Why is my fan coming on? 2005 Lincoln LS V8

Lumbeeindian17

Lumbeeindian17

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Just replaced many cooling parts on the car. Including, radiator, coolant tank, upper radiator hose, water outlet, plastic pipe that attaches the water outlet to the intake, DCCV. All these things have been replaced in the past 3 months. The thermostat was replaced about 6 months ago and when I replaced it I pulled out my water pump and made sure that the fins were looking good. I put a leak tester on the car and it holds steady around 16 psi as it should. The fan is only coming on when I'm sitting still and I don't have the heat on. If I cut the heat on then the fan goes off. And also I can tell that the fan is not full speed. When I stare at the temp gauge I can't see a change. Any suggestions?
 
Low speed fan standing still is not abnormal. What is your coolant temperature when this happens (get a scan tool that can read it)?
 
Also, the fan will run at least medium speed or so when stopped if the AC compressor is on. By default, the AC compressor is on pretty much anytime the climate control is not "OFF."
 
if its a simple code reader, dont bet one it, if its a true scan tool that can scan the computer and read out what the sensors are reporting then it should.
 
If the fan is running at high speeds then the temperature is climbing well over 220 degrees. It's my impression that If the cooling system is in order this shouldn't happen. If you haven't already you may want to read my post "Overheating Root Cause". If you have an OBD II scanner tool monitor the coolant temperature. To me, temps over 220 would be a concern.
 
Pretty sure it's just a code reader. Not sure why the link isn't showing up. The fan is definitely not running at high speed. I may have to see if I can borrow a friend's and check out the actual reading. Or if anybody knows a coat effective one I can buy feel free to post links.
 
Ordered a scanner that's compatible. Now I wait..... I'll update everyone when I'm able to get it and run a test.
 
Just so anyone can know, Amazon sells cheap OBD II adaptors that will work with a cell phone app Torque lite. I use this system to make for easy monitoring of couple of things that we dont have gauges for - like temps.

One day I will have to put Forscan on my laptap - which would also use this adaptor.
 
That's what I bought actually. It was only like 7 bucks with shipping and it states that it's compatible with forscan. First one on the list actually.
 
Yeah, you still have a problem. You should be running closer to 200, if it isn't very hot there.
Ford thermostat or aftermarket?
Are you sure you assembled it correctly?
What plastic parts haven't you replaced?
Correct fill and bleed procedure?
 
I think 226 is too hot. What you are hearing is the fan kicking into high speed.

If it is OK for me to assume the following:
1. There are no internal engine problems
2. All coolant parts show no signs of cracking and or coolant leaks
3. The coolant system has been correctly bled of air

Then based on symptoms It sounds like the system has restricted coolant flow.

When you turn the heat on coolant flows to the heater core and is then returned to the engine. The heater core is acting like a mini radiator and providing just enough cooling to allow the fan to slow. I noticed you didn't replace the thermostat housing. The inside of the housing can deteriorate and prevent the thermostat from opening completely.

My guess is Thermostat Housing or Thermostat.
 
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The Thermostat and housing is not oem and neither is the radiator I put in it. And it didn't do it till after I put in radiator. Think I got a bad radiator? Water outlet, upper radiator hose, and the pipe that attaches water outlet to intake is all Motorcraft. I think it could have air because when I open bleeder screw and the heat is off nothing comes out. Cut heat on then it starts to have a steady stream.
 
People have reported trouble (marginal overheating like yours) using the Dorman thermostat/thermostat housing/crossover tube assembly. AFAIK, Dorman is the only aftermarket maker for these parts. (You may find them rebranded as something else.). Also, don't get the Dorman degas bottle.

I have aftermarket radiators on both of my LSes, and they seem to be fine. I suppose that some may be better or worse than others.

It seems like you haven't replaced the water outlet pipe that comes from the top of the engine and goes to the back of the crossover/thermostat. That pipe will fail soon, it would be less grief if you went ahead and replaced it now while you are replacing the Dorman crap.
 
I've seen an LS aftermarket housing where the coolant flow opening diameter is considerably smaller than the opening in the OEM housing and another that looks like it's missing the small valve that's located on the inside of the OEM housing. This might explain why some experience "marginal overheating" as Joegr mentioned. I'm not saying this is the cause of your cars problem but it's something to take note of.

For most parts OEM is really the way to go.

If you think you have air in the system and want to attempt to bleed the system I've included instructions that I pulled from the 2006 V8 workshop manual. The last time I bled my car successfully was with help from Joegr. I added a few comments based on my experience.

Follow these steps and in order.

1.Remove the engine fill cap.

2.Open the heater air bleed.

My comment: Remove the air bleed screw completely.

3.Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added.

My comment: You know you can't fill anymore when coolant flows into and fills the thermostat housing and begins to leak from the small port located on the thermostat housing neck.(Driver Side,OEM Housing). Make sure you use proper coolant Motorcraft Gold or equivalent.

4.Install the degas bottle cap.

5.Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open.

My comment: bleed screw remains removed completely.

6.Install the engine fill cap.

7.Install the engine fill cap until contact is made and then tighten an additional 45 degrees (1/8 turn).
NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open.

My comment: bleed screw remains removed completely

8.Start the engine and turn the heater to the defrost (90°F) position.

9.Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant escapes during engine idle.

My comment: You might be tempted to close it as soon as you see coolant but don't do it.Try your best to make sure what you are seeing is a steady stream. In my case i lost about a drinking glass worth of coolant.

10.Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the cold fill MAX mark.

My comment. if you do need to add coolant you do this with the car running.

11.Reopen the heater air bleed to release any trapped air and close again.

My comment: Again leave this open as long as needed to release all air.

12.Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.

My comment: Make sure hot air is coming out of both driver and passenger side defrost vents before moving onto next step.

13.Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.

14.Set the heater temperature setting to 24°C (75°F) and allow the vehicle to idle for 2 minutes.

15.Shut the engine off and allow to cool.

16.After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX mark.

Good luck!
 
Yes I replaced that plastic tube also with a Motorcraft one. Just done that about 2 3 weeks ago.
 
Do I need to take off the engine fill cap at this point? I'll definitely lose a good amount of coolant. In other words do I need to start from the top?
 
First allow the engine to cool and the system to depressurize. Then, follow the air bleed instructions as written. You shouldn't lose coolant by opening the engine fill cap. If your coolant level is currently fine then you wont need to add much to the degas but go through the step anyway.
 
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