Secondary Tensioners

okay, so that being said, how do i kno which cam is either retard or advanced without having to tear down the other half of the motor lol!!! i gotta get this thing running by 2mor0, i would assume it would be the cam closest to the exhaust manifold...

It's usually going to be the exhaust cam.

There is a locking alignment tool that you can get to lock the crankshaft into the correct position (it replaces the crank sensor). That would certainly tell you.

Alternately, I wouldn't call removing the other valve cover as "tearing down the other half of the motor."
 
thank you, is this tool universal or is there a specific one for the 3.9? and yes i kno its just another valve cover but i dont really have the time.. i was hoping for some sort of miracle and straight forward fix lol, its my only vehicle atm, and gf and i share it for work.. its tuff enuff as it is lol
It's usually going to be the exhaust cam.

There is a locking alignment tool that you can get to lock the crankshaft into the correct position (it replaces the crank sensor). That would certainly tell you.

Alternately, I wouldn't call removing the other valve cover as "tearing down the other half of the motor."
 
thank you, is this tool universal or is there a specific one for the 3.9? and yes i kno its just another valve cover but i dont really have the time.. i was hoping for some sort of miracle and straight forward fix lol, its my only vehicle atm, and gf and i share it for work.. its tuff enuff as it is lol

It is specific. You may not even need it if you can figure out where it locks into on the flexplate. Then you could just take out the crank sensor and look through the hole for it while you slowly rotate the crank. When you see the keyed location, stop and you're there. If one or both cam flats aren't pointed correctly, do one more full rotation to get there.

I can't quickly get to a picture of it for you.
 
i really appreciate the help! im going to go see where i can get with this...
It is specific. You may not even need it if you can figure out where it locks into on the flexplate. Then you could just take out the crank sensor and look through the hole for it while you slowly rotate the crank. When you see the keyed location, stop and you're there. If one or both cam flats aren't pointed correctly, do one more full rotation to get there.

I can't quickly get to a picture of it for you.
 
CHRIS2523 you were right, timing was out a tooth, while installing the new secondary tensioner, i had marked the gears and chain, and had to retard the exhaust cam one tooth advancing the chain one link, and BAM , cam flats right on the money!!! thanks to everyone who had helped me with the advice and helpful tips!
 
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I tell you one thing that saved a lot of work and frustration was the secondary chain they have on Ebay that has a master link in it.
Just be sure to turn the keeper the right way.
 
Lux, when installing the pass side. do you remember if the tensioner pin (the orange pin you pull) was on top or bottom?
 
on the passenger side the pin was bottom making spring extend towards bottom of the motor once pin was pulled. i have pics i could display later tn if you wanted, but yeah that tensioner fixed alot of issue my car was having, she runs like a dream now..
Lux, when installing the pass side. do you remember if the tensioner pin (the orange pin you pull) was on top or bottom?
 
Luxls, if you wouldn't mind, pics would be great. collecting all the info I can as I'm sure I'll be there soon,
she's ticking a little already and I'm on the stock GEN I tensioners.



G, stop pulling your pin!

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alright, ill be done work at midnight, eastern time-ontario so shortly after ill upload them in the steps it was done
 
We want Pics, We want Pics ....:GotPics:
 
okay! so as promised, here are a few pics of the process and problem with the secondary tensioner, i do apologize im a little late posting, with the gf being pregnant and the hormones and all the fun stuff i had to reframe from the computer and focus more on her to keep the peace lol.. anyways, heres a quick recap, so first of all, clearly the car was running like a bag of dump, i went to a local mechanic and had my car scoped, it read missfire thru every clyinder except 3 on bank 2.. he gave me 3 weeks and the car was going to be effed if i didnt service it, so i brought it straight home and into my garage it went, im not a noob so i decided to tackle this job myself, first i disconnected my battery so computer would reset, then i started tearing down bank 2, starting with removing coils, then valve cover... i had noticed that my secondary chain had been a little loose on the bottom and started feeling around and i felt the bottom of the secondary tensioner was really wobbly, and missing the top portion of the tensioner as shown in pics, and missing bottom portion as well as cracked along the whole back side, i then looked at the inside of my valve cover which should have been one of first steps and noticed wear from the secondary chain... also, from the slack, my exhaust cam had retard a tooth, as seen in the pictures also, the cam flats were not parallel while my motor was at TDC... so i used a paint marker, made some markings where everythign was sitting,removed my exhaust cam, R&R secondary tensioner, placed my exhaust cam one tooth advanced using my markings as a reference point, cam flats lined up, droped a hint of lucas on each cam bearing, and put it all back together making sure everything was clean and nothing left behind, hooked up the battery, and fired her up and walla! beautiful difference.. anyways the pics should help put sence to my story! hope this helps
We want Pics, We want Pics ....:GotPics:

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