Suspension overhaul

L_King

L_King

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So I'm about to hit 90k and I'm thinking it is time to go through the suspension. I am getting some some pretty audible rattles and occasional pops here and there. Plus being lowered with the wheels doesn't help.

My question to you all is does anyone know part numbers for the various suspension parts and a good source to get them. Maybe in searching wrong but I'm not having the best of luck so far.

Was thinking of doing:
Struts(mounts and bellows as well)
Say bar end links
Tie rods. Inner and outer
Ball joints
Rear adjustable links
And anything else I can get my hands on.

Any contributions would be great, and hopefully this could be a source for others in the future.
 
I did all those components from Rockauto. Good prices, quality parts. Start with tierods and ball jo &ints but buy the arms with the ball joints already pressed in the aluminum arms! The sway bar links front/rear are simple replacements. Complete brake system inspection important. Struts etc if ride indicates bad struts etc. Smart to do front end components all at the same time so you do only 1 front end alignment, like I did. I purchased the tie rods and ball joint arms and had n independent front end alignment shop install them and do the alignment. I installed the new front/rear links and sway bar bushings & brake pads all around. I had the brake system & radiator cooling system power flushed also. Car had 95k miles on it. Since sold. Got a fully loaded Honda Accord, no more pesky maintenance on the LS. Spent $9,ooo in 20 months replacing every part that is always failing by others on this site but the tranny solenoid. The complete PVC system replacement is also recommended. Good luck! Welcome to a good forum. Listen to joeger, very knowledgeable!
 
What ever you do, do NOT buy Upper Control Arms for the rears from Tasca, they'll send you one OEM and one non-OEM, in a FORD re-stapled box, then provide lip service that the knock-off looking UCA is probably, most likely an alternate approved part from another supplier/manufacturer. You'd think someone would send you two the same UCA's as a pair. Fn bullsh!t :mad:

Last money I spend there,
not to mention my CC info got leaked and hit, had to get new card number.
 
what might this project run in terms of cost? are you going to replace with OEM stuff or try to alter the ride quality with aftermarket?
 
illyc said:
what might this project run in terms of cost? are you going to replace with OEM stuff or try to alter the ride quality with aftermarket?
Click to expand...

Aftermarket shocks, at least Monroe, SUCK! I've heard Bilstein are about as good as OEM. IMHO, were you to replace everything with new, you're looking in the thousands. The only things replaced on my daughter's 2000 LS with 183K miles were shocks and lower ball joints. The OE parts seem to last quite a while. The boots on the upper ball joints have been torn for years; I just squirted some Shoe Goo over the tear and that's held for the last 8+ years. Caveat emptor......... We live in the land of perpetual sunshine and have no real winter......
 
I want to replace everything with oem, or a step up if I can find it. Only thing for sure aftermarket will be the eibachs. Still have to look in to pricing.
 
L King look on amazon for front air suspension conversion kit for $347 from strutmasters.com. The whole strut spring Eibach and shock with rubber top mount. I am planning to replace all suspension parts as I approach 150k on my 2000 LS
 
no offence, but I'm not buying anything from a company that seems to not know much about our car...



" 2003-2006 Lincoln LS 4-Wheel Air Suspension Conversion Kit is the perfect solution to your air suspension problems."


interesting that they would make a kit to convert your car FROM air ride to springs for a car that never had air ride to begin with...
 
Well not sure if they had a typo for "air conversion" heck the local auto parts place looks up parts on computer and does not know what parts are compatible. In the old days 60s-70s the counter guy knew off the top of his head what part or sizes fit what and what years cars changed their parts but I digress:confused: but the other option seen on this forum was the stance struts but pricey at $1100 for a pair. I did like the idea that the whole strut as a package, spring, shock strut etc
 
Don't forget to check the front wheel bearings. My RF one was bad. New one was $80 and took me about 30 min to replace. My LR LCA was also very bad. Took about 60 min to replace it.
 
You guys that changed the upper control arms, did you really have to remove the shocks and brake reservoir? Alldata says 2 hours labour for both sides; if that's the case I may just pay to have it done!!
 
LS4me said:
You guys that changed the upper control arms, did you really have to remove the shocks and brake reservoir? Alldata says 2 hours labour for both sides; if that's the case I may just pay to have it done!!
Click to expand...

Shocks...need to be removed or the bolts won't come all the way out. Degas bottle...needs to be loose, not removed. Brake booster....doesn't need to be removed.
 
Oh..... Just how bad is it? How much time should I allow? How many wrenches out of 5? As "bad" as changing the shocks?

So many questions.... TIA!!!
 
Placing my bet now on that it will turn on ya!
Couple of days of Moovit penetration fluid on it each day before beginning the work.
 
BigRigLS said:
Placing my bet now on that it will turn on ya!
Couple of days of Moovit penetration fluid on it each day before beginning the work.
Click to expand...

We don't have a rust issue here... The bolts look like new...
 
ah yes, forgot about that. Lucky you, no harsh winters,
no salt on the roads, must be nice. good luck w/ UCA re&re. take pics!
 
LS4me said:
We don't have a rust issue here... The bolts look like new...
Click to expand...

I'm not gonna lie, all mechanics in the peoples republic should charge half as much since they don't know the pains of rusted screws/bolts ...
 
Not much of a rust problem here in Florida either.
 
Done!! It took my daughter and I (yup, her car, she helps!!) just under 4 1/2 hours start to out of the shower. I was able to do the job without removing anything in the engine bay. I tried loosening the bolt from inside the shock pocket. Apparently "they" don't want it done that way. I couldn't keep the socket on the head. It seems the only way to remove the arm is to remove the nuts in the engine bay. The shock (and the stabilizer bar links) does have to come out. Also, don't tighten the control arm bolts until last.
 
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