Supercharged Ls V8

2001LS8Sport said:
I would assume you are using a wide band O2 sensor to check your a/f ratio then?
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Well the only thing I have to go of is a air fuel ratio gauge, Is that ok or is it not a true reading? The only other thing I do is pull the plug to make sure its a chocolate color. I need all the tips I can get.
 
if your gauge is reading off the stock O2 sensors - then that a typical 1v reading - very narrow and slow to react. A 'wide-band' O2 sensor has a much broader range, and is typically faster to react to the readings.

If you are going to tune - do it on a dyno with an a/f sensor hookup and they'll weld in a bung into your exhaust above the cat to screw the wide-band sensor into.
 
Allright, thanks I am trying to get to a dyno this week or weekend. I will let you know how it goes. I am going to record it and I will try to figure out ho to post it.
 
zexls said:
Well the only thing I have to go of is a air fuel ratio gauge, Is that ok or is it not a true reading? The only other thing I do is pull the plug to make sure its a chocolate color. I need all the tips I can get.
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If you're talking about one of those "light show" gauges, I wouldn't trust one of those as far as I could spit it. They really aren't much more than a light show. A wide band gauge is more expensive, requires a bung to be welded into the exhaust for the wide band O2 sensor, and is very quick and accurate.
 
2001LS8Sport said:
If you're talking about one of those "light show" gauges, I wouldn't trust one of those as far as I could spit it. They really aren't much more than a light show. A wide band gauge is more expensive, requires a bung to be welded into the exhaust for the wide band O2 sensor, and is very quick and accurate.
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Yep, there are a few good ones out on the market now too. Innovate makes one called the LC-1 wideband which goes for $200 without the guage. It is a slight PITA to wire up but they are very nice units, especially for the price. Then the dynojet Wideband commander is quite a bit more expensive but comes with the guage and all that, and is more of a kit than the LC-1 is.

You can also set either one of those to ground between a certain A/F range which can be hooked up to activate your nitrous also. Just another way to play things safe with the nitrous so if you do start running lean, the system will automatically shut it off making things that much more safe.

You can hook either one of these units up through the 9 pin Mini-Din analog connector in the top of your Xcal2 units also, so as to take a detailed datalog of many different PID's and also your a/f while indexed to rpm and load.
 
Just remember, a wideband can lie to you just as much as one might think a narrow band is inaccurate.

Any oxygen sensor reads ONLY lack of oxygen. If you have a cylinder thats starting to foul out a plug or some other type of partial misfire, you're wideband can show crazy lean, and you could be rich enough to wash the cylinders... which is going to be just as harmfull, scored cylinders don't last long.

Never trust any one item 100%, EGTs and Widebands have certain lifetimes as they are both chemical. Its best to compare many things, EGT vs WB02 vs. Spark plugs.

Good tip on the copper plugs, they've more than saved a few engines between me and a friend. They are good for showing detonation too if you pull them after a pass, there will be traces of black and white specs, even if its not bad enough to crack the porcelain.
 
Putter-GLHT said:
Just remember, a wideband can lie to you just as much as one might think a narrow band is inaccurate.

Any oxygen sensor reads ONLY lack of oxygen. If you have a cylinder thats starting to foul out a plug or some other type of partial misfire, you're wideband can show crazy lean, and you could be rich enough to wash the cylinders... which is going to be just as harmfull, scored cylinders don't last long.

Never trust any one item 100%, EGTs and Widebands have certain lifetimes as they are both chemical. Its best to compare many things, EGT vs WB02 vs. Spark plugs.

Good tip on the copper plugs, they've more than saved a few engines between me and a friend. They are good for showing detonation too if you pull them after a pass, there will be traces of black and white specs, even if its not bad enough to crack the porcelain.
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damn good point....You need to check your plugs after each run and once you get it all "tuned" then after every bottle
 
Any new dyno dates set? Possible update overall? Btw did i mention you are my hero? haha. No seriously.
 
Hey Quik what are the updates bro? We are going to be old men by the time you get that thing dyno'd. ;)
 
yep - me too - I waiting on more tubing.....

they tried to deliver it but no one was home........ (even though we were home all day)

so I'll pick it up tomorrow and move forward.

I'll post more pics soon.
 
Quik LS said:
they tried to deliver it but no one was home........ (even though we were home all day)
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Hmmm, let me guess....UPS??? They do the SAME thing to me too! :mad: Retards don't know how to knock on a door? :D
 
I just had some parts delivered from UPS. I knew they were coming and seen him pass my home and he was on his way out and I was able to catch him at another place up the street asked if he had my stuff on the truck and sure enough he did. Not so much as a sorry about that or a thanks for catching up to me.


Hey on another note. I amabout to to use a an Aramid Thermal Isolating gasket on my G35 and a valve to block the coolant from flowing through the throttle body and a spacer between my upper and lower intakes to increase the air volume. I was wondering if anyone has tried this with the LS V8 or V6.

The G35 and Z cars have been getting great results with this combo.
 
eL eS said:
Hey on another note. I amabout to to use a an Aramid Thermal Isolating gasket on my G35 and a valve to block the coolant from flowing through the throttle body and a spacer between my upper and lower intakes to increase the air volume. I was wondering if anyone has tried this with the LS V8 or V6.

The G35 and Z cars have been getting great results with this combo.
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I have done this to the LS - not using those parts - but I cutoff the block outlet nipple, filled the hole with JB Weld, and then deleted the return line from the new cooling lines I created. So there is no throttle body lines anymore.

one of the best parts is the you can remove the intake without draining coolant.
 
Quik LS said:
one of the best parts is the you can remove the intake without draining coolant.
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I know what a paint in the arse that is. Living in Florida and surely Texas as well I never seen the merits of the heating the TB but our northern friends I could see the benefit. This stuff I am doing is going one step farther by insulating the full intake plenum to prevent heat transfer.

The addition of the spacer and a slightly modified lower intake brings 15more hP and some 18 lb ft of torque and oyu wont even be able to tell the car has been modified. Total stealth.

I need a few years before I go the SC route but it is coming.
 
just joined LVC, nice work quick with the sc. I will more than likely want a kit if you put one together.
 
how your hood clearance? I can make you a raised top for the blower top .
also is your blower ported . i do blower porting and since you are the leader of the blower install here I can offer you a good deal on a D port and modifiy your inlet plenum and port blower and raised top for shipping cost + 430 materials .

I really want to see this project take off . looks good or do you do your own work if so m90s like porting my porting increases mid rpm power .

the raised top lets more air flow and lowers out let temps .

are you running a intercooler? if no room try a pre cooler it will keep the temps down cooler air is power. a buddy of mine does water cooled blowers he winds alluminum tube around blower case and has braught down blower case heat by some 30 deg email me
mannysc@msn.com lets talk .

http://community.webshots.com/user/mannysc

a.JPG
 
gixxerboi said:
wat happen? hows it going?
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waiting on a few pieces - should be here tomorrow - hoping to put a big weekend in on finishing the intercooler install and bolting it all back together.
 
Hey mannysc - I see your posts on SCCoA all the time. I lurk there learning more about my setup and grabbing parts when I can.....

mannysc said:
how your hood clearance?
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tight tight tight.

as you see in the last picture here -> http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showpost.php?p=127671&postcount=65 I can get everything tucked in (this was before the intercooler piping) but only by a hair.


mannysc said:
are you running a intercooler?
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the install should be finished this weekend. here is a pic of a couple of weekends ago -> http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showpost.php?p=127671&postcount=65


I'm working with Geoff Knight of BoostHead.com - he's a great guy and ports the casings all the time. The M90 I'm using right now is from him with a 'mild' porting he did during the rebuild.

It will be a long time (IMHO) before we need to look at making more power - I'm already over the boost levels we initially planned for.

My goal is to get the car on the road, tuned, dynoed and then look to the trannie and read-end. The car really needs a LSD.

there are no aftermarket internal available yet (that I know of) so we are stuck at the limits of what the stock lowerend can handle.

You're differently a good contact to tap as we move this to the next levels. I'll also be looking for some nice 'polished' and ported plenums and SC to add a little bling factor and pick up some efficiency once we get it rolling.
 
Hey Qick, Would like to know where you got that Strut bar for your LS?

Thanks
Leo
 
made it.

bought off e-bay - 93-96 Mazda RX7 RX-7 Front Strut Brace Bar and a 95-98 Infiniti I30 Front Strut Tower Brace and built, cut and bent to fit.

It's more for show than useful - since the LS already has a strut brace.
 
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