2002 lincoln LS Power steering stopped working, fluid leaking under the car

You would have came off better if you would have went to advance auto, and bought the part. Same price wit a lifetime warrenty. Mines went out a week ago, it sat till I got off work been up and running since.

The work involved was removing the air cleaner housing,

Removing the resevior

Unplug the connector

Put your 19mm deep well socket on take a stuby rachet 1/4 or smaller cause it's a tight spot

And work the rachet in small increments to to the space and it comes right off.

Replacing is proceedure in reverse
Snug it up tight but do not make it so tight that the next man have to blow it off, and your good

Fill the system turn wheels till you see air bubbles or a lot of foam, start car let in run for a minute shut it off turn wheel lock to lock top off with fluid let it sit and settle in take it for a drive with lots of left and right hand turns your good.
 
I went to napa and advance but they didn't have it in my area. Thanks for the tips on changing it the ford manual I have only tells how to change the inline one. I have the ratchet gotta borrow a socket from someone but that won't be hard to do my dad probably has one. I just wish the stupid part would ship, If I could cancel and reorder I would.
 
1LoudLS said:
i can tell yall this, my cavalier will drive through two to three times as much snow as the LS will, the damn thing is a billy goat in sh!tty weather

sure the balance of the LS is better in handling, but there are too many times the LS just can't get going, and if I can't start to drive it, then it doesn't matter which one feels better.

now if this car had a damn LSD from the start, that would make a huge difference...
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I always praised my LS in the snow. I figured it would suck, but I found as long as you can get the ole' girl moving, and keep her momentum going you're alright.

traction off, feather throttle and have a sand bag or two in the trunk above the wheels.
 
112 LS said:
I always praised my LS in the snow. I figured it would suck, but I found as long as you can get the ole' girl moving, and keep her momentum going you're alright.

traction off, feather throttle and have a sand bag or two in the trunk above the wheels.
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I don't have to do anything special to drive my cavalier in the snow... it just goes, and it doesn't have any problems getting going, don't have to turn the traction off and don't have to be extremely careful with the throttle.



as far as being able to praise my LS in the snow, the only cars it beats are mustangs, camaros, and corvettes...
 
I am going to try changing the pressure switch tomorrow as long as it isn't raining. Is there anything else I need to know? I am assuming it should be pretty straightforward but if there is any minor thing that I am missing or need to know please let me hear because I don't wanna mess this up. Thank you everyone for your help.
 
Good luck, I'll be back to hear how it worked out. I'll prob be doing the same soon myself.
 
1LoudLS said:
I don't have to do anything special to drive my cavalier in the snow... it just goes, and it doesn't have any problems getting going, don't have to turn the traction off and don't have to be extremely careful with the throttle.



as far as being able to praise my LS in the snow, the only cars it beats are mustangs, camaros, and corvettes...
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I used to have a 1996 Mustang GT will not move on flat ground in the snow lol. FrWD is just better in the snow in my opinion. You have the engine weight over the tires and it pulls you better I mean it isn't a Four Wheel Drive truck with sand bags but at least they can get you most places unless there are to many big hills. My LS doesn't want to go at all in the area where I live. I am lucky to get it out of the driveway letalone to work or anywhere else. I have some tire chains but they aren't the right size and I am scared to try an improvise with them.
 
zsquared24 said:
I am going to try changing the pressure switch tomorrow as long as it isn't raining. Is there anything else I need to know? I am assuming it should be pretty straightforward but if there is any minor thing that I am missing or need to know please let me hear because I don't wanna mess this up. Thank you everyone for your help.
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Get you some brake cleaner to clean up the oils that's spilled, also you might have to press down some on the a/c metal lines just be careful when pressing them down you don't to bend them or over stress them just enough to get the rachet on the socket.

By the way out the socket on first them attach the rachet to it, it'll be to long to do it as one peice, spray the area wit Btake clean real good before you remove the old one that way you don't risk contaminating the system, with dirt.

Take your time and all should go well. Remeber to jack the front wheels up off the ground I used a jack stand and my jack. It makes turning the wheels easier.

Good luck.
 
Ok I have my socket now and I am ready to do this, I was wondering one thing.. Do I have to have the car on Jackstands like the above user said I have ramps to pull it up on but I forgot to borrow any jackstands. I guess the main question is can you do it with the car on the ground without having to take the force of the car off the tires. I have a jack but only have 1 at my house that I know of that will work under the car I have a 25 ton railroad jack from the forties but there is no chance of using that so unless I hear different from anyone on here I will assume I can change this piece with the car just sitting on the ground or on the ramps. Thanks for all the tips guys. Also an above poster said you needed to removed the resevoir the air cleaner housing and all that is that really necessary I believe I can get to it without all that extra work as all that stuff is in front of where the pump is not behind it in the way. Looks to me like I can just disconnect the wire ratchet the old one out and the new one in. PLease share your opinions, if not today I will be doing this tomorrow most likely later today though because it isn't raining cats and dogs for once.
 
sorry I can't answer your question.

but....

whatever you do. do not, get under the car using only that ancient jack... or any jack.
 
zsquared24 said:
Ok I have my socket now and I am ready to do this, I was wondering one thing.. Do I have to have the car on Jackstands like the above user said I have ramps to pull it up on but I forgot to borrow any jackstands. ....
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Yes, you can do it on ramps.
Replace the part, fill the reservoir (Mercon V, not power steering fluid), back the car off the racks, and then turn the steering wheel lock to lock a few times to try and get the air out. The down side to doing this way is that you will scrub your front tires a little bit. Better to do that than to risk the car falling off a jack.
 
To be honest you do not need the car in the air in ramps, at this point they are useless.
The jack stands I mentioned in my previous comment, that allows you turn the wheels freely when you drain and fill after the repairs, you have to turn the wheels lock to lock to purge air out of the system.
That lock to lock would take brute force if you don't jack the front wheels up off the ground. Plus you add the risk of causing flat spots in your tires doing with them on the ground. Also you risk damaging the pump if you start the car to help circulate the fluid.
 
I will keep you guys posted I will probably do the tomorrow I may pull it in the grass to turn the tires side to side. See I didn't know you were supposed to do it with the car off. I figured that you just put it on and turned it on then went back and forth thanks for letting me know that. I would have been doing it wrong. Thankfully I do have a bottle of Mercon on hand and my resevoir is still almost full so I should have plenty of fluid. Does a lot leak out when you take that sensor out. Also user 112 LS I wouldn't get under it with the jack that they put in the trunk I have a mini floor jack I keep with me to jack it up but I don't trust any jack without jackstands or support when getting under a car. Main question is should I be able to do this without taking out the air box and everything like one user stated? I mean the thing is not hard to get to I don't really see any reason to remove the reservoir and air box when it is behind that stuff anyway and not blocked by it. I was thinking I could just use my deep well socket and a 2 inch extension with a small 1/2' drive ratchet. I couldn't find a socket that was 1/4" drive from any of my friends and I don't wanna buy one just for this. Plus it might be in there tight and 1/4" drive isn't that strong.
 
The 1/2 might work,it'll be tight be it might work.

there is no need for a extension, it'll be to long and you will be up against the valve cover,

You have to remove the air filter box there is no other way, and no short cuts, it has to come out completely, there is one bolt holding it at the top, the bottom is pegged into a slot just pull up,

If you are going to reuse the fluid make sure you place it in a clean container that way you prevent contamination of the system.


The grass should be fine if you don't mind bald spots in it.

You need jack stands or at least two jacks,

A quick work around would be to use the factory jack to just barely lift one side and your floor jack on the other side to lift it equally,

It's a simple process once you get everything out of the way ( air box ) you'll notice that the space opens up quite a bit,

As for ratcheting the sensor out there's not much room, so you have to do short turns to get it to bag out, once it's out place the new sensor in and thread it by hand until it's snugged then snug it the rest of the way with the rachet.

You might want to invest in the 1/4 drive I have found that the 1/4 drive fits in a lot of spots on this car that a 1/2 or bigger wouldn't.



Take your time and you should be ok.

Trust me this was my first time changing it
I learned from the info on this site ( thanks guys ) and it saved me a bunch of money.
 
I have a 1/4 inch drive but it I borrowed a small 1/2 drive ratchet to go with the socket so it will basically be the same thing just a little bigger. The one I borrowed is half the size of my proto 1/2 inch ratchet I believe it will work fine. I still don't see why the air box needs to come out it really isn't in the way this sensor is in the back of the pump. I mean I may look at it and see what you are saying but from the last look I had it didn't look like it would be in the way at all. I will go out there in a little bit it is a horrible day again here today but I will put the socket and ratchet on it and see how it fits in the area. I will let you know more once I do that. Thank you for the help
 
Oh I don't have to worry about bald spots in the grass I live out in the country on a farm they wouldn't even be noticed. Others were saying I didn't need to jack it up at all though it would just be harder to turn the wheels on the ground. So what you are telling me is that I need to for maximum easiness on turning but it isn't absolutely necessary to jack it up
 
I may be shot for this, but... I feel that it is also okay to run the engine to do this. I don't think that the pump will be hurt by running dry for just a minute or less.
 
zsquared24 said:
Oh I don't have to worry about bald spots in the grass I live out in the country on a farm they wouldn't even be noticed. Others were saying I didn't need to jack it up at all though it would just be harder to turn the wheels on the ground. So what you are telling me is that I need to for maximum easiness on turning but it isn't absolutely necessary to jack it up
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Correct its not something that you have to do it just makes it easier to turn the wheel.

The airbox is something that has to come out, there's no other way around that.
 
I just want to thank you guys for all the help. The car turning on a dime and the power steering is working great. Took a while to get all the air out but I done it in soft gravel so no harm to the tires as there was powder underneath the gravel. I am so thrilled to have this fixed and it is thanks to you kind people on this forum that I was able to do it. Next is fixing the vacuum leak which I have already done somewhat but it is an easy fix just need some better silicone once again thank you all for the help my wife and I really do appreciate it.
 
Also the airbox was not in the way at all, It was not the sensor in the high pressure line it was in the back of the pump itself so I didn't have to take it out there was plenty of room just had to word my socket slow.
 
Your welcome sir, glad to see you are back up and running.

LVC has been a great help to us all. The information here is worth its weight in gold.
 
zsquared24 said:
it gives this as the system Steering System
The power steering system consists of the following components:

power steering pressure lower hose (3F524)
power steering pressure hose (3E576)
power steering pump (3A674)
power steering pump reservoir (3R700)
power steering reservoir pump hose (3E525)
power steering return hose (3A713)
steering gear (3504)

then mentions the psp elsewhere I am assuming this switch must be part of the pump assembly and is not listed in the manual separately
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I need to replace 2 hoses. I don't know which ones yet. Should I just do all 4? How difficult is the job for someone capable but inexperienced with this job. To my credit, I have replaced the pressure switch.
 
We have a 2002 LS V6 and I looked up this part >>> 1W4Z-3N824-DA and it says it doesn't fit my LS Does the V6 have a different switch?
 
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