2001 Lincoln LS8 in Virginia (757)

Well,like most water pumps,you see if the shaft bearing has radial play(wobble) and if the seal has been leaking out the weep hole in the casting. Mine had a slight wobble to it so I replaced it. Doesn't mean it won't pump okay with SOME wobble,but best not have hardly any.
That flush and fill will cost you plenty. I'd try it myself again,UNLESS you're sure you got a true bleed by the book when you did it and you had strong enough antifreeze in there.
Anyway, no one can say you didn't try to fix it yourself. I hope you get it solved soon. don-ohio :)^)
 
I thought I said that...
Anyway, yes the flush/fill will cost, and if the problem is what I think, it won't help at all. (Actually, I don't see anyway it could help, unless they are really nice and do a diagnostic for you.)
 
Well,like most water pumps,you see if the shaft bearing has radial play(wobble) and if the seal has been leaking out the weep hole in the casting. Mine had a slight wobble to it so I replaced it. Doesn't mean it won't pump okay with SOME wobble,but best not have hardly any.
That flush and fill will cost you plenty. I'd try it myself again,UNLESS you're sure you got a true bleed by the book when you did it and you had strong enough antifreeze in there.
Anyway, no one can say you didn't try to fix it yourself. I hope you get it solved soon. don-ohio :)^)

Yea, thats the thing. With all the money I spent on the parts already and gas getting them, I dont have enough to get that full strength. I thought it was good idea, but I have to save the rest for the dealer to see if at least they can fix it.


Oh, one more thing. I have smoke coming from the rear left (near the bottle) of the engine. Would that indicate a bad bottle or a head issue? I haven't ignored replacing the bottle, however, I don't want to overlook the smoke coming from the rear
 
Smoke and steam are two very different things.
The steam I saw on the video is from a leaking degas bottle (90% likely).
Smoke would be from oil leaking from the valve cover and dripping on the exhaust.
 
Smoke and steam are two very different things.
The steam I saw on the video is from a leaking degas bottle (90% likely).
Smoke would be from oil leaking from the valve cover and dripping on the exhaust.

Yea, that was my assumption. So, I've got that covered. Cool.
 
When they get done with their flush,you should have at least a 50/50 mix.That Degas can from Ford is really expensive.....you probably better make sure of no leaks before you let them do a useless flush. How far you have to drive to get there? don-ohio
 
When they get done with their flush,you should have at least a 50/50 mix.That Degas can from Ford is really expensive.....you probably better make sure of no leaks before you let them do a useless flush. How far you have to drive to get there? don-ohio

6 miles (15mins GPS time), hell, I couldn't make it a whole mile before I called out for work yesterday.

But, I'll devise a plan to get me there......... Hopefully
 
Currently...

942544_10153496215563017_4325362815314370368_n.jpg


1157391_10153496216323017_4426155582934879255_n.jpg


Hoping they can either find and fix my coolant issue, or tell me what else is wrong.
 
Fan


Fan Pump

Fan Reservoir..


All.... bad......


Any place I can look on how to replace these?
 
Fan


Fan Pump

Fan Reservoir..


All.... bad......


Any place I can look on how to replace these?

Well, not for less than the plastic parts costs...

Anyway, I suspect that not all of those parts are bad. Most dealers don't have the test equipment to determine if it is the pump or the fan motor, nor will the put in the time and labor to determine which for the standard diagnostic charge. Instead, they give the safe (for them) answer that it all needs to be replaced. They know that if they replace it all, it will work with no doubts.

You have a few choices here:

1. Replace all or some of the system with new parts. This cost thousands if the parts are even still available. I assume this option is out for you.
2. Replace the actuator with a new one (<$200). This is the most common failure. Going used doesn't make much sense for this part because it is a wear item and a common failure.
3. Replace with parts from a junkyard. I don't know what this will cost, or how likely you are to find working parts.
4. Replace with an electric fan. This can be and has been done. The issue will be getting a fan that is strong enough to move enough air, but doesn't draw so much current that the alternator can't handle it. You'll also have to rig something to turn it on as needed and off when not. There are aftermarket fans and fan controllers that will do this, but they aren't super cheap.

Once you get the fan fixed, you will still have major cooling system problems. They just noticed the fan problem and probably won't look for the other issues till the fan is fixed. (I saw your videos, it's not just the fan!)
 
Do a search on this forum about converting to electric fan on Gen I. So that's it,then.............fan wasn't turning fast enough. I was looking at it on your film,but you know you just can't tell really when you're not actually there.
Is that all they've mentioned? don-ohio :)^)
 
Well, not for less than the plastic parts costs...

Anyway, I suspect that not all of those parts are bad. Most dealers don't have the test equipment to determine if it is the pump or the fan motor, nor will the put in the time and labor to determine which for the standard diagnostic charge. Instead, they give the safe (for them) answer that it all needs to be replaced. They know that if they replace it all, it will work with no doubts.

You have a few choices here:

1. Replace all or some of the system with new parts. This cost thousands if the parts are even still available. I assume this option is out for you.
2. Replace the actuator with a new one (<$200). This is the most common failure. Going used doesn't make much sense for this part because it is a wear item and a common failure.
3. Replace with parts from a junkyard. I don't know what this will cost, or how likely you are to find working parts.
4. Replace with an electric fan. This can be and has been done. The issue will be getting a fan that is strong enough to move enough air, but doesn't draw so much current that the alternator can't handle it. You'll also have to rig something to turn it on as needed and off when not. There are aftermarket fans and fan controllers that will do this, but they aren't super cheap.

Once you get the fan fixed, you will still have major cooling system problems. They just noticed the fan problem and probably won't look for the other issues till the fan is fixed. (I saw your videos, it's not just the fan!)


When you say "I suspect that not all of those parts are bad." Are you suggesting I replace them one by one to see if it gets any better? Should I replace them all at the same time as the dealer would do?

Quite frankly, I have no choice right at this very moment to go with (3). I'm planning to replace all of these new in the future. However, right now I NEED to get to work or else I won't be able for afford anything.

(4) sounds like a good idea but a lot of work. I'm sure the forums have something on it. Thats a future mod.


You said "You will still have major cooling system problems." Are you speaking about something I haven't replaced yet such as the Degas bottle? If not, then what are you speaking on?
 
Do a search on this forum about converting to electric fan on Gen I. So that's it,then.............fan wasn't turning fast enough. I was looking at it on your film,but you know you just can't tell really when you're not actually there.
Is that all they've mentioned? don-ohio :)^)

Yea, I don't know about the fan speeds. I just knew that it was turning when the car ran. I'm gonna stick with stock parts for now.

Yes, that's all they mentioned.

Cooling Fan Motor Replacement

Radiator Cooling Fan Pump: Hydraulic

Hydraulic Cooling Fan Fluid Reservoir


I'm search but it seems the forums have these parts under different names. Any help on how to rename them to find them?
 
So, this is what happened LITERALLY as I parked my car.

My radiator hose that blew off on the Highway, yea it blew off again.

1. This is the Steaming from the hood.

th_Steaming%20Hood.jpg



2. This is the line


th_Radiator%20Hose.jpg



I just can't get a break. I've been working on this car since the day I bought it. However, I won't quit.
 
A few points to ponder.

Even when the car does overheat for whatever reason, hoses don't blow off. The Degas cap has a regulator in it that releases pressure above 15 or 16 PSI. Your hose keeps blowing off, because the nipple that it attaches to is broken. I can see it in the video. The end of it is missing.

Any overheating that you have while driving at 30 MPH or more is not because of the fan. The fan is basically turned off at and above that speed anyway.
My own experience it that idling with the AC off takes very little fan (fan stays at very low speeds) to keep the engine from overheating.
 
Actuator: XW4Z-3783-CA $175
Pump: YW4Z-8C628-BA $597
Pump pulley: XW4Z-8C647-AB $188
Reservoir: $83
Fan motor/assembly: 6W4Z-8C607-A $434

If you go new, there is danger is not replacing all at once. If there is contaminated fluid in the system, it will damage the new parts.

(On the plus side, prices for these parts have gone down from what they once were.)
 
A few points to ponder.

Even when the car does overheat for whatever reason, hoses don't blow off. The Degas cap has a regulator in it that releases pressure above 15 or 16 PSI. Your hose keeps blowing off, because the nipple that it attaches to is broken. I can see it in the video. The end of it is missing.

Any overheating that you have while driving at 30 MPH or more is not because of the fan. The fan is basically turned off at and above that speed anyway.
My own experience it that idling with the AC off takes very little fan (fan stays at very low speeds) to keep the engine from overheating.

Remember when I said it blew off on the highway? Well, that's when that end piece broke off. It's not substantial at all. In the video it looks like a lot, however, its literally half of one thread.

I'll upload some pictures of my Radiator fan shroud et al.
 
12476988_10153496764983017_587591551_o.jpg



This part of the shroud where the fan is, has been wet for a few days. It was wet before the hose blew off. I figured it was because the cap exploded on me a few times so the fluid just so happen to get there.

After further understanding, that's not what happened.

12874306_10153496765008017_791560615_o.jpg

12874551_10153496765263017_13350438_o.jpg


Just a few close-ups

12476810_10153496765183017_1316222421_o.jpg

12874600_10153496765193017_24009791_o.jpg

12873496_10153496765223017_828157341_o.jpg


Here's a video of the fan speed. Well, I guess the video becomes useless after reading what @Joegr just said. So I guess you can ignore my talking in the video. I thought that was the problem given what I had read on the forums and such.

th_Slow%20Radiator%20Fan%202.jpg
 
I'll tell you what I'd do,KidL.................I'd get an electric cooling fan mounted on there one way or another. I'd wire it into a heavy circuit that only has power when key is on.
I'd find a control that's heat actuated and mount it near thermostat area to interrupt power to the fan until engine starts to get hot.
When I'm out of money,I'm the king of cheap.LOL!
I've already done this a year ago to a person's car that had no money at all. I didn't interrupt it though. I just wired a heavy wire into the wiper circuit on her van. It works every time she starts up,but it's only one of a double fan system(doesn't pull as many amps as yours). So far so good. don-ohio :)^)
 
I'll tell you what I'd do,KidL.................I'd get an electric cooling fan mounted on there one way or another. I'd wire it into a heavy circuit that only has power when key is on.
I'd find a control that's heat actuated and mount it near thermostat area to interrupt power to the fan until engine starts to get hot.
When I'm out of money,I'm the king of cheap.LOL!
I've already done this a year ago to a person's car that had no money at all. I didn't interrupt it though. I just wired a heavy wire into the wiper circuit on her van. It works every time she starts up,but it's only one of a double fan system(doesn't pull as many amps as yours). So far so good. don-ohio :)^)

Yea, that'll come in the future. lol. I can't do all of that right now. I"m just going to get these OEM parts from diff cars and pray they work. Its' the best i can do right now. Yea I know its not ideal but this car being down nd me not being at work is eating away the money I have. So I've got to start as basic and cheap as possible. Hence, Why I keep mentioning money. If I had another way to work for at least one week, Hell I'd be fine!
 
Okay,I understand that. When you go to get the hydraulic fan stuff,you better get that piece I just saw where the hose blew off. That's not long for this world. don-ohio :)^)
 
Okay,I understand that. When you go to get the hydraulic fan stuff,you better get that piece I just saw where the hose blew off. That's not long for this world. don-ohio :)^)

Thats the part I JUST BOUGHT! Good thing I bought two but this was the better out of them tho. The other was brown like the old one.
 
Thats the part I JUST BOUGHT! Good thing I bought two but this was the better out of them tho. The other was brown like the old one.

That's the problem with all the old plastic parts (basically rotted), and why you are not likely to succeed in solving this.
(Sorry, but it is what it is.)
 

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