Oil Change?

Abbens said:
I get mine changed at the service station every 3k miles.
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Make sure they are changing your filter.... If I took a Mark in I would put a mark on the old filter and make sure they showed it to me, and I would check to see if a new filter has been put on...
 
Motocraft fl-820s filter
Mobil 1 synthetic 5w-20 (or 5w-30 whichever ford calls for I forget)

Both are at Wal-Mart and it costs usually 30 bucks.
 
When my change oil message turns on the oil still looks new & not dark at all. I change it every other message, even then the oil is nice & clean. I use Motorcraft semi synthetic 5w20 & I ONLY use a genuine motorcraft filter. The other filters mentioned are fine filters as well. Although I have had no first hand bad experiences with fram, I stay clear of them just in case.

The other oil that I really like is Mobile 1, That's all that I ever used on any of my past turbo charged engines.
 
Good/bad, blah blah. If you change oil and filter on a regular basis, you're good. My mark has 100k on it since my purchase, with literally 3 oil changes, synthetic oil used only, beaten alot, and still doesn't leak or burn any.

Of course, I'm waiting for the excuse to build a motor. But, I can't seem to even make up an excuse.
 
Why doesn't everybody just get Amsoil, install a bypass system and call it a day. Thats got to be the best of everything. That solves the filter location problem toooooo.
 
As far as I an concerned amsoil is over rated, hard to find & too expensive. If it were that great you would think it would be availible at the local store.

I do agree with the other poster about just keeping the oil & filter changed when you should & there shouldn't be any problems.
 
kustomizingkid said:
Make sure they are changing your filter.... If I took a Mark in I would put a mark on the old filter and make sure they showed it to me, and I would check to see if a new filter has been put on...
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One thing I do is for every car I have ever owned is I watch all repairs. and if I cant they wont do it.
 
Lux said:
Whats with the 0w30?
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If you're asking why I'm using it, it's because it light and protects the engine.

I see no logical reason to use a heavy oil, when a lighter one will still protect the engine just fine; it's just wasting my gas.

It's gonna have to get pretty d@mn cold for that oil's viscosity to fall down to zero.

...at those temperatures, I probably wouldn't be out driving anyway.
 
JMiles_T said:
If you're asking why I'm using it, it's because it light and protects the engine.

I see no logical reason to use a heavy oil, when a lighter one will still protect the engine just fine; it's just wasting my gas.

It's gonna have to get pretty d@mn cold for that oil's viscosity to fall down to zero.

...at those temperatures, I probably wouldn't be out driving anyway.
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I was asking why you were using it and i'm sorry to tell you but your wrong with your thinking.

The W of a oil viscoisty is the viscoisty while that oil is cold, the -xx number is the measure of the oil viscosity while hot.

With that said.

Sure, for the first 5 minutes with 0w30 you may have more "protection" over that 5w20 but as soon as it warms up to operating tempature you now have a 30 weight oil, which is obviously thicker then the 5w20 ford calls for. Obviously you dont drive around with the car cold all the time...lol, so as soon as it warms up and registered on that needle aka "the rest of the time" you indeed are wasting gas over using a 5w20 weight oil...because you are now running a 30 weight instead of 20. So your not helping anything, if anything, your lacking the protection you need when cold as zero is very thin and overdoing it while hot (using 30 instead of 20)

I see no logical reason to use a heavy oil, when a lighter one will still protect the engine just fine; it's just wasting my gas.
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Niether do i, but your doing it. Not trying to come off as a d*ck i'm just trying to explain it to you.

You mentioned it would be rather cold for it to reach zero and you wouldnt be driving in those conditions anyway...well zero oil is still a zero oil if its cold or not, it doesnt "get down to zero" it IS zero, until its warms up to opereating temp and then it becomes a 30 weight, in your case, which is thicker then you need...which is exactly what your trying to avoid.

Think about it.
 
turborich said:
As far as I an concerned amsoil is over rated, hard to find & too expensive. If it were that great you would think it would be availible at the local store.
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right on. rotella is the best thing you can put into a motor anyway, and its cheap. MANY engine builders use it and many performance part companies also recomened it.
 
Rotella is made by Shell and is mostly used in diseal applications. It is too thick for a modular motor in my opinion. I'm running Mobil 1 0w-30 right now with a Motorcraft oil filter.
 
5w-30 in all my drivers anymore except the turbo, it gets 10w-30-lately they all get Mobile One, oil and filters. I might try 5w-20 this winter except I usually park it in December until late March or April, so I doubt I am gonna change to 5w-20 now. The anti-drainback valves in better filters fixes the timing chain noises on startup, so no more Frams-BTW, I did use Frams for years on most of my cars and never had a problem with anything, either using conventional or synthetic, so I agree with the post about changing oil and filter religiously-that is really the most important thing, I rarely go over 3000 miles on any car without changing oil and filter. Am a firm believer in full synthetic and that is all I have put in any car in the past 10 years.

Today, I changed the oil in a 2005 Nissan Sentra today for a friend of my wife, and it takes only 2 and 7/8 quarts with a filter!!! I put in Mobile One with a Purolator filter, how the HELL can an engineer design a crankcase to hold less than 3 quarts...the oil I put in is 'guaranteed' to last 15,000 miles, I told her to change it at 5,000-$30 is cheap insurance IMO.
 
Rotella is a straight up Diesal oil...

We put it in my friends beat to piss 89 Chevy work truck to try and clean some of the sludge out of the motor...
 
Lux said:
I was asking why you were using it and i'm sorry to tell you but your wrong with your thinking.

The W of a oil viscoisty is the viscoisty while that oil is cold, the -xx number is the measure of the oil viscosity while hot.
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All those things I know already...
Lux said:
...well zero oil is still a zero oil if its cold or not, it doesnt "get down to zero" it IS zero, until its warms up to opereating temp and then it becomes a 30 weight, in your case, which is thicker then you need...which is exactly what your trying to avoid.

Think about it.
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:confused:

The 0w is the viscosity at 0 degrees F, so please help me to understand why you think its viscosity would be 0 when it's 60 degrees outside?

As for the 30 weight, you gave no basis in your previous posts for me to judge what you consider a reasonable oil weight. You asked "what's with the 0w30?" and I answered. I've seen plenty of people on here claiming to run 40 weight oil and then some, and for all I knew you were among them. Now, you say 30w is thicker than I need, but given the # of miles on my vehicle, I'd say sticking with a 30 weight (op. temp) oil is the safer bet.
 
98LSC32V said:
Rotella is made by Shell and is mostly used in diseal applications. It is too thick for a modular motor in my opinion. I'm running Mobil 1 0w-30 right now with a Motorcraft oil filter.
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they make it in a 5w40 syn now. i have it in the lincoln and the miata right now.


i think lux is a little confused on how oil works. when its cold, its thick, when it warms up, it gets thiner. for example a 10w 30: when cold it acts like a COLD 5 weight, and when warm, a WARM 30 weight. so when it is warmed up, its about the same "thickness" as when it was cold. but if it was straight 10 or straight 30, it would be either too thick or too thin when warm vs cold.
 
OK, but 0w-30 is not a straight 30 weight oil. It gives the best protection you can buy on a cold start when most engine wear occurs. The Mobil 1 0w-40 is also a great oil that I have used but a little too thick when the engine is warmed up in my opinion (for the 4.6 DOHC).
 
bryantaylor said:
they make it in a 5w40 syn now. i have it in the lincoln and the miata right now.


i think lux is a little confused on how oil works. when its cold, its thick, when it warms up, it gets thiner. for example a 10w 30: when cold it acts like a COLD 5 weight, and when warm, a WARM 30 weight. so when it is warmed up, its about the same "thickness" as when it was cold. but if it was straight 10 or straight 30, it would be either too thick or too thin when warm vs cold.
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Oil gets thicker as it warms up not thinner.
 
I know what your saying and what you think i'm trying to say.

Lets agree on one thing - 50 weight is thicker then 20 weight, right?

Lets see if i can explain as theres alot more to this conversation i didnt feel like getting into with viscosity and measurements.

Oil does get "thinner" as it warms up, yes true. However, Keep in mind we are talking about a multiviscosity oil.

Multiviscosity and lard are two entire different animals.

Straight weight oil and multiviscosity are also completley different.

Theres is more then one way they measure viscosity.

Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base(5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.
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http://auto.howstuffworks.com/frame...m&url=http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

Read that, basically to sum it up the oil thins out to a thicker weight oil, yes it gets thinner but in the process it gets thicker as the polymers (which is what makes it multiviscosity) unwind to make the oil thicker.

Crazy, right?

Thats multiviscosity in a nutshell.
 
I should have worded it better but i was waiting on customers as i'm at work and they keep showing up. lol

As oil warms up (ie gets to operating temperature) the oil itself "thins out" and by doign so the polymers unwind to become a "thicker" WEIGHT oil. :eek:
 
bryantaylor said:
thats clif notes status right there
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It gets way more in depth when you start talking viscosity and temperatures, as i said earlier 0w whatever is 0weight when its zero outside, when the temp is 60 its still considered a zero weight, however it may be different 7 weight 5 weight, who knows, thats splitting hairs and i dont have an exact weight vs temperature chart or anything, but simple point is the prefix is cold ((yes measured at zero degrees usually (ie extreme temp so they get a good flow rate for colder climates) but this doesnt mean its a 30 weight all other times))

Its a 30 weight only when it reaches operating temp of 210 degrees or 100 degrees celsius as this is what temp normal op. temperature is and this is when they measure it. Now if you wanna go real in depth are we talking about kinematic viscosity or the sus viscosity (saybolt universal... i admit i had to google that one, couldnt remember what the hell sus was) lol the kinematic is measured based on then density (ie thickness relative to heat iirc) the sus viscosity is measured by flow.

I work for napa and i'm here all by myself (couldnt believe how busy we got earlier on a sunday) but i do this stuff for a living. Yes, i'm younger (23) but i've been getting asked the craziest :q:q:q:q by these guys that are 60 and older working and doing the most crazy absurd mind boggling sh*t lol since i was 16..so i try and have a little idea to what i'm doing. Hell, we havent even gotten into shear and stress rates yet lol
 
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