BBK Mustang long tubes install Bets?

Raped Ape said:
I am interested in what you are doing here with the home made bracing and straddled beam, but I am lost in the reason for them. Can you explain to me what they are for? I just can not figure it out or my drugs are kicking in. Thanks
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it supports the engine from the top and holds it in place while the front sub frame is dropped out from underneath. Its pretty much a necessity due to space constraints in the engine bay.
 
Thanks, I read the thread a couple of times and still did not see about the k-member, makes since now. ;) Now carry on :D
 
This is not a hi-jack attempt, but the K-Members on these Marks, are there interchangeable from other Ford Platforms, the reason I ask is aftermarket performance K-Members. Thanks
 
Raped Ape said:
This is not a hi-jack attempt, but the K-Members on these Marks, are there interchangeable from other Ford Platforms, the reason I ask is aftermarket performance K-Members. Thanks
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I'm sure i read that AJE made acouple tubular K's for the mark. I have an AJE in my mustang nice piece. There are different levels of tubular K's drag ,street, and road race. Lightest ,medium weight and HD weight to handle high corner g's. I think peeps had some problems with the first couple mark tubular ones. I think the thunderbird(89-96?) is same MN-12 platform as the mark don't know 100% if k's interchange but thats would be closest.
 
I don't think it would ever happen since it is his wifes car but I would like to line up against my neighbors GTO.

Post a video of you spanking your neighbor.This time I can tell him it was N/A vs N/A. :D
 
Right on the Mark said:
I'm gonna start off by saying I feel the love from this site. Thanks for all the concern to my welfare. I really mean that. Now on to turnbuckles.
#1)I bought these alum ones for mock up, no one local had steel ones. The alum 5/16 ones are rated for only 140 lbs x 2 would only be 280lbs total weight.
#2) The steel 5/16 ones are rated at 800lbs each X2 is 1600 lbs total thats 2.5 times weight on engine.(figure 600 for alum engine)
#3) The timing cover 5/16 bolt/studs are same dia as the alt mount bolts that everyone uses to hold up engine. Alt bolts only have a spread of 4.5 inches where timing cover studs have a spread of 12 inches. 12 inches better load spacing and help to not let engine rotate.
#4)I will be making the turn buckle part out of steel and welding the eyes shut. Just looking for left hand tap now.
#5) Again thanks for the input!!!
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I'm glad to hear about the turnbuckles...

Now, the reason I asked about those studs....
Do you know what grade they are? Make sure they're high up there. You don't want to support the engine by some crap that's only meant to hold a bracket or something.

Again, just trying to look out for you...
 
There are no markings or way to tell what the studs are made of. All I know is there FORD steel and thats plenty strong to hold this up. The brackets that are on the studs are right up against a surface. Its not like there 2 inches out on the end of a stud. Also people just use the stock alt Ford bolts to hand engine from. I will wrap a saftey chain around upper bar and bolt to engine some where. Like mentioned I really don't want an engine on my head! ;)

Kinda bummed out right now. All I got done today was take a pencil erasure dia paint chip out of my maita door and knock some wheel finish off the center cap area of one of my Lincoln LSE rims finding out my coats 20/20 does not do 17's. Glued the paint chip back on and touch up painted the rim. Hope they look ok. :mad:

Well besides finishing up both HG's in this old ride. Its the 18 year olds across street. Note not my garage and not my tools. LOL Quiz time :first to say what car this is wins a cookie.

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Right on the Mark said:
I'm sure i read that AJE made acouple tubular K's for the mark. I have an AJE in my mustang nice piece. There are different levels of tubular K's drag ,street, and road race. Lightest ,medium weight and HD weight to handle high corner g's. I think peeps had some problems with the first couple mark tubular ones. I think the thunderbird(89-96?) is same MN-12 platform as the mark don't know 100% if k's interchange but thats would be closest.
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frogman had them make one and it didnt fit at all
Right on the Mark said:
Here is a post all about said K-mamber with pics.
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=125154
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as much as the markviii and the birds are the same there are many differances (after shoving a dohc into a bird i learned) the nose on the bird is a couple inches shorter, so theres a good chance the front mount is in a different location

as for everyone being scared to drop the k its cake. support engine, undo steering shaft, upper shock mounts, air lines, motor mounts, unbolt calipers from knuckle and hang them somewhere, 8 e-18 bolts and shes down, gotta watch the power steering lines and trans lines while you drop it, theres a few spots where they mount to it. but ive had them down in under 30 minutes
 
chicken said:
as much as the markviii and the birds are the same there are many differances (after shoving a dohc into a bird i learned) the nose on the bird is a couple inches shorter, so theres a good chance the front mount is in a different location
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thank you for you clarifing that
 
Here is the E-18 internal torx socket that everyone has been talking about.

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Here are the new buckles I made,the black part is steel and you can see where I also welded over there stock weld. Also welded the eyes closed. I double nutted these also.

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Here you can see where strap is mounted to engine.

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Here is the engine height gauge so I can know if engine droops and then turnbuckle back up to stock spot.

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I want to ask people that have already dropped K , is there alinement dowels on the K that stick into frame to line up fast? Looks like I see them in the front of K. I feel lucky all 8 E-18's came loose no problem. :D
 
I think there is some kind of alignment pin/dowel, but I can't remember 100%.

As for the E18 bolts, I'm pretty sure I used a 6-point 14mm.....
 
Right on the Mark said:
I want to ask people that have already dropped K , is there alinement dowels on the K that stick into frame to line up fast? Looks like I see them in the front of K. I feel lucky all 8 E-18's came loose no problem. :D
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No dowels or pins. Holes.

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i use a 14 mm six point works perfect, i have been taking out them bolts for 12 years and have yet to strip one with a 14 mm impact socket. i also have a whole ton of them that i have saved.
 
And shes out. The cart worked out mint. Mostly when going back in too just get down low to start bolts. The engine support worked slick. Only dropped 1/8 inch, just adjusted right back to stock spot. Engine does not move.
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Take a look at that rust mess of a pan.

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i havent seen a pan like that in a long time! when i lived in mass they all looked like that. looks like it leaks heavy enough to sling on the ac compressor, or you need to replace that too? make damn sure you get the correct teflon washer when you put the power steering hose back in or it will piss all over the place they are a pain in the ass. how do you think it was to pull the k member, some people say its hard, i think its pretty easy, not much holding it to the car!
 
Jamie I still can't believe all the bolts came out. You saw how rusty pan is ,so other stuff not so nice too. It was real easy dropping K. I'm used to Mustangs. I had my SBF on motor plates and I used to drop everything out bottom. Took alittle longer since I pull complete exhaust,drained oil,drained anti freez,but went smooth with help from here.
 
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