PCM Part Number

Kevin, I still haven't gotten around to this, I suck at life. My brother is on vacation for 45 days so I'm literally working my job - from 730-530 then working at his business from 6-10, and full time on weekends. #nolife.
 

Thanks Stumpy. Good read, but doesn't help me. I tried a used PCM - it functioned similarly to how mine did, but a little different (it did help me determine that it is indeed the PCM that is causing my issue). Also, I believe v6 PCMS are more readily available than the v8's. My only options are: 1. Try a used pcm - no thanks. 2. Pay the dealer $760 and have them get it "whenever." 3. Have it rebuilt by an electronics rebuilder.

I've settled in on option 3, just need to get around to contacting the electronics rebuilder, paying for the service and shipping out the PCM.
 
You may want to take the PCM to a GOOD electronic repair shop (20+ years of service) and have them look at it. It may be something simple like a cold solder joint..
 
You may want to take the PCM to a GOOD electronic repair shop (20+ years of service) and have them look at it. It may be something simple like a cold solder joint..

I hope you're right! To give you a small idea of what I'm dealing with now - I currently have no car. I sold my other car because I commute to work via train now. So anything I do has to be within walking distance of where I am. Don't get me wrong, it's not terribly bad as I work in downtown Boston - very similar to New York City, so everything is readily available... but I couldn't get the PCM to an electronic repair shop that would be classified as "good." I appreciate the advice but if you're right then the company I'm going to mail this thing to should be able to tackle this fairly easily. We'll see!
 
You may want to take the PCM to a GOOD electronic repair shop (20+ years of service) and have them look at it. It may be something simple like a cold solder joint..

^thats good alternative advice^

stumpy i read your thread, you didnt technically rebuild anything, you just switched it out, correct?
i cant help but think that maybe your pcm wasnt bad.. personally, i know my car will make some different/unpleasant shifts when any type of fault is bad enough to throw a code and trip a light. theres so much that factors into those shift timings that i cant help but think that its possible that you pre-emptively replaced the pcm.. the shift timings are literally the end result of the computer's entire scheme of processing, almost every sensor factors into the shift timing decision.

as far as jjuncool: " 'without going into too much detail' my car needs a new PCM. "
i know youre busy, but that has 'im just tossing parts at it' written all over it. maybe an opinion from ford/lincoln dealer would be your best bet?? symptoms and codes on this one are fishy.. think how many ppl replace coils based on throttle codes, coils based on tranny issues, etc. the pcm really processes -everything-.. its a computer: garbage input = garbage output. sure its possible that its junk, but without an expert opinion from ford/lincoln dealer OR potentially a slam-dunk easy fix from an electronic expert as stumpy said... then yeah, without one of those you <or anyone else> are just guessing, pissing in the wind, throwing parts at it, yadda yadda, etc, etc
 
jrand, I'm not just throwing parts at it. I was - at first. I've been to several dealerships. Some tell me to replace the transmission ($4000), some say to replace the PCM. They are so UNSURE of what is happening I can't get any of them to commit to either one solving the issue. So instead of throwing parts at it ($4000) and ($760), I'm going to chance the PCM rebuild for only $170. I've paid the dealer diagnostic twice already and had a couple more dealers diagnose it for "free."

My coils and plugs are basically brand new. Replaced them in the past summer - and I barely drive my car. MIGHT have 200-300 miles on them. Cats are practically new-ish. Maybe 5,000 miles on them too. I've recently had my transmission completely rebuilt.

Here's how I came to the determination that it's the PCM. Long story short, I was driving the car one day and came to a sudden stop. I felt something weird with the car but didn't know what. Then I started driving and it felt like a slight misfire around 50-60 mph. I didn't notice it at first, the gf did. Everyday it got worse... One day I'm driving the car and it shifts harshly into 3rd, weird. Next day it's driving fine. Couple of days later I get harsh engagements into third and out of third. Then P D R harsh engagements. I take it to the mechanic. He tells me transmission, I don't believe him. Go to dealer, pay the $120. They tell me transmission. I get the transmission rebuilt. Same exact symptoms. I tell the mechanic, he opens the transmission - confirms he replaced everything.. valve body, solenoid, servo bores and bands... replaces the torque converter. Same issue. I try a used transmission from the junk yard. Same issue. Mechanic refunds me all of my money, junk yard does too - after several harsh conversations. After all of this I'm only out the dealer diagnosis fee and $300 for fluids.

Now to the fun part. What are the chances that I replace the transmission twice to have the same EXACT issues. After days of researching on here and talking to some members, I try the PCM. I get a used PCM for $300 from the junk yard. Put it in, and weirdly enough I didn't have to do any programming, maybe got lucky. Now I have harsh engagements into P D R and a SLIGHT engagement issue into 5th. 3rd is completely fine. That led me to believe PCM. Also the weekend before I moved I talked to a SR55 transmission expert and he told me that he's seen this countless times with our car and that it is for a fact the PCM. He actually had an LS sitting there with the same exact problem as mine that was waiting on a PCM. He told me this after driving my car... my shift into 3rd was so bad you can actually hear a clank below the car... he said with the tranny shifting that poorly I would get an E where D5 would be. The tell that it's the PCM is that it's not. He said your PCM thinks this is normal shifting, instead of thinking it's not normal and throwing the 'E.' I never got an E, and trust me it was terrible. Now it's not so bad at all with the junk yard PCM. My dad didn't even notice it. I did because I'm paying attention to it, but it's no where near as bad as it was.

Chances are there that the mechanic didn't rebuild it properly, and that the used transmission was also shot... but for all three (my original trans included) to have the same exact symptoms seems very unlikely to me. If this doesn't resolve my issue I will have the transmission specialist rebuild it again. He offered me a 4 year 50k mile warranty and gave me a really good deal. $1800 out the door - including installation. Either way I'll get it fixed, it's just a matter of when and for how much.
 
jrand, I'm not just throwing parts at it. I was - at first. I've been to several dealerships. Some tell me to replace the transmission ($4000), some say to replace the PCM. They are so UNSURE of what is happening I can't get any of them to commit to either one solving the issue. So instead of throwing parts at it ($4000) and ($760), I'm going to chance the PCM rebuild for only $170. I've paid the dealer diagnostic twice already and had a couple more dealers diagnose it for "free."

My coils and plugs are basically brand new. Replaced them in the past summer - and I barely drive my car. MIGHT have 200-300 miles on them. Cats are practically new-ish. Maybe 5,000 miles on them too. I've recently had my transmission completely rebuilt.

Here's how I came to the determination that it's the PCM. Long story short, I was driving the car one day and came to a sudden stop. I felt something weird with the car but didn't know what. Then I started driving and it felt like a slight misfire around 50-60 mph. I didn't notice it at first, the gf did. Everyday it got worse... One day I'm driving the car and it shifts harshly into 3rd, weird. Next day it's driving fine. Couple of days later I get harsh engagements into third and out of third. Then P D R harsh engagements. I take it to the mechanic. He tells me transmission, I don't believe him. Go to dealer, pay the $120. They tell me transmission. I get the transmission rebuilt. Same exact symptoms. I tell the mechanic, he opens the transmission - confirms he replaced everything.. valve body, solenoid, servo bores and bands... replaces the torque converter. Same issue. I try a used transmission from the junk yard. Same issue. Mechanic refunds me all of my money, junk yard does too - after several harsh conversations. After all of this I'm only out the dealer diagnosis fee and $300 for fluids.

Now to the fun part. What are the chances that I replace the transmission twice to have the same EXACT issues. After days of researching on here and talking to some members, I try the PCM. I get a used PCM for $300 from the junk yard. Put it in, and weirdly enough I didn't have to do any programming, maybe got lucky. Now I have harsh engagements into P D R and a SLIGHT engagement issue into 5th. 3rd is completely fine. That led me to believe PCM. Also the weekend before I moved I talked to a SR55 transmission expert and he told me that he's seen this countless times with our car and that it is for a fact the PCM. He actually had an LS sitting there with the same exact problem as mine that was waiting on a PCM. He told me this after driving my car... my shift into 3rd was so bad you can actually hear a clank below the car... he said with the tranny shifting that poorly I would get an E where D5 would be. The tell that it's the PCM is that it's not. He said your PCM thinks this is normal shifting, instead of thinking it's not normal and throwing the 'E.' I never got an E, and trust me it was terrible. Now it's not so bad at all with the junk yard PCM. My dad didn't even notice it. I did because I'm paying attention to it, but it's no where near as bad as it was.

Chances are there that the mechanic didn't rebuild it properly, and that the used transmission was also shot... but for all three (my original trans included) to have the same exact symptoms seems very unlikely to me. If this doesn't resolve my issue I will have the transmission specialist rebuild it again. He offered me a 4 year 50k mile warranty and gave me a really good deal. $1800 out the door - including installation. Either way I'll get it fixed, it's just a matter of when and for how much.

gotcha, yeah pcm is def a possibility. i dont know your year/mileage but you should probably consider the $$ your pumping into it vs the value. some ppl on here are borderline insane with their attachment to this model and lose sight of that. i think youre smart enough to know that it might not be worth it to pump any more $$ or time into it.

with that said, i have smoothed out a 2-3-2 clunk before. and i did it for free. i had to disconnect the battery for something and followed all of the directions. in doing so it randomly started clunking 2-3-2. it made zero sense, but it 'learned' to do that. i disconnected the battery and went thru the process again and.. voila. it quit doing it. i went probably 7-10k miles before it did it again, and it only did it after, guess what, i accidentally drained the battery and lost my shift specs. same plan though, i disconnected, followed the procedures and it has not come back after i dunno 25-30k miles. the only thing i can think is that when its in its initial adaptive stage it is almost too adaptive. if youve never cleared your kam, and initially drove it like a grandma thru the initial adaptive period and also did the same thing except drive it like the intimidator <RIP> then you probably wouldnt get it and would probably have zero understanding of how much you can 'teach' it to do without even turning a wrench.

you didnt mention clearing shift specs, but it would be ludicrous to think that you should maintain the specs from when you first started experiencing problems thru all that and up until now. scrap that data and fool around with it.

also, what is the status of your fuel filter? maf? are you always running correct octane of gas? when is the last time you ran injector cleaner? i would make sure all of that stuff is taken care of as well. dirty fuel system could be causing some of your issues and exacerbating other, more minor issues. snowball-effect.
 
Clearing the KAM by disconnecting the battery worked okay for about....3 miles. Then mine was back to harsh shifting. It's so strange that there are so many cars that have similar symptoms that point to a possible PCM issue, I can't imagine that something like a bad coil(s) would ONLY affect the shifting/transmission logic, but stranger things have happened.
 
Here's how I look at it. Everything I do I do a quick cost/benefit analysis on. Right now my car in it's current condition is worth nothing. Maybe $1,000 if someone was willing to take chance on it. If I fix it, I can get about 7 for it, and with all of the aftermarket stuff I have maybe an extra 1-2k. (McLaren Grille, Volvo Wheels, Tuner, Two 12" Alpine subs, Eibachs, Stainless steel exhaust, etc...) So to me, I don't have the time to part it out right now, and probably won't in the foreseeable future.. so to get any benefit from this I HAVE to fix it. I hate to say this, but as soon as I do get it up and running correctly I'll put it up for sale. It has approx. 120,000 miles on it. If I sell it on the street as is I can get 7k, I had offers before. If someone wants it for 6, I'll remove the extras and return it to stock. But before any of this can be considered, I need to get it running correctly. So $170 seems like a good gamble to me.
 
Clearing the KAM by disconnecting the battery worked okay for about....3 miles. Then mine was back to harsh shifting. It's so strange that there are so many cars that have similar symptoms that point to a possible PCM issue, I can't imagine that something like a bad coil(s) would ONLY affect the shifting/transmission logic, but stranger things have happened.

i assume that you dont have another issue? coils, gas, maf, yadda yadda? theres a litany of parts/sensors that factor into your shift timing that you need to rule out before you trouble shoot. how many miles on your coils? what brand are your coils? are your spark plugs gapped correctly? clean your throttle body. clean your maf. check for intake leaks. change your fuel filter. check your air filter. run injector cleaner through the correct octane of gas <only> and refrain from using lower octanes. check your tranny fluid level. check for any codes.

if all that checks out <and maybe even others i forgot> and you disconnect the battery and touch the leads together and follow the battery reconnect procedure from the owners manual, then do not shut the car off, but instead go for a drive and follow the drive cycle procedure.. if you then have the clank from 2-3-2 then stop the car immediately and disconnect the battery again and touch the +&- together again. redo the reconnect procedure and try driving the car thru the drive cycle procedure radically different than how you did the time before. if you still have a 2-3-2 clank after doign that after 3 or 4 shots then and only then do you potentially have a major issue with the tranny, shift solenoid and/or possibly the pcm. bc something is so fcked up that it cannot even learn to shift correctly.

im not kidding when i said i had 2-3-2 clanking, i thought the tranny was done. i called my friend and told him i was probably gonna need a tow home and a ride. it did it a handful of times then completely quit doing it when stopped the car and disconnected the battery and followed the steps again. you gotta pay particular attn to the steps, bc theres minimum temperature limits to successfully doing the test and it requires a steady foot. i use the cruise control to do it and i do it on a perfect 6 lane road when theres no traffic. theres minimal traffic lights and the speed limit is sufficient. scouting out the right area to do the drive cycle correctly is half the battle, bc if youre not accelerating smoothly or meetign all of the test requirements before you shut down the car the first time then youre not going to have much success, especially with the 4-5-4 overdrive sensor.

another random tip is that you can check to see if the evap monitor has completed with a code checker. if p1000 or p0000 <i dont remember the exact code, but its one of them> is still present then the drive cycle is not complete. a light will not illuminate, even if the code is present. also the drive cycle is not a -complete- relearn process. if you regularly do rolling stops you will notice that your shift specs for some rolling stop situations will not be set if you simply follow the drive cycle as laid out in the shop manual or pced <i dont remember which book its in, but the pertinent pages with the procedure steps have been posted on here a few times>
 
Here's how I look at it. Everything I do I do a quick cost/benefit analysis on. Right now my car in it's current condition is worth nothing. Maybe $1,000 if someone was willing to take chance on it. If I fix it, I can get about 7 for it, and with all of the aftermarket stuff I have maybe an extra 1-2k. (McLaren Grille, Volvo Wheels, Tuner, Two 12" Alpine subs, Eibachs, Stainless steel exhaust, etc...) So to me, I don't have the time to part it out right now, and probably won't in the foreseeable future.. so to get any benefit from this I HAVE to fix it. I hate to say this, but as soon as I do get it up and running correctly I'll put it up for sale. It has approx. 120,000 miles on it. If I sell it on the street as is I can get 7k, I had offers before. If someone wants it for 6, I'll remove the extras and return it to stock. But before any of this can be considered, I need to get it running correctly. So $170 seems like a good gamble to me.

you have your head on straight when it comes to the value. agreed, $170 isnt a bad gamble, but it is still a gamble.
am i reading right that you did not clear your kam after any of these major component changes?? seriously just clear the sht, its not even a gamble. get off the internet right now and go try it.
<its probably too cold to do it correctly, but it will be better than data from major components that are completely gone or rebuilt or whatever else you had done to it>
 
Everything that you've listed above is practically brand new. Coils, plugs, VGCs, fuel filter, air filter (K&N and recently cleaned/oiled), never ever used anything below 93 octane and if anyone else drives my car they are made well aware. The battery reset I did after I installed the Used PCM. I'm over 90% sure that my issue is PCM related.
 
Also, my car is about 300 miles away from me.. so anything I need to do to the car or try is out of the question. For now. I do, however, have the PCM in hand and as soon as I can I'm going to ship it off for a rebuild. Once I get it back I'll plan a trip to NJ and have it installed with the hopes that it resolves my issues.
 


"drive cycle procedure", "drive cycle procedure",

reverse-1377173964_parrot_enjoys_smoking.gif


"drive cycle procedure", "drive cycle procedure"




JJ, didn't you know .... you just needed to do a correct "drive cycle procedure" !!!​
 
littlerig, thats almost your first informative post ever... congrats. 1/4500+, youre makin progress bubbie keep it up.

uncool: your maf? oil from KN on the maf is a potential. mucked up injectors too
just unhooking rehooking the battery alone <and not following the appropriate procedures> can potentially cause your issue by itself, but whatevr do your thing. 'i aint tryin no free sht' <said with redneck twang>
 
^ got a whole lot more effort into it then you do, plus I actually own an LS, unlike yourself!
and the name calling, you so good at that, it's about all you got.
 
^ got a whole lot more effort into it then you do, plus I actually own an LS, unlike yourself!
and the name calling, you so good at that, it's about all you got.
i knew you couldnt make two useful posts in a row.. i guess we will have to wait thru another 4500 posts of useless .gifs and rap-music videos before you contribute another fragment of usable information/knowledge...

a whole lot more effort into what? <rhetorical>
i rebuilt an 05 ls and use it as my dd. its cosmetically fcked up from 0-25 ft, but not bad from greater than 25ft. considering ive thus far been paid to drive it, its been a deal.
name calling? <rhetorical>
all i got? <rhetorical>
there is nothing in this post for you to respond to bubbie. stop looking for .gifs... stop looking for a 'meme'. stop trying to remember your favorite rap video. just put down the keyboard and go tell your wife you are sorry. put down the keyboard. you know why. have fun bubbie. 1/4500 = 0.000222222 ... cm, eh? poor fella
 
Bla bla bla bla, same ol' Jrant, same ol, why don't you run along now with your Mommy's LS and go
smiley-finger007.gif
yourself!

You irritate more then you contribute, all you ever have to share with us is a
censored.gif
'n drive cycle relearn procedure which is pretty much already established of not fixing anything other then your ego.

Come talk to us when you get your own LS and do some real repairs, pics, writeups and all. Something a little more the some Octane boost and battery disconnect. Spare us the relearn procedure would ya, you've been proven wrong a few dozen times now, yet you persist every other thread to assist with others are just throwing parts at it and you could fix it for free with a relearn KAM setting bull crap, plenty took you up on it and all came back with the fact it did nothing to fix their shift issues.


You sink further and further, now your weak come back is how you are bothered about the type of music I put in a video at one point, how "fantastic irrelevant" your findings are!

Go
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'n drive cycle relearn procedure something, That's all you got ... reset your KAM settings ... go on, run along!





PS: Get a spell checker already, ask your mom for an advance on your allowance, if need be!
 
whats a 'come back'? and why would i need to have one in response to your 'mom jokes'?
i think you got your posts mixed up... you meant to post that one here: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=mtv+yo+momma
Right??
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nothing i said was 'proven wrong' in this thread. OP said his car <in its current form> is 300mi away and was completely vague about what he tried and when he tried it. he provided nothing in terms of a timeline of what he did in an attempt to reset/recalibrate electronic data/parameters, namely kam and shift parameters, in his now multiple pcm/tranny combos.
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spare you the drive cycle relearn procedure? go back and read, i did bubbie. i never posted the drive cycle relearn procedure in this thread. he said his car is 300mi away and that he wasnt able to do anything with the 'car' itself, remember? its probably impossible for OP to even complete the procedure without bypassing critical portions anyways, given the temperatures in boston/nj, wherever he is. its gotta be 40+ degrees <F>. he didnt try an oz of advice i gave him.
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all that matters in this thread: you cant hot-swap a pcm <a COMPUTER> and/or a COMPUTER-controlled tranny and expect your car to operate correctly without also resetting/reprogramming the computer's kam/tranny shift specs. its far from plug and play. its exactly why they say to restart your personal computer <or handheld computer-phone> after you change major pertinent components or make significant software changes. go read the manuals. disconnect/reconnect battery and follow reconnect procedures is written in there for almost every maintenance procedure that factors into tranny shift strategies.
the end.
<cue littledig's 'comebacker'>
 
Wow, this thread went to sh!t quickly, thanks guys lol. We really need a moderator on this forum... it's getting bad.
 
I'd also like to know how this went.

To answer the question on how they test these, circuit boards have testing schematics that go along with them. There are test points at specific parts of the card, and the schematics tell you what resistance value you should see between different test points, or will have you put voltage on specific pins and will tell you what voltage levels you should see between specific test points. Once you find the test points where you don't get the required readings, you will be given a list of components to replace. It's very doable, but also very tedious. They also have testing machines for cards that are repaired a lot where you plug in the card and it automatically tests everything then tells you what component or components need to be replaced. When I was in the US Army I was trained in how to do this during basic electronics training, but when we went on to systems training it turned into pluck and chuck card level replacement. Cards were shipped off for repair. The US Navy guys that also trained at my base had to go to component level though, because it's a lot harder to get a replacement card sent to a ship and very little room for replacement cards. Much easier to store 100 resistors that will fit on 1000 different cards.
 
Sorry I haven't been on here in a long time. Honestly I try to avoid this website now because it's all trolls or the same threads covering the same topics and it's just a waste of time. However, I do have an important update. I was finally able to get this done! I sent out the PCM and they fixed it TODAY and are mailing it back. Said I had 2-3 bad transmission circuits within the PCM, they also said it was fairly common and a simple fix. I should receive it by next week and then will have to plan on driving down to NJ, and making a trip to the dealer. SO I probably won't have another update for a few weeks, but I'm one step closer to maybe getting this thing back on the road after 7 months.
 

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