Changed my oil today, guess how it went?

If you want to run synthetic, just switch over. Slowly phasing it in will accomplish nothing but wasting your money.
 
Yeah I just switched to Mobil One over a year ago. I'm certain it was conventional before. No problems at all.
 
Sergmark said:
I guess I'm lucky. (MAybe small hands) I put mine on hand tight and take it off with my hand and just snake it around the lines it almost falls out. :D :D

aint it easy:D i do them at work all day long with out a prob all you have to do is break your arm and dont let it set straight i have a very slight bend in my forearm and mabye that helps too :) 6 qts is the norm for the dohc 4.6 and 5 is for the sohc 4.6 both vary about .5 qt
 
Yeah the oil filter is not that bad. After you do it once or twice you figure out the right way to turn it and whatnot.
 
JC1994 said:
was your filter seized on?? I can get mine off and on and, in and out with no problem. I use a Motorcraft filter.

Must have been. Even with the screw driver, it took half the weight of my body to get it to move at all.

I didn't put that filter on, so I can't say how it was done. Whoever did it must have been a sadist.
 
m_maker said:
What lines are you running ?

I'd like to see pictures of this setup.

-12 an lines. I'll get pics next time I go to my garage. I live in the city and the NYPD frowns on me jacking my car up in the middle of the street. ;)
 
Sergmark said:
I guess I'm lucky. (MAybe small hands) I put mine on hand tight and take it off with my hand and just snake it around the lines it almost falls out. :D :D

But then again Steve you don't even need to put your car up on ramps or stands... You can just walk under...:p

I can hand tighten mine also. It's just getting the angle right, and to know you are going to spill the filter oil. Just place the pan in the right place.

The filter comes out fine once you have the right spot.. LOL:D It's not that big of a chore.
 
I lay aluminum foil on the X-member before I pull the filter. This keeps oil from gunking up between the P/S line and the curve it sits in on the x-member.


I personally have no problem pulling the filter on these cars. But then again, I learned to change the oil on these cars.
 
Ya I have changed the oil plenty of times with a K&N Gold Filter, its easy its only hard when the motors hot
 
Dominus said:
Must have been. Even with the screw driver, it took half the weight of my body to get it to move at all.

I didn't put that filter on, so I can't say how it was done. Whoever did it must have been a sadist.

That sucks. mine was like that the first time I changed the oil in it, when I first bought it. Superman must have put it on. :D
 
Moes8 said:
can some one recommend a remote filter kit for me?

Well, I assembled mine from various ex-NASCAR components, but I've used the Perma Cool kit with great success on other cars.
 
I changed my oil earlier today. The old filter wasn't on too tight but it took me about 10 minutes to finagle it through between the power steering components and the swaybar. I put on a new STP S2 filter which went in much easier since it's about 1/4" shorter than the old one.
 
I use the motorcraft filter and mobile one syn. I was using the k&n filters but i decided to try the motorcraft and to my surprise i had less rattling at start up with the Motorcraft filter. Its not hard at all to change the filter im not sure why all of you are having such a hard time with it, sure its a little bit of a pain but its not bad.
 
It was stuck on the block like it had been welded there by Jesse James himself. Filter wrench wouldn't turn it. No room for the type of filter wrench that goes on the head.

Only one way it was coming out, and that was it.
 
Dominus said:
No room for the type of filter wrench that goes on the head.
thats how i do it use motorcraft filters and the MAC TOOLS cap wrench designed to fit the fl-820, i dunno know the part # but ill check tomorrow it fits with a 3/8 drive ratchet, i use it to break all of the 4.6 filters (sohc, dohc, car or truck) it just makes life easier i dont have time to let the car cool off. i can even get the filter out with the cap wrench still on it:D
 
Why on earth would you want to run 13.5 quarts of oil on a normal streetcar that takes 5.5 quarts? I can't imagine how long in takes for your oil to even reach operating temperature.
 
It's not like I'd be the first street car to have that much oil in the system. It takes about 30-40 seconds longer than stock for the oil to reach temperature, but it doesn't bother me. I'm not THAT much of a leadfoot.

Why do it? Damn clean oil, no starvation, and it stays that way for a long time. I've never had to change my oil because it got too dirty. Always because the damn additives package starts fading away (the factory oil additives. I don't subscribe to external additives) Of course that figure is going to go up again when I install my Ponyfreak oil pan. :D

5.5 quarts? No way in hell. Contrary to an earlier comment, my heads are spotless under the covers, and it took 7 quarts. I never had the chance to measure it with this car, but it seems it was about the same, as the total amount of oil required was similar.
 
Dominus said:
It's not like I'd be the first street car to have that much oil in the system. It takes about 30-40 seconds longer than stock for the oil to reach temperature, but it doesn't bother me. I'm not THAT much of a leadfoot.

Why do it? Damn clean oil, no starvation, and it stays that way for a long time. I've never had to change my oil because it got too dirty. Always because the damn additives package starts fading away (the factory oil additives. I don't subscribe to external additives) Of course that figure is going to go up again when I install my Ponyfreak oil pan. :D

5.5 quarts? No way in hell. Contrary to an earlier comment, my heads are spotless under the covers, and it took 7 quarts. I never had the chance to measure it with this car, but it seems it was about the same, as the total amount of oil required was similar.

Mine 98 is 7 quarts - and is super clean - use BG 44K every oil change, no sludge on the heads what so ever. Mobile one since new. Now if I just fill the crankcase with 6qts then check (without starting) it will show full. It has to run for a few seconds then it shows qt low. ( I know this cause the morons at Jiffy screw did this to me last winter (too cold to do it myself) I had to argue and then start the car to show it really takes 7 quarts.
 
Ford says 6 qts +/- .25 quarts.

I don't know where everyone is getting 7 quarts. Hooray for excessive windage and foaming oil!
 
Dr. Paul said:
Ford says 6 qts +/- .25 quarts.

I don't know where everyone is getting 7 quarts. Hooray for excessive windage and foaming oil!

Seeing as the dipstick measures the oil level, rather than the oil volume, that will not be a problem. Only a rise in the oil level could cause such issues, and the oil level is where it is, regardless of the volume.
 
Dominus said:
Seeing as the dipstick measures the oil level, rather than the oil volume, that will not be a problem. Only a rise in the oil level could cause such issues, and the oil level is where it is, regardless of the volume.

You're right man. Oil pan capacity has nothing to do with it.



Either way, you're nuts for running 13.5 quarts of oil in that thing. My racecar uses 9.5 quarts of oil and I've had to wait ten minutes for it to get up to temperature before.

Driving a car on cold oil = bad
Too much oil = lose hp
Too much oil = foamy oil
Too much oil = excessive windage

Furthermore, all of the benefits you claim to receive from this setup can be had by simply using good oil and changing it at appropriate intervals.

But, I guess if you're happy with it - that's all that matters.


Paul.
 
Dr. Paul said:
Too much oil = lose hp
Too much oil = foamy oil
Too much oil = excessive windage

None of those would be a problem in his car. The only point you can make is that it will take awhile for the oil to heat up.
 

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