New sway bar bushings

LeaSr77 said:
Yea that is waaaaaay too much for that. I only paid $71 and my mechanic didn't have any problems.
Click to expand...

Once I confirm my hypothesis (later today) and remove those DCCV bracket bolts and hopefully slide that bracket upwards? I'm sending a letter to the dealerships Manager and Regional Ford Manager/Headquarters to let them know that either A) The local Ford dealership is willfully trying to gouge customers by willfully going against the Ford Service DVD procedures for this repair and requiring MORE labor in order to get higher profit from the job by stating that the subframe "must" be dropped or B)The local Ford dealership is clueless, and doesn't know how to perform the repair based on the Ford Service DVD procedure. Neither is acceptable.
 
Does anybody know the sizes of polyurethane bushing for the different LS models? Front and Rear?
00-02 V8/V6 and 03-06 V8/V6.

I know there are other threads on this subject but if we can have the listing here is would make it the one stop for all the information.
 
i can only confirm that the 30mm poly bushing is a perfect fit for an 02 V8 Sport Package.
 
Success. Following the official procedure worked fine. My initial troubles were my fault, as I misinterpreted Fords official procedure and instead, loosened the DCCV itself from its bracket..vs loosening the bolts that hold the DCCV bracket itself. Removing those two 10mm bolts shown in the pic above allows the bracket AND the DCCV to move away from the head of the 13mm bushing bracket bolt, allowing you to loosen and remove that 13mm bolt. I couldnt really get to that 13mm bolt from under the car, so I removed my air intake and used two 10 inch socket extensions and a wobble connector to angle down between the radiator and engine block to get to the 13mm bushing bracket bolt. Used my left hand to reach down behind the passenger side headlight to shift the DCCV assembly out of the way so that I could get the socket onto that bolt. Took some finagling, but got it. Sidenote: If the alternator were removed, the passenger side would be a LOT easier. The alternator and its pulley can really get in the way. The alternator out would free up a lot of room for this job. Havent test drove the car yet. Still in the garage up on jacks. Tired. Will finish up tomorrow.
 
lseguy said:
This pic helps me, and might make me take a second stab at that passenger side bushing. Shows the bolt and the nut that need to be moved to get that DCCV out of the way enough to get to that front passenger side bushing bracket bolt...
Click to expand...

FYI..do NOT loosen the nut/bolt in this pic. Loosening these allows the DCCV to lift up, but the DCCV bracket stays put, and the bracket prevents access to the forward passenger side bushing bracket bolt.
 
Test drove today. Front end knocking and creaking (especially for the first few miles when cold) is now 100% gone. The old bushings didn't visually appear to be in THAT bad of a shape. But they were 100% dry with no lube inside, and the passenger side was deteriorated somewhat. (drivers side LOOKED fine, but obviously was not). I can understand the creaking, but what causes the harsh knocking sound when the bushing wears out?
 
So my car rattles a lot when going over bumpy roads since I put the lowering springs in but doesn't creak or anything. I do have the sport so I know the suspension is harder, but what would you guys recommend replacing?
 
Was the noise there BEFORE the springs? If not, I'd first ensure the springs are properly seated within their perches..
 
question. Did anyone who installed the energy suspension bushings use the included washers? I didn't, and a "clunk" began occurring on the passnger side when making right hand turns. Climbed under the car today and used a longer socket and got another full turn on both of the rearward bushing bolts. Quick test drive shows that seemed to fix the "clunk"..but wonder if I should have used the included washers.
 
Quick test drive shows that seemed to fix the "clunk"..but wonder if I should have used the included washers.
Click to expand...
It doesn't matter enough to take them apart again. But you should get your hands on a torque wrench and make sure those nuts are tightened to the proper spec. which is 41 Ft-lbs according to the service manual.
 
I meant "longer ratchet" not "longer socket" btw.

I agree on the torque wrench. I certainly could get one on the rearward bolts, but could never get one on the most forward bolts, considering I had to use two 10 inch extensions and a wobble socket.
 
Just did all this too...

I have a 2001 non sport V8, I couldn't wait to order the correct millimeter diameter Energy bushing off the internet, so I went to autozone and picked up the closest they had. I got a 1 1/8" diameter set. So far after 3 weeks, still like brand new. I've got a feeling that a 1 1/16" diameter would be a tighter fit, but so far so good. And I did use the included washers and greased the bushings beforehand.

On a quick side note; the way I figured out what bolts to take out for that damn bracket, was to check a wrecked ls in the junkyard. Without the bumper or fans or anything really on the front, it was plain as day what needed to come off.

I did a lot of research on LVC before doing this job, and thanks to everyone that contributed something to this repair. Like a brand new car! Again!
So for the record - 01 V8 Non-Sport - 1 1/8" dia. for sure, or possibly 1 1/16" dia
 
No... That could be ball joints, rod ends, bad rack (unlikely), simple alignment issues.
 
how can you tell if your LS is a sport ...? and does anyone have the size for a 2002 v6?
 
I can tell you just by your avatar that your LS is a non sport unless you did a non sport bumper conversion for some strange reason. There are a couple different ways to tell, mostly by front and rear bumpers. If you have the chrome strips it's a non sport, if not it's a sport. There is also the LSE of course which is basically a sport with a different body kit.
 
OMG these things are a pain, supposedly months ago you couldn't pick up the bushing, you had to get the whole bar from the dealer which is 170.00 and 11 hours in labor because you have to lift the engine and drop the tranny, i think it has the same bushing as a mercury cougar, i had looked it up and they both had the same bushing and it saved me so much time and money!
 
hey having the same clunking issue what is the size spec for a 2003 v6 ls bushings
 
Hey bought these energy suspension bushing and was just wondering when you instaaled them were you able to put the grease fittings on after or did you bother. Thanks
 
pending autozone having these 30mm bushings in stock I am doing them this weekend... after replacing both lower joints and inspecting the uppers (both are fine) and still having a clunk... could be the bushings.
 
Anything on the rear sway bar bushings sizes from Sport LS ??
 
JfEdS3UsS said:
Anything on the rear sway bar bushings sizes from Sport LS ??
Click to expand...

Yea, everyone talking about the front, what about the rear? Might as well supply the size for the non-sport too because it will definitely be asked.
 
well... ended up going to Summit Racing in tallmadge, oh... 15.85 for the 30mm set.

hopefully ill get some time in my brother in law's heated garage this weekend (nice coated floors, fully lit, tons of outlets...)

and i really hope this solves the clunk issue... both lower joints replaced, hoping the uppers are still good...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 258 (members: 0, guests: 258)
Back
Top