danny_holtermann
Dedicated LVC Member
Him and doug are king :q:q:q:q
BBK Mustang long tubes install Bets?
- Thread starter Right on the Mark
- Start date
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
Best I went was 14.1 or 14.2. Mods where 4.10 posi, diablo chip,C&L Maf and K&N and PI 9.5 converter. I will take it to the track with the new exhaust to see change. Like to get in the 13's. Then the bottle going on her.
Trippen Out
Dedicated LVC Member
The joint came in today. I had 7 part #'s but Keystone only had this one in stock. Got Flaming River part# FR1702 which is 3/4-36 spline to 3/4 shaft. Now others doing this will want to get Flaming River part# FR2515DD which is 3/4-36 to 3/4 DD shaft(DD is double D) because the steering colume shaft ID is DD. I will be making round to DD shaft to mate this to car. This one has an OD of 1.625 where as the stock rag joint OD of 3 inches in dia.
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Also forgot I had this. Lucky I had one more O2 bung left from making the other 2. So another bung will be welded in for this.
what is the point of these two items. Ive herd about the flaming river deal before. i thought with that joint you wouldn't really need any fab to fit headers on there. or am i grossly misinformed. I do not have a clue however what the second device is that you have pictured.
Also like to give kudos as well. I am really enjoying this thread. I am sure i will never have the tools or the ability to do this so i will just sit here in envy slowly saving my pennies for that outrageously priced ones that are made to fit our cars
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
I'm glad you like my thread. Kinda fun posting. As for the Flaming River steering joint this is used just to gain more room for the headers. No headers fit MK8 exept the Kooks midlenght ones. If I used the stock rag joint i would have to move the primairies out even further. I will post pics of the FR joint vs the stock joint to show huge size difference.
The next unit is a wide band oxygen sensor reader. This is used to moniter the air fuel ratio so you can know what engine is doing. Then you can make changes to improve performance ,if off one way or another(rich/lean)
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
Here are both joint.
Trippen Out
Dedicated LVC Member
Here are both joint.
thats a huge difference. im surprised we cant fit some shortys on the car with something like that in place
ASMBLYLINE
Well-Known LVC Member
Incredible work bro! I also have a lathe and Bridgeport, the only thing your shop has that mine doesn't is the expert machining talent. I'm gonna talk to my MAC guy tomorrow!
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
Great work man... someday I will have a lathe and mill... someday 
More pics please
More pics please
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
Headers are DONE! Here is why you want some scavange headers to take all different bends from.
Here is the last pipe to move the front one is cut and I bent it out where I want it.
Here are the new tubes layed in and ready for welding.
Mocked up on the engine to check for clearence.
Here is flange on surface plate showing .050 of feller gauges under it. Then shot of straped down to mill to heat and bend str8.
After welding last primary up, look who showed up to help me sand flanges flat. No other then the HOT Uma Thurman. She brought me her Katana Kill Biil sword to do a little sharping on. Oh BTW she wanted some sex,but I told here I was married. She started crying and left. I felt bad!
Whats nice is now stock rag joint fits so I can return the FR joint.
Also while I was in there I did the trans tube O ring here are shots of that for peeps that might want to see where tab mounting bolt is.
Ok here are pass side then drivers side 1-2-3
Here they are on car.
Here is the shot looking down the Drives header before and after.
Wow that was long winded. Glad i'm done. Now just have to find new upper balljoint boots for my control arms. I'll add more pics when K is back up.
Here is the last pipe to move the front one is cut and I bent it out where I want it.
Here are the new tubes layed in and ready for welding.
Mocked up on the engine to check for clearence.
Here is flange on surface plate showing .050 of feller gauges under it. Then shot of straped down to mill to heat and bend str8.
After welding last primary up, look who showed up to help me sand flanges flat. No other then the HOT Uma Thurman. She brought me her Katana Kill Biil sword to do a little sharping on. Oh BTW she wanted some sex,but I told here I was married. She started crying and left. I felt bad!
Whats nice is now stock rag joint fits so I can return the FR joint.
Also while I was in there I did the trans tube O ring here are shots of that for peeps that might want to see where tab mounting bolt is.
Ok here are pass side then drivers side 1-2-3
Here they are on car.
Here is the shot looking down the Drives header before and after.
Wow that was long winded. Glad i'm done. Now just have to find new upper balljoint boots for my control arms. I'll add more pics when K is back up.
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
sweet!!
2002WRXSTi
Dedicated LVC Member
I'll by the headers when ya go to get rid of the car at some point
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
Well aint that slick... now all I want to see is some track numbers.
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
Just little update. I used all the stock manifold bolts and studs. The drivers stock manifold used 8 studs and pass side used 8 bolts. The BBK headers have a thinner flange thickness so I had to cut down all the bolts .250 and to make the studs nice and short I took .500 off those. Now all these have stock engagement into the head ,just didn't want them bottoming out in head. I also cut down the steering shaft bolt so it was flat to the nut welded from Ford on the steering tube.
The BBK headers needed studs put in certain spots to clear primary tubes where a bolt can't be put in str8 because tube was in way.
Here is the slip collet that I made to hold bolts and studs. You need this so you can grab them from the shank. Then pic up being shortened.
I was drilling and tapping the upper TRW control arms for grease fittings when I noticed the Pass rear bushing was shot. I had to rebuild it. Here you can see the bushing pivot and the arm pivot hole.
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Here are all the new Delrin bushings made and new end cap. Here is 1-2-3 of new pivot going in.
Here is arm back on and nice and tight but moves like it should. Saved 100 for a new Moog arm for 2 hours work.
The BBK headers needed studs put in certain spots to clear primary tubes where a bolt can't be put in str8 because tube was in way.
Here is the slip collet that I made to hold bolts and studs. You need this so you can grab them from the shank. Then pic up being shortened.
I was drilling and tapping the upper TRW control arms for grease fittings when I noticed the Pass rear bushing was shot. I had to rebuild it. Here you can see the bushing pivot and the arm pivot hole.
Here are all the new Delrin bushings made and new end cap. Here is 1-2-3 of new pivot going in.
Here is arm back on and nice and tight but moves like it should. Saved 100 for a new Moog arm for 2 hours work.
98lincmk7lsc
Dedicated LVC Member
Did you put a new boot on that ball joint?
ford nut
Local nut case
I hope that isn't a ring on your finger.
Not that I want to marry you.
Just seen too many bad things.
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
I got new aftermarket "tie rod boots" that will take place of the ripped up stock boots. They cover the joint well and are nice and tall so they get compressed into place tight. They where 4.50 each for total of 9 dollars.
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
I hope that isn't a ring on your finger.
Not that I want to marry you.
Just seen too many bad things.
Did you happen to read my post 85? Where Uma wanted some lovin but I had to turn her down?
ford nut
Local nut case
LOL...yes I did.
My pop's almost lost his finger to the wonderful wedding ring, they scare me, for more then one reason
My pop's almost lost his finger to the wonderful wedding ring, they scare me, for more then one reason
DieselDan
Dedicated LVC Member
Almost burnt my finger off once... Was working on a diesel truck with 2 batteries in the engine compartment. I had to pull 1 battery tray out to get to a module underneath it. I was running a bolt in with a long extension and my left hand holdin it while I turned it with my air impact. The positive cable that was pulled out of the way laid over onto my ring and the extension completed the circuit to ground. It burnt the shot outta my ring and my finger... I no longer wear my ring while I work. I have heard of people pulling themselves out from under a car on a creeper and either catch the starter solenoid with their rin or snag it on a bolt, it'll peel the meat off your finger like a sock.
98marklsc
Active LVC Member
you rule dude great work! i love how you rebuilt your a arm bushing....i bought a t bird one for my gen one (spring converted) but that 18mm behind the master cylinder is a you know what. i sprung for the moog on my gen II
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
Over the years I have had the ends of a couple fingers sewn back on but nothing because of the ring. I have arced out the ring couple times on battery stuff but nothing major like Dans booboo ,that must killed.
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
I don't like pointless risk... no rings when I work ever... but that's me.
Very impressive work sir.
Very impressive work sir.