where im working, like I had them both under that front middle jacking point, as well as the jack like you do, I gave it about 1/4 pump just so the jack itself is holding as well. I didn't this time since I had the wheels, but ill usually also throw my wheel ramps under the front wheels as well. They're too tall to just drive the LS on :(

Before I even go under, I give the car a hefty push from either side to mock wrenching on some stuck bolts or something. I'd obviously much rather have it fall off some stands while I push it to see how steady/sturdy it is vs me be under it wrenching.

Im an over-thinking, over-paranoid guy. When I said it was "comfortable under there with the creeper" I meant it was nice to be able to slide in and out vs doing some kind of man-worm action on the rough concrete.


PS. You'll be happy to know ill be getting a new battery soon as well, properly vented for the LS as well, lol. This battery isn't holding its charge very well, dropping under 12v in a couple days of sitting. I can get Optima batteries for about $50 IIRC through work, does the LS like them? Im pretty sure those are all sealed though, no vent hose plug on them?
 
BrianDye said:
... I can get Optima batteries for about $50 IIRC through work, does the LS like them? Im pretty sure those are all sealed though, no vent hose plug on them?
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No. They do have a vent, but no provided way to connect it to the vent connection in the trunk. One or two folks on here have bought some plumbing parts and glued them on to accomplish this, but I am not too trusting of glue long term for this. We even have a thread on here where an official Optima rep joined in and stated that Optima is not recommended for the LS.

Frankly, the Motorcraft batteries for this car are at a good price and work very well. I just get them. I couldn't have gotten another battery for any cheaper. I didn't expect the local dealer to be reasonable on anything, but they were on this.

BTW, all lead-acid and gel-cell batteries will vent under adverse situations (over charge, short circuit, ...). The only other choices would be for them to explode, or for them to be in a super strong metal case that could hold a few thousand PSI of hydrogen pressure.
 
joegr said:
... Frankly, the motorcraft batteries for this car are at a good price and work very well. I just get them ...
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bingo!

+ all trunk mount batteries need to vent to the outside of the occupant vehicle.

it's also an insurances technicality
 
Motorcraft it is.

Radiator is the culprit leaking. That same spot I said was moist yesterday. It's weird though, it leaks randomly. Car was parked for days without leaks, and after I topped the coolant up yesterday it had not leaked and didn't leak until late today sometime.

Going to get it registered and plated tomorrow.

Joe, you mentioned above you've had good results with the low cost replacements. RockAuto has 5 of them, ranging from $59 to about $105. Any particular brand I should look for? As much as id love to bite the bullet and order the Ultra-Power, I struggle from the "too good to be true" syndrome. I cheaped out on CV axles in a past vehicle and they were junk.

Yr2jlVk.png



Update
Doing some googling of ultra-power and the part number brings up another radiator on Amazon by Spectra with the same model number but two letters added. Reviews are all saying the radiator was a perfect fit and has had zero issues with 4+ months of use so far. Hmm...
 
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joegr said:
No. They do have a vent, but no provided way to connect it to the vent connection in the trunk. One or two folks on here have bought some plumbing parts and glued them on to accomplish this, but I am not too trusting of glue long term for this. We even have a thread on here where an official Optima rep joined in and stated that Optima is not recommended for the LS.

Frankly, the Motorcraft batteries for this car are at a good price and work very well. I just get them. I couldn't have gotten another battery for any cheaper. I didn't expect the local dealer to be reasonable on anything, but they were on this.

BTW, all lead-acid and gel-cell batteries will vent under adverse situations (over charge, short circuit, ...). The only other choices would be for them to explode, or for them to be in a super strong metal case that could hold a few thousand PSI of hydrogen pressure.
Click to expand...

The AGM battery in my Bimmer is also vented to the atmosphere...
 
Typically on Rockauto you'd want to go with the brand offerings that have the little red hearts beside them ... these would be considered the "preferred" choice and most "popular".

Usually a good bet those are the ones others have had good luck with.
 
BigRigLS said:
Typically on Rockauto you'd want to go with the brand offerings that have the little red hearts beside them ... these would be considered the "preferred" choice and most "popular".

Usually a good bet those are the ones others have had good luck with.
Click to expand...

..... except when it comes to coils

RA coil favorites.jpg

RA coil favorites.jpg
 
Radiator will be here Tuesday, but in the meantime im doing some EGR searching on the forum. After driving it the other day, I pulled the codes again just to see if anymore appeared, or any went away, same ones relating to the EGR but I haven't had time to check vacuum hoses. I have a very smooth idle though, so I doubt I have a vacuum leak, at least from what I've read. Might try the smoke in the brake booster hose trick though. I don't smoke, but I enjoy a cigar occasionally, so this might just be an occasion:D

Also, BigRig sent me some links to his exhaust clips which I saw photos of in another thread. I had wondered what the car would sound like with a muffler in place of the third cat, and straight pipe to the back (with nice tips) and what the drone would be like. (I like drone, oddly) I will most likely be going back to muffler man this Friday and getting something similar done. Don't know which muffler I want to go with though.
 
The vacuum hose assembly that connects to the EGR is 3W4Z-9E498-BA. Some of them will crack and crumble if you just look at them the wrong way.
Odds are good that you will need a new EGR assembly (3W4Z-9D475-AC). Don't go aftermarket on this. I don't know anyone who has, that it worked for.
 
Seems like all Ford EGR's have that same issue. Thats very common on the Explorer's too.

Im not even gonna look at mine, it won't hurt to have a whole new EGR put on. I looked on RA, Motorcraft is $91, the aftermarket brands are only $5-$10 cheaper anyways. Just out of curiosity, do the EGR's typically ever go bad, or is it 99% the tubes?

And any idea on that P1000 code? It it just from resetting the engine light and it not having enough drive time to fully check all the systems or something? I drove the car for a good 8 or 9 minutes, and then had it idling for 20 or so, so it had ran for quite awhile.
 
Yes, P1000 just means that the battery was disconnected or the codes otherwise recently reset.

So far, those EGR codes seem to be solved only by replacing the EGR assembly.
 
Gotcha. As usual, thanks for sharing your vast LS knowledge. Gonna go search around a few sites to see who has the best price on the Motorcraft EGR and order one.

Safe to assume the hose mentioned above does NOT come with a replacement EGR? Do I also need to order a gasket? Rockauto part doesnt say if its included with the Motorcraft unit.

Gonna search around and see if theres any write ups or anything on switching it. I know on the Explorers, they are a complete PITA. Hard to get to, rusted to hell and back, etc.


*Edit:
Just went out there before leaving for work, the EGR is right there in front. Easy as hell to get to. I checked my vacuum lines connecting to it, that whole line set appears to be newer, as the hoses are not brittle or worn at all. No cracks as far as I could see. Easily disconnected as well. EGR on the other hand would appear to be the original one. Bolts came off easily, but that line with the nut is where im gonna see some busted knuckles and cuss words. Gonna put the bolts back in before I touch that, but still seems like its going to be a pain.
 
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