Turbo kit thread

Oops.

I'm changing the exhaust this Saturday so I have to get a sound clip that morning for a before an after.
 
your new exhaust system, should just be a hole in the front bumper, right next to the snail...


EDIT: sorry, forgot you were in the peoples republik...
 
1LoudLS said:
interesting enough, there seems to be a lot of people (not really sure I am a fan of this ideal) now saying that there isn't a need for a "break in period" and after running for an hour or so to make sure there are not any problems right away, they say to immediately start running the engine hard as it will wear in everything a lot faster... and is (in theory) better since everything is not taking as long to wear in. my concern with that is that if there is a problem, then its probably going to destroy something (or a lot of somethings). their argument is that if it was put together wrong, then it would show right away and would still cause damage and would need to be torn apart to be repaired anyways..
Click to expand...

This may be different with a Mod Motor, (and boost) but when i broke in the 347 in my Mustang, I went thru all the gears under acceleration (not real hard) and also let the engine drag itself down, while shifting down thru the gears and my rings were seated in no time, the constant pressure to the rings even on decel is beneficial.
347's are known for being smokers because the oil ring meets with the wrist pin hole, after my initial break in, it never smoked. I used Brad Penn break-in specific oil, to help guard the camshaft during break-in.

After my initial break in, i changed the oil immediately, then 300 miles, then went directly to Royal Purple. I never took it easy on that Engine, except the first break-in because i was afraid to hurt the camshaft. I set a soft rev limiter at 5k during the first 500 miles, and after that i removed it, That car had no problem eating corvettes, and making the owners flick me off when they finally caught up.

The only initial problems i encountered was the MSD distributor was shimmed improperly from the factory, and chattered loudly. I also had to swap out a set of roller rockers because the cheap set i initially used started to walk and rub the studs, after that it was perfect.

So i approve of the drive it like you stole it break in procedure, like you i was skeptical, but i was also excited to experiment and prove traditional theory wrong. Remember materials and procedures were far less advanced when engine break-in procedures were created for traditional V8's etc.
 
"slow break-ins make for slow SHOs" has been a saying for years, decades even.
get out there and drive it. after the engine has reached operating temp of course.
 
Well I got the oil changed. Went under boost and nothing popped so thats good news. Drove her back another 320 miles out of LA. She's running lean, probably due to the old tune for stock compression vs my lowered compression. I think the motor is now a 4.0L instead of the stock 3.9L with the changes, was also told it is now a "squared motor". I forgot exactly what lengths were the same but something with stroke was equal to some other length, maybe you guys know . My exhaust shop closes Saturdays which I didn't know and it is the only day I can take it in so I'll have to see if they will go in to work on my exhaust on a sat. That means I have more time to get an exhaust video before the changes
 
"Square" should mean the stroke is equal to bore (piston diameter). The stock 3.9 has 85mm stroke and 86mm bore. The Jag 4.0 has a square 86mm stroke and bore.

(pi*bore^2/4)*(stroke)*(# cylinders)=displacement. It's just circle area * height *#cylinders. If using millimeters, divide the result by 1,000,000 to convert cubic millimeters to liters. If measured in inches, your result will be in cubic inches. There are 61 cubic inches in 1 liter

86x85=3.95L (LS 3.9)
86 square = 3.99L (Jag 4.0)
 
Well thanks that info, bore=stroke it is.

I installed the boost controller without the solenoid valve so it is just acting as a boost gauge right now. I just have to soldier back the cut wires, the connector didn't fit through the grommet, then just add it in between the waste gate another day.

Everything is coming together, finally.
 
Picture of boost controller/boost gauge

uploadfromtaptalk1450905440337.jpg
 
Yeah it comes on here and there because I'm running lean
 
It does too exist or this has been a 4 year troll haha. Might need new 02 sensors, will check that out this weekend. 02 wideband is on the way as well. Still waiting to find a weekend shop to do my exhaust and can get it tuned. I'm just gently cruising, not doing boost but the forged pistons should hold until I get it tuned. The car has to be beaten at least once while its lean under full throttle to map the engine and tune it.
 
Exhaust is currently being worked on. Had to drive an hour to find this shop. I tried shooting a quick start up idle video right before coming here, hopefully it caught enough sound but it was pretty windy
 
Alax7 said:
The car has to be beaten at least once while its lean under full throttle to map the engine and tune it.
Click to expand...

No, it doesn't. Running rich turbo is a little bad, but running lean turbo is so bad for the engine that a competent tuner will build the initial tune too rich and slowly lean it out, not start it too lean and richen it up. If your tuner isn't already doing this, you have the wrong tuner. All you might risk with an overrich tune is washing down the cylinders. At worst you'd have to hit the cylinder walls with a honing wheel and installing new rings. Run it lean and you will very likely melt down the pistons and need a new engine.
 
Ah, Good to know, thanks will definitely ask about that.
Tuning appointment has been made. If all goes well, 12+psi tuned Turbo LS running the streets in two weeks :cool:
 
why do I feel like we will see a video of a venom F5 making mad boost on the streets before an LS? :rolleyes:

J/K, hope the duno session goes well, cant wait to see it.
 
What would be considered mad boost? I was told the pistons/rods we're good to 18-ish psi. I was advised not to go more than 12 for now, next weak link would be the transmission? Regardless, whatever breaks next from the increase in boost will get upgraded when it does break, too much time and money invested in this to not see it through!
 
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