oddball
Dedicated LVC Member
On my 2002, with a scan tool attached before and after my fan swap, and all the cooling parts have been replaced. Seems high to me, too.
V8 Hydraulic to electric fan for $100. Taurus fan, Volvo controller, BMW temp switch.
- Thread starter girlfriendsls
- Start date
On my 2002, with a scan tool attached before and after my fan swap, and all the cooling parts have been replaced. Seems high to me, too.
oddball
Dedicated LVC Member
The expectation is that the PCM will complain when the alternator doesn't behave as it expects and will throw the charging system error code. It's been a few years since we had those threads, so I can't recall if someone has tried. I think someone did, though.
My hydraulic pump and fan went out about 4 months ago..it would have been wayyyy too expensive to replace the factory items..so I went with the elec fan conversion on my 00 along with radiator, a/c lines..(Midas Muffler broke all of the existing lines trying to do the conversion..they killed themselves eating the parts and labor to install all new lines..took them 14 damn days to do the job...wtf. Have had no issues since the replacement...fan runs the entire time the ignition is turned on..and there is a noticeable increase in power without the hydraulic pump in anymore. Fan noise is noticeable..but with the K&N filter and custom exhaust..it kinda fits in..lmao. Sounds like a mini jet waiting to take off..
It took them 14 days and there is nothing controlling the fan? I hope you didn't to pay too much.
Just replacing the radiator was $600..the costs for the fan conversion was $800 and then they had to tackle the replacement of the a/c lines that they totally broke. The original lines were obviously old, but they had to eat the cost for the repair, plus reimburse me for the insane car rental fees..the electrical fan is somehow tied in to the monitoring system for the original fan..I just don't know the technical aspects of the work done.
oddball
Dedicated LVC Member
WOW.
Those prices are insane.
I'd recommend inspecting that fan control pretty quick. It is not a basic 'plug'n'play'.
Those prices are insane.
I'd recommend inspecting that fan control pretty quick. It is not a basic 'plug'n'play'.
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
I haven't tried to go back and find it, but when all the HO alternator stuff was being discussed here several years ago, I have a vague memory that what was necessary was some sort of change in the alternator that wasn't there in the HO replacement units. Does anyone have a better memory than mine in this regard?
KS
KS
girlfriendsls
LVC Member
Status Update - The LS has been running fine since January with a stock alternator and Taurus electric fan. Granted, it also has a stock stereo. No problems with charging or overheating.
hite337
Hite Performance
I was told by Wrangler (IIRC) that the OEM regulator (or stator?) must be used in the HO alt but that doesnt make sense because the PCM controls the alt output. I am eventually going to install a second alt in place of my factory hydraulic fan pump. This will be dedicated to my amps and cooling fan only
3.9-LS
Active LVC Member
I used a 17A 16" 398 Flex-a-lite fan and a Derale 16759 controller. I mounted it to the ABS bracket. Power wire went straight down to the Alternator, ground to block, and switched power to the wire that went to the old fan pump. A 30A fuse was included with my controller.
girlfriendsls
LVC Member
I just used whatever fusible link was attached to the Taurus fan from the junkyard. Not sure on specs, but if it worked on the Taurus... I used a 40amp Ford relay for power.
girlfriendsls
LVC Member
Well, it took two months, but the battery finally drained low enough to kill the car using a stock 110 amp alternator and a Taurus fan (Bring on the I told you so's). It must have been really close to take that long. I installed a 200 amp alternator with a small pulley so it charges at lower RPM. It now has the expected PCM controlled voltage problem with the lights getting bright when first accelerating from a stop, but then goes back to normal. I also installed an O'Reilly Super Start Extreme AGM battery.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
You're headed for grief here. A working stock alternator can handle the fan, especially if your front heated seats are no longer heated.
Johnny Football
LVC Member
This kinda like the set-up on my foxbody. I am getting away from the relays though and going with a dcc controller on it.
girlfriendsls
LVC Member
It was a recently rebuilt stock alternator (rebuilt in January). The leaking fan pump shorted out the alternator, so I replaced it with a stock one. Then I did the Taurus fan conversion after that.
We do use the seat heaters in the winter.
girlfriendsls
LVC Member
Update - May 2017
I replaced the regulator that came with the aftermarket 200 amp alternator with a stock OEM value Motorcraft regulator and it has worked ever since. No electrical problems. Lights don't dim with rpm changes. Taurus fan is still working like a champ.
Note, the black squared regulator is the one that worked. Part XW4U-10C359-AB.
The grey squared regulator did not work.
I replaced the regulator that came with the aftermarket 200 amp alternator with a stock OEM value Motorcraft regulator and it has worked ever since. No electrical problems. Lights don't dim with rpm changes. Taurus fan is still working like a champ.
Note, the black squared regulator is the one that worked. Part XW4U-10C359-AB.
The grey squared regulator did not work.
Has anyone tried this or done anything similar to a 2000 Lincoln ls v6 3.0? I believe the belt pulley is different between the v6 3.0 and the v8 3.9, but it would help a lot if anyone has any info for v6 3.0.
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
look at the posts on page 2. Gen 2 V6s have a bracket and idler to route it the same way as if it had the pump