Overheating

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DrWulf

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I have a 2006 Lincoln LS. I've had issues with the coolant system/overheating since i got the car (almost). I finally got the leaks to stop but the car keeps overheating. It doesnt over heat to the point qhere the needle goes all the way to red and it cools off relatively quick (within 1-2 minutes). Also, it only heats up when i drive it hard or when im driving at highway speeds for a period of time. Regular city driving is fine. A couple hard pulls its fine. Also, i had the thermostat, coolant reservoir, hoses, and water pump fixed. I also flushed the system.

Im not sure what could be causing the car to overheat. Maybe a head gasket? Radiator was fine last it was checked (past couple months). I had a trusted master mechanic perform most of the work as well as look over then entire system. Any help/advice will be appreciated. Thank you.

Edit: the car will overheat all the way if i keep driving it hard. I usually turn the heat on max and chill out to get the car to cool down. The needle usually only moves a couple millimeters when heating up but on occasion is does heat up a bit more.

And yes, there is sufficient coolant in the system. Ive also tried bleeding the system so at least most of the time i know theres no air trapped in the system. I will add there is a bit more water in the system than coolant. Maybe 70:30 water to coolant ratio. Thats jus because i needed to put something in there unless i wanted to be stuck on the side of the road due to a coolant leak thats fixed now.
 
I almost positive you've got an air pocket still in your system. These cars are notorious for being hard to bleed
 
HRLNKN said:
I almost positive you've got an air pocket still in your system. These cars are notorious for being hard to bleed
Click to expand...
Okay, ill see what i can do about bleeding it. I might jus take it back to the mechanic if i cant do it to see if he can.
 
Good idea. Also, make sure you're using the correct coolant & mix ratio. Strangely enough it does make a difference
 
Ive been using the typical autozone universal coolant. I jus read that, apparently, these cars arent meant to use that. Ford recommends Motorcraft gold. Im gonna try that see if that helps.
 
The coolant matters most with regards to mixing in the system. If you've had all the coolant replaced by the universal stuff, you should be ok. Just remember, mixing is very bad (OATS & non OATS). It'll make gunk in your system. Just Google for pics of the carnage. Avoid that BS at all costs
 
Seriously, I'm thinking you still got some air in your system. The fact that it takes you driving it hard to bring it out is what I'm going on
 
Motorcraft Gold or Zerex G-05 would be best. While it is possible that you still have some air in the system... the 70/30 mix is probably the issue.

A 50/50 mix provides boil over protection to 265 degrees.

Your 70/30 mix is only good to around 230... which is where the LS runs during NORMAL driving.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Motorcraft Gold or Zerex G-05 would be best. While it is possible that you still have some air in the system... the 70/30 mix is probably the issue.

A 50/50 mix provides boil over protection to 265 degrees.

Your 70/30 mix is only good to around 230... which is where the LS runs during NORMAL driving.
Click to expand...
Yea i was thinking that was playing a major role. Im replacing the coolant today with a proper 50/50 mix of Zerex G 05
 
So you'll have the air locking issue.
Simply cycling the engine temp from hot to cold then refill the coolant reservoir is how I did it. (Cycling several times that is.)
 
MKVIIILSC said:
So you'll have the air locking issue.
Simply cycling the engine temp from hot to cold then refill the coolant reservoir is how I did it. (Cycling several times that is.)
Click to expand...
I flushed my system again, filled with Zerex g-05 (properly diluted this time lol) and bled my system properly. Car hasnt overheated since. But lucky me.... my starter jus went bad smh
 
For sure, your fix starts with a 50/50 mix of the gold coolant. When you go to bleed the system, have the front end of your car pointing downhill. That way the air bleed screw is is in a high position relative to the rest of the coolant system and that allows the air to escape much easier. I do this every time I bleed my system and I never have any trapped air problems.
 
I had plumbed the the bleed line into the degas tank to bleed the air out only requiring opening the cap and seeing the fluid level lower. Problem with that is the plastic tank wasn't made to be in the circuit thermally. It failed thru cracking. I had sourced a China made aluminum degas tanks ~$100. Canton can make one thru investigating. I have a radiator bring made by Don Davis radiators around $1100 to handle the heat due in Jan-Feb.
 
Robert Crain said:
When you go to bleed the system, have the front end of your car pointing downhill.
Click to expand...

Or back up on ramps if you aren't blessed with hilly land.

When I bleed, I cut a water bottle in half and place the capped half under the bleed. Did I miss something in my years of LS ownership, am I supposed to be letting the bleed line drip into the degas tank? I have always thought the bleed location was awkwardly placed and prone to making a mess without my bottle technique. But the manual says to put the cap on so I assumed I was doing it correctly.

Either way - 50/50 Gold + proper bleeding is essential. I usually go through 2-3 cold starts to operating temp cycles before I even drive the car after a coolant repair.
 
For roadside bleeds which happened often, a cap twist is much easier. When I get my radiator installed pictures will follow.
 
Hey, everyone another problem with the cooling system. My thermostat housing cracked again. At this point im not sure what could be causing my cooling system to keep failing. Mechanic says the head gasket could be blown and thats why other parts are failing. Is this true? The only two things that havent been replaced are the head gaskets and the radiatior. Could the radiator going bad cause other parts to break?
 
Not the head gasket. That's the number one miss-diagnosed LS problem, or close to it. The symptoms make it look like that, but it isn't.
Are you using new OEM parts?
Are you installing according to the factory service manual (correct torque and sequence)?
Are you following the filling and bleeding procedure to the letter?

I wouldn't be surprised at all if you need a new radiator. Look at the top front of the passenger side tank for signs of a crack. Still, that won't be the cause of other failures.
If your system really is going over pressure (I don't think it is), then the only part to be at fault would be the cap on the degas tank. That's where the pressure regulator is.

Also, check your engine mounts. Maybe the engine is moving around too much and damaging the parts.
 
Ultraviolet coolant dye and the glasses to see the leak is one method to diagnose where the leak is located. After an air bleed from system, i would place white poster board under the engine. If the there is a leak you can trace it. An example, the throttle body preheat hose that routes to the engine center Vee
 
joegr said:
Not the head gasket. That's the number one miss-diagnosed LS problem, or close to it. The symptoms make it look like that, but it isn't.
Are you using new OEM parts?
Are you installing according to the factory service manual (correct torque and sequence)?
Are you following the filling and bleeding procedure to the letter?

I wouldn't be surprised at all if you need a new radiator. Look at the top front of the passenger side tank for signs of a crack. Still, that won't be the cause of other failures.
If your system really is going over pressure (I don't think it is), then the only part to be at fault would be the cap on the degas tank. That's where the pressure regulator is.

Also, check your engine mounts. Maybe the engine is moving around too much and damaging the parts.
Click to expand...
All OEM parts are being used and installed properly. Ive also Bled the system to the letter. I do believe i may need a new Degas cap. I went to check my coolant level a week or so ago and it was very loose yet no coolant was coming out. I will likely get the radiator replaced as well. Hopefully those two will end my coolant problems. I will say, its become a headache and ive been seriously considering selling it and getting a new car.
 
joegr said:
Not the head gasket. That's the number one miss-diagnosed LS problem, or close to it. The symptoms make it look like that, but it isn't.
Are you using new OEM parts?
Are you installing according to the factory service manual (correct torque and sequence)?
Are you following the filling and bleeding procedure to the letter?

I wouldn't be surprised at all if you need a new radiator. Look at the top front of the passenger side tank for signs of a crack. Still, that won't be the cause of other failures.
If your system really is going over pressure (I don't think it is), then the only part to be at fault would be the cap on the degas tank. That's where the pressure regulator is.

Also, check your engine mounts. Maybe the engine is moving around too much and damaging the parts.
Click to expand...
 
joegr said:
Not the head gasket. That's the number one miss-diagnosed LS problem, or close to it. The symptoms make it look like that, but it isn't.
Are you using new OEM parts?
Are you installing according to the factory service manual (correct torque and sequence)?
Are you following the filling and bleeding procedure to the letter?

I wouldn't be surprised at all if you need a new radiator. Look at the top front of the passenger side tank for signs of a crack. Still, that won't be the cause of other failures.
If your system really is going over pressure (I don't think it is), then the only part to be at fault would be the cap on the degas tank. That's where the pressure regulator is.

Also, check your engine mounts. Maybe the engine is moving around too much and damaging the parts.
Click to expand...
I will be checking the mounts. I never thought about thats as a potential problem but it makes a ton of sense
 
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