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I have a Gen 1, and they are used with my factory Alpine. They give a cinema like surround sound.

I could have sworn that the inner tie rod end had a groove that you can hold it with a open box wrench. If not, hold it with a pipe wrench.

There's no easy way to check you fluid level color. But you can check the level by removing the center drain plug and slowly pump fluid in from the rear fill plug. If fluid immediately over flows from the drain plug, your fluid level is fine. If not, slowly keep pumping it until it over flows.

Replacing the VCGs are pretty easy. The only bolt that is difficult is the rear driver's side. Very tight fit. I used an angle wrench.

I had the same problem last year. The classic fix of a new/rebuilt solenoid is needed. This is a do-it yourselfer if you have 4 jack stands, a crawler and a hand fluid pump.

I bbought some BWD coils from Advance Auto Parts. They sell them for $50. I've been running with these for a few years. No problems. "KNOCK ON WOOD"

I have had my car for 6 years, and I never had long starts. This one puzzle me. LS never had fuel pump problems, unless it was in an accident.

That happen to me on a couple bolts. Luckily, those are the easiest bolt to extract. You local Auto Zone sells the exact replace bolts and the bolt extractor with the drill bit. Put some towels around your valves when your start drilling so the metal dust don't get in there. One of my bolts...

This makes me proud that I own an LS.

I will be back in the States next month, and I'm pretty sure my ride needs some more shoes, especially after setting for a long time. If you haven't sold them by next month, let me know.

I bet my money on an open thermostat. Easy to check. Pull it and see it.

That happened to me too a couple years ago. My stupid butt, I replaced the rear brake pads and both rear rotors. Drove it less than 5 miles until I smelled somthing burning. I messed up a brand new rotor. Luckily, Advance Auto Parts exchanged it for a new one. I had to take a mini pencil torch...

Take note of all the advices above. If everything looks good and still no check engine light, the next time you have that problem at 40-50mph, try slamming on the acceleration to through a code while your OBDII code reader is monitoring pending codes. Although your check engine light won't...

You can do a quick 5 minute check yourself. With an multimeter on ther battery and car not running, it should read a little over 12 volts. Keeping the meter on the battery, crank the car. The meter should read around 13.5 volts. Turn on your high beam, fog lights and AC. This will check the load...

I did some research and found this is a possible fix for our problems.

Seems like you have some kind of vacuum leak. Check your hoses.

I had the same problems with my transmission on my 2000 V8. It use to slam in reverse and slips from first to second and always throws an "E" for check transmission. I replaced the solenoid body with a rebuilt one. It totally fixed my reverse but every now and then, it still slips between first...

Even if you find a ball joint to replaceit with, it's very likely that you will damage the upper control arm when you press it in. The lower control arem is more durable. Do your self a favor and buy the upper control arm with the ball joints already install. You will be glad you did in the end.

When I changed mines, it was a perfect opportunity to clean your break lines. I would remove both pistons from the calipers and clean those real good with a rag and brake cleaner. Be careful not to tear the rubber boot. Flush all that black brake fluid until it comes clear. Luckily, brake fluid...

To repair my problem, should I get another solenoid body? Buy a new one instead of a rebuilt one and add the additive?