What did you do to your LS today?

I cleaned my drivers seat today(the other seats are in perfect condition) and was very happy with the results. I would have taken a before and after shot of the seat but I wasn't expecting it to come out as good as it did. Instead, I attached a during and after shot. The stuff I used is a leather cleaner/conditioner made by Weiman and I used a soft bristle toothbrush to scrub. It took almost two hours but my seat was really dirty.

This pic shows the cleaned right half of the perforated section of the seat
seat 1.jpg

This is the final result:
seat 2.jpg

seat 1.jpg


seat 2.jpg
 
Telco said:
Actually, what they say is only a fool keeps doing the same thing over and over expecting different results. :p If this one doesn't work, look into the electric conversion that other Gen 1 owners have done.
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Heh yeah and it seemed like I was going insane. The problem was finding the correct part -- first 2 times we got the fan assy, then a p/s pump, and finally the correct pump.

I guess the real lesson is that no matter much you trust a source, get pictures, documentation, whatever you need. What took a month should've taken a few days.
 
well this weekend, polished headlights, got windshield washers working, painted front upper and lower grille, vht nightshades tint my front fog lights, and painted inside of rear surround. had already replaced dccv, and front hub bearing assembly.
lin1_zps173473ae.jpg

linc2_zps2585f341.jpg
 
Over the long Holiday weekend, I re-installed the factory split 7-spoke 17" rims with brand new Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 tires and I ordered the new; rotors, pads and caliper mounting brackets for the 320mm Jaguar S-type Sport front brake upgrade. Then the DCCV decided to fail, so today I had to ordered a replacement unit.
 
Then today I determined that me "service parking brake" message was coming on due to the failed DCCV with the shorted to ground driver's side solenoid, code 2798. The shorted winding is causing a lot of RFI noise and it is on the same CAN network as the EPB module. The EPB is apparently very sensitive to RFI. The EPB can't process the false signals (RFI noise) and then shuts down, causing the "service parking brake" message to appear. By simply cycling the ignition key off and restarting the car, you reset the EPB module until the next RFI incident.

It is explained here by a Ford Technician on the Marauder forum;

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=59903

I hope to solve both problems this weekend by installing the new DCCV.
 
^ CRAZY, glad you made us that more smarter. Interesting read for sure and well noted.
I don't have EPB due to 1st GEN using manual cable hand brake but nonetheless very interesting! Thx +1
 
Deaconblue said:
Then today I determined that me "service parking brake" message was coming on due to the failed DCCV with the shorted to ground driver's side solenoid, code 2798. The shorted winding is causing a lot of RFI noise and it is on the same CAN network as the EPB module. The EPB is apparently very sensitive to RFI. The EPB can't process the false signals (RFI noise) and then shuts down, causing the "service parking brake" message to appear. By simply cycling the ignition key off and restarting the car, you reset the EPB module until the next RFI incident.

It is explained here by a Ford Technician on the Marauder forum;

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=59903

I hope to solve both problems this weekend by installing the new DCCV.
Click to expand...

BigRigLS said:
^ CRAZY, glad you made us that more smarter. Interesting read for sure and well noted.
I don't have EPB due to 1st GEN using manual cable hand brake but nonetheless very interesting! Thx +1
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Leads quite a bit of credence to Toyota's unintended acceleration problem. I have maintained all along that it was a stray electrical pulse confusing the ETC.
 
Yesterday, the rear spoiler from the BMW M5 came in, and center console trim, on my center console trim (soft touch leather surround), the factory one had a small blemish on it. I got a new one in, correct color, in perfect condition. The are going on this weekend!!!
 
Ranger31 said:
Yesterday, the rear spoiler from the BMW M5 came in, and center console trim, on my center console trim (soft touch leather surround), the factory one had a small blemish on it. I got a new one in, correct color, in perfect condition. The are going on this weekend!!!
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always nice to clean up the small things!
 
Today I washed the car in the rain... First time since last fall and couldn't take it anymore. Currently sitting in the garage drying off so it can get clayed, waxed and the interior vacuumed out.
 
Got the LH valve cover back on today, been taking my time lol. Its been down ~ a month now after I found a cracked thermostat housing. While I was at it I changed the left side secondary timing chain and tensioner...
 
Ranchero50 said:
Today I washed the car in the rain... First time since last fall and couldn't take it anymore. Currently sitting in the garage drying off so it can get clayed, waxed and the interior vacuumed out.
Click to expand...

I usually clay while washing. Saves a lot of time not having to dry the car twice..
 
Finished getting the car ready for Fabulous Fords. Meguiar's 205 applied with a Porter Cable 7424XP, 2 coats of Zaino Z-2, a coat of Surf City Garage Nano Seal, a coat of SCG Nano Glaze and a final coat of Barrier Reef Carnauba Wax. The finish is as smooth as glass!!!!!!
 
I didn't drive the car at all during the just past bad weather. So today I put the battery back in and started it up for the first time in more than two months. I'll take it over to the gas station this afternoon to give it a little drink and then start the spring cleaning process.

KS
 
Had my head rest monitors wired to the "power outlet" at the rear vents. Every time I turned off the car I had to remember to reach back and power down the monitors (almost forgot once).

Decided today to wire up a relay at the fuse box in the trunk so now the power to the rear outlet turns off (thus shutting down the headrest monitors also) when the head unit shuts down. WIN!
 
I replaced the fuel filter today. Jacked it up. Didn't even need to take the wheel off. 20 min labor. Runs much better now.
 
3.9-LS said:
I replaced the fuel filter today. Jacked it up. Didn't even need to take the wheel off. 20 min labor. Runs much better now.
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How many miles do you have? I'm thinking of doing mine soon.
 
My LS has 244k but the body and interior look almost new. I just bought it on April 3rd. A bunch of dirt came out of the old filter. New FG986B filter was only $10 from Summit.
 
I'll probably be changing my filter soon too. Recently got the car at 165k miles. Also, I put some 2003 S-type R wheels on the lincoln today!!! I had the stock split 7 spoke wheels on it but I plan to lower the car soon so I wanted an 18" wheel. I actually really like the stock split 7 but they looked a bit too small for the car. They would've been perfect as an 18".
 
I pulled out of the garage and took note of the dryness of the floor -- no drips! (For the military-minded, no class 3 leaks)

Doesn't take a lot to please me.
 
Fuel filter change is the best thing a person could do to his/her car.
Along with a fresh air intake breather element, one would be in good shape. (plugs & coils when needed)

Amazing the amount of brown mud/gunk that fuel filter collects in a short span. One would think the fuel tanks
are rusting out which is near impossible considering the majority of the fuel holding/delivery system is 'plastic'. (kinda)

Upon fuel filter change, try holding the filter reversed against it flow above a drain pan and observe the brown gunk coming out.

Myself I'm now in the habit of committing to at least an annual fuel filter change. (needed or not) (should prolong fuel pump life as well)
 
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