What did you do to your LS today?

06Nick said:
So some bad things happen car was running fine than all of a sudden the car pretty much lost all power plugged in the scanner and it was telling me 4 ignition coils went bad all at once. I was about 5 miles from home so I limped home about 1/4 mile from home I start hearing this like rattle/ tick coming from the engine, and now it’s really not moving so my neighbor came and pulled me home. I’m thinking the timing chain tensioner broke and the car jumped timing.
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ouch
 
04LSLincoln said:
that's awesome I would be ecstatic if I made it to 200k...found out the problem is my blend door for the no heat
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If you are talking about an LS, YOU HAVE NO BLEND DOOR! You have a DCCV under the hood which is much easier to replace (no dash removal).
 
joegr said:
If you are talking about an LS, YOU HAVE NO BLEND DOOR! You have a DCCV under the hood which is much easier to replace (no dash removal).
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really? i'm a bit confused mechanic was telling me I had a trouble code that was coming up and he said something about a blend door? ..also then what would this part be for it says lincoln ls? Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

**He was saying he wanted to replace the blend door actuator so I assumed that it had a blend door?
 
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04LSLincoln said:
really? i'm a bit confused mechanic was telling me I had a trouble code that was coming up and he said something about a blend door? ..also then what would this part be for it says lincoln ls? Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

**He was saying he wanted to replace the blend door actuator so I assumed that it had a blend door?
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There are air door and actuators that control where the air comes from and where the air goes. It does not seem to be unusual to find codes about momentary faults (door didn't move fast enough or something like that). THERE IS NO AIR TEMPERATURE DOOR. There are no actuators that control temperature. The DCCV, mounted by the radiator, is the only thing that controls climate control temperature!
Run from that "mechanic," and find someone that has at least a slight clue about how the LS operates.
 
joegr said:
If you are talking about an LS, YOU HAVE NO BLEND DOOR! You have a DCCV under the hood which is much easier to replace (no dash removal).
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He was saying he wanted to replace the blend door actuator so I assumed that it had a blend door?
joegr said:
There are air door and actuators that control where the air comes from and where the air goes. It does not seem to be unusual to find codes about momentary faults (door didn't move fast enough or something like that). THERE IS NO AIR TEMPERATURE DOOR. There are no actuators that control temperature. The DCCV, mounted by the radiator, is the only thing that controls climate control temperature!
Run from that "mechanic," and find someone that has at least a slight clue about how the LS operates.
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Thank you will probably have to do that thanks man for all the help youve given me....i still cant figure out wtf man everything is pressurized in the system and still not heat replaced dccv with new one thermostat is fine......so then what would this part be for https://www.autozone.com/cooling-he...r-blend-door-actuator-604-263/469719_756490_0? ...so this would not cause a a no heat problem?
 
That is possibly for the cold air bypass door. It's not impossible that it is stuck on cold, but it is very unlikely. Are your heater hoses (all three) getting very hot, as close to the firewall as you can get? If not, this is definitely not your problem. If so, then it might be the bypass door. If it is, I'd move it to the non-bypass position and leave it there. Lincoln decided the bypass really wasn't needed, and removed it from the gen II LS.
 
Sst shifter arrived, so looks like I got some work to do, also a bunch of eBay shit is on the way...omg I went a bit nuts. But oh well I love this thing. Secondly...anyone know where to get a R R passenger door sill ? Damn thing is missing from mine and it's driving me nuts
 
DuKeNoMaD said:
Sst shifter arrived, so looks like I got some work to do, also a bunch of eBay shit is on the way...omg I went a bit nuts. But oh well I love this thing. Secondly...anyone know where to get a R R passenger door sill ? Damn thing is missing from mine and it's driving me nuts
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Car-parts.com
 
Sst shifter in...new oversized android head unit showed up same time so guess what I'm doing now....wiring...yay
 
I replaced my rear bumper cover today but found out the LSE rear valance is much easier to get off than the regular LS Valance...5.5 millimeter bolts on LSE Valance and they put Phillips head screws on the LS valance which are rusted and then strip easy ...so will be putting on the LSE valance later but here is the difference
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Edit-2/25/20 Well, made a "final" trip to Autozone, and received my last order today. After much debit card swiping and price comparing, I am ready to do a detail.(hopefully) Here is a pic of all the stuff I bought.
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Mainly Meguires with a couple of other brands mixed in.
 
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Today and I have been wanting to do this for some time now, restored the headlights on my ride.

Various fine grits of wet sanding, heavy cut polish followed up with fine cut polish and a lot of elbow grease.

Came out looking pretty good.
 
Changed out my 20" chrome davinci "drug dealer specials" for a set of niche 20's with some black spiked lug nuts, now looks more "Hitman" and less "wanna buy some drugs kid?". New (to me) rear inner trunk taillight, wood grain shift knob and door sill trim came in from eBay today as well. And to follow suite picked up some detailing bits from good old crappy tire while they balanced the new 'blades up. Pics to come
 
Archangel said:
Today and I have been wanting to do this for some time now, restored the headlights on my ride.

Various fine grits of wet sanding, heavy cut polish followed up with fine cut polish and a lot of elbow grease.

Came out looking pretty good.
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The original UV coating on the lenses is now gone. Looks good, but they really need a top coat or else they'll haze up in a few months. 2k clear is what the headlight pros use, a 2-part clear in a spray can
 
FDR said:
The original UV coating on the lenses is now gone. Looks good, but they really need a top coat or else they'll haze up in a few months. 2k clear is what the headlight pros use, a 2-part clear in a spray can
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Thanks for the tip.
I’m pretty sure the top coat has been trashed long before I hit it yesterday, the many scratches and wiping bugs guts off over the years...
I did however apply a good quality wax on them yesterday, which will help in the interim.

I stopped short of doing a great job on the headlights because 2500 grit was the finest wet sand paper I had available.
I can still see some fine scratches when getting up close and personal.
I really want to hit it with 3000 and follow up with 5000. Then rough cut polish, fine cut polish, 2k clear and finally a wax.

Questions:
How many coats of clear do you or what the professionals recommend?

After the application of the clear coat(s), would it be recommended to lightly fine sand and/or polish the clear coat?

Thanks
 
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Well if you go to a reputable parts/auto body place u can get a 2k clear in a spray can...it will have a red button on the bottom to mix the 2 parts...then it's spray time..quite amazing stuff tbh. I'm too tired to elaborate more..cheers. off to my bday
 
No spray will stick to 2000/3000/5000. That's a waste of time in my opinion for something so readily UV degraded. I wouldn't go over 800 if I was spraying them. Those extreme grits are for polishing clearcoat, not prepping for clear coat. Most people are very happy with 2k out of the can
 
Amsterdutch...where did u find the lse rear valance? Also here is a pic of the niche 20"s I put on the other day, also I appear to have eibachs on all 4 corners not cut coils like I thought

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So pulled a bunch of good/stuff I was missing from the only ls in a pick and pull near me..an 02 V6. Got a bunch of good shit. Anything I should grab for posterity?.
 
DuKeNoMaD said:
Amsterdutch...where did u find the lse rear valance? Also here is a pic of the niche 20"s I put on the other day, also I appear to have eibachs on all 4 corners not cut coils like I thought

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I have an 2002 LSE V8 ...My rear bumper cover was damaged before I even bought the car ...picked up a Rear Sport Bumper Cover from a Salvage yard ...I didn't have time to swap the LSE Valance with the sport Valance the day I replaced it because like I said in my post...the LS Valance has philip head screws and they're rusted into place ...Taking my the LSE Valance off the broken bumper cover was a breeze because Ford used 5.5 mm bolts to lock it onto the Bumper cover ...so the LSE Valance is still sitting on a shelf in my garage ...I will swap it out this summer
 
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Rebuilding coolant system and installing new Generator ...the infamous DCCV ...at least I learned from doing it last time to take out the fan shroud
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Just a quick note for everyone with a 1st Generation Lincoln LS 3.9 if the generator is original it will need some persuasion coming out after you remove the three bolts and I found today that removing the DCCV and fan shroud is making this replacement a breeze
 
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