p0352 Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction

and looking at your coils thats odd... i just did another check and red/brown is on positive side with green on negative side of the coil.... so i'd have to reverse all of those to get a better spark?
 
MMAFIGHTER121 said:
and looking at your coils thats odd... i just did another check and red/brown is on positive side with green on negative side of the coil.... so i'd have to reverse all of those to get a better spark?
Click to expand...

That is correct. I'm going to do a writeup on it probably today. I post a link to it here when I do it.
 
Excellent! It'll be nice to get the most out of the aftermarket coild - more spark = m0ar P0w3rZ! How hard is it? Looks like if I wanted to really speed it I could cut them and switch them..
 
Ill wait for the writeup.. I've got a seperated shoulder and I still have to do wheel bearings on it..
 
I just went outside for another quick look (its 30 degrees still here) there's a yellow bit that pops off then I don't know what else is needed to get the wires out. I thought maybe once the yellow part was off it'd just pull out but it doesn't.
 
There may be a detent that needs to be pushed in.. So your going to need a very small screwdriver.. How does the yellow piece come off?
 
I posted a ROUGH draft of a writeup for how to switch the wires on my other post.

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?p=791865#post791865

Here's a copy and paste of it.

THIS IS A ROUGH DRAFT VERSION OF PART ONE OF THREE I'LL BE DOING

Here is what you start with and it should look like when done

CIMG_2011-03-12-153103.jpg


I placed a flat head screw driver under the end where the retaining clip is, pry up the red piece trying not to break it

CIMG_2011-03-12-153116.jpg


It will come out part way then stop again. Continue to pry it out, maybe using a figure to help pull the other side up. If you break this clip this step is where you will do it so take you time. If you break it, it's not the end of the world, it will still work.

CIMG_2011-03-12-153132.jpg


Here's the piece when it's out.

CIMG_2011-03-12-153153.jpg


Now the wire connectors are still being held in there by another very small clip. I used a probe from a multi meter(because the multi-meter was broke) to push the clips up. Anything small with a point will work. A flathead screwdriver meant for glasses would be great. The clip is about a quarter of the way in and is hard to see. You will need a flashlight to see it.

Push the tip of the probe(or screwdriver, whatever fits) towards the metal part of the connector and slid it back until you feel it hit the plastic tab then pry the tab away from the metal part of the connector while pulling the wire back out of the connector.

CIMG_2011-03-12-153225.jpg


Once the connectors are out, all you have to do is switch them(left to right, right to left). Don't twist them as the will only go in one way.

CIMG_2011-03-12-153309.jpg


Put the red(in my case) piece back in and reconnect the coil. Verify that the + side of the coil connector matches with the green wire.
CIMG_2011-03-12-153636.jpg
 
FASTLLS said:
There may be a detent that needs to be pushed in.. So your going to need a very small screwdriver.. How does the yellow piece come off?
Click to expand...

Yes there is, I think I called it a tab. a very small flathead screwdriver like for glasses would be perfect.
 
i have a slightly different plug it seems.. in a V8 I snapped some pictures just gotta figure out how to get the uploaded.
 
ok! mine just had a little yellow tab at the bottom instead of that red ring, otherwise it was all the same. took me maybe 20 minutes (i had a dentist's pick for the black tabs under the prongs) and she turned right over, haven't really gotten a shot to take it for a spin yet but so far i see no issues!
 
FASTLLS said:
Gottcha.. Nice write up.. I will probably be using either the MSDs or Garantellis.. I'm not sure on which ones yet..
Click to expand...

I have Granatelli coils, thought they were bad but turns out aren't. I'd sell you them cheap and offer against DOA.

MMAFIGHTER121 said:
ok! mine just had a little yellow tab at the bottom instead of that red ring, otherwise it was all the same. took me maybe 20 minutes (i had a dentist's pick for the black tabs under the prongs) and she turned right over, haven't really gotten a shot to take it for a spin yet but so far i see no issues!
Click to expand...

Dentist pick sounds perfect! Be sure to report back!
 
Took it out for a few runs last night, then today a few more. It definitely starts up quicker and smoother and idles quieter and it seems to have a smoother pull as I speed up, I don't know if I can say it has more power than before because it was running so awful before, but it definitely cranks right over now, before it would take a long time to turn. So this is a definite +1 for all the accel users out there!
 
or granatelli or MSDs or whatever mustang performance coil you opt for..
should definitely get a sticky in the High-perf or tech articles section as "aftermarket coil wiring" or... something.
 
MMAFIGHTER121 said:
or granatelli or MSDs or whatever mustang performance coil you opt for..
should definitely get a sticky in the High-perf or tech articles section as "aftermarket coil wiring" or... something.
Click to expand...

I'm going to do a full writeup for V6 users, but some of the information, such as the wiring will cross to the v8 users. I'm just so glad I finally figured it out and am glad that all my hard work it has helped you and will help others. A Tech article is a good idea. It could be split into separate sections with the wiring section marked for v6 and v8 users.
 
MMAFIGHTER121 said:
its coil B (2) the last digit in the code indicates the coil # too.
Click to expand...

glad you got it figured out, i know im a little late on this but the "B" doesn't indicate what number coil it is, it is just basically telling you a coil is unplugged. you can unplug any other one and you will still get a "B" fault
 
I want to replace all of my coils and plugs this spring. Are the Accel or MSDs better than the Motorcraft? After reading about this rewiring issue, is it worth it?
 
After my stock set went, then a set from ebay, in less then 10k miles and constantly reading about people issues with factory/OEM replacement coils I decided I wasn't going to take it anymore. It took several months, about a dozen intake removals, about $400 in parts, and lots of frustration I finally figured it out. I've done the hard and expensive part, now all you have to do is follow my writeup, which I plan to rewrite slightly.

Is it worth it? Well if the Accel coils are as reliable as my other experiences with the brand then the answer is YES. The rewire is easy, just takes some time. If you don't understand anything or need clarification on anything in the writeup please let me know so I can edit it to make is easier to understand.
That reminds me, I need to finish the rest of the writeup for us v6 users because they require more work.

FYI, my prior experience with Accel are:
1. 92 F-150 with 300 I6. It had Accel coil, distributor cap/rotor, wires and plugs. replaced in about 2002 and are all still working great.
2. 01' F-150 5.4. Has COP and we only used the coils. replaced a few years ago at 100k miles and it has about 170 now with no problems. I think these are very similar if not the same as the ones we use.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 85 (members: 0, guests: 85)
Back
Top