Rear mount turbo kit lincoln ls

[ILLS]

I dont have a number in mind. 400 has always been my magic number. Something about Black Sunshine. If we can solve the compression ratio issue and get closer to 10PSI we should be able to blow 400 away. I'm starting out behind you and Quick do to my 1st gen, but thats no excuse. I should be able to hit the same numbers and same times. I'm curious about some other parts of the bottom end. Head studs, sleeves, valve train etc. If we change the comp ratio with some custom forged rods and pistons, will everything else hold up to the added pressure? Valve train probably wont be an issue unless cam work is done, but every chain has a week link.

Are you talking about 400 hp at the rear tires or 400 hp total? 400 hp at the crank is no problem even without a built bottom end. Quik said he dyno'd at 350rwhp which puts him well over 400 at the crank. My turbo system will also easily and safely exceed that 400 hp at the crank figure once I throw it on the dyno to show some numbers. Getting 400rwhp with a rock solid tune, meth injection and 7 psi on the turbo might be doable but it will not be for the squeamish.

Custom forged rods will not be the way to go here. Forged is only cost affective if large runs are being done. It is extremely unlikely that a large enough contingent of people will be rallied up to get the tooling for the forged rods made which leaves one option. Billet. It is better than forged in allot of ways and from a small run standpoint it is also much more cost affective because the tooling required is primarily in CNC milling which is primarily writing the G-code for the computer.

Hardened head studs should not pose much of a problem at all. I would also not worry about the valvetrain either. With a 4v engine like this it can flow some pretty good numbers in stock form. I would leave the heads and cams alone as that is not the usual failure point when adding power.

 

[SPSully]

I know they're not the weak point for breaking more so for robbing power in a forced induction. I havent messed around with the 4 valve system yet, so you got me there. Im sure your valves and cam are ok, but if mine were that great, yours wouldnt be different than mine. I appreciate the info. Nice to talk to someone like minded. Though is sounds like you have WAY more experience. And I'm always talking WHP. crank means nothing to me.

 

[NateRW21]

ILLS, NHLSV8...

Have you considered looking for off the shelf rods which would match up close enough that a good machinist could make them work? Really, as long as length is pretty close and the big end is a hair on the small side... what with offset grinds and the like, it might be totally do-able. Small end wouldn't matter that much if you're having custom pistons cut; just run whatever floating wrist pin the rods would take. And while I'm thinking about it, stands a chance you could absorb a couple thousandths +/- of rod length by adjusting wrist-pin location in the piston. Obviously you'd be very limited on your adjustments here, but I doubt you're 100% locked in.

Just seems like you might have an easier time as far as your bank account is concerned if you could just rework and existing rod.

 

[ILLS]

I know they're not the weak point for breaking more so for robbing power in a forced induction. I havent messed around with the 4 valve system yet, so you got me there. Im sure your valves and cam are ok, but if mine were that great, yours wouldnt be different than mine. I appreciate the info. Nice to talk to someone like minded. Though is sounds like you have WAY more experience. And I'm always talking WHP. crank means nothing to me.

Naaaah, the 4v heads in these cars flow quite a bit in stock form. It is hard to find a modern 4v heads that doesn't. If you plan to only shoot for 400rwhp then the cams will not pose an issue either. Also, flow becomes less important with FI when compared to N/A; though still important when going for truly big power. Assuming the shortblock could handle the power I would bet these heads (even yours) would EASILY support 600rwhp with forced induction.

 

[ILLS]

ILLS, NHLSV8...

Have you considered looking for off the shelf rods which would match up close enough that a good machinist could make them work? Really, as long as length is pretty close and the big end is a hair on the small side... what with offset grinds and the like, it might be totally do-able. Small end wouldn't matter that much if you're having custom pistons cut; just run whatever floating wrist pin the rods would take. And while I'm thinking about it, stands a chance you could absorb a couple thousandths +/- of rod length by adjusting wrist-pin location in the piston. Obviously you'd be very limited on your adjustments here, but I doubt you're 100% locked in.

Just seems like you might have an easier time as far as your bank account is concerned if you could just rework and existing rod.

I have considered that before. My approach is that if I am going to bother taking the time to build the 3.9 bottom end with something custom I might as well go balls to the wall with the rods, pistons and especially the crank.

 

[NateRW21]

I can see the reasoning behind that...

 

[SPSully]

Naaaah, the 4v heads in these cars flow quite a bit in stock form. It is hard to find a modern 4v heads that doesn't. If you plan to only shoot for 400rwhp then the cams will not pose an issue either. Also, flow becomes less important with FI when compared to N/A; though still important when going for truly big power. Assuming the shortblock could handle the power I would bet these heads (even yours) would EASILY support 600rwhp with forced induction.

I only use the 400rwhp as an atleast number. Even the civic was putting more to the ground (412FWHP). And 400 seems easily attainable with FI. Thats about a 100% increase from stock for my first gen. There is a place in Mass that only does one off stuff for HiPo cars. I was thinging about having them make a bunch of things. The owner is a good guy and knows his stuff. The issue is I' have to leave my DD with him for a week or so just for the measurments, then another unkown amount of time to fit and fix, then fit again. Something I hadn't thought about before with putting twice the power to the ground is the tranny. We're tlaking heads, rods, pistons etc. but these tranny's are thought but many to be slushboxes. Something would definately need to be done to make this a "safe" application. The upside of having double power output and NEEDING to rebuild the tranny would be I could adjust the gearing to be more so geared towards the 400hp mark instead of the 200 mark. The other side of the internals and being able to take more boost, I could run a twin turbo if I really wanted to. I've always believed that if its sized right, one turbo will MORE than do the trick. But if its going to be rearmounted with PLENTY of room, why not go to a dual inline. Get a smaller one for the low end and a bigger one to really push the air through! ILLS you got me on the sizing thing, might end up on the phone with you trying to figure out what would be the best course there. The bottom line is the limits are your own imagination. I dont mean to stand on the head of a genious here, but you busted open the doors with the rear mount, now I want to release the flood. End game I'd like to line up next to that new 100k caddy and blow its doors off! The catch is I need to keep it relatively safe (i.e. done right not half arsed) and I want it to still very much so be a luxury car.

I have considered that before. My approach is that if I am going to bother taking the time to build the 3.9 bottom end with something custom I might as well go balls to the wall with the rods, pistons and especially the crank.

I agree. If I'm going to come out fo pocket for custom work, then I dont care to make anything that is just doable. I want it RIGHT! Nate, great idea though and I had thought about it. I had even briefly looked to see if any other manufacturers were runnning the same size. I stopped simply because if its gonna be custom then I want it right.

 

[ILLS]

Something I hadn't thought about before with putting twice the power to the ground is the tranny. We're tlaking heads, rods, pistons etc. but these tranny's are thought but many to be slushboxes. Something would definately need to be done to make this a "safe" application.

Keeping the bands adjusted properly and computer tuning will help these 5R55S trannies live quite well with this much horsepower. There are more than a few people running stock 5R55 trannies in their cars pushing 450+rwhp and doing ok. I would be lieing if I didn't mention that I think they are on borrowed time. The thing it does show is the ability for these transmissions to be able to take more power. Allot of us are finding out that the initial negative assessment of the newer 5R's as weak was mistaken. Not exactly bullet proof either.

But if its going to be rearmounted with PLENTY of room, why not go to a dual inline. Get a smaller one for the low end and a bigger one to really push the air through!

I recommend against this. I know that compounded boost (turbo to bigger turbo or turbo to bigger twin screw blower) is getting all hyped up right now but it make for needlessly complex piping under an already tight underbody. This will be due to the way the piping will have to be run for the inline turbo's. I suggest that if you want faster spooling times and good streetable power then go with regular twin turbo's. The way the piping will have to be routed under the car with conventional twin's will be much much simpler.

 

[SPSully]

I never read your posts and think t myself "what is he talking about!" I've said it before and now I'm saying it again. It's nice to come one here and have someone with your level of expertise AND who is like mided with me. I'm talking to the machine shop today about those rods and pistons. I'll keep you posted. I might just for giggles ask about an intake mani. Any thoughts about that? Sounds like these 4V motors dont really need much to boost and then rip up the pavement

 

[ILLS]

I never read your posts and think t myself "what is he talking about!" I've said it before and now I'm saying it again. It's nice to come one here and have someone with your level of expertise AND who is like mided with me. I'm talking to the machine shop today about those rods and pistons. I'll keep you posted. I might just for giggles ask about an intake mani. Any thoughts about that? Sounds like these 4V motors dont really need much to boost and then rip up the pavement

Doing a sheetmetal intake manifold would be fine as long as you were shooting for some serious power in the LS and everything else like engine, trans, rear end, and fuel system were fully built. I do not trust these composite manifolds too much, though I know most usually stand up to a marginal amount of boost. I would say that if you were planning to push enough boost to hit 500+rwhp then it might be a good idea to swap to a custom sheetmetal manifold. Some will call me crazy here but there is one big difference here. Honestly most cars running sheetmetal intake manifolds are shooting for 700-1000+rwhp. Very rarely do you see a car only pushing 500rwhp using one. The whole deal with the LS having to prematurely upgrade to the sheetmetal manifold is due to the composite intake manifold having much greater chance of failure at the boost levels required to make that power. Then factor in the inability to get a stronger aftermarket replacement and that is where the custom sheetmetal manifold would come in. Long paragraph for a semi-convoluted message, I know.

 

[SPSully]

I'll keep that in mind when I get ahold of the guy later on today.

 

[cammerfe]

High Boost Turbo Mods----

FWIW----Those of you who've been following my 'Land Speed LS' thread in the high performance section will note that the small block Chibbie rod with six inch length and two inch big-end is almost a drop-in for the LS engine. In my area, (Metro Detroit), a used, useable four litre crankshaft goes for $75.00. Custom piston manufacturers will be easily able to provide a forging that'll go with that rod and provide a relatively inexpensive combination for a fifteen pound plus boost lower end package.
As an aside,when planning to build toward four figure HP and torque levels, it would make sense to use Aluminium rods along with the forged pistons. Again, as an aside, I have a friend who's used a cast crank in his 6-71-blown 427 FE engine on the street for more than ten years. The combination of the 'girdle-style' main bearing support and the fully-weighted crankshaft make a VERY stout lower end for the LS engine. And the supercharged Jaguar engine uses composite intake passages.
KenS from Ben's Place

 

[curt941]

Any progress on this? Seems like a rear mount kit would be easy for a good shop to fab up.

 

[cammerfe]

I'm doing all the fab work in my garage. Slow going at present because I've had to start a new business and this takes all my time and money. I now expect to be back at Maxton for the start of the new season.

KS

 

[mlara1129]

soooo anything?

 

[cammerfe]

See 'Land Speed LS'

KS

 

[yorky329]

super charge or turbo???

I've had my 01' 3.0l 5spd manual for about a year... 121,000 miles but strong and dependable... I WANT MORE HP! open to any and all suggestions/links!

 

[mike6781]

i am trying to find out who does the rear mount turbo kit for the lincoln ls v8. if you can help me find that info i would really appreciate it. thank you

 

[ReneRobert]

FWIW----Those of you who've been following my 'Land Speed LS' thread in the high performance section will note that the small block Chibbie rod with six inch length and two inch big-end is almost a drop-in for the LS engine.

Hey Camm,

Maybe this is a dumb question, but can you be more precise or technical in defining the type of rod? When I google "small block Chibbie rod," google tells me I'm looking for a Chevy rod and I don't think that's what you meant...

 

[philly0420]

Yea he meant chevy. Lulz.

 

[ReneRobert]

Ooooh, thanks, I guess it was a dumb question huh? LoL

 

[philly0420]

I have seen worse. I thought it was funny google didn't bring up a vid with the title chubby girl takes rod in the ass or some chit. Google knew what you were looking for. And it wasn't chubby chicks with rods.

 

[cammerfe]

One think you can be sure of is that there are a zillion iterations of the small block chevvy rod available. My own GRP aluminium rods started from a forging blank for a sbc. As finished, they're set to use the nominal 1.88 crank pin size and are stock 4 litre Jag length. You can see pictures by looking at the 'Land Speed LS' thread. I'm sure I put some pics there at some time in the past.

KS

 

[ReneRobert]

Interesting, thanks for the info Camm