cheap bolts :mad:

Red Top was made more for just cold cranking amps, and not for running a bigger system. That's why I bought the yellow top instead of the red top. If you don't have more than 1000 watts worth of extra amplifier, the Red Top would be a good choice for you!

Of course, I'm no expert in which battery is better. 1LoudLS would be a better person to give knowledge. I better let him confirm. But what I've heard is the Red Top excels at the cranking power.

edit: just went to optima's website. here's their description of each:

yellow top:
Your ride didn't come stock with electronic fuel injection, a juice-draining stereo, electronic fuel pump or electronic gauges so a stock battery will struggle to handle the extra load. For these power-soaking conditions there's the YellowTop. It can handle the extra demands put on your battery, you can mount it in any position without leakage on your electronics and you can store it for months at a time and still have juice. It also endures the heat thrown out by high performance engines and with 16X the vibration resistance it can handle the rumble too.

red top:
The RedTop has the cranking power to turn over a big, high compression engine with ease start after start. It can even handle constant engine starting and stopping while you're at the track doing hot laps. It really performs during the critical 5-10 second start zone. It has up to 2X the life of traditional batteries plus 16X the vibration resistance. And it holds a charge during long-term storage. Its stylized shape fits nicely into any rod, muscle car or racecar and you can mount it anywhere, even upside down, it won't leak.
 
pektel, do you have a part number for the yellow top?


Does anyone have one for the red top?


Oops found it on #46.
 
Red Top was made more for just cold cranking amps, and not for running a bigger system. That's why I bought the yellow top instead of the red top. If you don't have more than 1000 watts worth of extra amplifier, the Red Top would be a good choice for you!

Of course, I'm no expert in which battery is better. 1LoudLS would be a better person to give knowledge. I better let him confirm. But what I've heard is the Red Top excels at the cranking power.

I'm most interested in the weight but still want the CCA (I live in New England). I currently run a 650 watt RMS (1300W peak) system. I may change it a little and add a small cap., but the most it would end up being is 750 RMS (1500W peak) and I typically dont run the system with the car off for very long (or loud). I may also do the electric fan conversion somewhere down the line. I confirmed that the red has the same footprint so when the time comes, I think I'll go for that. I think I'll get through this winter with the motorcraft, but its over 6 years old so its demise is approaching. Should I consider a 130 amp alternator as well?
 
My thoughts are with that small of a power draw, you wouldn't need a bigger output alternator. Maybe upgrade the wire from alternator to battery if anything. But for us guys with the battery in the trunk, it becomes a little more work. I myself have never done this mod, but am considering it. Again, it's best to confirm this with an expert. I'm only running 900W continuous, and the audio shop here confirmed that the yellow top would be all I need.

I also never run the system with the car off. For that, you'd need extra batteries.
 
i just remember the reason for that stupid hydraulic fan's existance was a supposed drain on the electrical system but I call BS. IF/ when it dies, I might change it for a 130A like my t-bird had. That was... "ample":shifty:
 
If switching to the electric fan, than a HO alt would be in order. At least, I too have read that it is needed. might as well do it for the peace of mind.
 
I've had great luck with optima's... My first yellow top in my truck lasted 5 years before she quit... put in another one this summer. I run a blue top in my boat, which I leave in the boat over winter wired into an on-board Xantrex battery maintainer.

I've heard very good things about odyssey batteries, and I've also had outstanding experience with sears platinum diehard batteries. Also AGM batteries, they generally rate a bit better than the equiv. Optima and have a similar price. Supposed to have internal construction strong enough to give it the same vibration resistance the optima's get from their spiral cells. They have done pretty damned good as the secondary battery bank in our Light Armored Vehicle at work, used to run our electronics systems for two years now, also just replaced the main starting batteries with the smaller version of the same this summer.

Anyway, these batteries we're discussing ARE NOT GEL batteries as someone stated. They are Lead Acid, Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM). The trunk is certainly NOT VENTED; that little tube the factory battery connects to does not constitute a "vented trunk". Gases follow the path of least resistance, and given the weather striping sealing the trunk... the path of least resistance would be to enter the cabin. So not only are you risking poisoning your passengers (and yourself), but you're allowing a corrosive gas into the interior of your vehicle. If you have no regard for safety/heath or the interior condition of your car... by all means, do whatever you want.
 
Pete, you should have gone to FleetFarm, picked up the 6572!!! it's $72.95 and is the EXACT SAME SIZE! as the Size 101 that's stock with the bitch. I've sold many a 6572 in Blaine so yeah.... I'm picking one of them up in a week or two.

and it's fully sealed, no venting needed
 
red top do have more cold cranking power than yellow tops, the reason you would want a yellow top is because you can deep cycle (running the battery till it dead) it with out dammaging its ability to be recharged (whitch happens alot with a large system if the car is not running) if your not going to do any thing to run the battery DEAD the a red top is a little more powerful (cca)
 
i just remember the reason for that stupid hydraulic fan's existance was a supposed drain on the electrical system but I call BS. IF/ when it dies, I might change it for a 130A like my t-bird had. That was... "ample":shifty:

motorcityreman or motorcityremans .com makes a nice H/O alternator for 1st gen's only for a good price. I think around 170 amps
 
And.... done.
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Thank you for posting this "pektel",
I had to jumpstart my car tonight and I guess that means its about time to replace my battery.
I have a Red Top Optima setting in the garage that I think I'll go ahead and use. I printed off your picture and will be going to the hardware store over the next couple of days to go shopping for parts to make your custom vent tube setup. :D
 

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