Your Biggest Bug About Your LS

What's all this horse power horse-hockey coming from?

Gentlemen, please don't tell me I'm the first to inform you that HP is really only good for comparing dyno sheets. torque, converter stall speed, gear ratios, and power band rpm range are a much better set of numbers to compare.

Hmm... I have 3.73 gears...
 
Hmm... I have 3.73 gears...

4.56:1 ratio gears with LSD and a 3300 stall TCI Streetfighter I bet would give faster 1/4 mile times with the same HP.

Horsepower by itself doesn't mean sh*t. It's how you effectively stay in the power band for the longest amount of time.

I'm not so sure on the 4.56's. 4.10's may eliminate an extra shift in the 1/4 mile.
 
OK boys.... I had the privilege of being in a group that interacted EXTENSIVELY with the Lincoln suits regarding the LS in January of 2001. Heck, they even set up an autocross course for us around the corner from their HQ when it was in Irvine......

Rabbit trail...... PAG HQ was just off the 5 in Irvine, CA and every brand had their own floor and motif. It was a very nice building and the brand decor was quite elegant and stylish!! VERY impressive. The new user of the building you ask....... It is now Taco Bell's HQ!

Back to the LS. Lincoln was targeting the 5-Series buyer; they even purchased one and used it for a model. That's why the window regulators are so weird. They needed a platform that could compete with BMW and didn't break the bank. They needed another vehicle that could help spread the cost so enter the S-Type; a co-developed car. The LS is geared more toward handling and the Jag towards a boulevard cruiser (like the new T-Bird). The LS was supposed to be sold in Europe, making the cost of development more palatable. Nasser finally figured out that it was stupid to try and pit sister cars against each other in a market that heavily favored Jag and where Lincoln was at a severe disadvantage. Then LS was VERY competitive in 1999 when it was released as a 2000. Somewhere in '03 or '04 Nasser decided the LS would never be exported to the European market, sealing the LSes fate. Part of the lack of sales was dealers (you wouldn't believe the power dealers have over their parent manufacturers!) pushing the LS as a small Continental and NOT the American BMW it was. All development stopped after the '03 was released.

As for the 4.6..... Lincoln engineers tried installing one in an '03 LS for the One Lap of America race. IIRC, they never did get an overheating problem corrected. They added a bigger radiator, a hood scoop, cut open the front end and the thing still overheated. You guys keep comparing a 14+ year old design to all the new technology out and think Lincoln should have used this technology then. I assume you're not still running Windows 98, with a 28K modem are you? Maybe Microsoft was sneaky and purposely didn't program in wireless and cable internet speeds so they could force you to upgrade to XP, Vista, 7 and now 8. You also don't know the constraints placed on the design to meet gummint regulations. One reason there isn't a V8 manual was the cost of development (the crash test costs millions and would have had to be preformed on the manual AND the automatic). vs. how many would be sold. Enthusiasts aside, there is virtually no market for a manual trans in America.

Go read the LS forum at Edmunds from the beginning. Back then Lincoln suits were encouraged to, and actually did, post.
 
4.56:1 ratio gears with LSD and a 3300 stall TCI Streetfighter I bet would give faster 1/4 mile times with the same HP.

Horsepower by itself doesn't mean sh*t. It's how you effectively stay in the power band for the longest amount of time.

I'm not so sure on the 4.56's. 4.10's may eliminate an extra shift in the 1/4 mile.

Well no **** friend, my car is stock lol, just pre-april of 2000, which gives me 3.73:1 and SUPPOSEDLY no speed limited except the final drive.
 
2000 BMW 528i: 193HP, 206lbft, 3549 pounds.
2000 LS V6: 210HP, 205lbft, 3598 pounds. Advantage: A draw to me (Lincoln wins in HP, but, IMHO, the torque and weight of the BMW balances that out).

2000 BMW 540i: 282HP, 324ftlb, 3803 pounds.
2000 LS V8: 252HP, 267ftlb, 3692 pounds. Advantage: No-brainer..... BMW

2003 BMW 528i: 225HP, 213ftlb, 3494 pounds.
2003 LS V6: 232HP 220ftlb, 3674 pounds. Advantage: Again, a draw, IMHO.

2003 BMW 540i: 290HP, 324ftlb, 3803 pounds.
2003 LS V8: 280HP, 286ftlb, 3755 pounds. Advantage: On paper the 540, in actual testing the LS.

1980 Ferrari 308 GTSi QV 205HP, 179ftlb 3366 pounds. A pretty quick car then, a sluggard now! The smallest LS engine puts out the same HP per liter as does that Ferrari. I wonder why Ferrari didn't put in a more powerful engine....... Hmmmmm........

As you can see, the LS was very competitive WHEN IT WAS RELEASED. Same as the Aston DB5, the E-Type and the Ferrari's OF THE DAY.
 
Indeed it was. I still consider it slow now. I didn't own it when it was released. I waited for the value to plummet and got in a very clean example for a decent price. Still a hoot and a half on the back roads though.

Edit: I do thank you for the info.
 
On my Gen 2 I added an LSD posi Gen 1 pumpkin.
Bought a rear mounted turbo kit with a tune in an SCT programmer from ILLS a few years ago who was a member of the board and an STS Dealer.
Got sidetracked on an LT1 Camaro and never did put it on.
It's sitting around in my shop.
I may put it up for sale here sometime.
Got an extra 2005 engine with 50 miles on it that was in a crash test
for 600.00 and so far have used the coils for my car.
If any engine part fails or the motor goes south I have parts or can swap the engine.

My other car I bought 4 months ago is a now supercharged 2002 Corvette M6 Vert putting out 540 hp at the rear wheels.

I didn't like the large Gen 2 headrests so I swapped them out for some Gen 1s.
I wish the heating cooling system would put out air the temperature of the setting as sometimes I have to turn it up to 80-90 if I want heat since at 77 in winter it starts blowing cooler air after a while, but this is minor stuff.
The trans has a hard shift if I start out in first but pull my foot out of it.
The tranny shop has an additive that freed up a similar sticking valve issue on the wife's VW beetle so I will be putting that in.
Otherwise I'm very happy with my car at 145k miles and have had very few maintenance or repair issues.
 
I was reminded last night of the most annoying feature of this car.

The "put your seat belt on" noise is the same as "engine overheated, ETC failsafe mode" noise. I have a small panic attack every time.
 
I wish the heating cooling system would put out air the temperature of the setting as sometimes I have to turn it up to 80-90 if I want heat since at 77 in winter it starts blowing cooler air after a while, but this is minor stuff.

That could be because Fords, since at least '86, won't put out fully heated air until the engine warms up. This has been the case on my 4 Sables and 4 LSes. It used to be in the OM......
 
I was reminded last night of the most annoying feature of this car.

The "put your seat belt on" noise is the same as "engine overheated, ETC failsafe mode" noise. I have a small panic attack every time.

You could wear your seat belt...... :p Unless, of course, you mean your "work" car..... Don't they have that disabled??????
 
I don't like driving a car that runs like a "snail". I'm all for a bit of "get up and go" when I need to get up and go.

But, when is enough enough?

I don't now where most of you guys live, but here in crowded north Jersey, your high performing vehicle better have high performing brakes because there's not much room on the roads to really put a car through it's paces.

My LS (and retro TBird) have more than enough power to give me a little kick in the butt when I need it, so in that respect, neither car has let me down.

My Galaxie's no hot rod (the 3:50 rear gave it a bit more responce), and my V6 Explorer is fine under normal conditions, but gets a bit weak on grades.
 
You could wear your seat belt...... :p Unless, of course, you mean your "work" car..... Don't they have that disabled??????

Ha, no I do mean the LS and I do wear my seat belt at all times personally and at work. Those moments were I say, drive to the end of the lot to the mailbox without a seat belt, get out, get the mail, get back and in sort through my mail, the LS's "No seatbelt timer" continues even if the car is in park, which is a bug in it's own. But when it goes off, my eyes dart to the message display or temperature gauge because it's the same noise instead of thinking "Oh, my seat belt" I think "Oh, this is the end"

However, regarding the seat belt alarm for work vehicles, it is not disabled but I feel like it is certainty "altered". The Chevy I have now lets me go 15-20 minutes before it dings at me and literally only dings twice.
 
I was reminded last night of the most annoying feature of this car.

The "put your seat belt on" noise is the same as "engine overheated, ETC failsafe mode" noise. I have a small panic attack every time.


get a short seat belt extender and you won't get any noise at all since your car will think you are belted in.
 
That could be because Fords, since at least '86, won't put out fully heated air until the engine warms up. This has been the case on my 4 Sables and 4 LSes. It used to be in the OM......

no thats not it.
This is after it warms up.
The car heats then the temperature goes cooler.
If I want it to continue being hot I have to turn up the temperature to 85-90.
If I set it to 77 that's the temp I want coming out not hot until it reaches 77 then goes cold.
Manual controls would be better than the climate control system.
 
no thats not it.
This is after it warms up.
The car heats then the temperature goes cooler.
If I want it to continue being hot I have to turn up the temperature to 85-90.
If I set it to 77 that's the temp I want coming out not hot until it reaches 77 then goes cold.
Manual controls would be better than the climate control system.


Odd as I've had the temp on mine set at 69° for over a year.........
 
Odd as I've had the temp on mine set at 69° for over a year.........

Yeah, I don't get the desire for manual control either. I leave mine on full auto at 73° F and haven't touched it for years. It's very annoying to get in my ranger and have to change the blower speed, temperature, and mode every so often.
 
I prefer manual controls to automatic. It's rare for someone else to set up an automatic system that operates the way I want it to. So, I wind up fighting the car to try to get it to do what I want it to do. This is one of the things I don't like about the trend to controlling everything via a computer over manual controls, is there is no way for me to go in and change things.
 
Yeah, I don't get the desire for manual control either. I leave mine on full auto at 73° F and haven't touched it for years. It's very annoying to get in my ranger and have to change the blower speed, temperature, and mode every so often.

But, its different for people in the north, having to set it for air flow to your feet and windshield (bi-level).
 
But, its different for people in the north, having to set it for air flow to your feet and windshield (bi-level).

Funny, down here in the south, the climate control automatically switches airflow to the floor when it is really cold. I would think it would surely do this up north too, as long as you leave the airflow on full auto. As far as I can tell, it also pulses air to the windshield when needed. There is the rare occasion that I have to hit the windshield defrost override.
 
Odd as I've had the temp on mine set at 69° for over a year.........

You guys are in California and New Mexico.
Your weather doesn't change much.
I'm in Buffalo NY.
In the summer the climate control is fine but in the winter the heat cuts out too soon.
If I turn it up to 90 it stays full heat so it's not a big deal but the temperature varies if you turn it down to 80.
77 78 seems to be a cutoff.
 
You guys are in California and New Mexico.
Your weather doesn't change much.
I'm in Buffalo NY.
In the summer the climate control is fine but in the winter the heat cuts out too soon.
If I turn it up to 90 it stays full heat so it's not a big deal but the temperature varies if you turn it down to 80.
77 78 seems to be a cutoff.

It gets "cold" here. I've seen mid-upper 30's in the morning here. I've also been to my SIL's in the mountains where it was in the 30's. I still never needed to touch the climate control.

BTW, our weather changes more than advertised. Last week, upper 80's; today, mid-50's. And I just paid $3.599 for premium at Costco.......
 
It goes to -20F or colder here.
I have a remote starter and when it's cold I run my car for up to 15 minutes before I drive it.
If you push the center buttons on the hot cold seat controls together they start up with the car and the seats warm up to the temperature setting.
 

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