Transmission E. Awesome.

So, got the parts in today (except the filter/gasket kit was missing), and before I get them installed, I'm wondering if there is something I can check regarding the pcm to make sure that isn't the issue. I just keep thinking that when swapping the pcm for the used one, if a pin got bent or was corroded or something. Figure that may be worth a check in case I need to return the parts.
 
pektel said:
So, got the parts in today (except the filter/gasket kit was missing), and before I get them installed, I'm wondering if there is something I can check regarding the pcm to make sure that isn't the issue. I just keep thinking that when swapping the pcm for the used one, if a pin got bent or was corroded or something. Figure that may be worth a check in case I need to return the parts.
Click to expand...

The gasket is reusable.
 
I think I had the same codes on an explorer years ago and tried a solenoid pack without luck. Could be different but the incorrect ratio tones ring a bell for sure.
I would double check and run some pinpoint tests if you have them available before putting in the "Non returnable electronic part"

Usually the "Incorrect Ratio" part of the code as I remember was leaning towards a transmission slip but its pretty hard to stall test 4th or 5th without downshifting but you can do it in reverse.

According to the clutch/band application chart I found here

http://www.ratiotek.com/5r55w-complete.pdf

4th and 5th share the direct clutch along with reverse which, if a slip was occuring, could be tested by power braking in reverse and observing RPMs (Not going to make it any better if it is slipping by doing this though)

Good luck
 
Check Twice, Pay once ;)
Well the same can be said for the direct clutch regardless of the int. clutch/band differnce. But the solenoid code could just be the dead giveaway.
 
Yep. Picked her up on Friday afternoon. They installed both valve body and solenoid pack. I didn't get the shift kit because the shop didn't really want to install it, and it would've taken too long to get anyways.

Drove it about 300 miles this weekend, and all is well.
 
Thanks! That was the good news. The bad news? The mechanic cracked my bumper (probably issues with lowered vehicle + lift) and claims it didn't happen there. Also ripped my frost king lip. Now I gotta go spend another $15 bucks on a new one lol.
 
That sucks!

It's sad when people have to expect that something like that would be the norm instead of the mechanic owning up to it and offering to take care of it. Customer service has deteriorated quite a bit from "the customer is always right, or keeping the customer happy" to ensure they'll come back or help bring new business in.
 
Yep, that's the first and last time I use that shop. They came highly regarded, and were very helpful mechanic-wise, but the way they won't own up to the damage speaks for their ethics.
 
Well its sad but its had to prove they did it too ya know?
Its the old yes you did no I didnt.

On a different note ya know what sucks to get on hoist worse than lowered cars?

Minivans with running boards! OMFG!
 
like How low do they need it? THeir minivan is only 6 inches off the ground to start! Now its 4 inches and you have to put all the hoist arm blocks up on the inside to reach the subframe rails.
Old People...
 
Here's the damage:

IMG_1325.jpg


IMG_1327.jpg
 
I just lowered my LS and just put a new LSE bumper on it. Im very worried this is going to happen. I dropped my car of to get new tires and when i came back my bumper was within a inch of hitting the curb.
 
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