steagle
Dedicated LVC Member
i'd love to see one about replacing the 02 sensors that control engine and air bag lights...
WANTED- New tech articles for the LS section
- Thread starter Joeychgo
- Start date
Quik LS
Dedicated LVC Member
gt95coupe said:
Yes it is a DIY.
- pull the driver's wheel off
- remove the inner plastic wheel well liner, just some plastic push-pins
- the fuel filter is mounted on the firewall side of the wheel well with a single screw
- remove the plastic r-clips holding the fuel lines onto the filter
- replace the filter - then reverse the steps
Quik LS
Dedicated LVC Member
steagle said:
not sure what you are asking.
the O2 sensors have nothing to do with the air bag lights, and they do not really control the engine - they are a sensor that is part of the air/fuel ratio measurement while the PCM is in 'closed loop' mode.
gt95coupe
Dedicated LVC Member
The reason I asked was I under stood that on a returnless fuel system was that the fuel lines to the filter were under presure I didnt want to wear any raw gas. thanks fo the info DannyQuik LS said:
Quik LS
Dedicated LVC Member
gt95coupe said:
don't worry about it - you need to have a rag handy to catch any spill - but it's not any worse than any other filter swap. I've done it twice, and disconnected the fuel rail at the manifold over a dozen times.
Would this be handy to put in the tech section? It's a link for owners manuals.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp
Marc
https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp
Marc
allkesh
LVC Member
Causes
I think that it would be a good idea to make a possible problem/testing/possible fix table that could link articles too. Make them sortable by price or complexity or something...
Any takers?
I think that it would be a good idea to make a possible problem/testing/possible fix table that could link articles too. Make them sortable by price or complexity or something...
Any takers?
G
GrayGhost1
Guest
Motodrew
Well-Known LVC Member
How about a how-to for nitrous setup?? I understand you may need a computer programmer for timing issues or something?? I just curious how much time and $$ it would cost me to get into some spray... thanks...
Quik LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Motodrew said:
every manufactuer has a pretty good install doc for their kit - as they target the DIYer - here the one from NX -> http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instructions/stage1.pdf
Most the questinos I answer around the N2O setup are not the actual kit install but thing like tuning, accessories, colder plugs, ...etc
We should probably start a seperate thread on just N2O setups.
P
paulownian
Guest
Now this is participation! I'm new at this, but if there is anything I can do to help, please let me know. I used to do a little writing and I'm handy with a camera. I plan on doing many of the things that have been mentioned, I just need the tech articles to assist me. Thanks all,
P Rock
Active LVC Member
This is a great idea since I prefer to do all the work myself 
JohnnyBz00LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Here's one that's needed (pretty simple too):
Air Conditioner Recharge (add safety and enviro-disclaimers as required)
1) Jack up LF of vehicle, remove LF wheel.
2) Remove lower plastic shield (tucks up between lower control arm and around sway bar), held in place by plastic push-pin and two screws underneath front of car (no need to remove forward screw, can let shield dangle).
3) Locate low-side R134a port on top of A/C compressor (thru hole exposed by removing above shield). Remove plastic dust cap & o-ring (don't lose o-ring gasket!).
4) Start engine, turn A/C on HI (lower temp to 65F).
5) Attach R134a recharge fitting to low-side port, check pressure. Add refrigerant as required to restore proper pressure. Verify A/C is cooling.
6) Disconnect recharge kit. Turn off engine.
7) Reverse above steps 3)-1) to get car on ground.
JB
Air Conditioner Recharge (add safety and enviro-disclaimers as required)
1) Jack up LF of vehicle, remove LF wheel.
2) Remove lower plastic shield (tucks up between lower control arm and around sway bar), held in place by plastic push-pin and two screws underneath front of car (no need to remove forward screw, can let shield dangle).
3) Locate low-side R134a port on top of A/C compressor (thru hole exposed by removing above shield). Remove plastic dust cap & o-ring (don't lose o-ring gasket!).
4) Start engine, turn A/C on HI (lower temp to 65F).
5) Attach R134a recharge fitting to low-side port, check pressure. Add refrigerant as required to restore proper pressure. Verify A/C is cooling.
6) Disconnect recharge kit. Turn off engine.
7) Reverse above steps 3)-1) to get car on ground.
JB
JohnnyBz00LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Coolant Flush/Fill
It's that time of year. This works on the '00-'02 V8s, the '03+ V8s should be similar but I don't know for sure.
---------------------------------------
FLUSHING FILLING AND BLEEDING THE AIR FROM THE 3.9L V8 LINCOLN LS COOLING SYSTEM
The following is based on my experience changing the coolant on my 2000 LS-8. I have listed the tools required and an overview of the process it takes to achieve a 50/50 mix. At the end, I have included the directions from the 2001 shop manual w/ some of my own hints added in for clarification. The 3.0L V6 has an additional engine bleed valve, and I apologize for not knowing where this is located (perhaps a fellow V6 owner can assist here). I will leave the standard warnings / disclaimers to the shop manual section. The only thing I can add is to make sure the car is on a level surface (this may or may not affect how much coolant can be drained from the radiator).
TOOLS / MATERIALS:
- 19mm socket for the radiator drain
- 10mm hex driver for the engine fill cap (located under the engine cover, just in front of the intake manifold) NOTE: Max torque for the engine fill cap is 9-Nm / 80 in-lb / 6.7 ft-lbs!
- Drain tube for radiator drain (not required, but highly recommended to minimize mess and spillage)
- Container(s) for disposal / recycling of old coolant
- Quart-size measuring cup (clean)
- 2 gallons of new coolant (don't use pre-mixed / diluted coolant)
OVERVIEW:
The 3.9L LS cooling systems holds just under 12 quarts of coolant. Only about 4 quarts of coolant can be drained from the radiator. Therefore to achieve a 50/50 mix of new, clean coolant, follow the following general steps:
1) Drain old coolant (follow DRAINING instructions below).
2) Fill / bleed system (follow FILLING / BLEEDING instructions below) NOTE: If you desire to use a "Super-Flush" type cleaner, add it to this first fill).
3) Drain.
4) Repeat fill / bleed / drain cycle using water only at least 3 times until water is clear coming out of radiator drain.
5) Fill / bleed using 4 quarts of 100% new coolant (this should bring the system to full w/ a 33% mix).
6) Drain out ONLY 3 QUARTS from the radiator using the measuring cup. Pour this fluid back into the empty gallon coolant container for later use.
7) Fill / bleed using 3 quarts of 100% new coolant using the measuring cup (this should bring the system to full w/ a 50% mix).
8) Combine the last remaining 1 qt of 100% new coolant w/ the 3 qts of 33% mix that was drained from the radiator in step 6) above (this will leave you with a gallon of 50% mix for topping off in the future).
DETAILS: What follows is from the LS shop manual. I have added step #s and "HINTS" where appropriate.
SECTION 303-03: Engine Cooling 2001 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
GENERAL PROCEDURES
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cooling System Draining, Filling And Bleeding
DRAINING:
WARNING: Never remove the pressure relief cap while the engine is operating or when the cooling system is hot. Failure to follow these instructions can result in damage to the cooling system or engine or personal injury. To avoid having scalding hot coolant or steam blow out of the degas bottle when removing the pressure relief cap, wait until the engine has cooled, then wrap a thick cloth around the pressure relief cap and turn it slowly. Step back while the pressure is released from the cooling system. When you are sure all the pressure has been released, (still with a cloth) turn and remove the pressure relief cap.
CAUTION: The coolant must be recovered in a suitable, clean container for reuse. If the coolant is contaminated it must be recycled or disposed of correctly.
CAUTION: Care must be taken to ensure the accessory drive belt does not become contaminated with engine coolant.
1) Release the pressure in the cooling system by slowly turning the pressure relief cap one half turn counterclockwise. When the pressure is released, remove the pressure relief cap.
NOTE: Approximately four liters will drain from the radiator. (HINT: This is pretty close to 4 qts, YMMV.)
2) Place a suitable container below the radiator draincock. If equipped, disconnect the coolant return hose at the oil cooler. (HINT: I don't think my car was equipped with an oil cooler, so I skipped this step).
3) Close the radiator draincock when finished. (HINT: Before closing the draincock, it helps to "rinse" the system of old fluid by flushing the degas bottle with water until the drain fluid is clear. Also remove the engine fill cap and flush with water until the drain fluid runs clear. Keeping the engine fill cap ON helps drain the degas bottle. Also, it doesn't hurt to open the heater air bleed valve while draining / rinsing.)
FILLING / BLEEDING:
1) On 3.9L engines: Remove the engine fill cap. (HINT: This is located under the engine cover just in front of the intake manifold.)
On 3.0L engines: Open the engine air bleed.
2) On all engines: Open the heater air bleed. (HINT: This is a small rubber tube located adjacent to the master brake cylinder. Un-screw the cap to open, it is not necessary to completely remove the cap-screw.)
3) Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added. (HINT: Keep an eye on the engine fill tube as the fluid may rise up and start to overflow depending on how level the car is. Replace the engine fill cap if this happens. Try to keep the fluid level in the degas bottle in the FULL-COLD range.)
On 3.0L engines: Close the engine air bleed when coolant begins to escape.
4) On all engines: Replace the degas bottle cap.
CAUTION: Care must be taken to ensure the accessory drive belt does not become contaminated with engine coolant.
5) On 3.9L engines: Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open. Replace the engine fill cap. (HINT: This step is not necessary if the engine fill tube overflowed and the cap was reinstalled in step 3) above.)
6) On all engines: Start the engine and turn the heater to MAX position.
NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open.
7) Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant comes from it, during engine idle.
8) Allow the engine to idle for five minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the cold fill MAX mark.
9) Reopen the heater air bleed to release any entrapped air and close again.
10) On 3.9L engines: Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater. (HINT: Roll down the windows!)
On 3.0L engines: Maintain engine speed of 1,500 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.
11) On all engines: Set the heater temperature setting to 24° C (75° F) and allow the vehicle to idle for two minutes.
12) Shut the engine off and allow to cool.
13) After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX mark.
It's that time of year. This works on the '00-'02 V8s, the '03+ V8s should be similar but I don't know for sure.
---------------------------------------
FLUSHING FILLING AND BLEEDING THE AIR FROM THE 3.9L V8 LINCOLN LS COOLING SYSTEM
The following is based on my experience changing the coolant on my 2000 LS-8. I have listed the tools required and an overview of the process it takes to achieve a 50/50 mix. At the end, I have included the directions from the 2001 shop manual w/ some of my own hints added in for clarification. The 3.0L V6 has an additional engine bleed valve, and I apologize for not knowing where this is located (perhaps a fellow V6 owner can assist here). I will leave the standard warnings / disclaimers to the shop manual section. The only thing I can add is to make sure the car is on a level surface (this may or may not affect how much coolant can be drained from the radiator).
TOOLS / MATERIALS:
- 19mm socket for the radiator drain
- 10mm hex driver for the engine fill cap (located under the engine cover, just in front of the intake manifold) NOTE: Max torque for the engine fill cap is 9-Nm / 80 in-lb / 6.7 ft-lbs!
- Drain tube for radiator drain (not required, but highly recommended to minimize mess and spillage)
- Container(s) for disposal / recycling of old coolant
- Quart-size measuring cup (clean)
- 2 gallons of new coolant (don't use pre-mixed / diluted coolant)
OVERVIEW:
The 3.9L LS cooling systems holds just under 12 quarts of coolant. Only about 4 quarts of coolant can be drained from the radiator. Therefore to achieve a 50/50 mix of new, clean coolant, follow the following general steps:
1) Drain old coolant (follow DRAINING instructions below).
2) Fill / bleed system (follow FILLING / BLEEDING instructions below) NOTE: If you desire to use a "Super-Flush" type cleaner, add it to this first fill).
3) Drain.
4) Repeat fill / bleed / drain cycle using water only at least 3 times until water is clear coming out of radiator drain.
5) Fill / bleed using 4 quarts of 100% new coolant (this should bring the system to full w/ a 33% mix).
6) Drain out ONLY 3 QUARTS from the radiator using the measuring cup. Pour this fluid back into the empty gallon coolant container for later use.
7) Fill / bleed using 3 quarts of 100% new coolant using the measuring cup (this should bring the system to full w/ a 50% mix).
8) Combine the last remaining 1 qt of 100% new coolant w/ the 3 qts of 33% mix that was drained from the radiator in step 6) above (this will leave you with a gallon of 50% mix for topping off in the future).
DETAILS: What follows is from the LS shop manual. I have added step #s and "HINTS" where appropriate.
SECTION 303-03: Engine Cooling 2001 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
GENERAL PROCEDURES
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cooling System Draining, Filling And Bleeding
DRAINING:
WARNING: Never remove the pressure relief cap while the engine is operating or when the cooling system is hot. Failure to follow these instructions can result in damage to the cooling system or engine or personal injury. To avoid having scalding hot coolant or steam blow out of the degas bottle when removing the pressure relief cap, wait until the engine has cooled, then wrap a thick cloth around the pressure relief cap and turn it slowly. Step back while the pressure is released from the cooling system. When you are sure all the pressure has been released, (still with a cloth) turn and remove the pressure relief cap.
CAUTION: The coolant must be recovered in a suitable, clean container for reuse. If the coolant is contaminated it must be recycled or disposed of correctly.
CAUTION: Care must be taken to ensure the accessory drive belt does not become contaminated with engine coolant.
1) Release the pressure in the cooling system by slowly turning the pressure relief cap one half turn counterclockwise. When the pressure is released, remove the pressure relief cap.
NOTE: Approximately four liters will drain from the radiator. (HINT: This is pretty close to 4 qts, YMMV.)
2) Place a suitable container below the radiator draincock. If equipped, disconnect the coolant return hose at the oil cooler. (HINT: I don't think my car was equipped with an oil cooler, so I skipped this step).
3) Close the radiator draincock when finished. (HINT: Before closing the draincock, it helps to "rinse" the system of old fluid by flushing the degas bottle with water until the drain fluid is clear. Also remove the engine fill cap and flush with water until the drain fluid runs clear. Keeping the engine fill cap ON helps drain the degas bottle. Also, it doesn't hurt to open the heater air bleed valve while draining / rinsing.)
FILLING / BLEEDING:
1) On 3.9L engines: Remove the engine fill cap. (HINT: This is located under the engine cover just in front of the intake manifold.)
On 3.0L engines: Open the engine air bleed.
2) On all engines: Open the heater air bleed. (HINT: This is a small rubber tube located adjacent to the master brake cylinder. Un-screw the cap to open, it is not necessary to completely remove the cap-screw.)
3) Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added. (HINT: Keep an eye on the engine fill tube as the fluid may rise up and start to overflow depending on how level the car is. Replace the engine fill cap if this happens. Try to keep the fluid level in the degas bottle in the FULL-COLD range.)
On 3.0L engines: Close the engine air bleed when coolant begins to escape.
4) On all engines: Replace the degas bottle cap.
CAUTION: Care must be taken to ensure the accessory drive belt does not become contaminated with engine coolant.
5) On 3.9L engines: Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open. Replace the engine fill cap. (HINT: This step is not necessary if the engine fill tube overflowed and the cap was reinstalled in step 3) above.)
6) On all engines: Start the engine and turn the heater to MAX position.
NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open.
7) Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant comes from it, during engine idle.
8) Allow the engine to idle for five minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the cold fill MAX mark.
9) Reopen the heater air bleed to release any entrapped air and close again.
10) On 3.9L engines: Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater. (HINT: Roll down the windows!)
On 3.0L engines: Maintain engine speed of 1,500 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.
11) On all engines: Set the heater temperature setting to 24° C (75° F) and allow the vehicle to idle for two minutes.
12) Shut the engine off and allow to cool.
13) After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX mark.
NickLS
Dedicated LVC Member
WHO KEEPS TABS ON THE TECH SECTION SUBMISSIONS?!?! WHO IS RESPONSIBLE FOR KEEPING IT UP TO DATE??? IT'S RIDICULOUS HOW SMALL OUR LS SECTION IS. SOMEONE, WHOEVER NEEDS TO GET ON THE BALL!
YEAH I"M YELLING!
There have been two articles submitted by me on changing out springs, and another one by mharrison. Both of us submitted AND emailed LvC about the write ups.. No response back, not posting to the Tech Section.. Hell, not even a response when we sent a SECOND notice about submission.
This is :bsflag:
YEAH I"M YELLING!
There have been two articles submitted by me on changing out springs, and another one by mharrison. Both of us submitted AND emailed LvC about the write ups.. No response back, not posting to the Tech Section.. Hell, not even a response when we sent a SECOND notice about submission.
This is :bsflag:
Antny
LVC Member
I remember there being a tread about LS shortcuts like holding down the unlock button so the moonroof and windows would lower, or holding your remote button when setting your seat.
Do you have a complete list of all of the tricks?
Do you have a complete list of all of the tricks?
daves2000ls
Dedicated LVC Member
holding remote button when setting the seats? what does this do?
MonsterMark
Dedicated LVC Member
NickLS said:
Send Joey a PM and tell him to get on the ball!
Amoxi
Active LVC Member
Wish I would've seen this sooner. I just got done putting on new front brakes and could've put together a pictoral how-to... Guess I can do the rears in a couple months.
Could you send that to me, too? Don't see it in the tech section, and was going to wire mine up there, too. If it has already been done, I'll be glad to use your advise on it.
mcm@mcmsys.net
mharrison
Dedicated LVC Member
Just sent it to you mcmsys. It would be cool if we could get some of these in the tech section!
could u send that write up to me to at npatel12@nyit.edu
NickLS
Dedicated LVC Member
If anyone wants them.. Here is a write up on how to change out the springs.
It's for my 2001, but it's for all 00-06 LS's..
It has three files.
1) taking off the front assembly
2) taking off the rear assembly
3) switching the springs
Eibach.zip Download
It's for my 2001, but it's for all 00-06 LS's..
It has three files.
1) taking off the front assembly
2) taking off the rear assembly
3) switching the springs
Eibach.zip Download
ssls1787
LVC Member
okay im looking for any info on replacing the rear main seal on my 2000 ls. i think i blew out cuz all the oil spilled out of the back of my engine possibly right around where the engine and trans bolt up. and im also wondering if anyone has been able to find an aftermarket off road x or h pipe that directly bolts in. and has anyone made an effort to use O2 cancellers for the rear o2 sensors to keep the check engine light from coming on. all help will be greatly appreciated