BBK Mustang long tubes install Bets?

[Markviiiedrea]

Damn, I need to learn to weld. looks nice man, keep em comeing!

 

[Right on the Mark]

OK its coming along good. The pass side looks like its a go with couple of mods. To start with the O2's point to the trans pan and are only 1.5 inches away. So no room for O2. I made caps to plug stock o2 bung and made new O2 bungs and welded those in.

Here i'm making the caps. These are flat stock turned into disks to be welded onto old O2 bungs. Here is machining process. First rough cut some 7/8 sq pieces. Then chuck up a 3/4 piece of stock and face. Then pressure pad them with another piece of 3/4 stock.

Here they are tunred round.

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Here is the outer edge deburr by file with a smaller pressure pad to hold.

Cap on header and caps welded on and dressed.

Now on to making O2 bungs. Found nice 1 inch dia stub in leftover bin. Here is drilling center to .625.

Here is boring it to the tap drill size of .650. This is to tap them M18x1.5 thats the thread size of a O2 sensor. And then tapping them.

Here they are being cut off to lenght of .500 with a Iscar carbide cut off tool(these are the nads) Then they are being chamfered inside and out with 45 tool.

Here are the 2 new pretty bungs.

Lathe lesson for the day.

 

[2002WRXSTi]

I like how you made the plugs. I used to do large stainless high pressure hydraulic cylinders that way at a shop I worked at. So I def like how ya did it

 

[ford nut]

Iscar for the win!!!!
Love um

 

[kustomizingkid]

I'm all for fabbing stuff... but even if I had a massive shop with every tool ever I'd buy O2 bungs... hahahahaha.

 

[Right on the Mark]

I'm all for fabbing stuff... but even if I had a massive shop with every tool ever I'd buy O2 bungs... hahahahaha.

This is what I do. Took me 15 mins to make the 2. I would have to pay for them and wait. No wait done.

 

[Right on the Mark]

PASS SIDE IS DONE!! 50% thru. lol Now the hard side.

Here is a little do nothing ear that I trimmed off the tran case. Was hitting back tube.

Here is tiny corner of motor mount that needed trimming,the red spot.

Here is the flange touching the trans pan. Fix that by cutting off flange and reclocking it.

Also I noticed the ID of the flange was only 2.250. I opened this up to the ID dia of 2.5 dia tubing which is 2.375.

Here is flange welded back on clocked nice.

Lines up mint with hump in crossmember.

Here is finished fit(not painted yet)

Nice new pan and cleaned up the engine mount and starter. Looks alot better!!

 

[kustomizingkid]

I'm jealous of your shop... very jealous.

 

[marco]

Can I be your neighbor?

 

[slowmkviii]

Awesome job
How much you going to sell me a set for

 

[StrykerV8]

This is great, keep up the good work!!

 

[98marklsc]

Awesome work ...you give me hope to one day let my Mark exhale properly.

 

[Right on the Mark]

Thanks for all the positive comments guys. I just mocked up the drives tubes and looking good. I just ordered the Flaming river joint for 50 bucks ,its worth it for the smaller dia size. Going out to make some more stuff and install the new remaned rack. I'll post more pics tonight.

 

[Right on the Mark]

Back to the grind. Steering joint is coming in Friday so headers should be done Fri or sat. I want to double check fitment and weld back 2 primaries with new u-joint in before I cut and move front pipe. Got a remaned rack for $84 and a new high pressure PS hose $24. Here is the rack and also the tools I made to insert new teflon Orings onto old rack fittings.

Here is one of the oring strechers right before cut off. The OD on small one is .576 and the bore is .562 9/16 for a wall of .007. The larger one i had made for my LS but I lost that one. Large one is .625 bore 5/8.

Here how these work 1-2-3 for noobs lol

Now I needed to make an EGR nipple like shown here on the stock manifold. I want to keep the stock exh so if I want to put it back on I can.

There is no such thing as (1.0625)1 1/16-13 so I'm guessing its really(1.0629) 27mmx2.0 thread. I have no metric tap and dies that big. Thread gauges showed me the 2.0 metric pitch looks same as american 13 TPI count. So I made it 1 1/16-13 sence my lathe cannot cut metric threads. I had to single point these threads on lathe. Here I am measuring the stock threads using the "3 wire" way. I am not taking the EGR tube off engine so I cannot use it as a fitment guide. Thats why 3 wire way.

Here is how it started life.

Here is measuring new threads. Shot of it done on lathe before hex.

Here it is without hex and with hex machined on.

Here is it done and then installed into the EGR tube. Fit like a glove.

On to drivers header mock pics in next post.

 

[ratdog442]

you are the most brilliant person on LVC...I am amazed on how you can look at everything then figure out away to make it right...you are truly gifted.

 

[Right on the Mark]

Ok now some shots of the drives side header. Here is side shot where I have marked path of steering shaft. Whats nice is that nasty hammered in tube is being cut out. Yhea.

Here you can see all the primaries packed in tight to each other from front of car. You can see shaft hiding back there.

First tube cut out.

Here you can see the stock EGR nipple that I cut out. I made a sleeve to go inside it and support the drill center of a hole saw. Pic cut out.

Since I am going to be heating and bending some tubes I wanted the collecter/primaries to stay together so I welded on this containment strap and welded extra weld on the primaries to the collector.

Here is back tube cut for clearance this shot shows tubes in stock spot before bending.

Here you can see the second tube back is bent out toward frame rail and the last tube is bent in toward engine. The mock tubes are on for fitment.

Daylight yes!

I have to wait for joint so I can weld those 2 tubes up and cut and tweak front tube alittle. They are looking pretty good so far. I'm happy.

 

[chris2523]

very very cool stuff.

 

[2002WRXSTi]

While I like how you have a camera with you for all your steps on you fixes and work arounds. I wish I had thought of that with my 96' when I was fixing some of it's stupid ass one year only problems.

OK My only question would be when you have finished doing the mods to make this header work on the Mark, would you make a map on how to modify a set for others? In other words they had a thread for getting headers built for Marks again but if a set of Stang headers can just be modded to fit off your mods it wouldn't be bad. At least thats how it looks to me and since Mustang headers are so cheap I would think of possibly doing this :shifty:

 

[ford nut]

Great write up....that O ring stretcher is the bomb.

Going to book mark this in case a set of long tubes land in my lap.

 

[Right on the Mark]

While I like how you have a camera with you for all your steps on you fixes and work arounds. I wish I had thought of that with my 96' when I was fixing some of it's stupid ass one year only problems.

OK My only question would be when you have finished doing the mods to make this header work on the Mark, would you make a map on how to modify a set for others? In other words they had a thread for getting headers built for Marks again but if a set of Stang headers can just be modded to fit off your mods it wouldn't be bad. At least thats how it looks to me and since Mustang headers are so cheap I would think of possibly doing this :shifty:

I have been showing all steps and shots of mods done to headers. I figured this was the map to mod these. Thats why I took so many pics and made notes on pics. If someone was to follow this build they would have it easy. I did all the leg work. LOL I like payback and alot of posts on sites have helped me. Ying and Yang.

 

[Right on the Mark]

The joint came in today. I had 7 part #'s but Keystone only had this one in stock. Got Flaming River part# FR1702 which is 3/4-36 spline to 3/4 shaft. Now others doing this will want to get Flaming River part# FR2515DD which is 3/4-36 to 3/4 DD shaft(DD is double D) because the steering colume shaft ID is DD. I will be making round to DD shaft to mate this to car. This one has an OD of 1.625 where as the stock rag joint OD of 3 inches in dia.

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Also forgot I had this. Lucky I had one more O2 bung left from making the other 2. So another bung will be welded in for this.

 

[97MarkJA]

What were the headers originally for? Did they have a part number on them?

 

[Right on the Mark]

My notes say they where from a 2001 Mustang Cobra. I got them from Ebay for $117 to my door. I just checked Ebay and none of the BBK cobra headers look like mine.

 

[Right on the Mark]

Pulled an all nighter last night and got the 2 back tubes done. I changed routing on back pipe pulling it away from block and looping pipe over the steering shaft. Here is shot of both back tubes done and me holding a mock steering shaft in place that it needs to be. This shows how I have to move tube 1 toward engine 1.200 to clear u-joint. Or I might loop tube out toward frame rail like others.

Here is shot from front. You can see there is tons of room for shaft now.

Here is the EGR nipple welded onto back of tube.

Welded up the EGR nipple and all the lower part of tube 4. I left this tube free on spot where it welds right to the header mouth. This is header clamped down tight and str8 welding the mouth to tube so no warping of flange.

I also made K-member tapered alinment dowels so its lines up fast and easy. When the washer touches the K there good.

I was very burnt out this morning so I took on easy job. I made some 16 inch O2 extenders. I went to my mustang harness pile and found no O2 connectors. Then I checked my LS pile and found junkyard engine cut harness with all the O2 connectors male and female. SCORE.

Here are the extenders all made and ready to go.

So I just have one front tube to do and there done. Might take tonight off and finish tomorrow.

 

[kaha]

Holy Fartwrinkle, this man is a fabrication genius.

Fascinating and educational thread, I wish that I had a tenth of your knowledge and talent.