rear tie rod ends?

OEM (left) vs. MOOG (right)

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Moog's for either front or rear are much "beefier" as 04_ stated.


.
 
Okay, I guess I am out of sync with this thread. My answer of OEM was for the rear toe links. For the sway bar end links, I did go aftermarket. (more for cost than for looking for better)
 
joegr said:
Okay, I guess I am out of sync with this thread. My answer of OEM was for the rear toe links. For the sway bar end links, I did go aftermarket. (more for cost than for looking for better)
Click to expand...


Yes, sorry 'bout that. theg!fted1 had the Rear sway bar links on his list, so we just switch to MOOG discussion.

::back to our regular original programming::
 
RigsLS said:
g1ft, I just noted by your listing, in this case the left sway bar end link is more expensive compared to the right side. Kinda contradicts my other thread statement about right side parts being more expensive. This is in some instances, the right side control arms are more then the lefts. Is what it is.

The OEM end links are skinnier then the Moog's. The Moog's seem more robust and solid. Many of us have used them without issue. Moog is a very reputable brand name in the suspension game. They only provide the greasable units, which means they come with the grease nipple that you'd need to turn in. They easily strip if you crank them in to much so easy on that.

Your OEM Ford toe adjust linkages are a direct replacement. You could have gone for some cheaper Rimmerbro JAG replacements from the UK but you'd have lost the rear passive steering in those. Not a huge deal as the rear end would feel slightly tighter and not follow as much in turns. Some insist on using the OEM passive steering, others don't even notice a difference and my self I say not enough race car.

I have OEM on my wife's 03, DEEZA non passive on my 01 and UK Rimmerbro JAG's on my 04 LSE only because the DEEZA's are no longer in production for the LS.

Your list looks good, you can do this your self, just need a jack, stands, an impact, couple of wrenches and some PB Blaster or WD40 or something simular. Spray the hardware the night before. The new hardware as in the nuts, are provided with your order.
Torq them to spec which you can find in our online work shop manual. Retorq a week later is always a good idea.

Be sure to keep your MOOG end links in their respective boxes until install, you can see the part numbers differ right from left because they in fact are different with respect to the angles, keep an eye on it.

If you need anything, let us know.
Have a read at the rear suspension section in the online work shop manual.
Click to expand...

I'm struggling with the inboard nut and bolt on the toe link. I've sprayed with PB Blaster and backed the nut off the bolt to the point where the threads stop and the integrated bolt head starts (at the very tip of the threads). I just can't seem to get the head off.

Any advice?

Also the new parts did not come with bolts or nuts. So I'll have to go get those matched up at a local bolt supply co.
 
I think you are saying the through bolt where it connects to the frame on the toe adjust links?
If it's the old one your trying to get off and it begins to turn, you have to hold the inside with large locking pliers and undo the nut. When you put the new link on you have to watch that rubber boot doesn't begin to turn on ya.

No sure what you mean by "where the threads stop and the integrated bolt head starts"

a pic would be handy if possible.
 
Don't try and split the toe adjust links in the middle. It should come out as one piece. Outer side has the through bolt at the wheel spindle and the inner side mounts into a bracket at the frame side.

When they are tough to get out, you have to clamp them down and use an impact on them, sometime a bit of heat from a torch is needed. The old crap coming out can fight ya a bit at times only because it's old rusted and sometimes seized. Pb blaster helps of course.
 
theg1ft said:
... new parts did not come with bolts or nuts ...
Click to expand...

The large through bolt at the spindle side can be reused. It's the nylon locking nut you need to go new on. Not such a good idea to reuse nylon locking nuts at anytime, specifically on parts that hold your suspension on.
Nylon locking nuts are a one shot deal. Some will argue they can be reused but those are usually comments from the not-so-smart people. There's a very valid reason why the Dealership workshop manual states to discard the nut and obtain a new locking nut.
 
RigsLS said:
No sure what you mean by "where the threads stop and the integrated bolt head starts"
Click to expand...

Gift is talking about the 8mm hex on the inboard stud of the toe link.

Gift... try running the nut back on part way,,, and take a wire brush to the threads to clean them up. If that doesn't work then you will most likely need a Dremel or die grinder with a cut off wheel. At the very minimum a hacksaw will do it... but you'll need a fine tooth metal cutting blade.

The nuts are "nyloc" nuts... that keep the nut from backing off. Thats what you need to get if you go to the hardware store. Flanged grade 5 at a minimum. Grade 8 would be better,,, but they need to be flanged. Odd that your new parts didn't come with the nuts. I know that my OEM Jag Lemforders did.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Gift is talking about the 8mm hex on the inboard stud of the toe link.

Gift... try running the nut back on part way,,, and take a wire brush to the threads to clean them up. If that doesn't work then you will most likely need a Dremel or die grinder with a cut off wheel. At the very minimum a hacksaw will do it... but you'll need a fine tooth metal cutting blade.

The nuts are "nyloc" nuts... that keep the nut from backing off. Thats what you need to get if you go to the hardware store. Flanged grade 5 at a minimum. Grade 8 would be better,,, but they need to be flanged. Odd that your new parts didn't come with the nuts. I know that my OEM Jag Lemforders did.
Click to expand...
Managed to use the hack saw to get one side off. Probably going to have to do the same on the other side. The wire brush is a good idea.

PITA.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Gift is talking about the 8mm hex on the inboard stud of the toe link.

Gift... try running the nut back on part way,,, and take a wire brush to the threads to clean them up. If that doesn't work then you will most likely need a Dremel or die grinder with a cut off wheel. At the very minimum a hacksaw will do it... but you'll need a fine tooth metal cutting blade.

The nuts are "nyloc" nuts... that keep the nut from backing off. Thats what you need to get if you go to the hardware store. Flanged grade 5 at a minimum. Grade 8 would be better,,, but they need to be flanged. Odd that your new parts didn't come with the nuts. I know that my OEM Jag Lemforders did.
Click to expand...
I found some class 10.5 nyloc with no flanges. What do the flanges offer that the nut and washer won't?
 
In regard to Nylock nuts---The 'nylon' is often damaged by removing a nut when the bolt has rusted or otherwise damaged threads. I've been playing with such nuts for a good part of my 75 years and if you turn the nut onto the threads and encounter significant resistance when the nylon gets to the threads they're usually good for another go-round. I believe they're often replaced because it's one more 'charge' that can be listed on a bill-head. The other reason is an over-abundance of caution against a fear of litigation. (I've also been known to use a drop or two of Loctite as extra insurance on occasion.)

KS
 
cammerfe said:
...I believe they're often replaced because it's one more 'charge' that can be listed on a bill-head. The other reason is an over-abundance of caution against a fear of litigation. (I've also been known to use a drop or two of Loctite as extra insurance on occasion.)

KS
Click to expand...

Perhaps they just want to be compliant with DOT regulations...
 
Like not inserting a cotter pin where needed.

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Had a brake chamber replaced not to long ago. A pin goes through that clevis hole, supposed to be a cotter pin keeping it from coming out. Guess the cotter pin was not used or forgotten, because they don't unbending themselves and simply fall out.

Should see me cheking this stuff more vigilantly during pretrip inspections since then. Could have been an out of service order with a hefty fine.

Other options is a welded yoke clevis, no through bolt nor cotter pin needed.

Also no jam nut used on that threaded push rod as required. Rather important stuff and that shop got back billed for the cost of the corrections. Possibly even made a ban list, not 100% sure just yet.

Moral of the story is nylon locking nuts or cotter pins should not be taken lightly, specially on key components like suspension or brake parts.
 
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... and setting landspeed records in an LS ... OK, my hats off to ya ol' fella.
(honestly mistook you for somewhere around 30-40ish)

Just turned 50 back in January myself. Not very happy about it.
 
They don't "call home" Lincoln LS Land Speed record holders, they reposition them! :)
 
I can honestly say that you are the first one to call me 'old fella'. (At least to my face---you might say!):)
 
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