Refinished my lights - PICS!!!

I thought I had seen some of that either a home depot or all american.

Cant you just order it online?
 
It looks like it's only banned in SoCal, but there also appears to be a "low VOC" version of the product available.
 
Another success story. For those that don't know. Bought this off of Ebay. Huge thanks for the write up, helped bunches. Also, if anyone can go without their set of lights for a week or two I may be willing to do this in the future. Depending on how the angel eyes go I may offer that as well.

Followed the methods listed in this thread. I opted to used full size sandpaper as I wasn't diggin the results from the 3M kit. I actually started with 240 grit that a sander I purchased came with, this helped considerably get the yellow crap off. I then went through the 3M kit, didn't like the results. Then went with the full scale hand wet sanding. Can't say how much time was taken but I did it comfortably in a half day with multiple trips to Lowe's, parts stores, eating dinner and a visit from a lady friend.

Before:
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Was severely oxidized with writing on the lens in yellow marker. Whatever marker was used it wasn't easy to get off.

These pics were taken in progression wet sanding by hand. After:

800 Grit:
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1000 Grit:
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1500 Grit:
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2000 Grit:
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3000 Grit (Like wet sanding with a sponge at this point):
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Finished product:
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Materials used:
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After the first coat cures. Does applying a second one have any added benefit?

Also, not doing it to these but when I do my set, will I be okay with Lamin-X afterwards. I've read on here it can melt itself and the lens when running halogens but the only one I have in there is the turn signal. I've asked before without a response so I figured I would ask again.
 
digging this up since i used the minwax on my lights:
how long did you let the minwax/mineral spirits dry before you put on another coat? how many coats did you use & how long did your lights hold up before you needed more minwax?

i bought a headlightlight from a salvage yard, looked like someone had already sanded it with 2500 and that was the highest grain the hardware store had anyways so i didnt even bother sanding, polished it with turtlewax polishing compound i had laying around, let it dry while i mixed the minwax (which is on sale at sherwin williams for $11 this weekend) and paint thinner (100% mineral spirits variety, also from sherwin). my mix was probaby 75%minwax & 25% paint thinner since thinner is more potent (and a few bucks cheaper) than mineral spirits. applied the mix and it looks like all the other pictures at the moment (still wet)

thanks to op for the procedure, would have never tried to put a product meant for wood on polycarbonate without this thread; also thanks to grell for recommending the thread
 
i let it dry 4 hrs and applied a 2nd coat right on top of the first. worked out fine for me. it doesnt look perfect, but it looks great and matches my other headlight which was in great condition to begin with.
 
Did this tonight, picked up a mini kit from Sylvania at AutoZone when I went out for some hand cleaner. Surprisingly it's almost like they read this thread and just packaged everything in one little box. My only gripe was the factory UV coat took a lot of work to get rid of completely. I did mine on the car, the box even included half a roll of electrical tape to put around the lamp fixture.

Before
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UV coating 'waterfall' that I had to sand out
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Done
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Needless to say, the car looks 5 years younger, amazing stuff.

Jamie
 
Well I drive a main highway 5 days a week for the last 3+ years and my lights were beat to crap. There were stone pits and they were faded pretty bad. In fact, they were so bad my mechanic said he almost didn't pass them for inspection cuz the light output was so greatly affected.

I used some sanding stuff I already had and bought the 3m headlight restore kit. The first light I did came out ok and the second light I did came out great. I figure sometime this summer I'll redo them again and get em perfect...This is a learning experience for me.

I looked online and found that a "regular" uv sealant probably wouldn't work too well since I'm essentially sanding ALL sealant off. I read that most stuff you buy at an auto parts store mostly seals "newer" lights that already have existing UV protection. I made a 50/50 mix of minwax and mineral spirits to seal (recommended by some people online)....we'll see how it holds up. IF ANYONE WANTS A WRITE-UP INCLUDING THE SANDPAPER GRITS I STARTED AND ENDED WITH, PLEASE LET ME KNOW.


In the first pic you can see the difference between the lights. Yes, the light on the right is clean....
Btw, cost me a total of 50 bucks or so.

Man, Those look great! I need to do mine.
 
Thank you MyFirstLincoln for the instructions. Tried my fog lights tonight with the 3M Headlight Restoration and they worked out great. Picking up the spar ureathane this weekend and will finish up. This is with the 500, 800 and 3000 grit and orange buffing pad.

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Did you guys sand by hand or use a sander like myfirstlincoln did? sorry if i missed this in the thread.
 
I do my mine with a drill as well. 3M headlight restoration kit worked the best for me.
 
when i did mine a couple of years ago, i started with the 3m kit and burned through all the sand paper pieces with the first light, instead of buying another kit, i just bough a bunch of regular sand paper and used that. i actually got more different gritts of paper and the second light turned out better than the first.
 
so you basically use whats provided in the 3m kit? what if you need more sanding paper?

divide the kit pads in half (seperate smart asses :D ) so you have equal disks for both. If you feel there THAT bad, start with I little rougher (LIGHTLY) by hand... I doubt there that bad though, enough to need anything extra.

The last two steps are most important... Take you time with the P3000 Trizact pad and polish pad and you'll be fine
 
ALSO the minwax/spirits is a must at the end to get them looking new...IMO
 
G Rell knows what he's talking about. My lights look marvelous. Thanks again G
 

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