Your mileage and problems

01V6 base 151k miles

replaced all common failures +++++++ lots more
current problems P0411 code and leaky valve gasket on intake manifold.

rubber and plastics are beginning to crumble from age and heat.

still cheaper than buying a new car.
 
2001 V8

I have replaced, in this order:
-alternator
-2 coils, 4 spark plugs
-catalytic converter
-front lower ball joints


Problems I'm aware of, but have been ignoring for a while
-other cat is bad
-rear drivers side window regulator
-clockspring
-ac doesn't work

It's also throwing a code for the brake pedal position switch sensor or whatever. I bought the part and put it in, and it's still throwing the code. Over it.

And of course, it has a failed secondary tensioner and hasn't been operational since the last week of September. As soon as I get it fixed this month, I'm gonna have to part ways with it. I don't want to deal with it anymore.. although at this point, it seems there's not many other common problems that can go wrong
 
Rivers said:
.... As soon as I get it fixed this month, I'm gonna have to part ways with it. I don't want to deal with it anymore.. although at this point, it seems there's not many other common problems that can go wrong
Click to expand...

I felt the same way after I had my v6 sitting in the street for 2 months after a repair shop butchered my transmission. After getting it fixed and getting the front ball joints replaced, there's not much more to do except what I listed in the front post. Knock on wood.
 
2003 sport v8 model
currently 89k miles

current issues
- clunking all four wheels (replacing sway bar bushings, and links, will replace inner/outer steering links later)
- intermittant battery drain (possibly starter or alt, havent bothered to look more into it)
- cops replaced at 85k (was getting engine safe mode shutdown@85k)
- cooling flush/fuel filter/inject clean at 83k (preventative maintenance)
- intermittent service parking break since i bought the car @64k miles in 2006 (possibly module or voltage issues)
- intermittant driver seat heater shut down, has only happened twice within a years time, not enough for me to bother with right now.
- replaced front driver/pass door regulators myself after breaking around 86k. cheap, easy fix imo.
- getting bubbling sounds from the coolant reservoir after the heat has been turned off, and when the car sits idle after being warmed up. stops bubbling after i turn the car off.

thats it. im thankful only this much is wrong, esp for an 03 @89k miles
i dont drive my car much, just to work and back. and thats 5 miles to and from :)

other issues non related to mileage which is visual
front/rear bumper needs repainting
driver side A pillar bent in, needs replacing
driver seat has some cracking but no foam exposure
driver door bent up from someone backing into it :\
 
2003 V8 - Occasional clatter at startup, squeaky steering column. Now that it's trying to warm up I'm feeling the urge to reach for the tool box again. Mileage is about 19.5MPG, going to do the battery reset and tuneup provided I get a clear day this week. If not there's always next week.
 
2003 V8 Sport: 150,000 km (93,000 miles)

Replaced since acquiring:
  • Sway bar end-links
  • Rear pass wheel bearing
  • Battery
  • Both rear lower control arms
  • Upstream O2 sensors
  • Spark plugs
  • Coil #8 under warranty
  • Full brake job
  • Changed rear pads shortly thereafter to Akebono Euro
  • 8 coils and plugs two months ago

Other maintenance performed:
  • Regular oil and filter changes (switched to full synthetic in 2012)
  • Air, fuel and cabin filters changed regularly as well
  • Coolant flush
  • Brake fluid change

Soon to do:
  • Transmission fluid exchange
  • Power steering fluid
  • Differential fluid

Problems:
  • Driver rear power door lock (actuator) broke
  • VCT sensors leaking oil
  • Possible vacuum leak - intermittently, RPM fluctuate when coasting at idle when cold out, stops when brakes are applied
  • Battery almost drained a few weeks back, hasn't happened again since
  • Driver side mirror position sensor (?) must be dirty/broken, mirror won't go into position correctly
  • Power steering squeak in winter
  • Transmission going 4-5-4 in the same spot during my daily commute - I thought it was a misfire at first
 
I bought my 2003 last February with ~72,000 mi on it, and it just went over 80,000 mi last month. So far:

  • 3 window regulators. I should just get the 4th replaced as preventative maintenance.
  • 1 door lock (wouldn't lock or unlock electrically when I bought the car).
  • It's currently in the shop to investigate harsh shifting into or out of reverse.
 
Speaking of problems my heat started working at low idle today all by itself.
I had cold air at idle speed, it's full hot air now at any RPM.
Not sure what that was but I have the part now so ...
 
StarPower said:
[*]1 door lock (wouldn't lock or unlock electrically when I bought the car).
[*]It's currently in the shop to investigate harsh shifting into or out of reverse.[/list]
Click to expand...

nelliott500 had a problem with his door lock a while back I believe. The problem is with the actuator. They're not hard to replace afaik.

Your harsh shifting is your shift solenoid. Shouldn't be more than $600 with fluids and labor if they don't find anything else wrong.
 
BigRigLS said:
Speaking of problems my heat started working at low idle today all by itself.
I had cold air at idle speed, it's full hot air now at any RPM.
Not sure what that was but I have the part now so ...
Click to expand...

Mine too, actually. Had it set to 23.5C (I usually raise it to 25.5 once the car warms up) and it was blowing nice, warm air. Must've been the warm weather we had on Monday?
 
fudge12 said:
Your harsh shifting is your shift solenoid. Shouldn't be more than $600 with fluids and labor if they don't find anything else wrong.
Click to expand...

I heard back from the shop, and they are replacing the solenoid. I should have it back tomorrow.
 
StarPower said:
I heard back from the shop, and they are replacing the solenoid. I should have it back tomorrow.
Click to expand...

cool glad to hear. I'm still having some rough jerking once in a while when going into park even after my rebuild. I'll be seeing the shop again soon. I was doing some "extended warranty" searching today, and to my surprise I should've done it. It costed me $2.7k for a the rebuild, where as it costs $2.3k for complete coverage of the engine, heating and cooling, axles, and transmission. To top it all off, it's for 5 years with 2 year interest free financing :mad:
 
I guess I can add to this. 03 V8 72000mi

Since my ownership
-All Coils,Plugs (Under warranty)
-All sway bar links
-Leaky water pump (Any one else have this?)

From past records I was able to see a rear caliper was replaced. The PO also told me they replaced the window regulator(s) (not sure which or how many) and something to do with the heat (I'm assuming dccv). And the lugs.
 
2000 210,00 miles

Replaced
Coolant degas bottle
Radiator
Both front upper contol arms
Both lower control arm and ball joints
Coils

I have non-sport v8
currently trying to figure out why when I place the shifter into d4 the car still stays in d5 shifts fine in driving but just curious if there are any ideals on what it could be.
 
guttaatl said:
currently trying to figure out why when I place the shifter into d4 the car still stays in d5 shifts fine in driving but just curious if there are any ideals on what it could be.
Click to expand...

Had that happen to me many moons ago. It was a bad diode in the shifter causing replacement of the shifter. It isn't too bad of a DIY job. You may need to acquire the shifter off eBay. You could also install the SST if you want.
 
LS4me said:
Had that happen to me many moons ago. It was a bad diode in the shifter causing replacement of the shifter. It isn't too bad of a DIY job. You may need to acquire the shifter off eBay. You could also install the SST if you want.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help what is the sst?
 
LS4me said:
The select shift shifter. It's the shifter from the sport model.
Click to expand...

Thanks I was just looking it up in previous threads does it or does it not require pcm work from the dealer? couldnt really seam to get a sure answer.
 
2004 v8 ultimate 1.5k shy of 80k miles

Both outer/inner tie rods
All stabilizer bar links
All upper control arms
Replaced all rotors/pads and front calipers two weeks ago
 
guttaatl said:
2000 210,00 miles
I have non-sport v8
currently trying to figure out why when I place the shifter into d4 the car still stays in d5 shifts fine in driving but just curious if there are any ideals on what it could be.
Click to expand...

I have this problem too after I got my transmission rebuilt. If I shift into 3 the dash still reports 2, but all other gears report fine and transmission shifts fine. The shop said the Range Sensor needs adjustment
 
guttaatl said:
Thanks I was just looking it up in previous threads does it or does it not require pcm work from the dealer? couldnt really seam to get a sure answer.
Click to expand...

Only if you want D4. If you're interested, I can tell you how to get D4 back after the change, BUT you will need a willing dealer.
 
Wow. where do I start.. lol

2003 V8 bought w/97K in February 2010, currently at 122K

Performed due to failure:
- VCG replacement June 2011
- COP and plug replacement June 2011
- Transmission rebuilt, fluid & filter replaced Feb 2012
- COP and plug replacement Mar 2013

Performed Preventatively:
- Fuel Filter replaced June 2011
- Water pump replaced April 2012
- Thermostat and Housing replaced April 2012
- Upper and Lower radiator hoses replaced April 2012
- coolant system flushed
- new pads and rotors turned somewhere in there

Currently gathering parts for:
- Window regulator clip replacement for FP and FD
- A/C Compressor, Drier, and Manifold/Hose Assy replacement
- Gatorback V-Belt, tensioner and idler pully replacement

Eventually will need to fix:
- Small clunk at FP wheel (sway bar links or ball joints? haven't investigated yet)
- RP door lock motor
- Catalytic Converters (they're not bad but they're not good)
 
LS4me said:
Only if you want D4. If you're interested, I can tell you how to get D4 back after the change, BUT you will need a willing dealer.
Click to expand...

The d4 wouldnt be important at all with select shifting just was usefull at times when the trasmission would want to go to 5th and back to 4th in short time frames.

Not meaning to hi-jack this thread but happen to see the sst locally for 43.45, so I picked it up before work anything I should know before peforming the swap? PS is there a way to swap the leather knob for the wood I currently have? Thanks for you help LS4me the sst was the only thing I really regreted not getting on my car all those years ago.
 
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