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i have replaced all the parts on the thread. i am not seeing any leaks or smell anti freeze any where. i simply don't know, the only thing i can think of is the coolant temp sensor is going out or the cyl head temp sensor is bad.

the fan works you can hear it speed up as the temp starts to rise the engine sounds and feels fine, it revs and accels smooth. i know i already had to replace the dorman cap and tank once! the one i have is new now, but still dorman

hi sorry to start a new post but i have searched and searched and i have this problem going on for a month now.:mad: i have a 05 v8 sport i have been having a cooling issue for the past month. the car is not over heating but it is running hot. i have my scan tool plugged in and it runs...

the door switch is going out. its inside the door lock actuator.

so i did the whole diagnosis( the one that i could do). i started with the DATC MODULE SELF-TESTS and i got the code 1265 witch says to ignore. i checked fuse F1.01 and F1.11 they are ok, fan turns on when i turn on a/c. i went ahead and started with the test...

i went back and checked through all the test and i tested the coil for resistance and i got 10 ohm! so the coil is good. so i think i have an open ground somewhere. i am not done with all the test but that seems to be the issue now. btw i got a better dvom now

tested the coil and it has high resistance too much for the dvom

sorry let me be more clear, i meant the compressor coil. ever since i got the car i never had a/c. the heater works good. the problem i have is when i went to change the condenser and receiver/drier and did a evac and charge on the system, but the compressor clutch never engaged. the system held...

sorry to bring up an old thread, but is there a way to test if it a bad compressor or coil? I have searched for days and cannot find any one that has asked this.

that is where i had originally taped the loc but i had the same problem as i do now, low/weak signal.

is it really as easy as that!!!! :confused::Bang:bowrofl: i will try it out. thank you

I keep going over all my wiring and I am double checking all connections. I justseem to be stuck on the low/ weak signal output.

at first i tried to tap into the left factory sub(grey/ orange and white/green). but the signal was weak like the OP had. after that i took the tap off and did the my tap before the factory amp in the trunk(grey/red and white/red) i am only installing one sub so i just need one signal since it...

sorry to bring up an old thread, but how did you end up wiring the amp. i am having the same problem with my ls sport (6 cd)

Ok so I will be ordering the dezza links when my income check arrives, and I will be replacing all the rear joints. Hopefully it helps with this weird issue. Thank you guys for your input, I am glad to have found this site.

How do the guys with lowered rides keep their suspension straight and not add camber?

I have looked at all the other parts and components and they look like they are ok, the sway bar link is shot. The toe link is bent down like it was pulled on so I can see how it would cause neg camber. It holding the hub in at an angle. Any one have the dezza links? Do you recommend them?

So I got a chance to look under the car and I can see the toe link is bent up!!!!!:eek::eek: would the toe link cause the camber to go like that? Ps I have pic and am trying to upload them.

the handling is good, I can release the wheel and the car drives straight. I am not the original owner but I have the history report. It could be that the previous owner did put those on there. I originals had that plan to take it to the alignment shop but if something was broken I rather...

The car is from N.J. so that would explain the rims. Yes IRS cars normally do have the neg camber. But my problem is that it is very Excessive.