Transmission rebuild and still having issues

Well by the original symptoms and condition of the fluid, (and knowing the fluid from the factory was missing an additive), the tranny still needed a rebuild.
 
Well by the original symptoms and condition of the fluid, (and knowing the fluid from the factory was missing an additive), the tranny still needed a rebuild.
Yeah, I have no doubt about that. I just think I could have possibly gotten by a little longer if I had actually replaced the valve body before having it rebuilt. I think if the valve body is bad then that played a major role in the failure.

Since I replaced that solenoid one month or so before the rebuild am I safe to use that one still with the new valve body?
 
Should be, (notice I say "should"). I would think they would have flushed that out with some sort of degreaser before reinstallation.
I may just let it sit for another week and save up for a new solenoid pack just to be sure. This crap has me nervous, to say the least. I am going to try to make them at least eat the cost of the labor in doing this crap since I have a transmission warranty and if they did not do this crap during the rebuild then they need to pony up and do it now if I provide the correct parts.
 
So basically... while the tranny was actually having issues originally... the new symptom after the rebuild... is "shift flare"... correct???
Correct. And I even had them replace the Transmission Range Sensor during their rebuild because I had a spare new OEM one for my previous LS that I had never gotten around to installing! I knew how them things can have issues on the older LS and since I had a brand new part I said use it please!
 
Well if the TRS is slightly out of adjustment... it's possible (maybe) that it is the issue... but I would consider that a "Hail Mary" fix.

The TRS not only controls the solenoid pack... it (indirecty through the PCM) reads the throttle position at the pedal and throttle body.

Joe will correct me if I'm wrong about that, (or if it's more complicated than that)
 
Well if the TRS is slightly out of adjustment... it's possible (maybe) that it is the issue... but I would consider that a "Hail Mary" fix.

The TRS not only controls the solenoid pack... it (indirecty through the PCM) reads the throttle position at the pedal and throttle body.

Joe will correct me if I'm wrong about that, (or if it's more complicated than that)
I am going to call them tomorrow but they said they checked that on their 500-mile check and it was in line. I am going to go to another shop first before calling them just to be sure they got it right. I am trying to get a 2nd set of eyes at another trusted shop in town before I call so I can have all my ducks in a row.
 
I am going to call them tomorrow but they said they checked that on their 500-mile check and it was in line. I am going to go to another shop first before calling them just to be sure they got it right. I am trying to get a 2nd set of eyes at another trusted shop in town before I call so I can have all my ducks in a row.

Sounds like a good idea.
 
Sounds like a good idea.
But if I find out the dang valve body didn't get addressed then the car is going to stay parked till that is replaced as I don't want to doom this transmission right off the bat. I would have a lot more mileage on it than the 700 miles if I felt safe driving it! But I cringe inside each time it flares! I will say though driving it harder has less of a flare, but it does have one still.
 
But if I find out the dang valve body didn't get addressed then the car is going to stay parked till that is replaced as I don't want to doom this transmission right off the bat. I would have a lot more mileage on it than the 700 miles if I felt safe driving it! But I cringe inside each time it flares! I will say though driving it harder has less of a flare, but it does have one still.

Then that might be an issue with the cable and/or TRS. I say "might be".
 
Then that might be an issue with the cable and/or TRS. I say "might be".
I would much rather it be the cable or TRS than anything inside of that transmission that they just did! But still would have a new valve body installed before I drove anymore if it never got done. I don't want to have issues later on down the road that could have been prevented in the first place. And I am even looking at that Sonnax upgraded solenoid pack if I buy their valve body.
 
Well if the band adjustment is the issue... it is an external adjustment.

Still a total PITA though... even with dropping the trans part way.
 
Well I recorded a couple videos... showing how the LS should shift under light and moderate acceleration.

Unfortunately the file size is to big to upload... and I'm not sure it wouldn't just show up as a picture anyway.
 
I called them this morning and they claim they rebuilt the valve body. I also went to another shop and had them drive it and they noticed the issue I was describing at around the 2,000 rpm range to 2,500 rpm's And it happens a lot worse when driving the car at slower acceleration. They noticed the issues going from 2nd into 3rd and 3rd into 4th. I am going to a couple more shops tomorrow and seeing if they can pinpoint what the issue is and then I am going to take it back to the place that rebuilt it and make them sort it out.
 
I still think the bands need adjusted.

The bands grab and stop the internal drums from rotating... so that different clutch packs can disengage and engage. That's how you get the different gears as the transmission shifts. That's a very oversimplified explanation.
 
Well, a little bit of an update. Last week I decided to order a replacement Mass Airflow Sensor and it came in today and decided to give it a try and see if it made any difference in the way the car would drive and believe it or not it made a major difference! I have had 0 Flares now since changing that! I drove her on a good 30-mile drive tonight after changing that and so far so good! I had one mechanic that told me to change it just to see if it could make any difference and it indeed does seem they might have been right! Crazy if that fixes it considering I had 0 codes for the MAF! But maybe it was borderline! And I know it was clean cause I cleaned it right after a mechanic made that suggestion to me! If this really did fix my issue I will be very happy indeed.
 
Hey Dale,
I feel your pain on this..
I'm not a Transmission guy at all!
If you found the problem great!!!

I couldn't respond to the earlier threads while I was driving... I didn't know if the verbiage in my 2005 LS Owner's Manual (Page 234) had anything to do with it or not in summary " This vehicle is equipped with an Adaptive Transmission Shit Strategy. When the battery is disconnected for any type of service / repair the transmission will need to relearn these operating parameters. This learning process could take several transmission upshifts / downshifts during the learning process, slightly firmer shits may occur. After this learning process, normal shift feel and shift scheduling will resume"

I don't who designed these cars.. It's like it was done in silos.. e.g. one group didn't know what the other was working on and at the end they built temporary integration hot fixes to resolve the issues to move the product out the door!
 

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