Official Stack Murder Mark Progress Thread!!!

DieselDan said:
Maybe also use the old door trim as a template for the new peice of metal... just thinking out loud...
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Thing is it's flexible, when it's laid out it's not the same shape as it is on the door..
And the shape isn't going to be the same either, the factory molding protrudes in center to assist in doors running into it, which he doesn't want in the filler piece.. he wants it more smooth

And he's working with a curve in every direction, the piece he needs to make for a filler piece has a curve up/down, side/side. Gonna take some patience for sure.
 
kustomizingkid said:
I haven't quite figured out the door yet... there are some complications with it...
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You are going to have to do it in stages section it up, after that it will take a lot of filler, which is better then warping the whole door.

The old skool guys would have used led.

Its going to be a time eater for sure.
 
ford nut said:
You are going to have to do it in stages section it up, after that it will take a lot of filler, which is better then warping the whole door.
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What if he makes one strip full length, forms the radius, then slices it every inch or so from top edge to center- for the whole length. Then do the same on the bottom half, except have the slices run in the middles of the top slices, then it would be flexible to fit the [forward to rear] curve of the door... and the offset slices should prevent it from buckling, and be easier to smooth out with mud.. right?

Just a thought after you said that
 
poniesviii said:
What if he makes one strip full length, forms the radius, then slices it every inch or so from top edge to center- for the whole length. Then do the same on the bottom half, except have the slices run in the middles of the top slices, then it would be flexible to fit the [forward to rear] curve of the door... and the offset slices should prevent it from buckling, and be easier to smooth out with mud.. right?

Just a thought after you said that
Click to expand...

There are a couple big problems with trying to do this with one big piece, getting the shape is just one.

The LSC trim goes all the way threw the door seam, its a main part of the door stucture.
Cutting that would be a major mistake, unless you just work in that area.
Even then trying to get the door right in that area is going to be a major PITA.

The door is very weak all around the LSC trim, it bends and just gives too much.
I think if Brandon cut it out they way the rear was sectioned would make the door a scrap pile test door in a hurry.

There in no doubt he has ran this threw his head a hundred times already.
 
ford nut said:
There are a couple big problems with trying to do this with one big piece, getting the shape is just one.

The LSC trim goes all the way threw the door seam, its a main part of the door stucture.
Cutting that would be a major mistake, unless you just work in that area.
Even then trying to get the door right in that area is going to be a major PITA.

The door is very weak all around the LSC trim, it bends and just gives too much.
I think if Brandon cut it out they way the rear was sectioned would make the door a scrap pile test door in a hurry.

There in no doubt he has ran this threw his head a hundred times already.
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Right, agreed completely,..

What I mean, is not to cut any of the door out at all, and do what I mentioned with his fabbed filler metal.. If you keep this in mind and re-read my last post, what do you think about it?

I never thought he would cut any of the car to perform this in the first place, really. Not that it's necessarily ''wrong''..
 
I am being a bit modest. I've planned to do this prior to my next re-paint, and have decided on this process long ago. Just don't want to 'tell' anybody how to do it. Lol

Always open to a better idea though.
 
Just pull off the stock trim and fill the indentation with mud. :D
 
poniesviii said:
Thing is it's flexible, when it's laid out it's not the same shape as it is on the door..
And the shape isn't going to be the same either, the factory molding protrudes in center to assist in doors running into it, which he doesn't want in the filler piece.. he wants it more smooth

And he's working with a curve in every direction, the piece he needs to make for a filler piece has a curve up/down, side/side. Gonna take some patience for sure.
Click to expand...

I just mean the outside shape of the filler panel, you would have to use the english wheel to round it out a bit, it would take some time but it would just keep you from removing that channel that is already in the door, most likely for strength in the first place.
 
poniesviii said:
I am being a bit modest. I've planned to do this prior to my next re-paint, and have decided on this process long ago. Just don't want to 'tell' anybody how to do it. Lol
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Cool I am sure there is more then one way to do it.
I think he cut it out to flush it up the best he could hoping to use less filler.


The thing that sucks is, its a ton of work only a few will every appreciate.
 
ford nut said:
Cool I am sure there is more then one way to do it.
I think he cut it out to flush it up the best he could hoping to use less filler.


The thing that sucks is, its a ton of work only a few will ever appreciate.
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Really? I don't know I guess, maybe I'm just one of the few lol

I would notice in a heartbeat, whether being familiar with a mark or not, I'd be like "what did the factory do for side molding if you have it looking like this??" So yeah, you're prob right, most people prob just not even notice.

But subtleties are always cool to me :cool:
 
The quarter shave took me ~12 hours...

Here is the problem with the door...

1: The inner structure where the door meets the quarter panel is intended for the moulding... if I don't fix that there is no way to make the door gap look right without an ass load of filler... What is going to to have to happen is I will have to cut out part of the inner structure and make a new one...

2: The bottom line of the moulding channel has a pipe running behind it... no access behind it, so after welding I can't do anything if it comes out warped or messed up...

3: It's a huge flat panel... it going to warp after I weld on it, no way around that... just going to have to fix it the best I can after welding...

If I were to make a filler and weld it above the channel if it came out warped or too low or anything I'm stuck... only thing left to do is start pilling on the filler until it looks good...
 
Everyone that looks at this thread will no exactly how much time went into it all... lol...

I don't care about time... it takes a lot of it to do good work... but it is well well worth it...
 
kustomizingkid said:
The quarter shave took me ~12 hours...

Here is the problem with the door...

1: The inner structure where the door meets the quarter panel is intended for the moulding... if I don't fix that there is no way to make the door gap look right without an ass load of filler... What is going to to have to happen is I will have to cut out part of the inner structure and make a new one...


2: The bottom line of the moulding channel has a pipe running behind it... no access behind it, so after welding I can't do anything if it comes out warped or messed up...


3: It's a huge flat panel... it going to warp after I weld on it, no way around that... just going to have to fix it the best I can after welding...

If I were to make a filler and weld it above the channel if it came out warped or too low or anything I'm stuck... only thing left to do is start pilling on the filler until it looks good...
Click to expand...

Fuggit. Glue in the blue high density foam, give it a basic shape, and throw on some kitty hair, then get out the cheese grater Lol
 
poniesviii said:
Really? I don't know I guess, maybe I'm just one of the few lol

I would notice in a heartbeat, whether being familiar with a mark or not, I'd be like "what did the factory do for side molding if you have it looking like this??" So yeah, you're prob right, most people prob just not even notice.

But subtleties are always cool to me :cool:
Click to expand...

Take this.
attachment.jpg


Wait 9 months and asked people what was different, a lot would miss the trim was gone.
Long standing members would know...but the noobs they would miss it I bet.


kustomizingkid said:
The quarter shave took me ~12 hours...
Click to expand...
Your rusty!
You will get faster by the time its what you call done. :)

kustomizingkid said:
Here is the problem with the door...

1: The inner structure where the door meets the quarter panel is intended for the moulding... if I don't fix that there is no way to make the door gap look right without an ass load of filler... What is going to to have to happen is I will have to cut out part of the inner structure and make a new one...
Click to expand...
Correct that is what I was saying..... section it.
kustomizingkid said:
2: The bottom line of the moulding channel has a pipe running behind it... no access behind it, so after welding I can't do anything if it comes out warped or messed up...

3: It's a huge flat panel... it going to warp after I weld on it, no way around that... just going to have to fix it the best I can after welding...

If I were to make a filler and weld it above the channel if it came out warped or too low or anything I'm stuck... only thing left to do is start pilling on the filler until it looks good..
Click to expand...

Maybe work on the other rear panel first, more practice time.
It will come out great, just take your time.
 
Like I said earlier... metal work is NOT like riding a bike... and the other stuff I have done was on old cars... so much thicker metal...
 
kustomizingkid said:
Like I said earlier... metal work is NOT like riding a bike... and the other stuff I have done was on old cars... so much thicker metal...
Click to expand...

Lol sure it is! But I did it 60+ hours a week every week for about 5 years I guess, and every thing from 20 gauge to 2" T1. Every time I touch the stuff I feel like I left off yesterday.

I hear ya though, thin stuff is always fun!

And good point Fordnut. Alot of people prob wouldn't recall noticing anything..
 
actually tig welding body panels especially something that thin would cause more warping then mig welding.....tig creates more heat in one concentrated area.....
 
oh listen to wyotech fabricator tubesteak. i would stick weld it, turn the heat way up and use some old damp 7018 rod. stick welding body panels FTW.
 
jamie97lsc said:
oh listen to wyotech fabricator tubesteak. i would stick weld it, turn the heat way up and use some old damp 7018 rod. stick welding body panels FTW.
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Well ya don't completelely understand your post jamie how else wood yuo do it of course you wood stick weld it and you wood have to turn your heet up or you wood get no penitrashon

On another note the guy's right.
 
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