TIME-SENSITIVE ISSUE: 2004 LS is Stalling/Burnt Smell/Left Me Stranded!

Heh heh, he thinks it's hot now he's gonna DIE when he does an August run and it's hotter at 2AM than it is now at 2PM. I loved the year I lived at Augusta GA, all you really needed was a fan in the window to sleep like a baby.

Oh my ! you must REALLY be heat tolerant !!!
75 deg i got the window fan on.
85 deg the air cond on !! :)
where you located ?
i'm in NH seacoast.
 
I'm a minority around here since I bought my '02 LS Sport new. I had a battery issue several years ago and had to get a jump to get home. I had a cut tire once. My car hasn't been back to the dealer since I got my last free oil change at 40K miles and I now have 155K. My car has been dead reliable and it's been thrashed to the extent of ECTA competition several years ago. I still hold one of the four national records I set at that time. Nay-sayers should suck an egg.;););)

KS

LOL...that's certainly good to know!!! Thanks for the input :D
 
Update on the 2004 LS:

My brother installed the EGR valve and O-rings, reset the codes, and took off for a family emergency without really checking to see if the LS would run without stalling.

When my husband got home from work, he ran the LS at idle, and it stalled, but it started right back up. It stalled another time, and started right back up again.

We have not had a chance to drive it around to test it out because we had to go out of town the next day and just got back home, but after he fixes the faulty driver-seat controls that would not allow the back rest to come forward and puts it all back together, we'll be able to hopefully finalize the issue.

If it continues to stall out, we'll try the "new battery" suggestion and go from there.

It's a beautiful vehicle. My sister and brother-in-law maintained it well and kept it in immaculate condition, so I am praying that my husband can get it running properly so that we can finally enjoy driving it!
 
Oh my ! you must REALLY be heat tolerant !!!
75 deg i got the window fan on.
85 deg the air cond on !! :)
where you located ?
i'm in NH seacoast.

Oklahoma. While the heat bothers me a bit more than it used to (I weigh about 40lbs more than I did when I lived in Augusta), I don't get concerned until it hits over 100. A couple of days ago I was on my land with a chainsaw taking out some trees in preparation for my new house, 95 degrees out. We keep the house in the 70s year round, but back then we didn't even turn the house AC on until it hit the mid 90s. Just opened the windows and turned on the fans.

Cold, on the other hand, absolutely kills me although once again, not as much as it did when I was younger and less insulated. :p
 
... but after he fixes the faulty driver-seat controls that would not allow the back rest to come forward and puts it all back together, ...

You'll be really lucky if it is just the "controls." Most (perhaps "all") of the time, that problem comes from the seat back assembly being broken and the solution is to replace the seat.
 
You'll be really lucky if it is just the "controls." Most (perhaps "all") of the time, that problem comes from the seat back assembly being broken and the solution is to replace the seat.

Hi Joe,

The seat back assembly is in working order, but he found that the control box on the left lower side is not working and will be replacing that as soon as he can find one.

Thanks for the input!
 
Oh-kayyyyy...While my husband was working on the seat yesterday, he fired up the LS and let it idle. After a short bit, it stalled. He was able to crank it a few times, let it idle, with it stalling out each time. After the fourth try, the engine would turn over but it would not start. Each time he tried again, it would turn over, but nothing happened...letting it rest a few before each additional try.

So...though we replaced the EGR valve and reset the codes, it still has this "stalling during idling" issue. Anyone have any insight they can share to help us troubleshoot this particular problem?

It's seems to be having this issue when the engine is warmed up, not cold. He does not think it is a faulty battery. Is there anyone who has had this problem and found the solution???
 
See if you can start it by holding the gas pedal all the way to the floor.
See if it will stop stalling if you unplug the MAF sensor.
 
See if you can start it by holding the gas pedal all the way to the floor.
See if it will stop stalling if you unplug the MAF sensor.

Hi Joe,

I found the thread that "Broseph" posted back in January of 2014. The issues he mentioned are about exactly the same as the problems we are having.

My husband removed the MAF, the LS was idling for a few minutes, the RPMs accelerated, then the car stalled.

If the MAF sensor is bad, would the car still stall when it is removed?
 
Hi Joe,

I found the thread that "Broseph" posted back in January of 2014. The issues he mentioned are about exactly the same as the problems we are having.

My husband removed the MAF, the LS was idling for a few minutes, the RPMs accelerated, then the car stalled.

If the MAF sensor is bad, would the car still stall when it is removed?

Most likely not. (Even if this test had worked, it could have been an air leak instead of a bad MAF.)
I think it's time to measure fuel pressure and/or connect a scan tool with live readings and start checking them to see what's going on when it stalls.
 
Most likely not. (Even if this test had worked, it could have been an air leak instead of a bad MAF.)
I think it's time to measure fuel pressure and/or connect a scan tool with live readings and start checking them to see what's going on when it stalls.

My brother hooked up "scan software" to the LS a couple of weeks ago and only got a reading of a bad EGR valve...which has been replaced. There were no other codes that popped up with the type of software he used...which I do not know the brand.

Can you recommend a good DIYers "scan tool" and "code reader" that would do the job.
 
Most likely not. (Even if this test had worked, it could have been an air leak instead of a bad MAF.)
I think it's time to measure fuel pressure and/or connect a scan tool with live readings and start checking them to see what's going on when it stalls.

My husband just said they checked the fuel pressure last week, and it seemed to be doing pretty good...up around 60 lbs.
 
My husband just said they checked the fuel pressure last week, and it seemed to be doing pretty good...up around 60 lbs.

While it was stalling?
60 is just above the maximum. It should be no more than 55 PSI engine off. It should be less than 55 with the engine idling. It can go as low as 30 PSI. The sensor for the fuel pressure is at the end of the rail. The PCM reads the pressure and sends commands back to the REM to slow down or speed up the fuel pump as needed to keep it in the correct range. Make sure the vacuum hose connected to the fuel pressure sensor is good and has full vacuum at idle.
 
While it was stalling?
60 is just above the maximum. It should be no more than 55 PSI engine off. It should be less than 55 with the engine idling. It can go as low as 30 PSI. The sensor for the fuel pressure is at the end of the rail. The PCM reads the pressure and sends commands back to the REM to slow down or speed up the fuel pump as needed to keep it in the correct range. Make sure the vacuum hose connected to the fuel pressure sensor is good and has full vacuum at idle.

The pressure fluctuated but not sure what it was when it stalled. He'll test it again and said "thank you" for all of the good information and will check the hoses as soon as he gets a chance.
 
Fuel/Air/Spark
One of these isn't right.
Is there any hint of a misfire? How about at stall?
Pull the spark plugs. Do they look rich, lean, etc?
Check the short term fuel trims.
Do you have any freeze frame data on your OBDII scanner?
Can you get the battery tested at autozone or another shop?
 
Fuel/Air/Spark
One of these isn't right.
Is there any hint of a misfire? How about at stall?
Pull the spark plugs. Do they look rich, lean, etc?
Check the short term fuel trims.
Do you have any freeze frame data on your OBDII scanner?
Can you get the battery tested at autozone or another shop?

Thanks, Stumpy, for the input. We're working on it again today. An acquaintance from work had about the same type of trouble with his Ford truck and found that the "engine cylinder head temperature sensor" was bad. Not sure if that might be the problem, but my husband found that part to be "loose" and is trouble-shooting some other issues.

I'll give him the info you suggested and will post when we see some progress.

Thanks everyone for your help! We GREATLY appreciate it!!!
 
BTW...I've been checking out company "brands" on these sensors and would appreciate any advice on which one has the overall best ratings for durability, performance, and customer service...

1) Standard
2) AC Delco
3) Delphi
4) Motocraft OE
5) 4-Seasons OE

...or any other brands that have stood the "test of time".
 
I haven't replaced any head temperature sensors, so I can't say very specifically.
1. Don't know.
2. Should be good.
3. Should be good, I have a Delphi Alternator in my Ranger.
4. Should be the safest bet.
5. I have heard a lot of bad about them.
 
I haven't replaced any head temperature sensors, so I can't say very specifically.
1. Don't know.
2. Should be good.
3. Should be good, I have a Delphi Alternator in my Ranger.
4. Should be the safest bet.
5. I have heard a lot of bad about them.

UPDATE:

While waiting on my brother to come by with his "scan/code" computer software, Mike had found the location of the "engine cylinder head temperature sensor" and disconnected it to take a look. The top of the sensor seemed a bit "rubbery" and "loose". He was not sure if it was suppose to be that way. He replaced the sensor then rev'd the engine up to 1500 rpms and let it run steady at that rate for 30 minutes. He then let it "idle" to see if it would stall out. It idled for another 30 minutes with no stalling. Without shutting it off, he turned on the A/C at 95 degrees in the shade, and it sat there idling for almost 50 minutes without stalling.

Since disconnecting the sensor and replacing it might have helped the LS somehow to stop stalling while idling, we have ordered a BWD "cylinder head temperature sensor" from Advanced Auto Parts and will be replacing that in a few days.

My brother has not arrived yet to test anything via the computer, so we'll wait to see what that has to show as well.

The "burnt smell" should dissipate since he replaced the IMTV O-rings that were leaking...hopefully...and though it might not have been the actual problem but showed up on my brother's first attempt at diagnosing the problems...the LS has a new EGR valve as well.

We'll keep everyone posted on the progress. Hopefully, the information will help others as well.
 
I haven't replaced any head temperature sensors, so I can't say very specifically.
1. Don't know.
2. Should be good.
3. Should be good, I have a Delphi Alternator in my Ranger.
4. Should be the safest bet.
5. I have heard a lot of bad about them.

Oh...also, Joe...

"4-Seasons" apparently is a subsidiary company of Standard Motor Products that is based in Europe (France).

I researched "Standard" auto parts, and there are some good reviews online focused on their "American" based companies. Apparently, SMP has "private labels" as well, including BWD...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Standard_Motor_Products

Thanks again for the input!
 
On the sensors specified I'd use either Motorcraft or Delphi. They will cost more but you'll get sensors made for the car. AC Delco has been offshoring to China, and the Four Seasons is one of those "one size fits none". Not sure on the Standard.
 
On the sensors specified I'd use either Motorcraft or Delphi. They will cost more but you'll get sensors made for the car. AC Delco has been offshoring to China, and the Four Seasons is one of those "one size fits none". Not sure on the Standard.

Thanks. Advanced Auto Parts said that the sensor would be from "BWD". As I stated above, through research, I found that BWD is a "private label" company associated with Standard Motor Products. Though Standard's European subsidiary company based in France, "4-Seasons", does not seem to be extremely reliable, their parts sold here in the States get good comments on various "review" websites.

I guess we'll see how the BWD sensor holds up...if that is actually the foundational issue with the "stalling while idling" and "stalling while accelerating from a decreased speed or complete stop".
 
Ladybird, was Mike able to replace the IMTV O-rings at the back without having the take the entire intake off?
Glad you got this problem solved, nothing worse the driving around with burning oil smell coming through the vents.

Good on you and your hubby for getting at all of this, sounds/looks like it's in good hands and getting up to par.


+1


BTW: time to share a pic of that LS with us soon?
 
Ladybird, was Mike able to replace the IMTV O-rings at the back without having the take the entire intake off?
Glad you got this problem solved, nothing worse the driving around with burning oil smell coming through the vents.

Good on you and your hubby for getting at all of this, sounds/looks like it's in good hands and getting up to par.


+1


BTW: time to share a pic of that LS with us soon?

Hi Big Rig,

Yes, actually my brother was the one who did the work on the O-rings and was able to put them in without having to take off the entire intake. The smell has begun to dissipate, thank goodness!

I'll get a picture of the LS on the forum as soon as I can. Thanks for checking in with us! Greatly appreciate it!
 

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