New to LVC 2006 Lincoln LS cooling questions.

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Rjc198006LS

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I searched the tech blogs but didn't find a post that was similar to the situation I am having. I have a 06 LS V8 with 130k miles, I had over heating issues and read the blogs and replaced the degas bottle. Then the thermostat housing was replaced. I ran the car and it isn't overheating but I am losing coolant. I bled the system, replaced the coolant and drove approx. 3 miles and came back into my drive way and opened the hood. Coolant was coming from the overflow tube on the expansion tank. can anyone tell me what would cause this? I appreciate any help with this frustrating issue.
 
Not a mech, but when I did mine I followed the procedures listed here in another thread. That was adding coolant at the Tstat housing, and didnt get any overflow. If you put a bunch in the reservoir, that might be why it expanded and ran out. I would think after a handful of trips the overflow would stop though.
 
huggy said:
i have a 16 76 code for my hvac on 02 ls
Click to expand...

You really should start your own thread for this, instead of hijacking someone else's unrelated thread.

This is the code for battery voltage out of range. It's only a problem if it is persistent.
Start a new thread with what you actual problem is.
 
huggy said:
sorry im new but i have no heat
Click to expand...

On the forum page, click "+ Post New Thread"

No-heat is not related to your code.
Also, please indicate V8 or V6. How long it's had no heat, and what you have done.
 
I actually had all those parts replaced, maybe 2 1/2 - 3 years ago. Is that normal for all those parts to go bad that fast?

I used that exact thread to bleed the car.
 
Rjc198006LS said:
I actually had all those parts replaced, maybe 2 1/2 - 3 years ago. Is that normal for all those parts to go bad that fast?

I used that exact thread to bleed the car.
Click to expand...

No, if you truly replaced every one of those, and not just most. (Did you really replace the water outlet pipe? Throttle body heater hoses? Upper and lower radiator hoses?)
Check the radiator (passenger side tank, near the top, facing forward).
Check the DCCV.
 
Yes sir, it came out to 700ish in parts alone.

Ok i will definitely check those parts, i appreciate the quick response and help. Ill post an update as soon as I can.
 
You did get the Motorcraft degas bottle, and not the Dorman (or similar brand) one?
 
The one I replaced it with was a Dorman, the one previous was a Motorcraft that only lasted 10 months, and I lost the receipt and the dealer wouldn't honor the warranty without it. I did the bleed process again and coolant never came out the bleeder hose and the air never got warm on defrost. Here are some pics that show the leaks, i don't know how to attach a video. Leak 1.jpgleak 2.jpgLeak.jpg[video]Libraries\Videos[/video]

Leak 1.jpg


leak 2.jpg


Leak.jpg
 
Factory cap doesn't fit Dorman. Many have had the Dorman bottles to fail in less than six month. Your symptoms fit with that. Many have had the Motorcraft bottle to last six years or more.
 
I did ordered a new cap, and then put it on and ran the car for approx 10 minutes, the degas bottle remained full, some coolant came out of the overflow tube but it stayed within the fill lines. I saw a puddle of coolant up near the front right and couldn't see anything from the top, so i looked under and I assume its coming from this tube. Can someone tell me which one this is so i can replace it?
leak3.jpgleak4.jpg

leak3.jpg


leak4.jpg
 
I assume that you are talking about the lower radiator hose. (And I assume that by "front right", you really mean front left [driver's side].) Do be aware that the leak could be coming from above the hose and dripping down to there. Also, please go back to post #3 in this thread. (http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...stions&p=2037409442&viewfull=1#post2037409442)
You can keep replacing each of the other parts at one or two a week, or you could just go ahead and get it all over with.
 
You hafe to replace the elbow where it attaches to the block thats where mine was leaking I just change it all when I had it apart.
 
I didn't do all the parts at once, and it was a fun couple of weeks when other parts broke from just trying to replace the one bad part, and then another part would break as soon as it was back together... yep, fun couple of weeks.
 
Makes it stronger in one area, weakens in anothers.
 
$700 seems cheap for all new dealer parts... so I suspect some were aftermarket. I had $900 in everything... and that didn't include radiator, DCCV, heater core, heater hoses, or radiator. Those will be round 2 when the time comes.

So yes... to replace ALL cooling system parts with original equipment parts, (not aftermarket), will cost close to $1500... and a long hard labor of love, (i'm not looking forward to the heater core).
 
Rjc198006LS said:
The one I replaced it with was a Dorman, the one previous was a Motorcraft that only lasted 10 months, and I lost the receipt and the dealer wouldn't honor the warranty without it. I did the bleed process again and coolant never came out the bleeder hose and the air never got warm on defrost. Here are some pics that show the leaks, i don't know how to attach a video.View attachment 828476700[video]Libraries\Videos[/video]
Click to expand...

Why is your bleed hose attached to the degas bottle where the return line should be be clamped? Where is the return line attached? If its the other barb on the bottle, that's just a blank off where the bleed hose should hang from. The metal is in there to support the small plastic barb from the force of a hose clamp.
 
02LincLS said:
... The metal is in there to support the small plastic barb from the force of a hose clamp.
Click to expand...

Actually, the metal is a tube that runs most of the way to the bottom of the bottle, on the inside. There any air or steam in the engine cooling circuit should bubble out and not get sucked back in (when it cools down).
 
Yeah it works quite well. Except when its a dorman and the thing rots out and flops around in the tank.
 
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