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driller

driller

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Well, the 4.30s are finally in. 8)

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I took the opportunity of access to the lift to install front suspension braces...

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and new brakes.

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It was not without incident however. After 2 rounds of breaking in the new gears, I proceeded on the long trek home. About 50 miles out a terrible vibration started from the rear. Nursing the ailing car back to the shop, I was convinced it wasn't the new gears but perhaps a failing wheel bearing. Once finally back to the shop, it didn't take long to find the culprit. Apparently one of the rear rotors was not drilled/chamfered properly not allowing the rotor to seat on the hub! As a matter of fact, the wheel studs were forced slightly back from mounting the tire and two had broken from the stress. After chamfering the rotor backside for clearance and installing new studs, the brake assembly was replaced and the wheel installed without any problems.

Also, here's pics of the new and improved 40K GVRW tranny cooler.

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Notice the SCP front braces. Did you consider the pinion brace or the cover brace for the rear, with 4:30s and slicks they would seem to be a good idea.

Edit: I think I see the cover brace.
 
Where did you get the rotors? It seems the manufacturer did you a disservice.
 
The front braces are the original Kenny Brown Performance issue I received from someone whose Mark VIII had an untimely demise. I have had them over a year, just never got around to installing them. I have the rear cover brace and a torsion brace. I had to modify the torsion brace to clear the dual 2-1/2" exhaust. I have an RSTB waiting to install as well. I am still needing a pinion brace and rear subframe connectors. I had a Cobra pinion brace modified to fit the Mark but it did not clear my exhaust.

The rotors and pads were from someone who sold their Mark VIII before they were installed, so I do not know where they exactly came from. They had "KVR" on the pads, but no identification on the rotors.
 
The rotors and pads were from someone who sold their Mark VIII before they were installed, so I do not know where they exactly came from. They had "KVR" on the pads, but no identification on the rotors.[/QUOTE]

i always see cross drilled rotors for the mark on the auction site.... prolly explains the quality maybe?

i unno...
 
looks like you had a weekend like ours Driller changed the rearend and installed the dennys shaft in the 98. hope to see you in Mich. this weekend. waiting for a spider valve for the 94. but will bring the 98 and 95 up . have a save and good trip. just when you think you have it right things will jump and bite you. glad you made it home without worst happening, the cooler looks damm nice. have you noticed any differance in temp over the old one. are are you running a temp on the trans. jd
 
After test fitting the location and procurring the rivet supplies to fasten the cooler to the bumper cover, it occurred to me I may not want to drill the holes in the bumper cover until it was shown the location would be functionally adequate for proper cooling. So armed with wire ties and sections of spare hose for 'padding', I secured the cooler in place without actually drilling holes in the bumper cover.

  • During the heat wave, beating on the car hard barely made over 190*.
  • Normal highway temp 150*.
  • Again, in the heat of lately, idle in traffic at about 180*.

So far it looks like it has no problem functioning there. I have a 180* thermal bypass valve yet to install if needed and the temp sensor is immediately after the cooler recording the coolest temps.
 
JP, Motive or Ford Racing 4.30's? You should have got 4.56's as 4.10's to 4.30's is not that big of a performance increase. You might get 1-2 tenths...
 
My trans temp bastard gauge reads 150deg during a hot pursuit, and 125 in daily cruising. It used to be 180 and 150 with the t-stat installed. Weird. But then again, my cooler is right behind the grille.
 
They are Motive gears. I've heard FRPP gears are now manufactured by Motive.

The new setup has a Detroit Truetrac vs. the traction-lok limited slip with the 4.10s.

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I don't expect a quantum leap in performance. I'm hoping for high 1.8s in the sixty foot and a better position on the HP curve at the top end of the track. I don't expect more than a tenth or two along with perhaps a bit more trap speed.

My trans temp bastard gauge reads 150deg during a hot pursuit, and 125 in daily cruising. It used to be 180 and 150 with the t-stat installed. Weird. But then again, my cooler is right behind the grille.
Click to expand...

What converter do you have?
 
Thats a nice pc.

Why the front braces for a car made to drag? The stiffness they provide are more for handling. Not to mention the added front weight.

Edit: I guess they probably don't weight to much and the improved chassis stiffness for the motor tonque vs. handling is what you looking for.
 
02LSE96LSC91SE84TC said:
Thats a nice pc.

Why the front braces for a car made to drag? The stiffness they provide are more for handling. Not to mention the added front weight.

Edit: I guess they probably don't weight to much and the improved chassis stiffness for the motor tonque vs. handling is what you looking for.
Click to expand...

Don't you love answering your own questions? :lol:
 
driller said:
Don't you love answering your own questions? :lol:
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Yeah, if I was a little quicker I wouldn't post em... that be boring.

How much do you guess the 4 pcs weigh?

Someone should make a strut tower to firewall brace, might work better, or at least complete the geometry. As the motor torques up, the braces from below can only be so effective. Just thinking aloud here...
 
02LSE96LSC91SE84TC said:
How much do you guess the 4 pcs weigh?
Click to expand...

Can't be more than a pound or so each. I guess 4-6 pounds total?

FWIW, I've never seen any front strut tower brace for these cars.
 
they cant be that hard to fab. just some thick wall tubing, and some fabd' up flanges, all triangulated...
 
Wow, thats nothing, my bad. Pretty light weight stuff.

I just looked at my MarkVIII, its in the garage with the cowl and wiper assembly out. It'd be a pain to make em.
 
m_maker said:
Mach 1 TC. You think the triple PI creates that much more heat ?
Click to expand...

I definitely saw more heat with the triple PI converter. Biggest reason I went with the bigger cooler.
 
Yeah, 25 degs avg difference sounds about right. As long as it's under 200 it'll be fine.

Is Alan really making braces now ? I need to get in touch with him.
 
m_maker said:
Is Alan really making braces now ? I need to get in touch with him.
Click to expand...

I think he makes them for SCP? He was working on a batch of the Lower Engine Control Brace (the piece to the rear that ties the K-member to the car body) and looking to do the front subframe cradle piece(the piece that ties the front and rear of the K-member together).
 
02LSE96LSC91SE84TC said:
Wow, thats nothing, my bad. Pretty light weight stuff.

I just looked at my MarkVIII, its in the garage with the cowl and wiper assembly out. It'd be a pain to make em.
Click to expand...


i havent looked yet.... whats the issue? hood clearence?
 
4.6powa said:
i havent looked yet.... whats the issue? hood clearence?
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Nope. Attaching to the firewall would be the challenge. The windshield kinda overhangs and you couldn't tie to that and not bust windshields. Below that its got a spot you could tie to below the cowl plastic and wiper garbage, but then your kinda low and have alot of obsticles. Brake booster/master cylinder on the one side and a/c dryer and lines on the other. and that low you'd be working around the cam covers. It take some work to make a good design.
 
m_maker said:
My trans temp bastard gauge reads 150deg during a hot pursuit, and 125 in daily cruising. It used to be 180 and 150 with the t-stat installed. Weird. But then again, my cooler is right behind the grille.
Click to expand...

Put it back in. Your transmission will probably like it better running up to temp.

Good stuff as usual driller.
 
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