What did you do to your Mark VIII today?
- Thread starter Blkdvll
- Start date
slowmkviii
Dedicated LVC Member
Looks very nice
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
Initial tuning on the dyno had ignition stuttering around 6500 rpms which led to a new set of Motorcraft coils and NGK TR6 spark plugs.
Final pulls were steady to 7500 rpms and 131 mph with good AFR throughout.
Looking forward to datalogging and final tuning at the track.
Final pulls were steady to 7500 rpms and 131 mph with good AFR throughout.
Looking forward to datalogging and final tuning at the track.
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
torque curve looks great.
what were the numbers?
what were the numbers?
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
333 HP / 307 TQ at the wheels is what the dyno printout says, FWIW. Personally, I think that's low but I'll take it to the track and we'll see.
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
that does seem low.
but the time slips will let you know.
but the time slips will let you know.
slowmkviii
Dedicated LVC Member
Mustang dynos are always conservative
Played with the GoPro on the MK VIII.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HBN9X768HhE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HBN9X768HhE
olddavid
Well-Known LVC Member
When I see a Toreador red car I always wonder if there is a spare RF fender in the garage. I had an argument with a cow at 2a.m. in northern Montana two weeks ago. Anyone with that color of mirror or fender please advise me. Those wheels are beautiful, Slow. Did you sensor lower or change to different coils? The ride height is perfect.
slowmkviii
Dedicated LVC Member
I have an asham 8 so I can chance hight any time.
thaywood
Dedicated LVC Member
I'm back in the Mark VIII business again!!! Just got this 1996 base a couple of weeks ago. I'm a happy guy!!
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
never got around to updating this.
that motor is installed now and runs.
96 cobra cams, long tubes, dual exhaust, 4k stall, 4.10s, etc.
that motor plus my stall means 1st gear is spin city.
also a little while ago i parted the 93.
also i am picking up an old members unfinished project car here in a few weeks.
davidm
Well-Known LVC Member
A basic question for the Gen One people.
On a cold engine on a cold day, how long does the IAC keep the idle up?
Mine will only idle up less than 30 seconds and maybe 1000-1100 rpms.
Thinking the IAC is not working right and it could be original.
Thanks
On a cold engine on a cold day, how long does the IAC keep the idle up?
Mine will only idle up less than 30 seconds and maybe 1000-1100 rpms.
Thinking the IAC is not working right and it could be original.
Thanks
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
doesn't sound too far off.
any more symptoms?
any more symptoms?
davidm
Well-Known LVC Member
Slightly rough idle till warmed up.
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
is it the 93 in your signature?
have you done plugs and wires lately? what plugs? gap? what wires?
have you checked for vacuum leaks when cold?
what rpm is the cold idle after it drops from 1000-1100?
have you done plugs and wires lately? what plugs? gap? what wires?
have you checked for vacuum leaks when cold?
what rpm is the cold idle after it drops from 1000-1100?
davidm
Well-Known LVC Member
It is the same 93.
Plug wires, coils replaced 6-7 years ago. Ford Racing wires and Motorcraft coils.
Copper 764 plugs changed 2015, forget the gap but went with what everyone does here.
Have only visually looks for leaks or broken lines. Do not see anything standing out.
Normal Idle is around 600 RPM.
Best way to check for vacuum leaks?
Plug wires, coils replaced 6-7 years ago. Ford Racing wires and Motorcraft coils.
Copper 764 plugs changed 2015, forget the gap but went with what everyone does here.
Have only visually looks for leaks or broken lines. Do not see anything standing out.
Normal Idle is around 600 RPM.
Best way to check for vacuum leaks?
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
spray ether or carb cleaner around the intake and vac lines.
if the idle spikes or drops, vacuum leak.
if the idle spikes or drops, vacuum leak.
davidm
Well-Known LVC Member
Will give that a try.
Might do the Seafoam treatment also.
Might do the Seafoam treatment also.
thaywood
Dedicated LVC Member
Still steady modding my '96. I just got some more blue LED and EL lighting done on the console and dash.
The problem I'm encountering is that I'm trying to replace the OEM T4 Neo-wedge bulbs in the EATC with blue LED's. The LED's I got are plug-n-play. But after installation, they don't work at all. I've been told that you have to solder the LED's into the OEM bulb housings in order for them to work. That just sounds strange since they use the same bulb housings and install the same way. But I'm still experimenting. I've got a coupe of ideas I'm gonna try this weekend. If nothing else, I'll just put the OEM incandescent bulbs back That would be a bummer.
Also installed a white COB LED strip in the trunk. I put it on the upper edge of the trunk right under the rear window where the CHMSL is. It pours light all over the inside of the trunk. Much nicer than that little half-ass light that was from the factory.
The problem I'm encountering is that I'm trying to replace the OEM T4 Neo-wedge bulbs in the EATC with blue LED's. The LED's I got are plug-n-play. But after installation, they don't work at all. I've been told that you have to solder the LED's into the OEM bulb housings in order for them to work. That just sounds strange since they use the same bulb housings and install the same way. But I'm still experimenting. I've got a coupe of ideas I'm gonna try this weekend. If nothing else, I'll just put the OEM incandescent bulbs back
That would be a bummer.Also installed a white COB LED strip in the trunk. I put it on the upper edge of the trunk right under the rear window where the CHMSL is. It pours light all over the inside of the trunk. Much nicer than that little half-ass light that was from the factory.
Rockbottom
Active LVC Member
Very inconsistent braking, and could start seeing some hot spots in the front rotors, so I decided to replace the front pads.
Some bad spots in the pads, I thought that slotted rotors would help stop this from happening:
But I also decided that it has been 5000 miles, so go ahead and rotate tires (front to back, directional tires). Rear are completely bald, they were okay 5000 miles ago, I guess with my driving style I need to rotate every 2500 miles?
Pull off the back wheels and find the inboard side of the rotors have grooves, it looked like "plenty" of pad material left, but forgot about the locator spring and how it is attached.
Rear pad so worn down that the caliper piston falls out. I have only seen that before with the early MN12 calipers and late/FN10 thinner rotors. So I had the wrestle those back in so I could then screw them in.
Swapped all of the interior bulbs to LEDs, made more of a difference than I thought it would. Put 245/50s on the rear and found the factory low beam ballasts for my headlights. The harness was spliced and a cheap no name kit was on the car when I bought it, lasted almost 2 years. So I'm looking around for a new low beam kit, kinda doubt the factory ballasts are any good
Rockbottom
Active LVC Member
Update:
Advance parts has sylvania bulbs that fit a mark 96. Its that all I need to do is buy these and replace?
Before-
Rockbottom
Active LVC Member
Will advance parts sylv lights made for 96 mark restore the headlights?
If you're talking about the interior lights Amazon or eBay is your best bet, way cheaper than Advanced. Just get a list of the different bulbs and get the ones you need. There are 2 31mm festoon bulbs in the door panels and you can use a 194 for the rest