craigh
Dedicated LVC Member
I did that last year, second light, then also added two more lights into the trunk lid then converted them all to LED. My old eyes can finally see in the trunk.
What did you do to your LS today?
- Thread starter RigsLS
- Start date
Hey man that looks good, what size bulbs? I'm probably gonna convert to all LEDs soon
SteveSC
Well-Known LVC Member
Changed the oil in the transmission. Getrag 221. For reference the drain plug and fill plug are 17mm, drain on the bottom and fill on the passenger side. Anyone who has this transmission should check the fluid annually as mine was down about 1 litre and it takes 1.1! I couldn't believe it was driving at all. It was just having difficulty with second gear two days ago!
SultanGris
Dedicated LVC Member
Just bought one of these glorious machines for $1000 about a month ago that "needed brakes" because I knew nothing about them and just like Ford\Lincoln. My other vehicle is a 2013 f350 Platinum 6.7 powerstroke at 600hp. Turns out the Lincoln needs a lot.
Overheated on the way home which turned out to be low coolant from a split plastic pipe from thermostat to engine. That's real fun to change as I'm sure you all know, ha!
2003, V8, 160k miles, 6 disc CD changer {doesn't work, CD error}, heated and cooled seats {drivers side doesn't work}, ac doesn't work, blows hot air all the time, heater stuck on or something,
driver side window was down when I bought it so I had to fix that, passenger side broke about 5 days later I shit you not so I had to fix that too, those are kind of fun too. I did not drill out my rivets, but I definitely will be next time cuz my passenger side is messed up again already, won't go all the way up, hanging down a quarter inch so I must forgot to tighten something up. Worked good til I used the auto down and up key feature and it hasn't worked right since.
drivers side headlight low beam didn't work so I bought a new bulb for $100, it still doesn't work. Now I've discovered the rock Auto parts website so my parts costs have gone down considerably.
Had to replace both front control arms which was pretty easy actually but it pretty much needs all new suspension still.
Chrome was all peeling off the inside of the rims and rubbing on the calipers making noise. I had to clean that up which removed the wheel balance weights so I and get my wheels rebalanced. They still look pretty good on the outside actually but on the inside the chrome is completely destroyed and gone now for the most part.
Got a code p0108, had a misfire and getting crap mileage so I switched two coils and two plugs around and cleaned them a little bit cause they looked kind of dirty and helped quite a bit but now the code came back so I'm going to replace all of my plugs and springs and boots and one coil cuz one looked kind of funky.
Put on a new tensioner and idler and belt kit. got one windshield wiper installed waiting for the other one to ship from a different location{rock Auto, think I paid more for the shipping than for the wiper itself but it's still cheaper combined than buying them from AutoZone or other parts stores LOL}, got my spark plugs and one coil waiting for the rest of my coil boots and springs.
So far I just put new brake pads on the front but it needs rotors and pads all the way around, calipers are still good I believe though, going to get a brake kit off of RockAuto one of these days.
Has a few more problems I forgot to mention I'm sure. Things gonna be a money pit I'm afraid, but it's really fun to drive, I'm liking it! Im gonna try to do the work myself and get the parts from RockAuto and put some money into this biatch over time make her nice again. I see you get reman motors for like 1100 bucks, but cost $2,000 to $2,500 to get them put in so I hope this one is good for a while, haha
Anyone know how to find the code for the door keypad? on the Ford trucks it's usually on the module which is up underneath the dash by the fuse box somewhere. Thanks
Overheated on the way home which turned out to be low coolant from a split plastic pipe from thermostat to engine. That's real fun to change as I'm sure you all know, ha!
2003, V8, 160k miles, 6 disc CD changer {doesn't work, CD error}, heated and cooled seats {drivers side doesn't work}, ac doesn't work, blows hot air all the time, heater stuck on or something,
driver side window was down when I bought it so I had to fix that, passenger side broke about 5 days later I shit you not so I had to fix that too, those are kind of fun too. I did not drill out my rivets, but I definitely will be next time cuz my passenger side is messed up again already, won't go all the way up, hanging down a quarter inch so I must forgot to tighten something up. Worked good til I used the auto down and up key feature and it hasn't worked right since.
drivers side headlight low beam didn't work so I bought a new bulb for $100, it still doesn't work. Now I've discovered the rock Auto parts website so my parts costs have gone down considerably.
Had to replace both front control arms which was pretty easy actually but it pretty much needs all new suspension still.
Chrome was all peeling off the inside of the rims and rubbing on the calipers making noise. I had to clean that up which removed the wheel balance weights so I and get my wheels rebalanced. They still look pretty good on the outside actually but on the inside the chrome is completely destroyed and gone now for the most part.
Got a code p0108, had a misfire and getting crap mileage so I switched two coils and two plugs around and cleaned them a little bit cause they looked kind of dirty and helped quite a bit but now the code came back so I'm going to replace all of my plugs and springs and boots and one coil cuz one looked kind of funky.
Put on a new tensioner and idler and belt kit. got one windshield wiper installed waiting for the other one to ship from a different location{rock Auto, think I paid more for the shipping than for the wiper itself but it's still cheaper combined than buying them from AutoZone or other parts stores LOL}, got my spark plugs and one coil waiting for the rest of my coil boots and springs.
So far I just put new brake pads on the front but it needs rotors and pads all the way around, calipers are still good I believe though, going to get a brake kit off of RockAuto one of these days.
Has a few more problems I forgot to mention I'm sure. Things gonna be a money pit I'm afraid, but it's really fun to drive, I'm liking it! Im gonna try to do the work myself and get the parts from RockAuto and put some money into this biatch over time make her nice again. I see you get reman motors for like 1100 bucks, but cost $2,000 to $2,500 to get them put in so I hope this one is good for a while, haha
Anyone know how to find the code for the door keypad? on the Ford trucks it's usually on the module which is up underneath the dash by the fuse box somewhere. Thanks
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Get Forscan (free) and a $20 OBDII adapter that works with it. You'll need it for several of your problems, and it's the only way to get the door code. It's not printed anywhere. A little searching on this site will get you answers on all the other problems, though you may not like some of those answers.
DaleGrib
Dedicated LVC Member
Also if no one ever changed it the dealership will give you the code ford has on file for the default if you can prove ownership!
SultanGris
Dedicated LVC Member
Oh right on thanks. I've been doing some reading, lots of good info here for sure. I've been meaning to get one of those for my truck anyway as I hear they can change all kinda stuff for it also. What adapter do you recommend? I've looked a little bit and see there's a few different options.
SultanGris
Dedicated LVC Member
That original code never changes anyway I'm pretty sure, you can just add custom ones, at least on my truck but it's way newer. I've called a couple dealers but they said it had to have been bought from them originally or they couldn't look it up, however I take dealer information with the grain of salt cuz every person I talk too there tells me something different, lol
DaleGrib
Dedicated LVC Member
Dealers are full of Shi! That much is true about everywhere! I know I have had them do it for me before I ever had Forscan and I surely did not buy this car from them and it did not come from their dealership either!
SultanGris
Dedicated LVC Member
Yeah I haven't met too many intelligent people that work at dealers. I bought it from Craigslist but I took it to a dealer to get the oil changed and I wanted them to put it on a hoist and do a little safety check and tell me like what suspension parts I needed to replace but they wouldn't do it for liability reasons, bunch of idiots, how hard is it to wiggle suspension parts and see what's loose? Had to go buy a low pro jack and do it myself! Seems like pretty much they're all loose, ha
Blk04LS
Well-Known LVC Member
Not today, actually a week'ish ago. God I miss the good and honest dealer I had in Titus-Will Ford/Toyota Tacoma's Service Dept. My current dealer, in another city & state, has *some* (mostly just one) good Service Reps, but my LS sat at the dealership for 80hrs for a simple battery test! ....Yes, I know Ford requires more, but it's a 5min parts store test and it was clear, by the symptoms, what the issue was.
This is on top of them not actually performing "The Works" even when you specifically ask for each of the *included* services. To date (nearly 6yrs now) they have never once rotated the tires, even though I specifically request the service each time... they make you specify what you want done, each time.... And since I have corrosion on the factory wheels beads, I KNOW if the tires have been rotated due to the slow air leaks.
But back to the battery, a Motorcraft purchased from this same dealer with just over 1/3rd of the 3yr full replacement warranty remaining and painfully obvious that it was a failed battery. Promised delivery (testing & diagnostic) of EOB if dropped of first thing in the morning. I literally dropped it as they unlocked the doors. No call or replay to my own late day call. When I arrived there 30min before closing, it was parked in the exact same place I parked it in the AM. Rep knew nothing about it's status and had to check with the floor. Nothing done in an entire day, not even placed on the charger... after letting it sit on the charger the night before, I still had to jump it in the dark to drive it there and the alternator had no idea powering everyone, with lights on and defroster running...
Promised next day, yet again by EOB and one again, no call and nothing done... at least not until 1hr before closing but not soon enough to finish. Closed next day, special order battery, finally picked it up 80hrs after dropped off and 70hrs after initially promised.
Had they called me to update I would have been okay with it and going in I fully expected them to have to order a replacement battery, just like they had to with the now failed battery. But the whole point here is that they did nothing and did not communicate anything to me on their own. I had to force all the updates with them.
Guess who is never buying a Motorcraft battery again... And who will be doing his own general maintenance from here on out, as I do and always have done on all of my other vehicles anyway.. It was nice only being out a couple of extra bucks compared to parts alone while not having to deal with it myself, but since they have proven so unreliable, what's the point in wasting the time?
This is on top of them not actually performing "The Works" even when you specifically ask for each of the *included* services. To date (nearly 6yrs now) they have never once rotated the tires, even though I specifically request the service each time... they make you specify what you want done, each time.... And since I have corrosion on the factory wheels beads, I KNOW if the tires have been rotated due to the slow air leaks.
But back to the battery, a Motorcraft purchased from this same dealer with just over 1/3rd of the 3yr full replacement warranty remaining and painfully obvious that it was a failed battery. Promised delivery (testing & diagnostic) of EOB if dropped of first thing in the morning. I literally dropped it as they unlocked the doors. No call or replay to my own late day call. When I arrived there 30min before closing, it was parked in the exact same place I parked it in the AM. Rep knew nothing about it's status and had to check with the floor. Nothing done in an entire day, not even placed on the charger... after letting it sit on the charger the night before, I still had to jump it in the dark to drive it there and the alternator had no idea powering everyone, with lights on and defroster running...
Promised next day, yet again by EOB and one again, no call and nothing done... at least not until 1hr before closing but not soon enough to finish. Closed next day, special order battery, finally picked it up 80hrs after dropped off and 70hrs after initially promised.
Had they called me to update I would have been okay with it and going in I fully expected them to have to order a replacement battery, just like they had to with the now failed battery. But the whole point here is that they did nothing and did not communicate anything to me on their own. I had to force all the updates with them.
Guess who is never buying a Motorcraft battery again... And who will be doing his own general maintenance from here on out, as I do and always have done on all of my other vehicles anyway.. It was nice only being out a couple of extra bucks compared to parts alone while not having to deal with it myself, but since they have proven so unreliable, what's the point in wasting the time?
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DaleGrib
Dedicated LVC Member
Went a little crazy today! The last time I am driving it till the hubs are replaced but I had my exhaust system replaced. Went with resonator delete, ran new pipes 2.5 inches, x pipe, and 2 Magnaflow mufflers. Now she is sounding good! I Will post videos later when my wife gets home so she can give me a hand recording it.
If anyone is needing any of the old OEM exhaust let me know as I kept the old stuff in case anyone was in need of it and the old stuff is rust-free and very clean cause the car only had 46,700 miles when this was just taken off it.
If anyone is needing any of the old OEM exhaust let me know as I kept the old stuff in case anyone was in need of it and the old stuff is rust-free and very clean cause the car only had 46,700 miles when this was just taken off it.
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DaleGrib
Dedicated LVC Member
Making another post cause the place that did the exhaust did a very bad job on their install so I went back today and they took it off and I got refunded. So then went to another shop that actually knows what they are doing and got it re-done. I went a different route on the muffler selection this time as I choose to go with Black Widow Mufflers. I wanted to do something a little different than what everyone else was doing after I heard it in person. So same setup just done much more professionally than the last time with a different muffler.
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John_Carr
Active LVC Member
Beautiful workmanship that's.
DaleGrib
Dedicated LVC Member
Thanks! And to show all why I got my money back from the first place here are a few pictures of how bad their work was!
First it would be wise of them to start at the same point on each side. And where do I begin on how many unnecessary bends they made in this setup. I honestly feel like air was being more restricted than anything by the looks of it.
Gotta love their attempt at an X pipe. And where do I begin on how bad that center weld is. Amateur night would have likely turned out better for most on that one.
Yep was sitting on the cross member
What were they smoking here? The tips and placement there make me cry inside just knowing how bad it once was! Glad it was only for a day! In the end it looked like a restricted nightmare to me among all the other crap mentioned just now. But it was very fun driving to the other shop with no mufflers and all that pipe cut out for about an 8 mile drive! Yep I had lots of fun knowing I could get away with it for that brief time.
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SultanGris
Dedicated LVC Member
Yikes, that was a horrible job!
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
Very nice Dale!!!!!
DaleGrib
Dedicated LVC Member
Today I dropped my LS off to have the front wheel hubs replaced, all the sway bars and bushings replaced, front brakes being replaced with Power Stop Performance drilled & slotted rotors with Akebono brake pads and hopefully having the drivers door channel replaced so my front door don't look so screwed up! Going to replace the rear brakes and rotors with the same kind as I already bought the kit when I have the rear wheel hubs bearings replaced or replace the entire knuckles ! Used Moog for all the other parts I bought as I have used them before on my other LS's in the past and had no issues! If that ever changes I will be sure to post in the forum. I know I have read Moog can be hit or miss but these days what isn't ! I just really like being able to grease these suspension parts and most of moog stuff gives that option.
SultanGris
Dedicated LVC Member
Let me know how you like those brakes, that's going to be one of my next fixes also. My rotors are about ready to fall apart but I have to get my coolant leaks fixed first. Need to be able to go before you need to worry about stopping, properties, lol!
DaleGrib
Dedicated LVC Member
So far I love them! Much better-stopping power for sure. I gave her a good run today and loved every second of it.
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
I've never been sold on cheap little add-ons when it comes to cars/trucks so before I purchased this product I was a bit skeptical to say the least ..I will post better pictures when I get more time and show what the stance looks like from a better angle/picture...I wanted some Eibachs but after hearing that the springs can do more harm than good on my LSEs suspension I'm going a different route ...I think this product gives the car a way more aggressive look without breaking the bank
SultanGris
Dedicated LVC Member
Oh nevermind I see how it's different now, looks good, I thought it was factory, ha
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MtnStNomad
LVC Member
I started the wrap job on the 05 base model. Covering piano black with grey digital camo vinyl. Since the car is white, im trying to pull the various interior and exterior colors together with the wrap. I mean lets face it, the base model interior is a disaster with some grey, black, silver on the top half, and that aweful tan camel color that goes in all luxury cars for some reason on the seats lower portion.
The three sections on the dash just pop off as expected, but Ive read that the door trim is spot welded to the panels, so ill have to precut vinyl and lay those in-car
The three sections on the dash just pop off as expected, but Ive read that the door trim is spot welded to the panels, so ill have to precut vinyl and lay those in-car
MtnStNomad
LVC Member
I have the same stuff on my xtreme s10 and its worked out really well. I like that its flexible because it doesnt scrape hard like the orginal one did when making transitions. Or when small animals jump out in front of you and fold the factory air dam under and break your fog lamp bulbs.
I think the brand was EZ Lip .. basically garage door gasket but more durable material. But for 20 bucks or so, i have no complaints whatever
I swapped to an SS front bumper cover but it was an inch or two higher than the factory xtreme skirts. I threw this lip on there to drop the front clearance about an inch lower than the skirts. Looks good now .. as far as that goes. Still needs a lot of tlc elsewhere. Havent finished fixing it all back up after deer damage cause its not really worth much and ive not had the extra money to sink into that project
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AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
Yeah I went down to my local Hardware store and bought some black bolts and black matching nuts ...I'm in MN with nasty winters so I didn't trust the 3M tape adhesive that these are supposed to keep them on ...the bolts aren't visible whatever the road and weather throws at them will lose lolI have the same stuff on my xtreme s10 and its worked out really well. I like that its flexible because it doesnt scrape hard like the orginal one did when making transitions. Or when small animals jump out in front of you and fold the factory air dam under and break your fog lamp bulbs.
I think the brand was EZ Lip .. basically garage door gasket but more durable material. But for 20 bucks or so, i have no complaints whatever
I swapped to an SS front bumper cover but it was an inch or two higher than the factory xtreme skirts. I threw this lip on there to drop the front clearance about an inch lower than the skirts. Looks good now .. as far as that goes. Still needs a lot of tlc elsewhere. Havent finished fixing it all back up after deer damage cause its not really worth much and ive not had the extra money to sink into that project
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