rear tie rod ends?
- Thread starter Ron Sircar
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MONTE 02 LS
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RigsLs, How are the bare metal rear adjustlinks holding up with the snow and salt? thanks
MONTE 02 LS
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Are they the bare metal ones?i used the same non passive units noted above, and couldn't be happier to delete the rear steering
RigsLS
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I'll grab a pic today or tomorrow. Probably a little rusted I'd imagine. I did hit them with some clear rattle can, we'll see how well that did.
MONTE 02 LS
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Thanks, I appreciate it
RigsLS
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Here MONTE, quick and dirty. Please don't mind the Canadian rust in the background on this poor '04 LSE. (unlike my 01 Sport)
As you can see, they are holding up somewhat good after nearly a year (roughly)
Two things to consider:
1) I had covered them after install with some clear coat.
2) It's not a DD, it gets out only now and then but does see the Winter muck.
pics ...
Also note: (not making excuses) Toe Adjust Links are mostly covered in white'ish road salt.
As you can see, they are holding up somewhat good after nearly a year (roughly)
Two things to consider:
1) I had covered them after install with some clear coat.
2) It's not a DD, it gets out only now and then but does see the Winter muck.
pics ...
Also note: (not making excuses) Toe Adjust Links are mostly covered in white'ish road salt.
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The OEM from Tasca seems to be in stock. Please verify this, OEM Ford Rear Suspension End Link 6W4Z5B551AA | TascaParts.com,
is the rear stabilizing link (tie rod and linkage, blah blah, why are there so many f*ing names?) that maintains passive rear steer. It says OEM but wanted to make sure.
Thanks!
(I'll delete my other post)
MONTE 02 LS
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Thank you RigLs
RigsLS
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NP ... should have wiped them down first as they're clearly covered with winter muck.
I put new OEM passive s on my wife's '03 around that same time and DEEZA's non passive on my '01 4 years ago ... see if I can grab some clean pics of those when I get back home.
Gotta back the queen out anyhow to get at the last 4 cords of wood.
I put new OEM passive s on my wife's '03 around that same time and DEEZA's non passive on my '01 4 years ago ... see if I can grab some clean pics of those when I get back home.
Gotta back the queen out anyhow to get at the last 4 cords of wood.
jasond
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I JUST got a set of these from Tasca, and installed the left side today. Pleased with the quality of the part.
04_Sport_LS
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So do you notice a difference in handling with the new OEM's. Just curious,,, because my OEM's didn't seem to be bad... but as I have a full rear suspension to rebuild yet... I bought "non-passive" rear toe links for a Jaguar. Got Lemforders, (ZF company), from Rock Auto for less than $100 per side.
jasond
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Well, I bought the LS last summer as a replacement for my TDI, which just went back to VW two weeks ago. So, I never drove the LS enough to get acquainted with it, other than the hour drive from where it was purchased. It's still sitting on jack stands waiting for completion of brakes and suspension.
RigsLS
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OEM always wins over any attempted matched part by an aftermarket provider.
Be surprised the amount of "other vendors" parts don't work or work for very long on this LS.
Stay very clear of DP suspension aftermarket parts, right down dangerous.
So did you need to replace anything else for this fix?
I know these need to be swapped for new as my symptoms are exactly as described elsewhere with highway lane changes and cornering, etc. Not sure if there are any other components that MUST be replaced in conjunction? Or additional components recommended for replacement?
jasond
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The tie rods themselves were not "bad" in my case, as there was no discernible play in them, but the boots were shot big time. All told, I spent about a grand refurbishing the suspension on this car. The only components that had any real play were the (front) tie rod ends, but there was a lot of bad rubber all around. I was surprised because the car drove nice on its maiden voyage home.
RigsLS
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There are no tie rods on the rear of any LS, they are called toe adjust links, they go from the inner frame to the spindles.
Get MOOG's from Rockauto.com for your sway bar end links. Cheaper and better.
That should tighten things up a bit in the rear unless the bushings on the upper and lower control arms are shot. That gets a bit more expensive. The lower inner bushings are famous for the TMC induced squeak. It's the dry rot in the rubber bushing. You can spray it with a some PB Blaster but the noise will come back guaranteed. If you plan on replacing the control arms be sure to get fresh new nylon locking nuts, don't reuse the old ones. Not recommended. Both upper and lower control arms need to be torqued to spec with the load of the vehicle on the ground. Alternatively one could measure axle height to top of fender to center of hub and jack it up to that measurement with the wheel off and tighten the hardware then but it's as easy to reach in underneath when sitting loaded at ground level.
You can replace the front sway bar end links with the upgraded MOOG suspension end links also. They are a good bet brand name and work good. Greasable also if you're into that.
If your front end makes thumping sounds when going slowly over uneven surfaces in the road, you need to replace the front sway bar bushings.
Sport shocks are near impossible to find but that doesn't mean there aren't any available. If interested have your local Ford Lincoln dealership see if they can source you some. They are no longer in production at this time.
Upper control arm on the front drivers side can be a real PITA as the degas bottle has to come out to get at the hardware. Some have managed to sneak in at the top with the inside wheel well guard removed but it's tricky as can be.
... search
Get MOOG's from Rockauto.com for your sway bar end links. Cheaper and better.
That should tighten things up a bit in the rear unless the bushings on the upper and lower control arms are shot. That gets a bit more expensive. The lower inner bushings are famous for the TMC induced squeak. It's the dry rot in the rubber bushing. You can spray it with a some PB Blaster but the noise will come back guaranteed. If you plan on replacing the control arms be sure to get fresh new nylon locking nuts, don't reuse the old ones. Not recommended. Both upper and lower control arms need to be torqued to spec with the load of the vehicle on the ground. Alternatively one could measure axle height to top of fender to center of hub and jack it up to that measurement with the wheel off and tighten the hardware then but it's as easy to reach in underneath when sitting loaded at ground level.
You can replace the front sway bar end links with the upgraded MOOG suspension end links also. They are a good bet brand name and work good. Greasable also if you're into that.
If your front end makes thumping sounds when going slowly over uneven surfaces in the road, you need to replace the front sway bar bushings.
Sport shocks are near impossible to find but that doesn't mean there aren't any available. If interested have your local Ford Lincoln dealership see if they can source you some. They are no longer in production at this time.
Upper control arm on the front drivers side can be a real PITA as the degas bottle has to come out to get at the hardware. Some have managed to sneak in at the top with the inside wheel well guard removed but it's tricky as can be.
... search
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RigsLS
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Jason, when you swap out your rear toe adjust linkages you need to go for a four wheel alignment or you'll run down your tires in a hurry. Eyeballing them to the old ones is fun and all but we'll never get them bang on. Leave it too long and you'll need new tires, doesn't take long if they are out of alignment. No joke!
jasond
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Thanks for the advice RigsLS. I spent about $1000 in parts total for the suspension, so an alignment will get done when the car is inspected. Ex aircraft mechanic here.
$30.79
Rear right sway bar link(moog):
More Information for MOOG K80245
$30.79
Rear left sway bar link(moog):
More Information for MOOG K80246
$47.86
Rear right sway bar link (Ford):
Stabilizer Link, RIGHT for 2004 Lincoln LS|XW4Z-5C486-AA : Genuine Factory OEM Parts & Accessories | TascaParts.com
$52.65 Rear left sway bar link (Ford):
Stabilizer Link, LEFT for 2004 Lincoln LS|XW4Z-5C487-AA : Genuine Factory OEM Parts & Accessories | TascaParts.com
So... The MOOGs are cheaper. After $8.99 in shipping I'm still about $30 under the price of the OEMs shipped along with the toe adjust links (that I'll be ordering from Tasca). Are the MOOGs better than OEM? If not, are the OEMs not worth $30 extra bucks?
RigsLS
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g1ft, I just noted by your listing, in this case the left sway bar end link is more expensive compared to the right side. Kinda contradicts my other thread statement about right side parts being more expensive. This is in some instances, the right side control arms are more then the lefts. Is what it is.
The OEM end links are skinnier then the Moog's. The Moog's seem more robust and solid. Many of us have used them without issue. Moog is a very reputable brand name in the suspension game. They only provide the greasable units, which means they come with the grease nipple that you'd need to turn in. They easily strip if you crank them in to much so easy on that.
Your OEM Ford toe adjust linkages are a direct replacement. You could have gone for some cheaper Rimmerbro JAG replacements from the UK but you'd have lost the rear passive steering in those. Not a huge deal as the rear end would feel slightly tighter and not follow as much in turns. Some insist on using the OEM passive steering, others don't even notice a difference and my self I say not enough race car.
I have OEM on my wife's 03, DEEZA non passive on my 01 and UK Rimmerbro JAG's on my 04 LSE only because the DEEZA's are no longer in production for the LS.
Your list looks good, you can do this your self, just need a jack, stands, an impact, couple of wrenches and some PB Blaster or WD40 or something simular. Spray the hardware the night before. The new hardware as in the nuts, are provided with your order.
Torq them to spec which you can find in our online work shop manual. Retorq a week later is always a good idea.
Be sure to keep your MOOG end links in their respective boxes until install, you can see the part numbers differ right from left because they in fact are different with respect to the angles, keep an eye on it.
If you need anything, let us know.
Have a read at the rear suspension section in the online work shop manual.
The OEM end links are skinnier then the Moog's. The Moog's seem more robust and solid. Many of us have used them without issue. Moog is a very reputable brand name in the suspension game. They only provide the greasable units, which means they come with the grease nipple that you'd need to turn in. They easily strip if you crank them in to much so easy on that.
Your OEM Ford toe adjust linkages are a direct replacement. You could have gone for some cheaper Rimmerbro JAG replacements from the UK but you'd have lost the rear passive steering in those. Not a huge deal as the rear end would feel slightly tighter and not follow as much in turns. Some insist on using the OEM passive steering, others don't even notice a difference and my self I say not enough race car.
I have OEM on my wife's 03, DEEZA non passive on my 01 and UK Rimmerbro JAG's on my 04 LSE only because the DEEZA's are no longer in production for the LS.
Your list looks good, you can do this your self, just need a jack, stands, an impact, couple of wrenches and some PB Blaster or WD40 or something simular. Spray the hardware the night before. The new hardware as in the nuts, are provided with your order.
Torq them to spec which you can find in our online work shop manual. Retorq a week later is always a good idea.
Be sure to keep your MOOG end links in their respective boxes until install, you can see the part numbers differ right from left because they in fact are different with respect to the angles, keep an eye on it.
If you need anything, let us know.
Have a read at the rear suspension section in the online work shop manual.
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You're an OEM guy, aren't ya?
Thanks! Excellent info. I'm planning on picking this up: Amazon product ASIN B004VYURT0
I imagine it'll do just fine for gettin the foot pounds just right.
joegr
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On many things, but not everything. That said, in this case, yes.
04_Sport_LS
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This is one of the FEW instances,,, where I would recomend aftermarket over OEM. The Moogs are beefier and greasable. Plus they don't use the plastic insert where the ball socket is. My Moog's have 100k miles on them and are still tight.