2001 Lincoln LS8 in Virginia (757)

Doesn't drip onto the ground does not equal doesn't leak!
 
Forgot a post



Got her inspected after a two year inspection overlapse.<br />
Gave my baby Ellisana Her first bath today : )<br />
Realized My Aluminum coolant line has a hairline crack in it.<br />
Had it explode twice : ).. yay right?<br />
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fresh oil / filter.. fuel filter.. antifreeze. . And intake

The oil is for flushing. It'll be Changed in 1k mi. I was told to use Risolene and Mystery which I'm going to do.
 
Well, YESTERDAY I put my radiator hose back on my thermostat because it decided to pop off going 40mph on the freeway in traffic luckily. I had to pull over with barely any coolant and literally take apart and put back together my car.


That's what I did today. Now I can't get it from smoking and overheating even though the coolant has been refilled and air has been removed...somehow it keeps getting trapped back in there. Nothing exploded or imploded... ugh this car..


Ok I'm done...

After fighting with this for two days and the overheating for the last two weeks, I'm just going to take it to the dealer tomorrow to have it fully examined and flushed. I can't even drive 6 blocks now after yesterday's fiasco.
 
Kid_Lyrics said:
... Now I can't get it from smoking and overheating even though the coolant has been refilled and air has been removed...somehow it keeps getting trapped back in there. ...
Click to expand...

It's real simple. Replace ALL plastic cooling system parts (includes hoses with plastic parts) with NEW (Motorcraft, not Dorman) and fill and bleed exactly by the book.
Verify that the cooling fan is working correctly. If converted to electric, verify electric fan moves enough air.
Inexperienced dealer my claim head gasket issue.
 
joegr said:
It's real simple. Replace ALL plastic cooling system parts (includes hoses with plastic parts) with NEW (Motorcraft, not Dorman) and fill and bleed exactly by the book.
Verify that the cooling fan is working correctly. If converted to electric, verify electric fan moves enough air.
Inexperienced dealer my claim head gasket issue.
Click to expand...
Yea I was told I had a head gasket and in order to change the thermostat to pull the intake off. So I know not to go to that dealer. I'm going to a different one. Besides, I'm literally exhausted worrying about it and trying to fix it at this point. I'm hoping the dealer can solve the problem. I don't have the time to keep troubleshooting myself.

I WILL however, be replacing a the plastic parts soon. I just need to get to work in order to afford it.

Oh and another thing. Could a misfiring past be the culprit to overheating? I think I need a new CAT but I'm not sure. Given the codes i posted a few back, it seems like I need a new cat. I was going to run seafoam through it but got stuck at this coolant issue.
 
Oh yea, speaking of this CAT thing.


A few weeks ago I replaced my Toasted Spark plugs.

After getting the Cylinder 6 and Cylinder 8 misfire codes, I decided to change the coils and Plugs.

Cylinder 6

12806263_10153466111778017_7817784631713397449_n.jpg


Cylinder 8

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Which leads me to believe that my Cat is toast and could be bad. I have a weird sound when I accelerate. It's like a pegging or sputtering sound.

But back to this cooling issue.

I'm so stuck on this cooling issue that I'm forgetting to keep this chronologically organized.
 
KidL,I messaged you.......I really think your overheating is probably the fan not coming on or running fast enough,OR a bad thermostat like I just got from Auto Zone. I detailed how to check the thermostat in the message I sent you. don-ohio
 
Here are some videos of what went on yesterday.

1. Trying the bleeder hose method. Led me nowhere but right back to it with air still in the system.

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2. Bleeder hose, took pressure off the cap just a bit, and also had a bit of bubbling in the rear.
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3. The bubbling in the tank I was speaking about
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4. Running the car with the Bottle top off. I read that it's a way to burp the system. I had a tank under the car catching the residual. However, it just seems like a waste.
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Anything here that I'm doing extremely stupid? Anything I should do again until a certain point?
 
The buffering on those videos is pretty bad, so I didn't see all of every video.
Just having the screw loose on the heater bleed won't do anything. Remove it to bleed, replace it tightly after.
None of them show the bleeding procedure. You must do this to the letter (you will have to drain some first): http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/drain-lincoln-ls-cooling-system/
Anyway, I don't think doing this is actually going to help you. It seems very clear in video 2 that the degas bottle is leaking from its sides or bottom. Given the coolant being expelled in video 4, you must have other leaks at the front of the engine pulling air in.
The LS has failsafe cooling, but messing around with it like this is just asking for serious engine damage. I know of one LS that had head/head-gasket damage, and I suspect more of this is how it happened.

I understand economic problems, but if you can't afford the cooling system parts, you need to dump this car and buy something less fun, less attractive, less luxury, but way way cheaper to maintain. Honda maybe?
 
joegr said:
The buffering on those videos is pretty bad, so I didn't see all of every video.
Just having the screw loose on the heater bleed won't do anything. Remove it to bleed, replace it tightly after.
None of them show the bleeding procedure. You must do this to the letter (you will have to drain some first): http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/drain-lincoln-ls-cooling-system/
Anyway, I don't think doing this is actually going to help you. It seems very clear in video 2 that the degas bottle is leaking from its sides or bottom. Given the coolant being expelled in video 4, you must have other leaks at the front of the engine pulling air in.
The LS has failsafe cooling, but messing around with it like this is just asking for serious engine damage. I know of one LS that had head/head-gasket damage, and I suspect more of this is how it happened.

I understand economic problems, but if you can't afford the cooling system parts, you need to dump this car and buy something less fun, less attractive, less luxury, but way way cheaper to maintain. Honda maybe?
Click to expand...

Well No. I'm not dumping the car given I've already bought it. That doesn't even make sense if I at this specific point can't get to new parts. Wouldn't that mean I don't have the funds to get a new car? Sounds like common sense to me.

Besides, who is really going to buy the car with this issue? No one. So no, that's out. NO more mentions. If you're not going to give me the extra funds to buy a different car, then please keep that suggestion away from this discussion. Sarcasm isn't needed, Thanks.


Back on topic----

I know the videos don't show the full bleeding procedure. I didn't plan to record anything at all. I just so happen to record those things happening as a reference to myself. I was in the process of bleeding the car when I initially recorded them. I fully removed the bleeder screw every single time so far. Only reason I left it partially in this time was because it was coming out with so much force that i was trying to ease it out. Which I then fully removed anyway.

How is it clear that it's leaking from the sides or bottom?

Let's say I replace all the plastic and it still overheats. What's next? The Water pump?
 
Kid_Lyrics said:
...How is it clear that it's leaking from the sides or bottom?

Let's say I replace all the plastic and it still overheats. What's next? The Water pump?
Click to expand...

Steam coming from that area.
The water pump is unlikely, but it is easy enough to remove and check. There's no reason to replace it on speculation.
No coolant in weep holes = shaft seal is not leaking. Impeller and fins on impeller intact = pump okay. No play in shaft = bearings okay.

I'll not say any more about not being able to afford this car, except for this. The cost of rebuilding the cooling system is far from the biggest expense you will have.
 
Kid_Lyrics said:
Yes joegr, I'm aware of blown engines etc etc.
Click to expand...

I'm not talking about repairs like blown engine or failed transmission. I'm talking about routine maintenance expenses, such as suspension parts.
 
The center disc of the thermostat will move and you'll see light around it. I used a flashlight behind it because at nearly 64, my eyes need more light. You sound like a young dude that can probably see a gnat on a fence pole a hundred yards away!LOL! don-ohio :)^)
P.S. Didn't see yer post,Joe,til I did mine.
 
You can push down on the center part and open it. The spring will push it back closed when you release it. It boiling water, it should open completely on its own.
 
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